*** Official Clevo W110ER / Sager NP6110 Owner's Lounge ***

I have yet to find a way to turn off the 5vdc on right rear usb port when put to sleep. I guess this is a sleep and charge function.

I checked the USB power settings under mouse and USB HUB under device manager…and under the BIOS screen.

TIA

 

Guys, is there any tutorial on how to repaste the gpu/cpu? Like which screws to remove the heat sink, and if needs to remove the fan first to remove the heat sink...

 

Here you go. EUROCOM Monster 1.0 Ultraportable Notebook with NVIDIA GeForce GT 650M and Intel Core i7-3920XM - YouTube

 

Press "FN" key plus the ON/OFF power button

 

Thx Meekz!

 

Nope, still got power. I'm using a small cooler so would like to have it sleep as well. I use a BT mouse but the RF mouse, with dongle, would wake the 110 if bumped when sleeping.

Thx

 

Hey Guys!

Got my W110ER today (long 3 Days of waiting )

everything worked fine so far till i started NVInspector.

Man i think i got the crappiest vRam of all W110ER´s. When i Apply Clocks above 920MHz i get massive artifacts...

is that normal??? I know the DDR3 isnt the best for OC but f...ng 20!!! MHz come on...

Tested with Driver 295 and 310.90. Anyone got the same issue or a tip?

 

Really bad luck. You might qualify for an rma though as soft errrors precede artifacts. Run CUDA memtest from tye standford f@h website at stock ram speed. If you get errors screenshot it and send to your rseller.

 

Thank you Marksman,

tested the vRam on Stock 900MHz with OCCT and ATI Tool..what can i say. After 10min of OCCT i got 237 Errors count and ATI Tool "bings" every 10 seconds...

i´ll do a call

 

It's caused by the new vBios of the GT650m made by nVidia , the timing of the vram was changed and the o/c capabilities have been damaged.

In your case , you can flash an older bios.

 

For Real? First time i here that...

Bios is 80.07.58.00.a1

Which one i can flash alternatively?

 

https://rapidshare.com/files/3236278546/W110ER_04_03_PMv1.4.rar

Try this one , but before , be sure that it's really possible to downgrade the bios to this one whitout bricking the pc. Ask to Prema if necessary.

 

I got the new bios and i'm getting jeaps of CUDa memtet errors at stock as well. The soft errors aren pretty mild, not enough for instability. This is still problematic as the old vbios, the VRAM was flawless right up to 1100mhz

 

@ 880MHz no error is visible (CUDA or ATI Tool)

higher than 930 the Driver crashes or BSOD...i think the vRam got a bigger Prob than timings!

 

Ah now I get it. So desktop performance just wants to see large buses.

That's like back in the days when a friend of mine told me his 6600GT was faster than my 6800GT beacause it had more RAM. Sheer numbers just don't count.

Wow, that would be so awesome. I would go pretty far for a nice IPS panel in the W110. Doesnt need to be Full HD though. I'd take one. But is this even possible to put this one in?

[EDIT] Wow, that too is a Chimei Innolux Optronics (CMO) Panel. They are to be found everywhere now and improved a lot lately. This particular panel is the one of the Asus Taichi Ultrabook.
Here in this review there is a section about the screen.

 

IPS displays usually require more pins anyway so I think that spec is likely wrong, it's more likely to be 50 pin.

 

YEP, NVIDIA messed something up this round with the A1.

@AscheWandler

Make a testrun with any of the 3 Prema Mod v1.4 versions and you should be able to OC you vRAM higher...


...next Prema Mod v2.1 will have the old vBIOS with latest v11 BIOS until Clevo fixes this...do you guys want it only on OV version or all versions?

 

OV of course

Seriously , i think that everybody wants to have the benefit of the 1.4 and the 2.0 bios. Good potential of o/c of the gpu , and to be allowed to o/c some cpu

 

Originally Posted by Marksman30k

What do you guys think?
Our laptop has 30 pin LVDS right?
11.6" Full-hd 1920*1080 Led Ips Laptop Screen N116hsg Wj1 - Buy High Quality Laptop Screen,Lcd Led Screen,Laptop Panel Product on Alibaba.com

According to service manual, yes, pp44. Cable looks like this:

 

all versions please, the stability at stock vram settings is pretty horrendous.

 

Back to that screen. Is there an IPS panel, that you know of, that could fit the W110?

[EDIT] I just found this. It says in the last post, that an IPS panel requires an extra power connector?

 

Gentlemen,

Instead of posting photos of my new w110er (and the journey it made), I am asking for help with what I think may be a hardware problem.

I bought a new w110er (terransforce) online from china - no OS, i7 3630 8 gb. So, I went via the usual install process and notice that upon clicking 'b' or 'n' or 'c' the cursor likes to go for a ride - as if i were pressing the space bar.
tried several installs, tried all the clevo drivers (compared this with Sager downloads - they are same); have the latest nvida graphics driver (310.90).
something's really bad. I can't do shift+tab from the left shift key ( right +tab works); when machine boots (set to autologin), right when it comes to desktop, it's as if the enter key or the space bar has been pressed.

Things I have tried :
1) disabled the touch pad
2) installed the latest synaptics and unchecked the enhance mouse pointer
3) used an external keyboard
4) used a mouse
5) used an external keyboard and mouse
6) It's been a while I installed the windows 7 professional cd, suspected the cd got corrupt - to verify, i installed succesfully on a virtualbox instance - no problems.
7) installed the O.S in virtualbox using the iso file created from the CD.


I also checked the bios (have been wanting to install Prema's mod, but wanted to get 'settled').
In the bios, I see the date flickering - on looking closely, it was the day and month in a continuous loop - IS this normal?


I am convinced that this is not a software/driver problem.

TLDR - sorry about bad video quality (it's been a long night sorting this one) :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tkqDX3CTV-w
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CiDQhdnW7dA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LFSFpLHT9Ek

PS: - I have contacted the seller and he has asked for the laptop to be sent back to him (have an year's warranty). However, I am skeptical - this guy is no major reseller like the ones in the US -more like an assembler I think.

Thanks in advance! Any help will be appreciated.
Cheers!

 

Your system may have got some pressure during transport and/or the keyboard connector is not inserted properly.

As for the keyboard, you may remove and re-insert the keyboard connector.



As for the jumping courser you may massage the touchpad as it applies constant pressure where it should not (had the same on mine at the beginning and the problem was solved that way. Also closing the LID and opening it again reconfigures the touchpad).

You mostly bought from 慕容蛛蛛 , correct? He gives a good service and is authorized by TerransForce head office. But if you can avoid sending it back you may spare yourself a lot of trouble as he is currently changing his shipping partner (old one is going out of business). So you may face a long delay, better get it fixed at home.

 

Thank you so much Prema! Really appreciate your time and effort.

I did as per your instructions - removed the connector and inserted it back.
booted it back. For about 30 seconds I thought it worked, but nothing's changed. left shift+tab, keys - b , v, n, left alt+tab, nothing responds as it should.
And I have the running cursor on windows startup.
And the bios date problem still persists.

Anything else you have up your sleeve, please let me know.


Thanks again.


PS: heavy edit after following Prema's directions.
PS Prema : I bought it from a different seller - he had few sales, that raised my confidence in him. He sold quite a few Terransforce models. Could you please PM/email me? Do you live in or around south china seas?

 

hey guys . I just got my w110er laptop and wated to quickly ask (haven't gone through 413 pages yet) about windows 8 clean install. Generally when i install the drivers seem to install by themselves - meaning the gpu i think cause it displays it correctly, How do i know which drivers to install ? Or should i get all drivers from win8 cd supplied with laptop and install them one by one to be sure ? Also does integrated GPU has to be installed first of internal ? Many thanks in advance

 

Hello! Tell me, can I install GTM671W (combo WWAN + WLAN miniPCI-e card) instead of standard Wi-Fi card? SIM-card will use Solderless USIM Adapter. Does the configuration miniPCI-e slot for a replacement card GTM671W?

 

Hey, just want to chime in on this post right here.

I dont own a sager, but I have a m11x.
LP125WH2-SLB3 Datasheet download - Panelook.com
This model lcd is a 12.5 inch IPS, 40 pin lcd. It is really close to fitting into a m11x chassis. You guys have 1.5mm more space than we do, so it may fit better in your computer.

Here are some side by side pictures of the IPS next to the stock AOU panel from the m11x. It is plug and play, no mods needed for the connector.







If there is anyone in MN who has one of these computers and wants to give it a try, I have the panel at home.

 

Weirdest thing happened with battery. Was on battery and High Performance. Had 37% remaining, then "clack" computer just turns off. I turn it on - it starts for 2 seconds and then turns off again, as if there is no battery left. Plugged in - works like a charm. Drained battery twice in the past 6 months (only by accident).
As I've said last week, I'm currently in Russia with 220 Volt outlets. It certainly causes my ThermalTake power adapter to get much hotter than usual. Could that also damage the battery, if the power brick is not capable of dealing with such voltage?

 

Yea that sounds like your power adapter isn't feeding it properly, and from what it sounds like, I wouldn't even keep that thing plugged in, it already smoked the battery's circuitry, hate to know what its doing to the motherboard also

 

If the battery was almost never drained, it's possible that it isn't calibrated anymore, so it could be empty while displaying 37% left.

 

If your brick is rated, normally up to 240VAC, then all is good. ALL my bricks use this and I find they run just as cool when used overseas. It's the current use that causes the heating, of course if ThermalTake is not stamped on back for 240AC then don't use it.

I'v had different laptops shut down when gaming on battery in the past. The W110 battery is rated at 11.1VDC output. At 90W that's a lot of current. Me, myself and I refuse to WFO game on any battery on any laptop due to heating of the battery, I would almost classify that as abuse unless you like buying batteries or don't care about battery life.

OT, my RC heli LiPO batteries run very hot due to normal full dump to the motor. They will catch fire, smoke and or die short deaths as it's the nature of the beasts. They cost less than the laptop batteries but always looking for deals

 

Thanks for the advice. That sounds really scary, although I haven't seen any proof of hardware degradation in the last 6 months that I've been using this power adapter. Plus I have no choice - I'm traveling, and Clevo's 120W adapter will require a separate plane to transport...

@hydra Thanks for putting my mind at peace somewhat. It's a 240V of course, I wouldn't even plug that in, if it wasn't. I actually wasn't gaming when it shut off, I was just sitting in front of Login screen, eating clementines. Although I'm not sure how long I was doing that - zoned out.

 

Yea, my small igo is rated @ 240 as well and warm/hot running when gaming around 60 watt loads as per HWM.

My fat Tosh 180 watt plug is always falling out on me when gaming and moving around on desk. You can't see or hear the frantic low battery warnings when I'm in the middle of battle.

 

Here are two interesting 11.6" panels.

Both are LVDS, one is ISP, the other "antiglare" TN. The TN is the same as my reported glossy AUO B116x-V0 but with V1.

I would really be interested in the IPS but stock and other interface info is missing ATM.

LP116WH4-SLN1 Datasheet download - Panelook.com

B116XW03 V1 Datasheet download - Panelook.com

..now we just need ten extra pins. We use 30 pin LVDS, not 40 pin unless my PDF is wrong. I'm guessing from the panel to the connector by the drawings and descriptors..

Update: After talking to a local panel supplier; The panels have the 40 pin slot, the cable brings this to 30 pins to the MB. I'm trying not to pull my screen down to find the facts....so still digging.

Anyone find otherwise?

 

So, I may have a replacement coming for my earlier reported problem. I contacted the seller and he said to wait few days..It's festive season in China.

Anyways, I am considering buying a 2560x1440 resolution monitors - those korean ones that have few deadpixels. I intend to have it with my w110er. Will this work?
The reason, I ask this is because, there are several listings mentioning in bold "Monitor don't works with Laptop and internal video card. Check your video card before ordering".

Does anyone have any experience with these? I can't think why it won't work , if I buy a dvi-dual link to hdmi convertor, it should work, shouldn't it?

ebay ur for example:
New Tempered Glass 27" Yamakasi Catleap 2703 LED IPS 2560x1440 WQHD Monitor | eBay

 

You want to be careful. I read from a few users that the 2560x1440 only works with d-sub which results in a really fuzzy image while the hdmi only supports 1920x1080


Calling out to all Dualcore users, do any of you notice if your CPU throttles to 1.6ghz when on Battery with EIST on and no Throttlestop?

 

@ bitslightlymad

Assuming it's not fuzzy and can be driven properly, my question is intended use. Trying to game at that rez would be a slide show so using PS? Curious..

 

Can anyone recommend a notebook cooler for the sager np6110?

how many degrees does cpu temps go down by with a cooler?

was lookng at ZALMAN Ultra Quiet Notebook Cooler Model ZM-NC3, but not sure how effective it would work with my laptop
Newegg.com - ZALMAN Ultra Quiet Notebook Cooler Model ZM-NC3

 

which version of nvidia driver is the best?
just updated to 313.96 and my battlefield 3 stop working

 

edit: nevermind...

 

Hey im looking to upgrade the NIC in my laptop so i can get the 5ghz band. I have the stock card in here now. Is that card separate from the Bluetooth card? Also if someone could kindly point me to an awesome card I can install that would be great!! Also is there a manual for this laptop online?

much thanks.

 

@hydra - I don't intend to use for gaming. My primary purpose is programming - multiple terminal windows, stack traces etc. The only reason I am interested in these monitors is the real estate - don't care about IPS etc.

Anything else you know that will get me 2560x1440 resolution?

 

Before you start, make sure you have all the latest prema bioses, drivers and ME firmware+drivers.
High quality hdmi cables can drive 2560x1440 as our port is specced for 1.4a, its the firmware implementation that is flawed. You gotta get a certified quality 1.4a HDMI cable, you then go to the intel custom resolution settings, enable 2560x1440 at 55hz. You also got to set the mode to CVT-RB and restart the machine. if it doesnt work then reduce the frequency in 5hz increments. According to the avadirect forum, better quality cables improve the chances of driving a higher frequency.
D-sub will definitely drive the resolution you wanted at 60hz provided you can deal with the fuzzinness. Really short d-sub cables with good shielding and being kept away from electrical cables can minimize the noise.

 

Nice suggestion Marksman30k, if it works. I'll have to try it out. It does suck that the HDMI in this machine is limited to 1080p though.

 

Interesting. Sorry, including above, I can only suggest you find a brick and mortar store, send e-mail to Clevo direct or your reseller before ordering monitor. Good for you that you are thinking outside the box on the W110's intended use. Please let us know what you find.

 

Yep, the latest Prema Mod v2.1 includes an updated HDx00 vBIOS compared to stock Clevo, so since all GPU signal is routed through the iGPU that may help you in this regard.

 

Thanks, Marksman30k. What do you mean by ME firmware+drivers? ME?
And as for hdmi cables - how do you verify the hdmi quality? I have found cheap $3 hdmi equally capable as $20 (gold plated..etc bought from Ross). I hope you are not recommending monster cables

Third, where do you set the mode to CVT-RB?

 

It should be in the custom resolution section of the Intel Driver Configuration. Quality would mean a decent well respected brand from a good store, probably no more than $20

 

@bitslightlymad You could try Monoprice,com for your HDMI cable needs. Not sure what the difference is between their cheap stuff and Monster Cables for example, but you can at least take a look. And they have an awesome selection of splitters, adapters etc. I've used their HDMI and USB cables with never a problem.

 

I'll second the Monoprice suggestion. I order all my cables that I don't already have lying around through them. Great company and good pricing for what you get.