*** Official Clevo W110ER / Sager NP6110 Owner's Lounge ***

I'll do some more thorough testing. UV Bios does not help with game performance at all lol.

Easily. I have a 3632QM and the cooling does brilliantly. Idle temps are around 60-66 most of the time, with max temps being 80.

FLASHING GUIDE « Prema Mod

If you want to flash the BIOS, follow this guide.

You need to make the USB you're using bootable using Rufus and then at startup make sure your boot priority is set to the USB first.

 

Done that exactly, the issue is that the USB boot option does not show up as a boot device at all in the bios settings

 

Not sure I can help you then, sorry for misunderstanding :/

 

Sounds like you've missed something and your device is not bootable, or maybe not boot-capable.
Or even not compatible (it happens), is it a real usb stick ? Try on another computer, or try another usb device to boot from.

 

I've had to reformat USB drives time and again (full format) before it was recognized in the system, try that. Also, try the USB 2.0 port and not 3.0 port because that can also be a sticking point.

 

Does anyone have any advice about GPU utilization? I've done the usual google searches without any joy. Using MSI afterburner I've noticed the GPU only working at 50 -70% on quite a few games. It comes an goes for reasons's I don't understand. It's not a power issue as, the laptop's plugged in and set to performance in window's power settings. It's not a V-Sync issue as the FPS is not hitting 60. I've reinstalled the stock GPU driver the laptop came with on the advice of the seller (PC specialist UK.) It seems to be permanant on GTA 4, but comes and goes on a number of other titles. Any advice would be much appreciated. This issue makes the difference between games being enjoyable and being annoyingly choppy.

- I have the Nvidia control panel settings set at maximum performance. it's not a temp issues as the GPU rarely gets much over 70.

thanks to anyone who can help

 

"Sounds like you've missed something and your device is not bootable, or maybe not boot-capable.
Or even not compatible (it happens), is it a real usb stick ? Try on another computer, or try another usb device to boot from."

Yep, i have had offbrand sticks not wanting to show up. I find the 4G SanDisks work fine and many others, like Lexar as well. i found a couple of old Sandisk fakes that don't work from flea bay.

 

I'm curious as well..

I would think that how hard your GPU is driven would be the application, game, and settings like AA made? Did you see 100% utilization in the past? I was under the impression that the CPU/GPU has to be driven hard for 100% GPU by the code. In other words, how would you make an old game like Doom using 3D engine drive GPU 100%?

What about CPU throttling?

 

thanks all for the help, found it by disabling UEFI. Even then it did not show up in the bios boot settings but was recognized when pressing F7 at bootup.

 

Thanks for taking time to put your ideas on the subject. CPU throttling is a possibility. I've read that the way this laptop is designed the CPU will throttle to allow the GPU to boost, but if that's the case it's not very effective as the GPU is not reaching it's maximum performance level when this happens. I'm in touch with the tech team at PC Specialists Uk. Hopefulluy they can get to the bottom of it. On a side note, I previously had an M15x with a i7-740m and a gtx 460m GPU. On paper the W110er should be a little faster, and generally it is, with the exception of this GPU usage issue.

It doesn't seem to be a settings issue as it will come and go regardless of wether the settings have changed. All the settings are set to maximum globally on the nvidia panel and in windows. The game settings are generally high. I would think that the GPU should hit 90%+ utlization unless it hits a cap like 60 FPS with v-sync. It's a shame because on the rare ocassions that the GPU has hit 100% GTA 4 has been a pleasure to play at decent settings which shows this laptops potential

 

Interesting. I can only wonder how bios temp/current monitoring comes into play..figure of speach. Maybe drop Prema a line if he sees this with any of the mods he makes?

 

Try using throttlestop to force turbo and see if that helps. Turbo has killed a second power supply of mine today.. damn those 90 watts power supplies! This was on a Kensington too

 

Thanks for the advice I was considering this. Maybe the CPU is throttling to the extent that it can't push the gpu to near it's limit. Gta 4 is demanding on CPU from what I've gathered. This w110er has the i7-3612 in it. I have a 120w power supply. I didn't realise throttle stop could fry a power brick though!? Santa brought this for my son but I seem to spend quite a bit of time tinkering on it and I wouldn't want to risk putting it out of commission. Are there any do's or dont's for usin throttlestop? I use an Alienware with a 7970m but this is a great wee laptop. I'd just like to get it running at full wack

Just as a matter of interest Pc Specialist in the uk don't let you configure this laptop with an i7 and anything but a 120 w power supply.

 

Still fighting with battery woes.

Windows is reporting between 2.5-3 hours battery life. Core parking is also now turned on. (These numbers are not based off of core parking, this is now under trial).
I even turned the Nvidia GPU off for pretty much everything and told the system to exclusively use the IGP which has made the most significant difference, but if anything even hints at using the 650m, all breaks loose.

I've been using BatteryCare for analyzing drain, but I'm not particularly fond of the fact that it takes so long to update itself. Are there any alternatives?

Would a battery calibration possibly help?

I thought I'd just put it here too, that BatteryCare thinks I'm drawing around 12000mw which I'm fairly sure is a bit higher than most people have been reporting. I'm sort of tempted to use an SSD and just see what difference I get in power draw, although I doubt I'll ever use one in my 'top because I've already used around 450GB storage alone.

 

I already told you, but with a fresh win7 install with minimum software you'd have solve your problem already.
You can check battery usage/capacity using battery care, if it's too low (+10% used) a calibration may help, but your idle power draw is the problem here, and a SSD won't help.

 

One of the posts mentioned a near 90W BIOS peak with wall monitored wattage hitting near 105W from HT's posts. In anycase the dinky 90 watt travel chargers (I use the iGo) are great for packing in the bag and works fine, but hot, at around 60 watt loads. I would ask what happens to the internal current safety circuits on these? I guess they are like a one time fast blo fuse. I would feel better using the 120W bricks if running things near max?

@jimiglen,

If you have access, try using one of the $20 Save-a-watt to monitor your peak currents and see where your games starts to dump. Of course you could use something like HWMonitor to log in the back ground but that's harder to sync with the problem in real time.

Sorry, I stick with cool running FPShooters..

@

 

Okay, I left my laptop on idle until it ran out today and think that MAY have been a bad idea.

The capacity reported has decreased from 62000mwh to 57000 D:

Batterycare is reporting wear of 6.7%... This is the first time I've ever done such a thing. Should I be worried?

EDIT:

Oh I see, this is because the battery is already degrading. Wow, did Clevo skimp out in the batteries on these laptops or something? My old laptop had an original 7 hour battery life and was still going for at least 5-6 a year after, maybe even still 7.

 

Maybe the controller did not know the battery wear before you ran it down completely.
Did you charge it completely after that, before unplugging ? How old is it ?

 

Anyone have a good picture or two of the 110 showing windows desktop, web browser and the like so I could see if a 11inch screen would be practical for me for daily/"main" system usage ? or would people caution against such a form factor for this ?

 

There's plenty of 11" displayed in supermarkets or specialised shops, you'd better go check one by yourself

 

The key is the resolution, 720P screen,1,366 x 768. There are millions of 14 and15 inch laptops screens at the same resolution and show the same destop. The 11" just crams into a case better than the 15" laptops At the house, plug in that 22" monitor for non gaming productivity use. The big question is do you use glasses? Text on the smaller screens follow suit.

 

To chime in on the discussion of ThrottleStop and below 120W power bricks. I'm using Thermaltake 95W one with i7 and Throttle Stop is acting weird as hell. As soon I launch a demanding program or game the multiplier locks on 12X multiplier and causes everything to slow down to a crawl. The only way to reset multiplier is to unplug the power brick. However "Ac - on, Battery - off" option is disabled in my ThrottleStop, yet it only operates properly when on battery.

In an interesting turn of events such fault doesn't happen 100% of the time - I would Alt-Tab out of Far Cry 3 or PlanetSide2 for example - the multiplier would be locked on 12x. I would unplug and then re-plug the adapter, watch multiplier jump back to 28x-30x, go back into the game. Alt Tab again - locked on 12x again. I would rinse and repeat the whole process and then for some reason on 5h or 10th try the multiplier will remain on 30x even during the game. What the devil is going on with ThrottleStop?

Don't have my 120W power brick handy to check how that one works.

 

Don't blame ThrottleStop. If your power adapter is not able to supply your CPU and GPU with enough power then there is nothing that ThrottleStop can do about that.

It sounds like you are trying to push your 95W adapter too hard and it is probably tripping. Unplugging and plugging in again usually resets your adapter so the multiplier goes back up. As soon as you go back in game and start trying to suck too much power out of your 95W adapter, it trips again and you are back running with the 12 multiplier.

Give your laptop the power it needs and if it still throttles and cycles down to the 12 multiplier, then maybe you can blame ThrottleStop.

When running on the 95W adapter, don't overclock your GPU and use ThrottleStop to reduce your CPU speed to avoid tripping the 95W adapter. Buy a Kill-a-Watt meter or similar so you can learn what the magic point is before the adapter trips.

 

I've been running the acbel 90w slim adaptor with ThrottleStop no issues so far.
Granted I'm on the uv bios wih no gpu oc but I was able to run 1200mhz on the gpu with the stock volt bios and ThrottleStop on an old Asus 90w adaptor for the n61jq with bf3 stable for hours. I think the downclocks are due to the built in clevo throttle firmware which sometimes engages inappropriately.

@factory_666
Dude what version of ThrottleStop are you using? Your symptoms sound like you are using the 4.2version which does exactly what you describe on our i7-3610m. Try the version 5.

 

Don't get me wrong, I'm not blaming ThrottleStop, I'm trying to share my observations. Thanks for the advice though, I was suspecting something along those lines, was just too stubborn to admit that I have to stop using TS and lose that extra power. I think I'll lay off OCing and TS till I get back to the US and dig up my 120W.

However something I've shared a coupled pages ago - I've been using a 95W adapter with ThrottleStop for about 5 months with this issue taking place very rarely. That was in the States with 110 volts. The issue became common only for the last 3 weeks that I've been traveling around Eastern Europe with 210-220 volts in the outlets here. Could that be related? Or maybe my 95W brick is just about to die.

@Marksman30k - thanks for pointing this out, actually ran into the issue you are talking about way back. But I'm on ThrottleStop 5.

 

To add on the matter, depending on the game and even on the scenes of a particular game, power needed may be supplied or not by the adapter.
Also, depending on the lenght of those high needs, the adapter can be stressed near its max for a short period. Maybe it's more efficient with 110V too.
There's also those cpu & gpu max TDP who vary depending on the time range too and depending on each other if I'm not wrong.

 

Yeah, I just went and turned nVidia Inspector and ThrtottleStop right off till I get back to my 120W.

 

If you get 1 to 1.5 years out of a battery, your doing good. Some of my Dell's only lated 11 months, my Asus is going on 2.5 years @ %20 wear. The absolute worse was my Toshiba x775; from 4% to 48% after 2 discharges. On third battery, now with Sanyo cells from Toshiba; I have 3 full discharges at 1% wear. The thing is to try to get at least your 1 year warranty, on the Tosh I waited near end of one year for final battery. So nothing to worry greatly about, batteries suck and aways will. I will never game on them and only use them down to 20% capacity remaining. In this area my SU7300 rules ;}

My W110 battery is hanging around 2.2% after many partial discharges, none less than 20% remaining. Getting 5 years out of a laptop battery, with more than 30 minute runtime, should go in the hall of flame. I can almost do that with my dusty old Gateway

 

Right. Part of the W110ER's problem is how it manages power. It's higher than it needs to be. But regarding battery, if you went from 7 hours to 5.5 hours (averaging the 5-6 hrs quoted) that's nearly a 30% degradation.

 

yup, throttlestop works perfectly... again, I say this to everyone who wants to use this laptop with an i7. I just used your post as my informative post to quote If you want to use your laptop with an i7, a 120Watt adapter is NEEDED. On this forum, a lot of people say a 90 watt is fine and that is incorrect. Throttlestop has broke 2 90watt adapters so I know it is working properly. Please everyone, use your 120watt adapter if you have a 45 wattt CPU all your problems will go away!

 

Just note that the system will not draw more than 90W of power, it's hard coded in the BIOS. But if a 90W brick is taxed at 90W all the time it will fail. 120W brick just gives some leeway since it's only pushing 75% of the peak load of that 120W PSU.

 

If cpu or gpu throttles with a 90W, and a 120W gives normal operation, it's not "just some leeway" to me !
But I don't have a 45W cpu and no throttling problem, just saying =)

 

I'm just saying in the testing Prema and I did with the tweaked BIOS, there was a register to bump up the total power draw, but it had no effect. It was hard locked at 90W peak. But yeah, if it throttles the machine then it's more than just leeway.

 

Maybe, since some have higher idle power drawn (thus less battery life) than others using -almost- the same hardware, maybe it's also true for loaded power draw ?

 

it depends very much on your brand of and type of adaptor, some are rated for 90W but can actually sustain 100W+ easily (OEM ASUS bricks come to mind). Others quote 90W only as peak so the sustained typical draw is only 80-85W thereby inducing throttling. You gotta really pay attention to what figure the manufacturers quote as wattage.

 

There are some nice 120W slim bricks out there so it's worth grabbing one for mobilities sake IMO anyway.

 

Hello! Tell me, can I install GTM671W (combo WWAN + WLAN miniPCI-e card) instead of standard Wi-Fi card? SIM-card will use Solderless USIM Adapter. Does the configuration miniPCI-e slot for a replacement card GTM671W?

 

Hey guys, I once again have a question. I updated my W110ER to Win8 now and there is a little "disturbance" that I dont really understand. My Perfomance Index shows me only a 5.0 because my Desktop Graphic Performance is that low. Gaming Performance however ist at 6.7. This is kind of bothering me, as it is the only way to convince technical noobs, that this machine is in fact no netbook, but a serious laptop.

Do you know if its a glitch?

[EDIT] Sorry for interrupting your discussion. I lately got one of them power meter thingies that measure the power consuption. When plugging my W110ER with the 90W PSU in, it showed me up to 110-120 W of usage when using StressPrime + Furmark. With no throttle and Furmark with Premas old 130W PSU it was even more. So either that means that a 90W PSU has a real output of 90W and the input is higher, or this thing is far beyond its limits, when stressing the machine.

 

Next time, launch a recent game instead of windows perf : problem solved

 

lol. I get your point. Still I want it to say "Large Pe***" on the Perfomance Index.

 

Windows 8 has a different scaling system, the limit is no longer 7.9, it can go as high as 9ish. That low reading of 5 (i got 5.2) is due to the limited memory bandwidth of the GPU. Windows 8 was released when generally theres a whole spectrum all the way up to the likes of SLI 680s or PCIe SSDs, the 28.8Gb/s of Memory bandwidth is considered only average in this climate (even slightly archaic) due to many other GPUs and SLI/Xfire combinations pack greater values. For the record, the GDDR5 version of the 650m only gets about 5.4 .

 

Thanks for the explanation. That's really strange considering that Modern UI runs smooth on Atoms and Tegra 3.(The Atom GPU gets a 3.2 btw. ) Also why would they declass the Desktop performance and leave the Gaming performance what it was in Win 7?. #
Alright then I have to find a registry hack to manipulate the numbers meself.

 

There is no point, and it would be a lie, while the 650M is no slouch it's not supposed to score the same as a 680M as it's got 1/4 of the shaders for a start.

 

I do understand that. But why would it get 6.7 points in Gaming score but only 5.2 in Desktop graphic? That tastes a bit like a bug, as the desktop ist just a 2D environment, which can be powered by anything that calls itself GPU. Also all the cards I have seen so far have identical scores or the Desktop one is higher than the gaming one, but not the other way around.

I just changed the desktop score to match the 3d Gaming score of 6.7, which I find more realistic. My Atom here has a 3.6 rating, which shows how unrealistic this index is, as the 650M is probbably 20x fast then the Atom so it should get a 0.0000036.

 

WEI is garbage. Means absolutely nothing... nothing at all. I wish MS would remove it from Windows.... and give us a Start Menu in Win8 instead (sorry it had to be said)!

 

Hey I've learned more keyboard shortcuts than I knew before

 

The WEI score for Desktop is heavily dependent on your vRAM subsystem and partially the performance of your GPU at low speeds. Considering the 7970 can reach 240Gb/s which is roughly 8 times what the 650m can reach (28.8Gb/s), the Atom Imagination PowerVR SGX probably has at least 10.64Gb/s (1333mhz on 64bit channel) the 3.6 rating is actually quite accurate.
Hell, a system entirely with the HD4000 gets about 5.

What do you guys think?
Our laptop has 30 pin LVDS right?
http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/742600845/11_6_Full_hd_1920_1080.html

 

Is it 100% using the 650m or is it switching to the Intel when testing the desktop performance?

 

it's all about how optimus works. For the desktop graphics it is using the Intel GPU and the gaming score is using the nVidia GPU. The Desktop Graphics score is rated via a video playing and it tests how fast the Intel GPU can decode it without dropping frames. (I believe that's what it does)

 

Well I guess that is proof. I just watch the clocks on my nVidia GPU rise and fall when using a 90 watt adapter. The minute I plug in my 120 watt adapter they are stable