*** Official Clevo W110ER / Sager NP6110 Owner's Lounge ***

I use the acbel slim 90w adaptor and haven't been having any issues. Though granted this unit costed an arm and a leg but is rated for 120 peak. I found no issues with my Asus 90w oem unit either.

 

The i5 should be sufficient for the most part paired with the GT 650m, but you may run into certain games trying to use more CPU power available through the dual core setup and leaving you wishing for a quad core. Outside of the adapter difference in wattage, the price to upgrade to the i7 is pretty cheap and something I'd definitely recommend.

 

I wasn't saying you were wrong, I just wanted to see the numbers for myself. Here is what I have found happens in my certain usage case. I'm running a full CPU+GPU load with a full battery charge and it draws 121-123W from the wall. If I pull the battery out, the usage can drop a little bit but not by much. If the battery is charging, I have seen my wall meter hit 130+! If I use my load tester on the DC line, I see 115-117W when charging the battery and full CPU+GPU Load at 19.7-19.5 volts depending on load. When the battery is out it'll use 105-110 watts. I also found my laptop idles around 18 watts which is not too bad I guess. This was all on my 130Watt adapter. I have a 120 watt that came with my second W110ER on my work desk and I have not tested that one yet. It seems to work just as well as the 130 but with no fan and stays cool all the time.

Now onto the 90watt adapters.. I bought an expensive multi-tip adapter from Kensington and when I loaded up the CPU+GPU without any battery in the wattage would go up to 95~ then the voltage would dip from 19 to 18 volts and the wattage would slowly rise to 100,102,103,104 and all while this is happen the voltage dips then settles at 16 volts!!! then it shoots back down to 90W at the voltage returns to normal then the process starts over again. This can be replicated on all my 90 watt adapters. Funny enough though, the cheap adapters show less voltage drop at higher wattages. anyways, this should not be taken as the law of the land, just my unofficial findings and interest after lagging in games

I also hooked my laptop up to a bench power supply and the laptop will stay on until the voltage hits 15 volts, then it will just cut the power off which is pretty impressive. (at full load)

 

I've been meaning to ask which power tip these Sager/Clevo units are compatible with--so generally speaking, Asus tips are a fit?

 

If you look at HT's thread, you can see that not every game pulls the same. I have veryfied this with my Kill-a-Watt as well. If you have your CPU locked WFO and doing OC then no way would I use a 90W charger...and to charge the battery while max gaming!?! That near abuse for 90W.

That said, I travel to pay the bills. I use Prema's undervolt bios and I check things before hitting the road. I shopped around and found a 90W slim, on sale $44, at a local store for easy exchange if nessesary. So 90 or 120W should be considered on your settings and need to run from place to place, no?

@mokofoko; my stock 120w Liteton, supplied, has the DC side at 5.5 feet. What make was yours? If you get creative you can make them much longer for @ home use.

Tip size should be around 5.00mm outer diameter and 2.5mm inner diameter tip. Mine is marked "706".

 

you and HT are absolutely right, not every game pulls full load but I do have my GPU overclocked (on Prema's UV 2.1 BIOS) and a 45 watt CPU. In this config, BF3 can draw above 90 watts no problem, same with Borderlands 2. CPU is not locked on Turbo but if it is, it draws almost as much as my full artificial load tests!

And in your case, I understand wanting a smaller 90 watt, carrying around the 120 is not convenient in your case at all! I am a power user and perfer to carry my extra adapter in my Jeep but use the 90 watt if I am not gaming.

 

I really need help check my message at #4248 the page before.
Anyone can help me to fix this ?

 

Thanks for checking--I've measured in the past for tips with universal chargers, so I already know how to do it I'm also aware that the same manufacturer may use 3-4 different tip sizes across the laptop line--but if Asus tips are a perfect match (with stock chargers), then at least I have something to go on. Ordered a cheap universal antec 90w, and I may need to order another tip--a specific manufacturer really narrows it down.

Mine is an EDAC charger. The cable is just under 4 feet from the brick. I don't know who designed this thing, but they should be rotting in a jail cell. I'm not going to chop and lengthen the cable, when I can just buy another 120w for under $30--at least as is, it has some resale value. If I go Dr. Frankenstein on it, no one will want it

 

..@ what amperage? Impressive you have a DC bench supply rated that high. The poor battery has to do it all at only 11.1 volts.

 

Well the lower the voltage the higher the amperage it needs to draw so at full load 19~ volts it draws 115-117 watts, around 6 amps and at 16 volts it was drawing 7.2-7.4 amps which is around 112-118 watts. EDIT: I have been using it at 16 volts for an hour or so and it's starting to do funny things like use more CPU/USB ports not responding and my speakers are buzzing lol

Power Supply I use (not mine though) http://www.circuitspecialists.com/bench-power-supply-csi3010x.html

 

I have seen the NVRAM getting corrupted on the newer stock W11 BIOS (by just changing the RAM) to a point where a CMOS reset won't help in getting the system to boot again...try to get into BIOS recovery mode and when selecting the stock files keep in mind that the W11 can not be downgraded to a BIOS lower than v4 & EC than v3.

 

OK, 10 amp supply. You might chek the output under load. Speakers buzzing suggest ratty DC if filtering poor...

 

Hello Prema,

First thanks for all your mods and your help .

Second : it is normal that i can't access to the recovery mode ? i did all what you said on the recovery tutorial (Unplug etc..) i hold Fn+B before pressing the power button but nothing happen.

I format a HDD (in FAT32) because i don't have any USB Key available right now but i'm not sure that it will be this the problem.
Don't have any alternative to go under recovery mode ?

edit : i also rename W110ER.11 to W110ER.ROM and put it on the root of my HDD FAT32

 

I would think a HDD maybe too big for it to work...also it needs to be exactly W11ER.rom not W110ER.ROM...

If that doesn't work you may try to remove one RAM stick for it to rewrite the table on boot.
Also leaving the CMOS, PSU & battery unpluged over night has helped before,too...

 

Ok i find a USB key, i rename W110ER.11 to W11ER.ROM put on the root of the USB key.
(unplug battery, clear cmos and co)
So i hold Fn + B (i take while before the Clevo boot and i saw after plugin my HDD that it try to read something) anyway i try again with the USB Key, doesn't work, it go back to the same stuck clevo logo (F2/F7) where i can't do anything, not even go to the bios or boot anything.
But for sure, the Clevo try to read something on the external storage (USB key or HDD) but it goes nowhere than go boot and stuck to the Clevo Logo.

I'm checking what i did wrong but i don't find

 

W11ER.rom not W11ER.ROM

also don't let go of FN and B button until it reboots again...

If that doesn't work check the RAM and SSD/HDD and the stuff I wrote above...

GOOD LUCK!

 

Don't get me wrong but it doesn't work because it said AMI on the motherboard and not Phoenix, maybe that's why ?

I did your method FN+B (it always show the splash Style Note and stuck on it) even i hold FN+B, how long i need to hold this, i hold this more than 2min (i only hear the fan turning and stuck on the splash logo Style note)

Yes i rename both .ROM or .rom

But it never show me the recovery mode and it only show me this stupid splash style note, i was talking about this one that my clevo is stuck on it and can't do anything, even every button respond etc... it stay on the splash style note.

 

Yaeh, you are doing it right and it should reboot instantly, but something is wrong...
After trying to boot without any SSD/HDD and only either one of the RAM sticks you should leave the CMOS, PSU & battery unpluged over night...

 

And if it works... DONATE!

 

Ok let me explain again

First : In the beginning my Clevo was working good but after playing with MacOS install and try to reboot, it won't boot anymore and always stuck at the splash logo (style note) with no access to the bios possible, so i can't even use at all from here.

Second : i did a Clear CMOS, Unplug Cable/Battery everything, even all the night, did help at all, try to boot, it continue to stuck into the splash logo Style note

Third : I'm trying your method but after reading the usb key/hdd it goes back to the splash logo Style note and stuck, it don't go on recovery mode, it doesn't flash with the new bios.

So i do something wrong somewhere, you said it should go into recovery mode and have the ability to flash th bios and it would be back to the normal, the fact, i don't know how to go into this recovery mode as it seems to just read fast and don't care about the file and go back to the splash logo (style note)

So i'm stuck on the splash logo (style note) i did what you said, without hdd/ssd, only one ram ever blank, etc...
I'm wondering why it stuck in here, when you see that everything work well, USB, keyboard etc... only stuck at this splash logo

 

IDK man...maybe remove the WiFi module? There are not really many options left.
How do you know that the keyboard works when pressing FN B doesn't change the way it reads the USB?

See I would suspect that your NVRAM got corrupted while being in UEFI mode, that's mostly why it can't see a regular pendrive for the recovery, but if a clear CMOS doesn't get it out of this...

There is a developer way to get into BIOS in some ECs:

Press FN & S button during boot

That's all I got!

 

About the keyboard works, it simple, when i plug a HDD and when a press FN+B it show the led blinking before showing the splash logo, if i don't press FN+B the led doesn't blink.

Now about the WiFi module, i'm going to try not sure if it would help.

But right now it get worst when i try many time the actual method, now i don't see anymore the splash logo but only black screen, the Clevo still work, recognize USB, etc... everything seem to work good but it's really weird, why i don't want to flash the bios with your method.

Do you use afudos + W11ER.rom to be able to flash into recovery mode ?

Again it's weird that it doesn't take what it read on the storage hdd or usb key, i only hear the fan turning all the times now.

Also i realize that if i try FN+Power hold, the led under thx picture the one on left blinking orange.
if i try FN+B it goes green + blinkind led on HDD/USB Key
if i try FN+W/X it give also a different result.

It so stupid that just a install of MacOS or something else made a problem a on the Clevo, never see a laptop/desktop make a problem like that and i had some worst computer doing better than that.

Nice Clevo in here, they should check what's wrong with the iGPU/GPU ?

 

I'd have just sent it to the manufacturer and hoped it'd be covered under warranty to set it back to stock. Worst case scenario, you'd lose $20 on shipping and be in the same situation.

 

I didn't know you could put MacOS onto a Clevo laptop. Interesting. I always thought MacOS required a specific kind of Mac motherboard. Have you installed MacOS into other non-Mac laptop?

 

Hey guys,

With the off chance that anyone still reads this thread (except Prema of couse m Clevo w110er is BORING!!!! And has no branding on it at all, anyone know of any company that does skins or anything to go with this?

Thanks

 

Boring is how I like it, it looks like a net book so it's not very attractive to steal. I even stuck an atom inside sticker on to reinforce the point.

 

Not that I know of, I prefer unbranded stuff, I don't want to call my laptop a "dell" or something, I like it to be what ever I want it to be.

You could find a local, or online engraving service, but I doubt it would look decent.
But just letting you know, the laptop has a thin rubber like layer that seems to easily peel off, I wish the rubberized finish wasn't as cheap as it is, but it works I guess..

 

Despite those who "need" larger screens, I prefer the small size, but great performance.

Net books look a lot cheaper than this system, and are typically smaller, around 10 inches, tiny track pad and a cramped keyboard that you can hardly even type on.

 

Lot's of people dual boot into a "hacintosh" laptops. Which chipsets that work best have links refering to this. As ususal, you have to break a few EULA's. Years ago. third party desktop machines were sold that used licensed Mac OS. I used my Amiga which, was not licensed, but ran OS6 better than my Levco Monster Mac.

I haven't read whole thread but remember that these clevo owners were having bios issues with Lion,

http://legacy.tonymacx86.com/viewtopic.php?t=25887&p=324708

 

Well, it's been a while since I've been keeping up with this laptop. I inherited an older-yet-still-better than my old laptop so I put saving up for the this purchase on the backburner for several months.

Should I just bide my time until the 11.6" form factor is updated with a new hardware revision?

 

Well, I finally received mine: Core i7 3630qm with 16GB of ram, and it's working very well so far. I haven't had time to do all that much on it yet but things are looking promising.
Also, the keyboard is small, but I'm getting used to it- unless you have really big hands it shouldn't be a problem. Personally, I really like the "chiclet" keyboards.
I ordered from XoticPC and removed all the branding- it's cool having something really small and inconspicuous, but really powerful. I even found a decent case, and it holds my charger and spare battery too. This won't actually work well in most 10.2 inch cases, at least from what I've seen so far. I'd recommend going to a store to test out each case rather than ordering online.

As for whether you should wait or not, it's all up to you. I think it's been nearly a year since this model came out. Of course, when it comes to computers, if you're always waiting until the next version you'll never end up buying anything, especially at the rate things are improving these days. I'm not sure if there's a new version on the way; my guess is that will come next year. Right now, if you're looking for the most powerful netbook out there, this is your best bet. Good luck either way!

EDIT: It's really, really light by the way.

 

Hi,
I just recevied my i7 3630qm from XoticPC with ultrabirght LCD. Here are issue which i did notice so far. I would appreciate your feedback about that:

1. I paid 200 extra bucks for LCD replacement and I got 2 stuck pixels on it.. Unfortunatly i did not get a bad pixel warranty.
I did kinda hoped that when they are mouting LCD they also do some prechecks on their side Any chance I can claim LCD for repair?

2. I got an extra termal compaund from xoticPC but I did notice with prima test that temmps after 15min of testing goes into 97degree!! while holding laptop in air. I don't think this is normal, I think with GPU also producing some heat in games it may cause trottling ? Should I get this BIOS mod ? but how to conifigure it ? Should I claim lap back to shop ?

3. I have used trotlestep and set Multiplier TURBO but is stuck always on max x28 not getting higher to promised 3,4.overall I never saw it going there even above 3.0 ghz at the begining of prima tests.

4. I notice strange behaviour of keyboard. It happens sometime that during writing some random actions occurse like. random letter, backspace, inset, cursos press. Does it mean they assembled unit somehow wrong ? Does it happen to everone ?

If anyone can give me feedback about those cases I would aprecaite

 

With Throttelstop i also saw my temps go above 90c, but without it it runs nice and cool, GPU normally about 65 and CPU just under 80.

 

With Throttelstop i also saw my temps go above 90c, but without it it runs nice and cool, GPU normally about 65 and CPU just under 80.

 

Im not worried about someone stealing my laptop ^^ lets just say i live very securely and when im out the laptop never leaves my sight. I traded in my m11x for this laptop, and performance wise i am very happy, but dear god i miss my backlit keayboard, and i enjoyed all the flashyness of alienware, people always commented on how cool it looks, and i had 3 over 5-6 years and never worried about having it nicked! But each to their own, i can see why some people like the unbranded look. I have removed all the stickers so its very stealthy ;P I wish it said even Clevo or Sager lol, but no

 

I got my W110ER (with 3720QM ES CPU and Vector SSD) few weaks ago and I have a slight problem there...
3Dmark 06 and other benchmarks (Heaven) used to shut off my laptop. Simply power went off in the middle of process and thats it.
I had Premas BIOS 2.1. (standard version) installed at that point and decided to try other versions. Installed 2.1 UV edition and it solved my problem - shutdowns stopped and everything seemed to be ok untill I installed NFSMW 2012. Game crashes laptop same as 3Dmark did before and so far I haven't found any cure. Installed stock (original) BIOS, Premas UV, OV .... nothing helps. However there is a difference - UV BIOS works best and game shuts down my laptop less (especially when using fn+1 fan mod). OV and stock (original) BIOS + NFSMW = almost certainly leads to shutdown after few minutes in game.
Tried different settings for CPU (Speedstep and Turbo enabled/disabled) - no go. Tried lowering GPU clocks with MSI afterburner - game lasted a bit longer. Tried warious driver versions for 650M - all the same.
Temps are not so high - Nvidia (314.07) gets to around 80C (when playing NFSMW) but there is no constant shutdown temperature I could track. CPU can reach around 75C or so.
One thing that I can try is to use 120W PSU which is on the way and will arive next week probably (I use 90W for now).


I found a thread on Xotic PC forums and it leads me to think that I'm not the only one with similar problem:

Sager NP6165 Issue

Any ideas?

Thanks!

 

which BIOS is just insttall form my brand new clevo ?
I would like to maybe OL it a bit.. I have seen people saying something about OV, UV versions of bios but I can only see one.
Is there any tread which explains how to play with this Bios not to burn or kill my lappy

 

My right arrow key doesn't seem to be working properly. It's not always responsive; sometimes I'll press it and nothing will happen, and then I press it again and it works. Is it just me? Is this a software bug of some kind?

 

The 90Watt power adapter is not supported on this setup while gaming. If you are just charging the battery and listening to music while browsing the web, a 90 Watt will be fine. If you are gaming, the 120-130 Watt adatpers have to be used or else the laptop will do what it just did to you

here is wrote on this a couple pages ago..

"I wasn't saying you were wrong, I just wanted to see the numbers for myself. Here is what I have found happens in my certain usage case. I'm running a full CPU+GPU load with a full battery charge and it draws 121-123W from the wall. If I pull the battery out, the usage can drop a little bit but not by much. If the battery is charging, I have seen my wall meter hit 130+! If I use my load tester on the DC line, I see 115-117W when charging the battery and full CPU+GPU Load at 19.7-19.5 volts depending on load. When the battery is out it'll use 105-110 watts. I also found my laptop idles around 18 watts which is not too bad I guess. This was all on my 130Watt adapter. I have a 120 watt that came with my second W110ER on my work desk and I have not tested that one yet. It seems to work just as well as the 130 but with no fan and stays cool all the time.

Now onto the 90watt adapters.. I bought an expensive multi-tip adapter from Kensington and when I loaded up the CPU+GPU without any battery in the wattage would go up to 95~ then the voltage would dip from 19 to 18 volts and the wattage would slowly rise to 100,102,103,104 and all while this is happen the voltage dips then settles at 16 volts!!! then it shoots back down to 90W at the voltage returns to normal then the process starts over again. This can be replicated on all my 90 watt adapters. Funny enough though, the cheap adapters show less voltage drop at higher wattages. anyways, this should not be taken as the law of the land, just my unofficial findings and interest after lagging in games

I also hooked my laptop up to a bench power supply and the laptop will stay on until the voltage hits 15 volts, then it will just cut the power off which is pretty impressive. (at full load)"

So at 15 volts my laptop just hard cuts off, no warnings no beeping just power off.. Not saying the 90 watt is the issue but it has happened to me before on 90 watts adapters. Once they heat up they start to become less efficient and the voltage may drop to below laptop specs and the laptop ends up shutting itself off.

 

It only happens when the voltage is lower. If I let the laptop draw the correct voltage, the buzzing goes away. It's just operation at a voltage that it's not designed to be run at.

 

Solved the problem for now...changed AS5 with some silicon pads...temperatures went up by ~10C but no more shut downs...
Probably AS5 did not had tight enough contact between heatsinks and CPU, GPU. Have to find some better solution as I only had some "backup silicone" at home today.

 

Are the clocks being throttled now?

 

Hey guys, got the USNA120 for my W110ER today and am wondering if the green tip is the right one for Clevo?

Edit: The green one works in case anyone else is wondering.

 

I use ICD7 as a "gap filler" TIM if caught with no pad replacement. I have not found much, if any, temperature diference between AS5 or ICD7 over 4 different laptops. I have found that proper surface cleaning the biggest sucess factor when doing repaste. Freon, 99% alcohol, carb cleaner, ect. did not do as well as the two step Artic Clean which appears to be citrus based, but not sure.

My x775 and W110er are my only two still using factory TIM. My temps pretty much match what HW posted in his gaming section in his W110ER review. I never had a shutdown, but then I don't own a lot of games and use the UV mod. Skyrim, still my favorite, does not present much of a challenge for most laptops thermal wise.

 

I use the ArtiClean stuff as well and have great results from it. Lots of people have told me that proper cleaning with high purity isopropyl is going to do the same but I have zero complaints about the Arcticlean. a few drops total is all it takes from both solutions and you have a very clean CPU.

 

Im curious to know, all you guys who have used cleaning solutions on your cpu and gpu chps, have you noticed fine hairline scratches on the surface of the reflective chips?

Will that affect performance or power by any way?

 

Even if it appears to be a completely smooth service, there are going to be tiny ridges in the metal. It's always been visible to me with the CPUs I've used over the years. Those ridges will help thanks to the thermal compound. It's purpose is to fill in the air gaps between the metal on the CPU and the Heatsink as air is a very poor conductor of heat. Having those ridges won't hurt you any.

 

None what so ever. You just don't want any air bubbles or air gaps. A lot of people complain about the compounding dulling effects of the ICD products but not have seen any temp problems within the chip thermal sensors.

@ dereck, Yea, I used to be able to get 100% iso alcohol (250ml) at the drug store. A lot of people will use nothing but alcohol.

Getting the artic cleaner is, imho, is just convenient when ordering the TIM of your choice if I have to mail order. The alky works great, but I get quicker results with the artic clean. Keeping the larger bottle of alcohol, water free, tends to be problem here in the southern US, no?

 

Yeah, that's always been my concern as well of trying to source high purity alcohol. I don't have anywhere that I'd be able to store it that would keep it from getting diluted naturally. I've been using the same tiny tubes of AClean for about 6 years now and have lasted through about 8 rebuilds on my desktop and repasting friends laptops/desktops when they need it done. It seems pricey at the get go but for the ease it provides in cleaning I'm perfectly fine with paying it again when the time comes, still have plenty left though.

Plus it smells good

 

Hey guys ...I am thinking of getting this as my second and more importantly portable option to go along with my M18x ......................can anyone give me feedback on how this system has turned out .........i have heard some heating issues with the machine ......what do you guys think ??