*** Official Clevo W110ER / Sager NP6110 Owner's Lounge ***

Not so much hairline scratches but a frosting of the reflective surface. It usually happens where the HS has the most contact with the chip. You shouldn't get problems if you remove the ICD properly and gently but the pressure frosting is unavoidable. At least though, it tells you they actually use diamond in the paste. I tell you now, in Dentistry, we use a 90% loaded diamond paste to polish porcelain and it has almost the same consistency and frosting effect as ICD.

 

Hey! Stumbled across this thread... I'm the proud owner of a W110ER and just wanted to say hi
Pity there isn't a better way to organize this conversation than one enormous thread.

 

Welcome!

That's TWO(!) W110ER threads...

You can use google search to research these threads, pita, so people don't

Enjoy..

 

So I might have found a screen compatible with our laptops.

ASUS Zenbook Prime UX21A-K1009X has a 11.6" WUXGA non-glare LED TFT (IPS) (1920x1080)

If we can find the replacement parts for this zenbook, we might just be able to retrofit the screen into our laptops. Should be easy considering it is just an ASUS.
Macbooks be a different story though... Now where to find...

Thanks for the input guys, feel much better. I have been using Isopropal alcohol 99% in all my cpus.

 

Nope.

Single channel LVDS = 1366x768 max.

I do have a simple throttle stop question - I set multplier to Turbo, Turn on, but I am still locked at 1200 Mhz. What's going on?


edit: just unplugged power, and replugged it in, problem solved

 

What do mean Single channel LVDS ?

 

I use WD 40 to clean the cpu's since long time ago .

Used to use alcohol long time ago, but some thermal compounds are just too hard for the little alcohol (it also kinda tarnish things).

WD40, and the compound comes out like magic (However I'm very careful, and do not spray the CPU with it, just put a little bit on the cotton, and I make sure there isn't much).


ps: Even though I am careful, I think WD 40 will not be electrically conductive, so it probably could be sprayed everywhere (But who knows.... it might be conductive ).
Keep Cool

 

WD40!?

That stuff is flammable and leaves a residue. Alcohol all you have to do is let it soak in to the thermal paste, even the stuff that's turned hard as a rock. Alcohol is flammable, but it evaporates so fast there's no concern of it burning after the system's been assembled.

 

So, I've been looking for a small, powerful laptop, and this seemed to be it...

And seemed to be it a year ago, too.

Has anything come up to replace it yet? The battery/screen/keyboard/motherboard all seem pretty non-optimal at this point, with their issues.

 

Clevo is making a 13" laptop soon. Wait for that? But in 11" nothing yet, and probably nothing for the next 6-8 months IMO.

 

How soon is soon, for that? Any details? Links? Release date?

Edit: Looked it up. Soon means probably July, which would be delivery in August, most likely. Five months isn't within my definition of soon. Not sure I could tote my M17x R4 to class for that long.

 

Well, I never seen the WD40 leaving residue, as it's just the oil on the surface, but I always clean it well, so touching it you don't really feel that it's oiled, but it still gets pretty shiny clean.

And It's not flammable (probably flammable at 500cº or more, but even with a 1000Cº lighter, it doest really light up).


ps: Try removing xbox360 thermal compound with just alcohol, and u will see how hard that cheap paste is to get removed with acohol everything stay grayish even making a lot of strength...
Keep Cool

 

can someone tell me how to properly apply thermal paste to the GPU, im for 4th time trying to apply arctic silver 5 but im getting very high temps on Gpu , around 88-90C when playing Tomb Rider or any demanding game

 

That's a pretty demanding game and depending on the settings you're playing at the high temps you're seeing are completely believable. As for applying the thermal compound, you'll get different recommendations depending on who you ask, the most prevalent method though is to apply a pea sized dot in the middle of the CPU and evenly apply pressure to the heatsink while screwing it back in. If you let up the pressure it may cause air bubbles which lowers the thermal transfer due to the poor heat conductivity of air.

Like I mentioned though, depending on the settings you're playing at, the 650 is going to barely be able to play this game in my opinion. Haven't tested it out on my 650 but it's not optimized for Nvidia very well and you may just have it turned up too high.

 

So In a never ending quest for lower temps (which means less fan noise) I have found this easy to use software called "Park Control". It lets you force parking on all cores whether the laptop be on Battery or AC. I suggest you read up a little on it first. It dropped my idle temps down to 52-54C which is nice!

Here is the link - Disable CPU Core Parking Real-Time - No Reboot

 

All you Win8 users on the W110ER..

What's your verdict? Cooler, faster, use Metro or hate Metro, all drivers found, faster IO or no change, faster game frame rate across the um, board, more stable than W7?

I'm still liking W7 but may consider change if you guys think it's worth it for hardware/driver speed ups.

TIA

 

I'll second that request. Building a new W110ER and attempting to decide between a fresh install of W7 vs W8 (available at the same price). I like W7, and various reviews seem to be a mixed-bag of comparisons (other than the GUI, of course). I have nothing against W8, as long as it doesn't negatively impact my gaming experience. I'm definitely in favor of faster start-up and shut-down on batteries (perhaps longer use away from the charger?). Of course, I missed the cheap W8 offer....

Also, any input on using lower-voltage RAM on this machine (ADATA AXDS1600GC4G9-2)?

Need to get something on order quickly, as the bare laptop shows up on Tuesday....

Thank you!

 

I know Mythlogic will do a custom cover and even entire body mods if you wish it. I'd give them a call and see what they are willing to do. Most people only get them to custom paint a color from what I've seen but there was one guy early in this thread who got some custom artwork on the lid along with the custom color.

 

No imput on W8 but I'm using the ADATA LV ram and it is working fine. Mythlogic did a custom BIOS for me to access and change the RAM settings or you have to use the PRIMA mod(but not the UEFI one) to change the voltage. From what Mythlogic told me you don't need to do that with the Samsung LV ram they use but the ADATA people store the LV setting in XMP profile 2 and 3 which the stock BIOS only uses XMP Profile 1 which is full voltage on the ADATA but not the Samsung LV.

 

Metro is horrible, absolutely horrible. You cannot know until you have tried, its supposed to replace the smart menu but between the jarring transition and difficulty with finding the buried power options (heck, it took me 4 menus to find the My Network settings to access my home NAS) you cannot compare with the efficiency of the Start menu or heck, a simple My Computer.
I installed Stardock's Start8 and all of my problems with Metro went away, I never use it these days.
Stability I would say is about the same, drivers also.
I have not noticed any improvements to game frame rates.

For me, I tolerate Windows 8 for one reason and one reason alone:
Exceptionally fast boot times
With Fast Boot, UEFI and a Samsung 840 pro. I can get to desktop in less than 10 seconds from the press of the power button vs 28 seconds with Windows 7.

However there are a multitude of drawbacks to Windows 8
-No adhoc networks, seriously, its been obliterated from the Windows kernel, you need 3rd party software and drivers to re-enable this, I actually used this a lot to connect my Samsung Phone to the laptop without needing a USB cable
-You have to use Prema's new UEFI BIOS, this is because the USB3.0 will not work with the old BIOS. The biggest loss is the inability to control Memory speeds and timings.
-Metro is a battery power hog due to the multitude of animations forcing the iGPU to ramp up speed
-Network settings, its really dumbed down, you get this annoying side menu that pops from the right and you cant even access advanced settings. You gotta go through my computer which isnt an issue with Start8 but a bloody nightmare without
-The apps are OK but nowhere near Android or iOS

 

Hi all! So I want to reapply thermal paste to attempt curb the temps, and might as well give it a refresher since it's been six months since I bought my Clevo.

Question before I do, though, the screws on the heatsink are tight as heck, and the only screwdriver I have that is sturdier than my regular screwdriver is one of those magnetic ones. Is it safe to use? I Googled and it seems safe for any normal computer, but since the heatsink here is so close to the mobo and CPU socket I just wanted to be sure...

 

Has anyone else here completely replaced their desktop with this thing? I used to have a big overpowered rig I made myself, but I sold it after I realized I wasn't really using it for what it was made to do. I'm about to purchase a monitor riser and place my 6110 under it in order to decrease as much physical footprint as I can. I'm going to need it for dreamhack this summer.

 

I use my W110ER as a complete desktop replacement. I use it full time for work, as you can see in the attachment, and for play/home. I have been using it since summer of last year. It's plenty powerful! The only thing I wish it could do is support 32GB of ram but for now I have maxed it out with 16GB. I have my main monitor which is 1920x1200 and the side monitor which is 1050x1680. (well 1680x1050) haha

The cool thing about what you want to do is the power button can almost be accessed even with the lid closed. Just stick your nail into the side of it haha

 

But I have thick fingers and I chew my nails.

We have the same keyboard. Good taste, sir.

 

ah, well thank you! Totally worth what I paid for it! The one thing I wish It could do was lock the FN key. I use a program called KeyTweak to map the media buttons manually so they also control volume and muting and track changes without holding FN. So that's my workaround to my only issue.

 

Magnetized screw drivers wont hurt at all, they're ideal to use since the screws are small.

 

Thank you for your feedback.

My major concern from your response is the USB3 support. Is this a known issue with the stock BIOS and Win8? Does Win7 provide full data-rate on the USB3 port?

One of my primary reasons to move from my current gaming laptop is lack of USB3. I use this aging powerhouse in traveling presentations that require dedicated video capability and a GigE port. USB3 is becoming a requirement as well.

EDIT: Apparently, this is a known issue & here. Windows 7 for me!

May as well get 1.5v RAM, if 1.35v requires a new BIOS.

 

USB 3 works in all versions of the BIOS in Windows 7 but in order to get full USB 3 speeds in Windows 8, you need the latest BIOS from Prema or your Re-Seller!

EDIT: In case this eases your mind.. I use Windows 8 and it get full USB 3 speeds

 

Ahh, back to the good old thread again.

Anyone thought about particular mods they might do to the W110ER?

Here are a few things I'd like to do to improve my experience:

- Find an alternative keyboard to fit the laptop, possibly a backlit one and draw a little power from somewhere else on the mobo (although I don't want to sacrifice a USB).
- Install a touchscreen to the 'top, although this would require USB connectivity and therefore I'd want to make it removable.
- Casemod it, because the standard is so boring lol.

Any thoughts people? What would be feasible?

EDIT:

In addition to this, anyone tried making the W110ER a hackintosh? I've got Ubuntu on there, but I want to try OS X for it's tweaking of the components that are inside the W110ER. Might yield some potentially more impressive battery results.

Gave it a go, but was having a problem with the Nvidia drivers.

 

noone is getting very silent "roar" from cooler when u moving ur laptop?

 

I haven't received mine yet. Is there any room to trim depth from the LCD bezel? If not, an add-on glass capacitive touchscreen probably won't fit (I tried this on a netbook; broke my LCD from too much stress. Luckily, those panels are cheap). A resistive overlay could work, but they aren't as responsive (in my opinion, having used many) and they give an even more "matte" finish to the screen. Plus, the pressure needed to make them work gives the "shadow-rainbow" effect on the LCD (matte only; glass/reflective panel shouldn't have that particular issue).

 

Anyone know the current BIOS revision? Anyone buy from R&J Technology? Any Idea of the revision he is shipping? Is SEARCH my friend?

 

I'm not sure to be honest. If I could make it so I could apply the panel over the whole of the front of the laptop and have an easy way to remove it, a capacitive one might work alright. It probably isn't ever going to work particularly well or be practical to be honest, it's just one of those things I'd like to do if I could. I'm iffy about resistive panels and applying pressure to the screen too. Isn't healthy for it.

 

Damnit, does anyone know where I can get synaptics v7.4 for the W110ER? 7.2 has no features for Windows 8 to disable the flaming charms swipe gesture. Drives me insane. I swear I managed to kill it before I rebuilt Windows...

EDIT:

Every, god, damned, time, I try to install 16.3.8.8 it just won't install! Clevo are lying on their website, 7.2 does NOT fully support Windows 8, it's missing all of the Windows 8 features... The driver doesn't even give you a reason as to why it won't install, but it just won't -.-

 

I can vouch for the Samsung 30nm Green ram to work at 1.35v out of the box as it does not require an XMP profile. Even with the neutered RAM settings with the UEFI bios, you can still alter the voltage and Command timings.
USB3.0 works perfectly on windows 8 with the UEFI BIOS. USB3.0 works irrespective of BIOS version with Windows 7
For the record, our USB3.0 port is one of those rare ones that support native UASP with windows 8. My Samsung 840 512gb SSD works at 400mb/s read and 340mb/s write over USB3.0. It was only 340mb/s read and 330mb/s write on my Windows 7 z68 desktop which only has turbo mode with no UASP.

 

Thank you! Wish I had known about UASP before. Luckily, my bandwidth needs will probably be around 150MB/s (1.2Gb/s) for the foreseeable future. Looks like I worried about W7 vs W8 for no reason (based upon current BIOS versions). Hopefully, the update for UASP in W7 will be along soon (if not already here), as I pulled the trigger on the OS and RAM yesterday.

 

I have mine set up with two monitors 1440x900 (yes they are old) if you consider that resolution a bit low.

Best laptop I've ever had, I don't think I want to go back to a 15.6" laptop, seems too big for my taste, this thing is my "desktop replacement" seems kind of pointless to not use its portability, so I rarely ever "dock" it to my monitors. I get 4-5 hours out of this thing, why not use it instead of kill the battery leaving it plugged in.

 

I find those temps are overall normal considering the heat pipe is relieving heat from the cpu and the gpu. Just don't glob it on the chip, or bend the heat pipes. I haven't touched mine since XoticPC built my system, it has overall been perfectly fine, due to its size, it should be expected to get hot.

 

1.35v only requires a new BIOS if your RAM is like my ADATA and has the 1.35v XMP profile as profile 2 or higher. If your 1.35v RAM has as its first XMP profile then it will work with the stock BIOS at 1600 or 1833 or what ever its speed is with the stock BIOS. You can set XMP profiles and such in the stock BIOS, the problem is that the stock BIOS will not let you select which XMP profile and only loads the first one.

 

I've noticed the DDR3L option in the bios with prema mod. Does this actually make any difference on battery life? DDR3 vs DDR3L (low volt/power ddr)

 

None that I've noticed. It may be there in case of compatibility issues, but it doesn't matter what I have it set at with my Samsung RAM, it still runs at 1.35v and no notice to battery life.

 

Greetings,

I'd like to know if anyone has tried to hack the graphics driver in order to allow 3 active monitors at the same time (internal monitor + VGA D-Sub + HDMI).

In theory, it should be possible. The GTX650 is supposedly able to drive 3 monitos at once and the Intel HD4000 is able to drive two. I don't know if the Optimus implementation allows for having the iGPU and dGPU active at the same time, but with the GT650m forced on, it should be possible.

If Optimus is at fault, one thing I thought of was to try to disable Optimus in the drivers and use the Lucidlogix solution instead, as that allows for better iGPU/dGPU interoperability.


Any thoughts?

 

I think either HT or Prema could better explain this but in our little laptops, the dGPU is routed through the iGPU so it is physically not possible because both GPUs share the VGA/HDMI/LVDS. The Intel HD 4000 actually supports 3 monitors if the Laptop manufacture implements this but since our laptop was designed to work with Sandy Bridge and Ivy Bridge, this may not have been possible since the HD 3000 only supports 2.

or I'm saying lies

 

Pretty spot on actually from everything I've researched.

 

While we can't drive many monitors, is it possible to use Virtu MVP because this software would be absolutely brilliant for game optimisation. An OC'd HD4000 + OC'd GT650m + OC'd CPU would be seriously great for gaming.

Having read the spec from the Virtu MVP site, it says it works on the "EON 11-S" which of course, is our lappy

Does anyone know what version we'd be looking at for our laptops? I tried MVP2 and got an error saying I needed a desktop. I just want to try the trial for now, but even then, it would be seriously worth considering buying in the future.

EDIT:

Almost certainly irrelevant, but would disabling the laptop screen make it possible to use 3 external monitors? What if VGA and HDMI were combined and some sort of splitting solution was used? Not something I care or know about, was just trying to be helpful xD

 

Having done some more research, looks like Origin are only shipping it with their 'tops. So, need to find somebody with an Eon, see if it can be pried off and put onto another system XD

 

Ok I am in the process of talking to support at EON to get software for my "reinstalled laptop" hehe

EDIT: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/origin-pc-eon11-s-review,3319-4.html

this links show the software running and the version number as well as benchmark numbers. This software looks like it's worth it!

 

Actually made by a company called Origin

But yeah it'd be worth trying to find someone with this software.

 

Most of these options don't actually have an impact on other models as well so I think it's just a hold over option without the hardware voltage switch put in.

 

I meant origin.. they gave me a link and it installed but it wants a key that came with my "EON11-S" hmm. I told him I no longer have that info and If I could buy a key from them or directly from the Virtu MVP site. Still awaiting an answer

here is the link he gave me..

http://db.tt/N46Et4Rm