*** Official Clevo W110ER / Sager NP6110 Owner's Lounge ***

*double-post*

 

need apt-x codec mainly, and I also prefer to separate both for performance.

 

Anyone using the killer combo cards? Curious if they have the same speed issues as the intels. I hated giving up usb port so pulled the 6300 and went back to intel combo.

Hope your mod works out!

 

thanks, I'll have a sparkle / ralink combo card to sell once I get my hands on a killer wifi module if anyone is interested, works much better than intels

 

My 1202 has been perfectly fine, no issues at all with it.

 

can anyone make a comparison of matte and glossy screen?

 

should be pretty much similar in quality, except in sunlight of course

 

they also have different contrast levels

 

Actually I didn't see the mate one, but I'd say don't expect a big difference.

 

Answer, screen B116XAN03.0 its parameters suitable to replace the display W110ER?
Of course if you do not consider that the display B116XAN03.0 thickness of 0.7 mm, and does not have the necessary mounting brackets.

 

Is it mate or glossy ?
And more important, how to tell from those specs ?

 

Here are the specifications:
B116XAN03.0 Datasheet download - Panelook.com

As I understand it is available in two versions: the matte and glossy.

 

Allow me to rephrase my question: where do you see that, which line/row ?

 

If you mean, where I found the information on the display is matte, then the information given to me by the seller. Also, the information available on this site
http://www.yslcd.com.tw/Product.aspx?&&ProdCode=B116XAN03.0

 

Yep, that's what I meant thanks, as I can't see any related info on panelook, which surprised me =)

 

Now I'm interested in the answer of the expert, this display is compatible for W110ER?

 

I can't tell you for sure, but since it's LVDS 40pin single channel, it should work.

 

If there is a chance that this display can work in W110ER, I would venture to purchase this display and test it.

 

Thanks, looking into this card to replace intel combo card.

 

Also check if in production, bracket and backlight configuration. The LG IPS 40 pin looked interesting but not in production. There are some Mac Air panels that might work. Interesting that one chinese erip seller is asking $1100 for them. Reading around suggest that the IPS screens are not as fast, response time, as our 6bit panels for games.

 

Any link or ref ?

 

if we can get ips panels on the 6110 i am fully interested!!!!
The original panel needs to go!

please let me know.

 

I lied. It was $1,600...and 12 people dumb enough to buy one? 11 6" MacBook Air LED LCD Original Screen Display Panel | eBay

@Studie

The problem is no info. This site says IN production but no pictures or bracket info. I think the site does not want single panel sales as well. Searching for the LG led me to the above link for the Mac Air.

For the LG; LP116WH4-SLN1 Datasheet download - Panelook.com

I gave in and bought 1080P monitor, 8 bit screen http://www.samsung.com/ca/consumer/office/monitors/led/LT24B350ND/ZC

It was open box at Sam's for $130, normally $200.

 

Here's a suggestion to the seller alibaba.com

LP116WH4-SLN1 without touch
New
1pcs
$68.00

Perhaps there is a catch?

 

Well, at least someone will answer, display B116XAN03.0 its parameters suitable to replace the display W110ER?

 

MacBook Air panels are known only to work on Macbooks, because of the custom firmware they use IIRC...

 

If you notice the seller did an incremental price setup.

In the beginning he made it cheap so people would but it, but as more people buy it the price rose.

Take a look at the price history. For 89.99$ i would have bought it.



There are another seller, http://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-AP...970&pid=100011&prg=1005&rk=3&sd=170659092328&

There's no backlit for it so what can I Do about that?

 

Why would you want that, its basically the same panel thats already in it?

 

Me, myself and I would keep looking. All the resellers know we are asking so something may shake out on their end?

 

Mmm, a dozen people here asking for a better screen is nothing compared to thousands of win8 tablet sales, don't raise your hopes too much

 

Hello all,
I just bought clevo w110er(illegear r-11) from malaysia
Rm3226
No pre-install os
90watt power brick

Need some guide n advice..
What should i do after fresh install win 8 pro?
Driver?good software?
Should run stress test?
I dunno why people chnge bios? Should i flash it? Or stay with stock bios?
Please guide me guys since this is my first custom notebook n this is the first time install os on my own..hehe

These are my spec
R-11
11.6" HD Matte Normal
Professional Color Calibration
i7-3630QM
Nvidia Geforce GT 650M
IC Diamond Thermal Compound - CPU and GPU
16GB 1600MHz Sodimm
500gb 7200rpm
Realtek RTL8723AE WLAN + Bluetooth
ILLEGEAR 1 Year Limited Warranty

 

What's that ?

I'd say install drivers & needed software, then enjoy your laptop.

Yep, cpu, gpu, ram, eventually hdd health status.

They expect better perfs or heat (noise) management, which is not always the case

I would install win7, why do you guys put win8 on that laptop ?
Which real benefits do you notice ?

 

RM is the malaysian currency, roughly $1200 AUD/USD

You should know a few quirks of this laptop, when the NVIDIA Graphics card is active, the CPU will be locked to 2.4GHZ (i.e. no turboboost). You can get around this by downloading a program called Throttlestop 5.00. Running this program will allow the CPU to boost to the full speed while the GPU is in use.
The laptop CPU is locked to 1.6ghz when in Battery mode, Throttlestop can circumvent this issue.

The modded Prema BIOS allows for some extra options not normally available with the stock BIOS.
In a nutshell, get the 1.4 version if you are only running Windows 7 as this allows all the options including RAM overclocking, I was able to get my RAM to 2133mhz which resulted in slightly better system responsiveness.
Get the 2.1 version if you are using Windows 8 as this allows UEFI booting (faster boot time with an SSD) and allows the USB3 port to run at full speed (Windows 8 otherwise will force the blue USB ports to run at 30mb/s)
ALSO NEVER try to downgrade BIOS versions, bad things happen according to prema.

The UV and OV designations are relevant to the GPU. The UV reduces the GPU voltage, therefore you get lower OC but temperatures are much lower and better battery life, the OV is obviously the opposite by increasing the voltage to allow a higher OC.
I think the 2.1 has a hybrid OV version where you get the reduced voltage when the GPU is idle/light load but the voltage is increased when OCed.

The main reason I got Windows 8 was because I needed the faster boot times, I move around a lot and don't fully trust the sleep function. Its absolute hell of a price to pay since everything else is crap compared to Win 7.

If you want to upgrade, I suggest the following:
-Any SSD, you will notice a world of difference in performance and might even be able to squeeze about 30 minutes extra battery life
-Any aftermarket WIFI card, (Intel 6300, Intel 6235, Atheros AR9380), more reliable connection, faster speed and better drivers

 

Any recommendations for a replacement charger? I can't stand the 120w charger that came with my np6110--the cord is so short, I typically end up hoisting the brick up in the air for use.

Went back in this thread, apparently the Thermaltake slim 95w ($70) and the Coolermaster 90w ($33) are recommended--unfortunately the CM 95w Slim is now discontinued, and it looks like the Thermaltake is about to be discontinued as well (OOS everywhere but Amazon).

Are there any other suggestions for slim chargers? Why are all the good ones being discontinued?!

 

I downloaded this, and will try it out once my w110er arrives. Those that use this program, how often do you do so? How much does circumventing these limits effect heat and battery life?

 

In short, a lot of heat. Nothing unusual though as my CPU hovers at around 79 degrees on BF3 and around 74 degrees in DOTA2, if you are in Malaysia then be generous with the Aircon. Throttlestop will chew through battery life if left to turboboost but you can also use the program to lower the battery consumption. However, I recommend the UV bios mod as this will reduce the heat from the GPU by at least 10 degrees.
I use Throttlestop for games like Civilizations, Shogun 2 or older games which are generally more CPU intensive than the Graphics.

 

Can u list down the software for all the testing/stress test?
Thankz anyway

 

@mokofoko I've been using Thermaltake 95W adapter and can say that it's a good choice when you need to travel, but if you consider gaming with it on your W110ER I wouldn't 100% recommend it. Recently ThrottleStop hasn't been working for me properly and UncleWebb says that neither ThrottleStop nor overclocking would work properly if I use a 95W on a 120W system. Also coincidentally my battery completely died while using 95W. A W110ER reseller Mythlogic suggests that 95W could have caused that.

However, that adapter is Tiny, slightly bigger than an iPhone5. If you ever take your laptop with you, it's invaluable in comparison with the 120W brick that comes with W110ER. I've used it for 6 months and except for the issues above, it's been working flawlessly when not overclocked.

But to tell the truth, once I return from the current business trip, I'm considering only using the 120W when at home.

 

Here's my mini travel charger. I do game on this but no stress/benchmarks, only for the road. What is the diference between advertised 90 to 95 watt chargers? Right.

Compact Universal Laptop Charger - Laptop/Netbook Chargers sp at iGo, Inc.

I would like to find a true 120w, in the same dimensions as the above link,..with the 12VDC option!

 

Mine boots in less than 20s, from power button push to login screen.... I wonder who really needs less than that ^^

edit: 10s for BIOS init, 7s for windows loading... I don't think win8 would reduce that by a huge margin

The additional USB port I think.

 

I am not longer using my 90 watt adapters anymore. It seriously gimps performance. I use a 90 watt by my bed to charge my laptop and do basic browsing and that's it! Someone said the BIOS is hard locked to using 90 watts and I tested it with a load meter (connected to the DC line not the AC line) and it goes above 115 when charging and gaming, if the battery is out it'll max out around 100 and that is how I found out my 90 watt adapter was causing major lag in games like Borderlands 2 and BF3.

 

woo, you've got 2 w110 ?
now that's a serious fan ^^

 

What lastnikita said.

 

You put a meter inline? Well, running any supply near max load stresses things out. The Cpu and Gpu just get no respect People flog them things maxed out day and night and don't think twice, no?

 

That limit in BIOS is a charging current limit not PSU load...

 

hmm, well that makes sense. Still, using a 90 watt is bad bad

 

So is it worth it to get the i7 instead of the i5? I can live with carrying a 90W adapter, but a 120W seems too much. Will the i5 bottleneck the GT 65

 

Hello guys,
I recently bought a w110er, in the beginning it was working well but after tryng to install macOS and press two time power button due to kernel panic, my w110er turn into a horror, I mean now it stuck on the starting the one of Clevo when I try to turn back on the laptop, I can't even go on the BIOS setting f2 or press f7 for booting option, it stuck at the clevo logo every time I try to turn it on.

I'm lost I did everything, put out the ram, ssd and co, put back, clear CMOS.

Anyone in here has a similar problem, what can I do now ? If anyone have any idea that would fix this problem,let me know, from yesterday that I can't even use it

Thanks

 

I'm unwilling to pay $70 for the thermaltake, given that there are so many 90w slim chargers on the market in the $30 range. Also, why is it roughly $40 on Amazon's UK website, but $70 in the USA??

I mainly only want a slim charger for travel use, and for use while in bed--the stock 120w they provided has an extremely short cable (3-4 feet), and it drives me crazy. For gaming, I plan on just keeping the 120w at my laptop desk with monitor/accessories, etc.

Well, that's worrisome. In other words, pulling the battery and gaming with a 90w-95w charger results in reduced performance. And gaming with the battery in + 95w charger results in a slow battery discharge?

 

Maybe they changed the BIOS. In my testing, I could never get the system to charge while under load even using a 120W PSU.