*** Official Clevo W110ER / Sager NP6110 Owner's Lounge ***

Not all external drives carry a SATA connection. They have special connectors in many cases.

 

You mean the drive inside have special connection ?
Do you have an example that I could check ?
Never saw that, all the ones I've seen use a standard hard drive...

 

Yes. In many cases it does. Here's just one example: Mod a WD passport Essential to Sata Internal - [H]ard|Forum

http://forum.hddguru.com/wd5000bmvv-connector-t16203.html#p122072

 

Wow, that is tough. I bought a WD Essential 3,5" and it was a regular SATA WD Green in there. Never I would have thought, that the manufacturer builds a specific connector. That's as clever as it is mean.

 

To switch from USB 2.0 to 3.0 and increase speed. But it's probably 5400 RPM so I recon it wouldn't change much.

@HTWingNut - that info sounds reassuring )) I'll just leave my WD external thingy alone then.

 

Received my W110ER yesterday! It is a beast and absolutely loving it! Thanks to Logical Blue One for the ultra quick shipping as well!

 

does anyone else have the issue where the touchpad soemtimes doesn't work? I don't think my hand is brushing it at all, but sometimes the touchpad will just stop responding to my input. or what will happen is that it'll only move vertically. it's really weird and i was hoping someone knew something about that

 

I more or less have the opposite problem. The TouchPad gets too much input. The cursor always jumps around when I am typing. That's odd, because I set Palm Detection to maximum.
What did you set Palm Detection to?
@Jazza_C: Congratulations. It really is a very nice machine.

 

HELP!!!! i dropped my bag containing my sager n6110 from 4 ft above the ground. it hit a hard surface and now screen is broken. see pictures
I was able to connect to another display and so far everything else looks ok, especially the hard drive.
What can i do at this point? is it possible to replace it on my own? I bought it from xoticpc 2 months ago and only had possession of my laptop for about 3 wks. this sucks big time. Can xotic pc do anything about it? or sager? I expect I would have to pay if they repair screens.

 

Ouch


Currently:Macbook unibody 13.3 late 2008.
Getting a 9130 or a 6110.

 

I'd try reinstalling the drivers for it and see if that helps, or resetting the sensitivity to defaults. I've never liked touchpads at the best of times - occasionally my NP6110 will register a mouseclick when I wasn't even aware of touching it. I turn it off most of the time now and use a cordless mouse. I can recommend this MS mini mouse [link] with blue track tech - you can use it on almost any surface (within reason), and despite being called a mini mouse, it's pretty standard sized (although not as big as something like a Logitech MX518 gaming mouse).

 

You can buy glossy replacement screens for the NP6110 online via Amazon - I believe the exact model is B116XW03 V.1 [link] - they have them in stock right now, but only in glossy (I've been trying to hunt down a matte one, but nobody seems to have them).

I purchased my NP6110 through XoticPC also, and asked about replacing the screen myself (mine is not damaged, I just don't like the glossy screen at all, and would much prefer matte). They advised me it would not void warranty as long as I didn't damage anything in the process, but you should confirm this with them yourself for your own protection. I am sure they would do the replacement for you if you wish - although I imagine it would cost you a bit with shipping etc.

HTWingNut posted a brief summary of his screen replacement [link] if you want to consider doing it yourself.

Sorry you suffered that damage though - must be a real downer on such a new machine.

 

Hi! This is my first post on this forum, but I want to say thanks to everyone posting in this thread. I've been reading this thread a lot, and people have been posting some good info!

I'm gonna order one of these in the next few days, either from Eurocom or Reflex Notebook (both Canadian companies with free shipping to Canada.) I've been emailing with both, and they've both been really helpful. Eurocom offers a much more significant student discount, otherwise the prices at Reflex seem to be a bit better, although Eurocom already offered to give me a free upgrade to the Intel wireless adapter (not something I'm really interested in, but nice none-the-less!)

If I decide to order from Eurocom, I can get the matte screen installed, which is nice. However, it comes with only one stick of 4 gig ram. RAM is something I haven't dealt with too much, but I know I want to upgrade this on my own. It's listed as "4GB; 1x 4GB; DDR3-1600; PC3-12800; CL11; 204-pin; 1 SODIMM". My question is, in general, what is compatibility like between different sticks of RAM? For example, could I buy any 8 gig stick of DDR3-1600 ram and put it in there to give me 12 gigs total?

Besides that, the upgrades I'm considering are the 3610qm, the matte screen, and the Seagate Momentus XT 750. Like I said, Reflex and Eurocom have pretty comparable prices, but the matte option and student discount are making me lean toward Eurocom.

By the way, can anyone link to a review of the matte screen? I know HTwingnut has one, but I can't seem to find it in his review thread. Thanks!

 

They're on ebay at least, as almost any screen !

Do you guys get your RAM modules very (very) hot on prolonged usage ?
I never thought it would heat that much, almost burning to the hand !

 

i fixed my problem, for the most part i just reset it to defaults. i'm in HK and it's really humid, so I also turned up.. palm detection? by a tick or two, the one about humidity, i'll put it back when I'm back in LA where I live haha defaults works fine believe it or not, i'm glad lol

EDIT: also, another question, is that you know when you hit the hotkey, a little thing pops up in the top left, like if you turn on and off the wifi, or turn up the sound?

well even now when I hit the buttons, the thing happens but no popup comes up, anyone know why?

also, i can't install the new hotkey 6.045 or w/e my computer keeps saying it can't read the 6.040.msi file or something along those lines. anyone know anything?

 

I am not sure I understand the first question, but if there is no popup that is, usually, because the hotkey s/w is not properly installed; so uninstall and reinstall

as to the second matter, often enough the s/w on both sager and clevo sites is bad; try to re-download from their Asia ftp's

 

Hey guys, I tried searching this thread for virtualization, but nothing popped up. I'm not sure if it is Windows 8 preview, Virtualbox or this Clevo/Sager laptop, but I'm finding that the preview build for Windows 8 on Virtualbox with my NP6110 is very laggy, slow and often has crashes and video glitches. Does the 3610Q support virtualization? I followed the instructions I found online in setting up Windows 8 on Virtualbox, but my experience with Windows 8 really sucks.

 

3610qm supports Intel VT-x , even without that you should have no issue. In VBox settings, try to increase allocated vram&ram and see if it makes any difference. Also enable Direct2d acceleration if it is not enabled.

 

Windows 8.. bah, wouldn't touch that fugly thing with a 10 foot barge pole, at least not on a desktop or laptop environment. Metro may be ok for tablets / smartphones, but wow, a big step backwards with the GUI for desktops. Did I mention how fugly it is? It really is fugly.

One saving grace is the multi-display capabilities in W8.. which would've been better included in a SP release for W7, imho. Other than that, W8 barks like a dog. Woof.

W8 fanboys, please don't even bother arguing the merits of W8 with me, I've been there already - your efforts will be futile.

 

i dont have any problems with it, i just never install the synaptics driver for the touchpad, since i cannot deal with the driver shutting the touchpad off while i am typing, it is not a good thing for light mobile gaming that requires keyboard and mouse input constantly.

I'm fine with the default ms driver as i have always used for every laptop ive gotten.

Other than that, your issue doesn't sound normal. My touchpad is just very sensitive.

 

I would be hurt if that happened to my w110er which i have only had for 2 weeks, I have no cash to repair it and it is my main machine (yeah 11.6 inches and i use it daily no problem)

 

you shouldnt need to use drivers for the touchpad, it works fine without them. Unless you just hate using the arrow keys to scroll on a website, go ahead and install those ty drivers (i dont like synaptic drivers)

I would recommend a logitech mouse with the tiny unifying reciever (about 5mm extends out of the usb port when plugged in vs 1.5 inches w/microsoft) it is small and works well with the small form factor of the laptop, just if your laptop is in sleep mode (in your bag) and you left the mouse on and bumped it around, the laptop will turn on.

Long wireless usb sticks are a bother, i like logitech's idea.

 

Wasn't there a tool recommendation for a smooth two finger scroll in this thread? Does anyone remember the name or has the link?

 

You can go into Control Panel, under Device Manager > Mice and Pointing Devices, and change the power settings on your mouse so it does not wake the computer. I had to do that on my desktop because my cat has a habit of climbing around on my desk and bumping the keyboard/mouse and turning it on in the middle of the night.

Small USB adapters are great. I couldn't get my Lenovo wireless card to work in my W110ER, and didn't feel like buying a new one, so I just used a low-profile USB wireless adapter. I leave it permanently plugged in, and it only sticks out a few mm, so it doesn't interfere with use or storage of the laptop.

Sent from my Tricorder using Tapatalk

 

Guys. Looks like my laptop is dead. Bottom line what I think caused it? I was just pulling a wire from my fan mod to route it using a pair of pliers. I hadn't intended on using pliers to begin with but just grabbed them and touched the motherboard. It was unplugged but then I realized the battery was still in. Now it doesn't show any signs of power at all. No power light, no startup, nothing. I've removed the battery and just plugged in the AC but doesn't get power. I've put in just the battery without AC and no power. I unplugged the CMOS just for giggles to see if that would correct anything, and nothing, period.

I normally just remove all power any time I do something in there, but I was just looking at something, thought I'd tidy up my wiring, and now nothing. I didn't think with the system off though that any power would be streaming through the system even with battery in place. But perhaps it is.

I may have to replace the mobo, but before I go that route, any other ideas, thoughts?

Thanks.

 

@HTWingNut Damn, that's rough! Sorry to hear that. No suggestions from me I'm afraid, except trying to see if your warranty applies to that. Technically how did touching your MoBo with pliers could have killed it- static electricity caused a short circuit?

 

Something like that. If there was power trickling through and shorted between two circuits and even fry one resistor, diode, or any one of those tiny solid state components it's dead. static electricity even could have done it.

 

Sry to hear that Did you try "Power drain" your lappy ? I had the same problem with another lappy and power drain fixed it. I mean just remove the battery / unplug from AC and keep the power button for 30-60 secs...

 

One last idea to fix it.

Try pulling out the HDD and turning on the machine, try removing the RAM and turning it on.

But yeah, if the mobo is dead, nothing works...

 

Yep, tried power drain and removing different components and still nothing.

I'm disassembling it and cleaning everything up and seeing if I can't do something with it. So frustrating.

 

Is there a Zero resistor somewhere, that you could override/jumper?

 

I don't have my W11 at hand, could someone please check for HT if it turns on without a battery connected?
If it doesn't work without battery HT maybe lucky and just have fried the batteries smart chip.
If it usually works without battery and nothing else helps ring up Myth and let them check the board.

 

Yes, good points Prema (as usual).

If someone could shut down, unplug, take their battery out, plug in and see if the machine will power up?

Good idea about calling Mythlogic. But I'm not sure much what they could do. I guess I could have them quote a board too at least it would be local and possibly quicker then getting one from Sager.

It was right in the area of the yellow circle... not sure what all that business on the board does there.

 

oh no.. your laptop is DEAD?!

 

Did you hear any poping sound, smell anything or see any spark?

You may have just shorted a power rail and poped a fuse. I would check those first, or try a local "electronics" repair shop. It should be an easy check-up and fix.

You could also have burnt a trace on the motherboard, which you should be able to see if you can inspect the entire motherboard. (unless it's in a barried layer which would be hard to find and fix).

 

It's not clear, but it almost looks like the insulation on the fan wires (by the fan hub) were pinched on the heatsink. Is that possible? Are some of the wires exposed? If so, they could have shorted at that point on the heatsink.

I assume to tried again after remove the fan mod and wires?

 

I desoldered the fan mod, still no luck. It was working perfectly fine beforehand. Only thing I did was open the bottom lid to look at something, the wire pulled out from under the bar there on the right, I used pliers to drag it back because my fingers couldn't grab it and it kept bunching up when I tried to close the bottom lid, locked the lid back in place, flipped it over and it wouldn't boot at all. Nothing. That was it. 30 seconds from working to dead. The only thing I could attribute to it was the pliers...

 

But in the picture, it looks like the insulation on the black wire is broken and the wire is exposed right by the hub of the fan. And it looked it may have been nicked by one of the little copper hedgehog heatsinks when you closed the lid. If so, you may have shorted at that point. Although, assuming the heatsink and black wire should both be ground, there should be no reason for a short circuit at that point... but maybe they are on seprate ground planes or something? Or maybe another wire was nicked.

If it was a short somehow, it's likely there's a fuse poped somewhere.

 

That image was from when I first did my mod, and has been working for over a month like that, and has no nicks in the insulation, just a bad image I guess. Not sure that there are any fuses in the system. Only fuse would likely be a melted circuit somewhere.

And that's the thing. I did not see any spark, smell anything, nothing. I inspected it fully, I even have the motherboard removed and it looks intact completely.

 

There "should" be fuses (then again, I would't be surprised if there are none...). If you look closely, you might be lucky to see a part that has 1A, 2A, 10A etc... written on it. It can look like this:
surface mount fuses - Bing Images

If you have a meter you could test for continuity across these parts (see if you measure ~0 Ohm).

I must admit, before going through that trouble it would help if you had some clue that you indeed shorted something. Chasing ghosts, is the worse thing...

 

it does boot up without a battery in, i do it all the time because i wanna preserve the battery and not leave it plugged in.

 

Thanks for the confirmation. Although just to allay any fears, you can leave it plugged in, it won't hurt the battery. Removing and storing will possibly add another month or two of life to the battery, nothing substantial.

Thanks for the input from others too. Although even if it were a surface mount fuse that would mean knowing which one it is and the even harder part, replacing it. I've already requested a quote for a mobo replacement part. We'll see how it goes.

 

Oh no HTwingnut!

sorry to hear about that - your review was a key part in myself getting one of these machines! And now I also want a P150EM haha!

 

@HTWingNut Hopefully your baby (firefly) gets fixed in a short while. Thanks for all your mods & info

@Everyone

Here is another Gameplay video from RAGE (steam version), it works flawless @60FPS consistently. Clevo w110er - RAGE Gameplay - High settings - YouTube

 

And again: Use a multimeter and measure where your curcuit ends. In most cases the manufacturers use zero resistors as fuses. If one is broken you can see it bare eye. You can then jumper it or replace it if you are good at solder.

 

+1

@ht,

 

Dude, I have a hard enough time soldering two 22 gage / AWG diameter wires together, you think I'm going to be able to fix that? In any case there is no indication of anything broken, burned, melted, or otherwise. I have the motherboard fully disassembled and gave it a thorough look over. I will one more time, and time permitting, may pass it by Mythlogic and see if they can do anything. I'd rather pay them $100 if they can fix it, than $300 for a new mobo (estimation, waiting on quote) or $425 for a new chassis (RJ Tech w/o battery).

 

Hi everyone,

I got this wonderful laptop yesterday and it's a very nice computer for sure.

I still have one issue. Does someone know why my fps are weak when i play on battery whereas they are perfect on sector.
I would like to be able to play on battery as well as on sector.

Do u have any idea ??

 

HT could you please take full resolution shots of both sides of the mobo for a project of mine if your time permits...

 

@HTWingNut:
It was the first thing I thought of, as a friend of mine got his fried hard drive back to work that way. Didn't look good but it worked.