*** Official Clevo W110ER / Sager NP6110 Owner's Lounge ***

Ok thanks , before , i try to O/C ram. How di you do to modify the bios of the gt650m ? The vcore can be elevated ?

 

The 650m BIOS is embedded in the system BIOS so you need a BIOS that has the 650m vBIOS voltage bumped. I got mine from Prema, so perhaps PM him.

 

Wait, people are getting 1300MHz on the core!? This GPU is around 830MHz stock, right? If so, that's awesome. Seriously, HURRY UP AND ARRIVE.

 

Well, I could get 1300MHz with my original W110ER using an overvolt mod, but since I fried my board (not related to the overvolt, at least I don't think so), my new one will barely reach 1200. But the tradeoff is a hotter running GPU. 1300 is also the boost speed.

 

Quite well see here:

http://forum.notebookreview.com/sag...clevo-w110er-first-look-review.html#noiseheat

My temps are now 5-8C less at load just by propping up the back end of the laptop and running Prema's undervolt BIOS mod.

 

This was with a 3612QM:

NVIDIA GeForce GT 650M video card benchmark result - Intel Core i7-3612QM Processor,CLEVO CO. W110ER score: P3253 3DMarks

 

So I've had my laptop for about a week and loving it. The charger is massive though =/ that's a given though since I got the i-7 processor. I noticed earlier in the thread people were buying the COOLERMASTER 120W UNIVERSAL LAPTOP CHARGER, what's the reason behind it? Is it smaller?

Are there any smaller laptop chargers that are still 120W and fits the w110er?

 

hello

Prema is it your score ? what's the frequenc on your GT650m ? Vbios ? Is it possible to 3840QM to force 3,6 ghz on 4 cores ?

Do you have any 1.4 bios witch allow to overvolting the gpu core ?

Thanks

 

If your hardware ID is the same as mine and the latest Nvidia WHQL do not install then something else is wrong.

Some of us use the 'Thermaltake Toughpower Slim 95W Notebook Adapter'. It goes up to 120W and is a lot slimmer and lighter than the default as well as slightly shorter.

Link

 

I'd like to know this as well. Also, I checked Amazon for the above referenced Coolermaster. I found a different one, but it didn't have the USB ports on it like the above. That would be darn handy.

 

There is a Kensington AC adapter users have found, but now it seems to no longer be available.

 

I have the Coolermaster USNA 95W and it holds its own perfectly well even with a Sandy i7QM in prime+furmark, so don't get fixated on the 120W model. The 95W is petite, cool even under duress (with the W110ER at least), and has the USB port.

 

You only need a 90W, that's the most the system will be able to draw despite the size of the PSU. Prema and I verified that when we were fooling around with making the BIOS mod. You will stress a 90W more because it will be closer to its peak power output, but most games run < 75W which is really ~ 65-70W taking into account PSU efficiency.

 

The 'Thermaltake Toughpower' I posted previously has the USB port and can be found on the Amazon.com site although it is more expensive.

 

That looks great, but don't the i7 Ivy Bridge models need the 125w?? Why do they ship with the 125w if one only needs 90w?

 

Sorry for the double post.

The NP6110 does not use mSATA, correct? (I am not totally educated in all this.) Basically, there will never be room for more than one storage drive in an NP6110, correct? Just making sure. I really want the benefit of an SSD, but I'm wary of the crampedness. I will just need to learn to not have so many games installed all at once. (Can't play them all at the same time anyway!)

 

Hello everyone. I have one of the NP6110 sager laptops. I have questions for anyone that can help me out. The i7 that sager offers with this thing I would like to put in my laptop. I bought this laptop from sager with the i5 3rd gen cpu. Ive had it for a little more than 3 months and im doing alot more video editing and photoshop and could really benefit from the new upgrade.

My question is Are the cpus interchangeable? I know I need to def upgrade the power adapter to 120w which Ive seen people using the cooler master. Other than that is this something I can send back to sager and have them do it, its Sunday so I cant call them and ask. Has anyone sent back their laptop and have them switch out the cpus and how much did it cost? If they dont do that I see on ebay I can get the i73630m for 250.00 and then I can resell this i5 and get some of my money back.

Thank you all for your time,.

 

Someone will have to correct me if I'm wrong, but to my knowledge, they're totally interchangeable. Like you said, it just needs the 120w supply instead of the 90w, but the above seemed to also indicate the 90w was fine? Maybe I misread. When you buy them, the i7 models come with the 120w.

You can swap the CPU out yourself, if you want to. It's really easy to get into the NP6110. You'd just need to replace the thermal paste when you switched processors. (Maybe you know all this already.) I do think that swapping processors might void the warranty.

I don't think the i73630m is quad-core, though, so if you want quad, get one of the processors with "QM" in their name. Maybe you already know this too, though.

 

Yea sorry, meant the 3630QM

 

What are the temps looking like when idling and gaming with that cpu? I have a laptop cooler made by coolermaster and idle the i5 is around 39c-42c gaming is around 65c-72c

 

Hello,I'd like to know if there's a way to disable intel HD graphics or optimus; I think I read somewhere in this thread that 650m's connected through Intel HD and it's impossible to turn it off even through modding BIOS,am I correct?
Also,I'd like to know if Duracell's ultra compact 90W adapter would work with W110? Universal Compact Laptop Adapter | 90 Watt Universal AC Duracell

And finally,I have ordered mine with a hybrid drive(8 gb ssd\750 gb HDD),I didn't quite get if ReadyBoost would work automatically or I should set it up somehow?

Thanks in advance,and sorry if it's been discussed,this thread's quite huge to read entirely,maybe some FAQ would be great...

 

HTWingNut and Prema claim that irrespective of CPU the W110ER works perfectly fine with a 90W brick. My own experience with an i7-2630QM (Sandy, which supposedly consumes more than the Ivy equivalent) shows that 95W is sufficient for the most demanding tasks (prime+furmark). So any high quality 90W adapter should do the trick.

 

The Thermaltake can go up to 120W if required.

 

Does anyone know how to have the Equalizer + Creative THX in this laptop?

Also does anyone know if there's a better creative THX software which bring more functions to install in this laptop??

The quality of this laptop's speakers are totally bloody HORRIBLE. The output isn't much bad, and actually has one of the lowest distortion I have ever heard with my Senheiser CX300 precision II (I can hear static noise in almost every god damn audio equipment with those in hear phones, most are just totally horrible, but this laptop makes almost no noise at all). Probably the metallic outputs also help better to reduce static noise, while most laptops and desktops onboard soundcard, bring plastic protections instead... (I really like this detail).

It makes even less static noise than the Creative X-fi Go Pro, however the X-fi go pro has better sound quality and the options in it work well and have lot more things.

Activating THX with the laptop speakers improve a lot sound, but when using the output, it looses all the quality and all the BASS, and increasing bass in the THX, makes the sound with killed bass (braaa braaa instead of the roar of the sub BRRRrrrrrr BRRRrrrrr). However deactivating THX makes a very normal sound with normal bass output just like any other onboard soundcard quality, so it's not bad.

But I wonder why Creative have made such a crap THX version in those soundcards, they don't work half as good as even their X-fi Go pro USB... The crystalizer makes almost no difference, it doesn't bring equalizer, effects, voice effects.........

In the little X-Fi go pro, for example the crystalizer makes a ton of difference in the sound, it has a propper equalizer, using the Speaker option to increase BASS, actually increase bass without killing it, everything just simply works well with the little USB card.

Mostly yes, but on the reviews, 4 example with the I73610QM, they reported that the laptop in a burning test 4 example can easily reach 100W and go further than that.

Also if you want to totally unlock the Intel boost, with the nvidia on, it's better to have the full 120W.

And then if you use Prema's Bios and OC the laptop, remember than an GPU with OC can easily reach almost double it's consuming power, at least on the Desktop, you can make the 500W PC to eat like 800W and more under OC on everything (GPU\CPU\RAM and therefore BOARD also will consume more).
Keep Cool

 

With à 3840qm it run fine With the 90w power supply of clevo... But the vid isn't very stable on full load. 95w watts power supply may solve the problem. Have to be checked on a sandy qm.

 

120W PSU IS *NOT* REQUIRED! A quality 90W is more than adequate. The system is hard limited to 90W, so it cannot draw more than 90W. The only reason you'd need/want a 120W is if you pegged the PSU near 90W all the time and would stress the PSU since it's not good to run a PSU near 100% rated capacity for any extended period. However, even the most intense games average 70-75W *from the wall* and with 90% efficiency factor of the PSU it is actually only providing ~ 65W. Rule of thumb for PSU's is they should run less than 80% of rated power most of the time. So for a 90W that means 72W, or less than 80W from the wall. It's OK if you peak more than that time and again, but if you peg it at 80-90W (i.e. > 90W from the wall) for hours at a time your PSU will fatigue and fail, perhaps temporarily or permanently.

 

Hello,
I'm 6 days in to my laptop now and I have a small problem but I'm scared it may potentially be a big one. When I'm playing Diablo 3 there are times that I get white artifacts. It happens really quickly (half a second flash) and it's a just a quick flash and it goes away. It happens when I'm running through big fields and sometimes during fight scenes. In a one hour session it happens maybe twice. The artifacts are located on the top right and top left of the screen and they are white lines that are about 3 inches long from the edge going inward. It's just a flash and it goes away. Could this be a sign that my GPU is dying?

Running:
-Prema Bios 1.4UV
-Latest ME
-Latest ME driver

Everything else is stock

~~~I bought the thermaltake power supply 95W slim I'll tell you guys how it goes~~~

Also if anyone knows where to buy the Coolermaster 120 I want to try that one out too.

 

Did you updated all your drivers? Update all the drivers.

I don't have a clue about that game, but in every PC I had, there was always little flashes rarely in some games, and black textures (like corruption), but for me it was never a sign of death of the hardware, since brand new it always made that crap on some games.

But update all your drivers, specially Nvidia and intel to the lates ones, and it will probably disappear. If not do a burning test and search for artifacts (if artifacts dots or black textures appear in those tests under stock clocks, go RMA with the laptop TODAY).

I have Liteon 120W power brick. It's a huge and heavy son of a... BUT it is very high efficiency, playing or even doing a burn test, the brick is either cold or just a few degrees hotter than the room temp, which is very nice, though the laptop burns
Keep Cool

 

See, I need to prove it to myself that it can only pull 90 watts.. I was so frustrated why my W110ER was only scoring around 2600 3D Mark 11 points when people with slower CPUs were getting 3000!! even in Borderlands 2 I was lagging like crazy.. Then I blew the dust off my 120 watt adapter and it's like I have a whole new computer. I will never use a 90 watt again..

EDIT: I need to fix my system specs. I actually have a 3630QM now

 

That sounds like a plan. I'm going to return everything to stock and do a burning test. What's a good burning test? And what's a burning test?

 

So, how much do you score now ?

My laptop shutdown the other day, running sleeping dogs.
Temps were not crazy, so I wonder if it could be the PSU..
But I don't think I can stress it that much, so don't really know :-/

 

Were you using the Sager or Clevo provided PSU or something else?

 

You should bare in mind that not all of these laptops will be able to handle the Undvervolt of the GPU 100%. To rule this out I would test out that game for the same or longer period of time without having the Prema UV Bios installed at the time. You could just use Prema's standard 1.4 Bios.

 

Can I get this confirmed, will I be able to OC my 3632QM at all? To around 2.4GHz? I'm peeved I didn't get the 3630QM because it makes little to no difference to battery power using a 35w CPU.

That's only a 200MHz overclock, but I wanted to know if I can do so at all, via any method, stably.

 

The 90W limit was actually regarding the Amp charge rate of the battery, not the power draw...but yes I got the 120W Thermaltake and never boke 75W+ with 3612QM even with overvolted GT650M...

HAPPY BENCHING!

 

I am using a Kensington 90 watt.I also tried a couple other 90watt ones, same issue. In fact, one 90watt caused my laptop to just suddenly power off but I guess I can see why seeing as it was a 50 dollar special lol. Now I only use the 120 when gaming or charging my battery..

I feel like once the draw becomes to high for the adapter and the voltage starts to dip, the laptop will just hard cut power off. As for the lagging, if I am using a 90 watt adapter my CPU seems to be limited to 25 watts when dGPU is being used (only at full load) Borderlands and BF3 see HUGE losses with a 90 watt since they are very CPU bound. idk what to think, everyone here is saying 90 watt is fine but now I don't think so. Could someone else run some tests? Maybe I will make a video showing these issues.

 

UPDATE: I ran FurMark on 1080p and no artifacts and I see them on my laptop screen RARELY and on my external monitor never so it can't be the GPU. I guess I was "breaking in the gpu"? I have no idea. It only happens on the laptop LCD and only when I have AA on and VSYNC on.

After I ran FurMark though I found a stuck pixel. It's not dead because it's permanently red on every screen color. I'm going to run UDpixel overnight. I don't know what else. I don't want to RMA for one pixel. I don't know if the process is troublesome or not. I bought with xoticpc

 

If it's just one game, could as well be a software problem, don't worry.
I've had some myself with NFS the run, and no others.

 

So now if you revert to the various 90W adapters you can replicate the old problem / low scores? I am asking because with a 95W teensy-weensy Coolermaster brick (and with the original 90W brick as well) I can run an Ivy i5 and a Sandy i7-qm with prime + furmark and no throttling whatsoever.

 

NVIDIA GeForce GT 650M video card benchmark result - Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-3840QM CPU @ 2.80GHz,CLEVO CO. W110ER score: P3132 3DMarks

Thanks to prema 350 mhz more on core and 230 mhz more on memory.

 

Yes, that is correct. I think I will make a video showing it. Then people can see if maybe I am just going crazy or doing something wrong

 

check your cpu/gpu temps & frequencies (ideally voltages too) at the same time !

 

I need some help, I'm trying to choose a slim power brick for my W110ER but i'm not sure which one is the best, also trying to find a good solar charger to use it when i camp outside.

http://forum.notebookreview.com/sager-clevo/695482-best-slim-power-brick-clevo-w110er.html

Thanks!

 

They are always under 85c at ALL times. no Overclock when this happens either. I am also running Prema's 1.4 UV Bios as well.

 

I have the clevo PS 90W , with a 3840QM. During stress test , even gaming , my VID isn't very stable , cpu tension slowly fall when my cpu is running at 3,6 ghz (turboboost) until it's "throttle" to 3,2 ghz ( 40 watts tdp) for few seconds with a stable VID , and grow up to 3,6 ghz ( 45 watts tdp) ... ect ect ....

It'snot the same schema than a standard throtteling... My temps are good.

Maybe it's similar to your probleme ....

 

This machine wasn't really designed to handle the higher end i7 quads, but they do work.

 

yup, that is what my 3630QM is doing..

 

Here's my two cents on the Thermaltake 95w Charger.

THE STOCK 120W PSU FROM SAGER
-On the stock charger my laptop was getting 30,102mW---31,200mW---30,207mW

THERMALTAKE TOUGHPOWER 95W CHARGER
-On the Thermaltake my laptop was getting 33,177mW---34,170mW---33,161mW

So it is a lot better!!! It is very small and I love it a lot. I am going to leave the stock one with my desk set up and use this one on the go.

I've also lowered my discharge rate to 9,000mW from 13,000mW-15,000mW and I'm very happy with that. Sadly I don't know what changed... =[
I was just sitting in the kitchen and I always check batterybar and I noticed today it has never gone above 11,000mW and usually sits around 9,000mW

 

What's that supposed to be ?

 

I think its charge rate. Although higher charge rate isn't necessarily better.