*** Official Clevo W110ER / Sager NP6110 Owner's Lounge ***

My roommate was having the same problem on his Alienware m14x.

I believe there is a file called TESV. You want to make sure it allows 4gb of memory usage. Google how to do that, it's quite simple.

 

@varnado and @lastnikita,

Take it easy dudes. I appreciate your concern in trying to advise me and the community best.

Using junction points won't seem to solve the problem, since I still need to move crap back and forth from my SSD to the external HDD if I don't want to drag my HDD around, just to make sure I have enough space on a tiny SSD. However I like the idea that I can use JPs to move games from SSD to HDD without having to reinstall them.

Problem here is this - with a 720 GB one I just don't have to worry about space - period. With an SSD+usb3.0 HDD I have to constantly monitor my space and make decisions - where to put what and when.

The other issue is that if I go with a 128 SSD then my external backup HDD stops being backup, and becomes the primary storage device, so I need a backup for that %).

 

I totally agree having only one primary HDD makes life easier. You may upgrade to a descent SSD later as prices are going down... for now I guess a hybrid drive would be a good option

 

I have a SSD on my laptop, the only thing I worry about is yeah the space. But one thing I don't have to worry about is I can just lift my laptop around anywhere I go, I can carry in my hands or leave it in the car running without worrying if I shock the hard-drive or not.

 

Well I decided to go with an SSD for better or worse. Just changed my order to 128GB Crucial M4 since Mythlogic have live support on Sundays. I'll just have to come up with some way to organize things better between the SSD and external HDD and then upgrade to a larger SSD down the road. After all it doesn't seem right to compromise W110ER's ungodly power with a slow HDD. Thanks for everyones' advice!

EDIT: Also during my secondary research of the interwebs looking for pros and cons of a small SSD I came upon this program for Junction points. This particular one was made to make moving Steam games easier: http://www.traynier.com/software/steammover

 

lol nice I am glad you chose this route Crucial M4 proven to be both fast&reliable (more value for money) as far as I have read about it. I don't have much too backup, all I use is Dropbox which offers 2GB for free and that's more than enough for my use if you have an old 2.5" inch HDD (e.g. from your previous laptops) just buy a USB 3.0 HDD en-closer to save money instead of buying a new External HDD.

Nice discovery http://www.traynier.com/software/steammover this is a perfect example of how Junction points can be useful in your case

EDIT: when you got your lappy, try to Disable Hibernation/Windows virtual memory, this should free up something equal with your ram size + any space that windows Virtual memory has been taken on your SSD

 

@factory_666:
Nice, from what I read the M4 is very nice device.
Still, it would kille me: I have 480Gigs of games on my W110ER.

 

So do i...on a 512gb m4

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 2

 

@varnado Yeah I'm considering taking apart my 8 years-old ASUS 15 inch slob for its hdd. Only it might be tiny - 60 or 80 gigs. Can't remember. NOT touching my Samsung netbook baby though, that one will remain as my backup computer until the end of times.

Found a 3.5" USB 3.0 casing here: Amazon.com: Sabrent 3.5-Inch USB 3.0 SATA HDD Enclosure (EC-35UK): Computers & Accessories so maybe I'l just rip the HDD out of my old Desktop.

@onkelosuppo: 480 gigs worth of games is elite - but I'm not planning to have that many. At least if I do, I'll keep them on an external, since I game mostly at home.

 

Using the Steam pointer app linked earlier is your best bet. I have nearly 1TB of my Steam games backed up, so I just copy/paste the files to my notebook when I want them then let Steam do any recent updates.

 

If that HDD was on your Asus laptop, I guess It should be 2.5", just double check this to make sure you are buying the right HDD en-closer. any with usb 3.0 controller should do the job. Also make sure its SATA compatible, if its an IDE , you might need one of these as well http://www.soarland.com/2.5_Inch_44-Pin_IDE_HDD_to_SATA_Adapter-product-345.html

You Sir, are a HaRdCORE gAmER Respect

 

Thanks, you guys, for the info inre: Memory, modules, CAS latency and the like. If I didn't just spend the rest of my "fun" money on some games (Skyrim for $40, Metro 2033 for $5.42, and Mafia II for $7), an external USB powered DVD burner (Pioneer DVR-XD10...supposed to be pretty sweet) and a 10ft. HDMI cable...well, then I'd buy the RAM...

In time, though.

Thanks again. I'll be doing a nice video review on my YouTube channel "ultranothing" when it comes in, and I'll certainly be back here if (read:when) I have questions or concerns about my new toy.

Edit: A review of the computer, of course Not the other crap...

 

That was the issue, legend

and also nvidia for having your driver cap at 30 fps when the win7 power sttings is in power saveing mode wihtout telling the user or having an option to chnage that.

 

I recently bought a Horize W110er laptop (basically clevo model) and was wondering if there a video's on how to install a SSD properly into it? I have the OCZ 512 GB Vertex 4 one which I got from my friend and I don't know how to install it? I also have a 256 GB samsung 830 series one

 

Wait, does this mean when you set the NB to Powersaver it will automatically cap all games at 30FPS? Which nVidia Driver are you using?

 

I am glad this solved your problem

This is to save battery, stock driver 295.93

I have amended my post with the correct information for CL, lol you've got the right games for this baby. I look forward to see your video review

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zW3g5jjFgug

Here is a video on how to disassemble your w110er, the model name in the video is different (re-branded I guess) but its the same exact system. I hope this helps...

EDIT: The removal/installation of HDD starts here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zW3g5jjFgug&feature=player_detailpage#t=57s

 

Can anyone with an Ivy Bridge i5 chime in about what kind of performance you're getting in BF3 64-player MP? That's probably the most CPU-intensive thing I'll ever do; CPU usage is ~75-80% across 8 threads with turbo force-disabled and GPU usage is 100%. An Ivy Bridge quad is out of reach for me financially right now, and my 2630qm runs way too hot for my tastes (I've seen 94 degrees while playing BF3, and that's with ICD7 applied). I figure I can probably sell it and break even price-wise, and not lose any significant amount of performance, while at the same time picking up some battery life and lower load temps.

 

Hi Syberia,

I don't have BF3 but here is my temp for i5-3360m while playing Red-orchestra 2; CPU/Threads reached 100% several times, Turbo was unlocked with Throttlestop. The temperature never passed 83c and constant monitoring was showing 73-79c during game play. Room temperature was (20-21c). Here is HWiNFO sensor details right after I finished the game... http://i.imgur.com/abWWq.jpg.

 

I wasn't interested in temp; I know with half as many cores that will be fine. I was more interested in FPS/performance.

 

Temperature is fine for me, the chipset thing gets a bit to hot even when idle (the silver heatsink next to the memory is the intel pch/chipset?)
Gets a bit warm, but its a small laptop packed with a quad core cpu, and a 560m like gpu. I'd expect it to get hot.

hell, even the 130w power supply has a cooling fan.

waiting for some battery life improvements.

 

What are the best drivers for the 650m? I'm using the 295.93 from the website. I play BF3

 

i think somone mentioned this earlier, but does anyone know why the wifi has to be enabled manually? i have the intel n-6235 and it's always off at startup.

second, so there's nothing for getting better battery life, still no way to underclock the processor?

 

My wifi is on or off at boot depending how it was at shutdown..
Or maybe always on, can't remember because I don't disable it often.
But it's never off if it was on before, that's for sure =)

 

Absolutely agree! Last week, I accessed a 40MB HDD from a (very) old 286/12 to archive the ANSI artwork from some old BBS's. 1984, I believe the computer was from. That's nearly thirty years. That's almost as old as me. It had a "turbo" button, for christsake! TURBO!

 

mine is always enabled, and automatically turns on when windows boots up.

 

Really annoys me when i keep getting a constant 3:00 or 2:37 battery life, when i hear there is others getting 4:00 and even 5 hours with a core i7..

Pretty lousy for a portable laptop, what is sucking the juice down so fast? I have everything set to its lowest. And that damn northbridge chip seems to get extremely hot, when i am not doing a thing.. So many issues.

 

Is it just me or does the laptop perform at a sub-par level when the battery is disconnected?

Is there a way to fix this?

 

I had the same issue, turned out the Hotkey program turned it off. Enable it with the hotkey, Fn+F11 and see if it stays on when you reboot.

 

It does that on all drivers I have tried. Not only the stock one.

 

4 or 5 hours are with everything at minimum and idling or very light web browsing.

Normal usage you get more around 3 hours. With like 30% brightness and some multimedia usage.

 

Very sweet. That's a way smarter method to save power and heat than reducing clocks. So I dont even need to mess around with other tools anymore to set frame limits. Thanks to you and varnado for figuring that out.

 

How do we check to see if Nvidia optimus is working properly and the 650m is working?

 

I get 3.5 to 4 hours on average, and that's with light use, one or two web pages with some browsing (like at NBR). With any amount of power use it's closer to 3 hours. Not great, not sure why it isn't better tbh. Running at 1200MHz and on HD 4000 there's no reason it should consume more than 12-13W, which with 62WHr battery should equate to 4.5-5 hours.

 

You never run on HD4000 only, since the nVidia never gets disabled by optimus.
And this isn't happening on other machines, so it may be Clevo's responsability to fix (or not, can't be sure).

You may even have better battery life by running on the nVidia at minimal clocks, if the intel one is deactivated properly.. which I don't know.

Coming from an acer timelinex, 13" and 14" versions consume around 7 watts at iddle. I find 12-13W to be really high, when power consumption was supposed to be lowered, and it's got a smaller screen size !

 

Well, this is a rather unconventional method, but it works: Open prime95 and an ap to monitor CPU speed, like thi Intel Turbo Boost Monitor. Now start prime95. If the 650M is parked, you will have full turbo clock, when it gets activated the CPU spee decreases.
The easiest way however is to open CPUID HWMonitor. When the 650M is listed its active, when its not listed its not.

 

Oh, so I'm wrong and the 650M gets disabled ?
How come is the quote below possible then ?

 

As prema said before it doesn't really disable Bios wise, but it goes in some sort of a sleep mode. Let's hope a final driver will cure it.

 

just becomes invisible but stays active then... I didn't read prema's answer on that subject, could you point it out to me please ?

 

It does shut it off or idle at nearly zero power in a "sleep" state. You can't deactivate the HD 4000 because the nVidia routes through the HD 4000 to the display.

12-13W seems reasonable.

 

I want to install a backlit keyboard for my machine.

Has anyone done this? How hard will it be?

 

What about the quote I posted above ? I can't check myself, as my battery is defective and I don't have any tool to measure power consumption

But its cores won't stay full-on, that's what I meant of course.

Not compared to some other laptops, so I wonder what makes you think that ??
12-13W is ok for an old-gen laptop with bigger screen at maximum brightness..
So, it may sound reasonable, but it's not efficient at all, since it could drain almost half that power if correctly optimized, thus giving almost twice its current autonomy on light tasks !

 

I used a different approach, "fluorescent keyboard stickers" and its quiet good. Check the link in my signature for more info.

 

Yep, found it.

 

I've actually found this USB 3.0 adapter to use instead of an enclosure: NewerTech U3NVSPATA Universal Drive Adapter USB 3.0... in stock at OWC

You can connect any of your hard drives to it and it costs a measly sum of $30. So I'll just butcher my desktop HDD, my old Asus 2.5 and I'm wondering if I can take apart my Western Digital 200Gb USB 2.0 HDD to use with it.

 

I get about 3 hours no matter what i do, even if my laptop is just sitting there for an hour doing nothing, it will stick to 3:00 then drop to 2:48 then back to 2:59 and then to 1:40.

I dont need the HD 4000 to run at 1200mhz on battery, im fine with it running at 350mhz, If i need any extra power, I'll use the dGPU, not the iGPU regardless of which consumes what amount of wattage when in use.

 

Research it well. You don't wan to end up buying something like this: (which may fry both your PC and your data)

Newegg.com - BYTECC BT-350 Super Speed USB 3.0 to SATA/IDE Adaptor w/ OTB(One Touch Backup)

 

Haha, of course it fried people's computers - just look at it! It's like an item from some 90's spy game that you use to hack into enemy robots... Thanks for letting us know that this is crap.

 

The CPU idles at 1200MHz. The dGPU throttles up/down according to load so it isn't consuming any more power than it has to.

 

I believe you can't connect more than one disk at a time, plus you can find the same gadgets for a lot cheaper, like 5 to 10 bucks max !
And yes, you can take appart an external drive to use with it, but since that drive is already external, I don't really see the point