*** Official Clevo W110ER / Sager NP6110 Owner's Lounge ***

Eh, problem is with cheap, cheap, cheap, the battery will die much quicker than an expensive one. And this won't /just/ be for this system, I'm going to charge my phone off of it, plus possibly a speaker bag I want to build.

Thanks for the reply anyway!

The 3610QM is very powerful! It's only ever even slightly choked by it's low clock, and in the W110ER it can EASILY sit thermally at that 3GHz clock. I honestly don't have a clue how Clevo managed to cool the thing. The W110ER seems to be cooler than any other laptop I've used, while being at least 2x more powerful.

Anyone else have an opinion on ext. batteries?

 

I like the BP170. Super High-Capacity Rechargeable External Battery Pack - BP170 There was a user who posted pictures of his W110ER earlier in this thread but his pictures don't seem to be hosted anymore. However, I recall that the battery is nearly the exact same size as the base of the W110ER and as such doubled as a lap pad and was easy to fit/carry with the laptop in a compartment of his bag.

 

On a second inspection I do seem to quite like this battery. Price is sky high but if the battery is genuinely decent, it is worth the money at the end of the day. It can be used for a plethora of different uses.

I need to find some reviews on it, see what the general consensus is and then compare it with others etc.

Do you know what the battery life is like using this with the W110ER?

Thanks for the help.

 

Well my W110er typically draws about 11W at idle and 13-14W when browsing. With that monstrosity of a battery (170Whr) I estimate at least 15hrs at idle and 12hrs on browsing. Coupled with about 5.5hrs idle and 4.4hrs browsing with the stock battery, I estimate you would get about 20hrs idle and about 16hrs of browsing/work.

I got me one of these 80 Watt/Hours external Battery for Laptop computer | eBay
Which has just over half the capacity but is significantly cheaper since it comes from an Australian retailer which allowed ground shipping (AUSpost currently bans air shipments of Li Ion batteries).

 

If you search this thread or even the forums I'm sure you'll find real reviews of the battery. From what I recall, at the time everyone was getting about ~3hrs from the built in battery, and the user who purchased the BP170 reported adding 9hrs to the guys battery life to bring it up to 12hrs total. I ended up being OK with 3hrs battery life and after PRIMAs work, along with driver updates, the ~4hrs I get now is more then enough to last me between charging opportunities.

He never came back and complained and I suppose you could contact him about it. The post that had the pictures was: http://forum.notebookreview.com/sag...ger-np6110-owners-lounge-248.html#post8668030

 

wow some of us are not that lucky.. 11 Watts?! :thumbsup:

 

Can someone post the sandy bridge i7 bios settings?

 

Hi guys,
I'm just looking for a bit of help with my w110er. It was one of the blessed few with the coil wine problem and after flashing the newest ME and bios it's still an issue. I already guess that I would have to do more.... but I have no clue what? Also the fan behavior is now up the wazuu.

Any help would be greatly appreciated

 

I run BOINC in the background at 20% processor usage to kill the whine when I'm plugged in and try to live with it when I'm not. I haven't read any consistent guide to curing it when on battery. The best I've seen is to use various tools to peg the frequency at a higher level but that results in higher battery usage.

At one point someone talked about trying to ID exactly which component is whining and covering it with non-conductive thermal goop to see if it would muffle it but they never reported back.

 

Really? Bugger it! I swear prema had had the same problem and somehow managed to fix it. Something to do with the GPU vbios now running at a lower clock speed? (Anyone feel free to correct me).

 

I have problem with overclock gt 650m, i changed core clock +40 and memory clock +20 and when turn on benchmark only memory clock goes to 920 core clock is on 950 level

 

Hey everyone!

I'm having some problems with my np6110. Just curious if anyone else has solved these issues. I tried searching, but didn't see anything.

1. After opening the lid, sometimes the laptop won't find wifi. If I press fn+f11, it just says "Wifi off" over and over again. I try to shut down/restart, and it gets stuck on the "Shutting Down..." screen. When I manually kill it and boot it back up, wifi works again. Any ideas?

2. Sometimes the touchpad will suddenly stop letting scroll using the far right side of the touch pad. Rebooting solves the issue.

3. After opening the lid, the laptop usually forgets my current battery settings (things like brightness and whether I'm in power saver mode. etc).

I have the latest drivers I could find on Sager's site. Sager has been less than helpful, so I thought I'd turn to you gurus =)

Any ideas? Thanks in advance!

 

Are you on windows 8? What is your bios version and hardware configuration?

 

Origin and CUPP wed x86 and ARM in 11-inch gaming laptop, we go hands-on (video)

Okay, the potential I see in here is staggering.

With the "CUPP" board we could literally make the W110ER a brilliant hybrid that actually runs for hours by using a secondary OS, such as Ubuntu or Android. Even better, Origin are looking into touch screen solutions, which we could hopefully do too.

 

Oh this is a great find! I really want that touchscreen more than anything!!!!!!!!!!!!!! note: these guys are horrible reviewers.... no details at all. way to go

 

Main problem for us is, we know that Origin are s, so we'd have to work it all out for ourselves.

My main worry with a touchscreen is that you need to connect it to the system somehow. The board /might/ handle that. Messaged their sales team (CUPP) for more information.

I kinda want one of those Origin covers for the laptop too

 

I know, I am kind of worried how they will hook it up as well. I might as well ask if I can buy a barebones laptop just for the touch screen if it's a hard thing to install (the touch screen that is)

 

Yea we looked into a touch-screen also, and yea the hardest thing is hooking up the touch-screen part to the laptop.. we would have to hide an odd looking little tiny USB'ish hub into the thing to get an extra USB port to fire the touch panel, and switch it with the webcam etc.. Because this model isn't getting refreshed we didn't go too far down the road on that.

 

Isn't that a point on the plus side to do the mod since it's going to be around till end of the year?

CUPP is intercepting and re-routing all connections onto their board, so essentially it's like having two computers connected to one screen, keyboard and the ports etc while sharing the BIOS &EC...

 

I'm on Windows 7. I have a samsung 128gb SSD and i7 processor, and the other parts were just default/lowest offered when ordering. I can get a better printout in a few hours.

I haven't updated my BIOS at all since purchasing in September. Where can I find the latest BIOS? I purchased from Xoticpc, but I don't see anything from them.

 

The only thing I can see beneficial is if you can boot into Android OS only with a touch screen to save battery life. It would still be able to manage videos, basic browsing, etc and run forever on Android with that battery. But I don't see that. All I see is two pieces of hardware linked to a screen. Nothing too amazing IMHO.

 

Yeah battery life is the main benefit. Imagine having all the power of this little beast bundled with 10h battery for doing basic stuff on the plane all in one unit...I personally like the idea...hope CUPP gets the new multicore board up to the task soon.

 

1. This is a software issue, but I've had this problem with the Atheros ar9380 card drivers. I switched to an Intel 6300 and haven't had driver issues since. You also gotta know that if your machine comes with windows 8. The bios/uefi that came with it is bugged know that the fn+f11 button doesn't work.

2. I have also rarely encountered this but I upgraded the drivers directly from the manufacturer website (not sager)

3. I've never gotten sleep to work properly with the w110er so I don't know how to fix this

 

But the question is can you not boot up Windows 7/8 and only Android OS? It just looked like there were both running, and could switch between the two. You could probably get 20h battery with just Android.

I always wanted to try something like that but never bothered as I knew I'd likely screw it up big time.

 

Hear that guys?? Pick up an extra one because I feel like this laptop might be worth a lot of money 20 years from now

 

YES, you can only run Android and shutdown Windows completely. Also it is a very complicated implementation from BIOS & EC with their hardware, that's nothing you could pull without Ami Source code...

 

Agree, but then I'm back to all stock and had zero sleep problems or others posted Originally Posted by zircsentin. Slow download speeds and unable to shut off sleep power to USB, right rear, are my biggest minor problems. I went back to the Atheros card because I wanted the built in BT, Killer card in the works for that.




It's painful but I would strongly suggest do a clean install after a proper backup. A guy can take 4 times as long to nail a bad driver(s) then to just shotgun the OS with a clean install..,unless you know where to zero in.

 

Telling you, with my 3 hour battery life (tbh, not even that) Android (More likely Ubuntu-ARM) dual boot would be absolutely amazing.

I love this little machine and improving it would make it even better. The 11 inch market is one that is neglected and I doubt we'll see any more powerhouses like this one for a while, so this could be a great solution to my horrendous battery life problems. Of course, looks like it's going to be impossible to get working

Yeah, OS installs aren't even close to what they used to be. You can have your system back up and running in 2 hours, applications and all. I'm sure there is an auto install application on the internet too, I should look for one. I certainly know Titanium Backup does an amazing job on Android.

 

Thanks for the help everyone. I am very diligent with keeping backups, so I did a fresh install of the OS. From there, I popped in the driver DVD that came with the lappy and installed everything there. The problems still happened, so I updated to the most recent version of drivers offered by Sager on their site. Still have the same issues. Maybe one of the drivers they included on that driver DVD is causing issues, but I can't tell which one would be doing it. Any more ideas? =/

 

Uninstall your wi-fi drivers and then reinstall. Also, open up your laptop bottom panel, make sure power and battery are disconnected. Remove the leads to the wi-fi adapter, and replug them in. Also remove the wi-fi card and plug it in again. Re-power up and check it.

I'm clueless on this one, sorry.

Make sure you have Clevo Hotkey Drivers installed. Press Fn+ESC. A Clevo Control Panel should pop up. Select "User Defined" and then set your settings how you want them. It should save your settings (brightness, wi-fi on/off, etc).

 

Crazy idea, probably stupid.

Could we tap into one of the USB ports internally, maintain its functionality, while adding an extra USB port or two inside so we can connect extra devices, such as, a touch screen per se? I have a tiny USB hub that I could take apart that probably has the board which I could fit inside. Remove the unneccesary parts of the USB port and it may well just about fit in one of the tiny spaces inside of the W110ER. Of course power is our issue here. Using a single laptop USB and splitting it into 2 or even 3 is going to constrain what you can plug into it.

Any thoughts?

 

If HT's suggestion does not work, I would think that you may have a hardware problem after you stated you did do the clean install. This rules out being blind sided by a bad driver. I would contact your reseller and list your problems and what you have tried. Anyone else have the exact problems?

I'm still using all stock drivers other that what was installed from Prema and the MS updates. This laptop has been far less trouble that the buggy Asus drivers which DO give me sleep/GPU switching problems. Switching WiFi cards between this laptop and the Asus has been trouble free using Larry's 6300 card. The hidden BT switch, in the BIOS, did give me a red face but solved on this forum.

GL

 

Ah, so having properly looked into the CUPP board, what we'd need to be doing is literally take out our Wi-Fi module and replace it with the PunkThis.

It has Wi-Fi onboard, so as long as we can utilise the Wi-Fi on the board in Windows, I think it might be a great solution

Of course, you're thinking "it won't fit" and it won't, perhaps the HDD would have to be sacrificed and an extender used to fit the board in the system. This board has a 128GB SSD on it I /think/ but don't hold me to it.

This in conjunction with a modified USB board that powers a touchscreen and can interface with both Ubuntu/Android and Windows would be /the/ killer
hinking about it, we can do the USB thing, it's done with cooling pads like the Cooler Master Notepal U2, which I have. You plug the cooling pad in and it gives you access to your USB still.

Main problems would be getting to the USB port we want to use in the first place (2 USB 3.0s are obscured by a piece of plastic, the USB 2.0 is right next to the mPCIE), fitting the extra USB connector in there (There is a space that looks nice next to the HDD, inside the caddy), getting a touch screen to work across OSes and USB power.

Of course there are other complications, but these are just the ones that come off of the top of my head.

What do you guys think? If this board does happen to be released (Even better with new components) then I think we're on the way to creating an even more potent W110ER.

 

CUPP

I'm on board!

I want touchscreen (capacitive) anyway. Anyone have the part number for a capacitive version of the existing LCD? I am aware of the small board required to enable this functionality (tried to do this in an Acer netbook with an add-on glass panel; too thick for the lid/bezel). The most common way to access the USB port is by piggy-backing on the camera in the LCD bezel.

The most obvious benefit is entertainment while on a plane. Many hours of HD video playback with much less battery-drain.

 

I don't /think/ there is a capacitive version of this screen, I was thinking along the lines of an add in pane, but we can certainly have a look around.

Reckon it'd be doable to piggyback the webcam? My idea is always a possibility too, there are one or two extra spaces in the laptop.

Also, I just had another idea. We don't have a backlit keyboard for this laptop and I can't find a keyboard that is backlit that will fit. The only one that was a possibility was the Apple Mac Air one, but it's USB based and BIOS doesn't support USB, so that wouldn't be an option unless we found a way to convert USB to PS/2 internally.

The idea I had was to create a relatively thin overlay of some description that maybe has flexible properties and has letters etched into the surface (Maybe laser etched or something, there's a machine to do that at my school, although I leave soon so I'd need to be prompt) that you could shine an LED in from each edge on and then make the keys seem backlit. The overlay would just sit over the regular keys and you'd just press them through the overlay, perhaps we find a way to secure it nicely and it could be a USB plug in.

Amazon.com: 1x Colorful Silicone Backlit Keyboard Protector Skin Cover for Dell Inspiron N5110 M5110 M511R (if your "enter" key is like a "7", our skin can't fit): Computers & Accessories

Maybe something like this, but designed to work with the LED shining through. It's a bit crude, but it's an idea.

If anyone has any clues about getting a Mac 11 Air keyboard working, I'm all ears Not even sure if the damned thing fits the W110ER, but it's the smallest one I found.

EDIT:

Model for my current screen is M116NWR1 R1.

Wiring diagram for USB to PS/2.

http://technix.free-message-board.com/t49-ps-2-to-usb-wiring-diagram

 

I have to correct myself...that Windows tool is useless...of course we can take Bandwidth readings from GPU-Z for direct comparison.

25,6 GB/s @ 1600Mhz vs. 38,4 GBs @ 2400Mhz

Spoiler

the GT650M DDR3 is 28.8 GB/s @ stock 900 and at least mine can't take the 1200Mhz to match my RAMs 38.4 GB/s


so mapping RAM to vRAM would give a bit of a boost...

 

How fast can we get the RAM in this system? In theory Ivy supports up to 3200MHz clocks, right? What about some OC'd 2133 or 2400MHz memory? Anything above 2400 is insanely priced if I remember correctly.

Also, this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3b4w749Tud8&feature=player_embedded

Maybe a touch screen isn't even worth the effort xD

 

I've never seen 3200Mhz RAM before, offically it will support DDR3 1333/1600
I dont remember seeing anyone getting faster RAM to work either.

 

Ivybridge (at least in the desktop) is capable of supporting 3200MHz memory, due to the new memory controller I believe. I don't know you can actually physically buy it yet, but that's what Ivybridge supports. (You probably can buy it, but likely for servers at an insane price).

And as you see just up there, Prema is using RAM at 2400MHz. Whether that is overclocked 1600, 1866, 2133 or actual 2400 I don't know. I know very little about RAM overclocking, I don't have a system good enough to experiment with it (W110ER is on the W8 BIOS, with no RAM options currently).

 

Thanx for the link!
While that doesn't look precise enough for laptop use (or it could be my hands/arms), I can't wait to try it at the sofa, on my HTPC with a large GUI! Potential way to get rid of remotes.

 

That's 2x4GB of Samsung 1600Mhz @ 2400Mhz 11-11-11-28-1T...the W11 supports up to 2667Mhz (with my v1.5 BIOS).

 

..goes thru the motion of tearing up sofa cushions looking for the lost laptop At least I could use this for my BT stuff but then we would need an IR blaster for the rest, the opposite of my universal remote..

 

Ah, there ya go then. That's some serious OC on that RAM! I'm using the same DIMMs, so I presume I can get similar clocking. Sadly, not on this BIOS.

Is there any way at all we could get the ext. GPU to use the system DDR3? I mean, would it /really/ make that much of a difference?

 

My understanding is VRam is still much faster than system ram. One of my old dog Acer laptop had adjustable shared ram which was, well, a slow dog. I searched and found this link for you guys to critique..

System RAM and VRAM Explained « JacksonDunstan.com

 

I've always thought the same, but Prema seems to seem fairly positive that if you could assign it to the GPU it would work. Don't forget though, we are talking about seriously overclocked sRAM here.

 

System ram would kill a dGPU's performance. I'll say it again, if upgrading to faster MHz ram brings performance increases to an HD4000 GPU........ that should be enough information right there to say system ram is sloooooowww (when compared to dedicated GPU ram, whether it be GDDR3 or GDDR5). With this information, the system ram is a bottleneck to a GPU that is more than half the power as our dedicated 650M's..There is a reason dedicated GPU's always come with their own ram

 

Now you put it that way, it does make sense lol.

 

Well not really. The whole point is that the sRAM at 2400MHz is much faster than the vRAM at 1800MHz and both are DDR3. There will always be FPS improvements if you increase vRAM speed no matter how fast or slow the GPU is. The difference may start to minimize with a greater disparity in clocks, but it's still there.

 

I never know enough to know who is right in these situations ._.

I presume there is no way to map sRAM to vRAM though? And as I already said, wouldn't latency be a massive issue?

 

Of course the latencies involved in going to system ram and stealing bandwidth from the CPU is never a good idea.