*** Official Clevo X170SM-G/Sager NP9670M Owner's Lounge ***

Well well.. There goes my left lung for a new laptop with RTX 3080

Seriously now, hope I can get support for it in my P775DM3-G and a 9900kf. Would be great to still be able to run this beauty with the new gen of gpu's. We'll see

@dsanke BIOS do support RTX so..

 

Hi everyone!

I'm new to posting here (i've perused it a bit in the past).

I've read through this thread once (god, it's long!), and i've already gleaned some interesting and useful information.

I've previously built PCs and a couple of laptops back in the dark ages, yet my knowledge and experience is, by no means, current or extensive. Please feel free to consider me to be a 'babe-in-arms' with regards to all of this, as it's likely to my benefit to assume i know nothing (like Jon Snow). By way of an explanation, my previous laptop (Lenovo Y570), has been running 24x7x365 since i first bought it in early 2011 (it's only now really starting to show its age).

I purchased a Metabox Prime-X X170SM-G last week, found this thread yesterday, and have an abundance of questions i'm hoping you might be able to answer for me please.

One semi-important point to bear in mind may be that i'm located in Australia, and ambient temperature here can get a bit 'wild' - for example, it's been over 40 degrees celsius today, with the laptop at stock running above 55 degrees celsius at idle.

Ideally, I'm not so much interested in maximising performance, as prioritising lowering the god-awful high temperatures (which may likely improve performance as a result).

My queries are:

1. The 170SM-G i ordered from Metabox was with the i9-10900KF - they did not have the i9-10900K as an option. I know the KF is missing the Trusted Execution and the integrated graphics. Is there anything else different between the two CPUs other than those two things? For example, although overclocking is enabled in the stock BIOS, CCC does not have CPU overclocking as an option at all - just GPU overclocking. Could this a difference between the two CPUs?
2. I've seen Prema's post that they've finished their BIOS mod, and when queried about it when i purchased the laptop, Metabox advised they would 'let me know when the Prema BIOS is available'. They haven't done so, and i was wondering whether there was an 'official' list somewhere of Prema's trusted partners, and whether Metabox is actually one of them?
   
3. I purchased the laptop with base minimum RAM (1x8GB 2666mhz), and am wanting to upgrade to the maximum 128GB 3200mhz. The only SODIMM i've seen available at 4x32GB 3200mhz are Kingston and Crucial, with Crucial featuring heatsink but no XMP, and Kingston XMP but no heatsink. What RAM is recommended for the 170SM-G, and is RAM with a heatsink actually worthwhile? I've heard some people mention that Crucial's won't actually ever reach 3200mhz as it's not supported by the MOBO. What are your thoughts and opinions?
4. I gather that to get to RAM slots 2 and 4, i need to get under the keyboard. The pictures posted here in this thread earlier (no idea where - just remember seeing them), indicated that all i'd need to do is remove the two screws next to the fan covers and use the 'tool' to push out the keyboard to access the 2 & 4 slots. Is this true, and if so, i don't have that tool, so what else could i use instead? Or, do i have to take off the fan cover and pipes entirely to remove the keyboard?
5. The laptop currently does not have XTU installed and only has CCC. Should i uninstall CCC and install XTU instead? I read somewhere that having both installed and used concurrently causes conflicts. I'm not sure whether this is true or not.
6. If i've read correctly, Mr. Fox has identified that the CPU can be undervolted by -0.100 volts using XTU. Is this correct, or am I missing something? Can i simply copy Mr. Fox's XTU values exactly, or is there something else i also need to do?
   
7. Will the use of a cooling pad (such as the TopMate C11), have any realistic effect on lowering temperatures, or is it just a waste of money?
8. I've been observing some conflicting reports on the best paste to use, with some advocating various non-liquid metal, and some for liquid metal. I'm more interested in the best 'long term' and effective solution than a 'quick and efficient' fix. What types and brands do you recommend?
9. I've been watching/reading Mr. Fox's guides on delidding, tightening screws and undervolting, yet is there a more comprehensive list of 'essential' things needing to be done available somewhere, preferably with 'how to' videos/guides?
10. Is there anything I've missed mentioning which may also assist in improving temperatures?

Any advice, input, comments and/or assistance is greatly appreciated!

Many thanks in advance!

 

Just got an email from zTecpc that my laptop shipped today. That was fast.

 

1: They both are essentially the same chips manufactured on the same manufacturing setup. The KF version are those chips that come with damaged graphics module and are then sold separately with the graphics module disabled. There are no other differences. If I were you, I wouldn't touch the overclocking features in CCC with a 10 foot pole. Refer to this guide.
2: @Prema can tell you better.
3: I have Kingston HyperX 32GB x 4 installed in my machine and is consistently running at 3200 MHz with 0 problems. Heat sinks are pretty much a gimmick when it comes to laptop RAMs. The only time they are needed on RAMs is in a data center environment with stacks of computers running in a jam packed cabinet which can become a furnace quite quickly.
4: Open the back plate and you will easily locate the 2 screws for keyboard as they have a keyboard symbol imprinted right next to them. Take them out and you can do the rest with your finger nails. No need for any special tool. Just pry the keyboard up with your nails starting from the mid-top part close to F8 and F9 keys. If you have to use a tool absolutely, positively, then use a credit card. Then work your way towards the sides and it will pop out. Also to insert RAM in one of the slots underneath the keyboard, you will have to take the ribbon cable daughter board held together with 2 screws which shouldn't be a problem.
5: Refer to the guide I mentioned above. Once again, link here.
6: -100 mV is a very lucky scenario in 10th gen intel chips. You will be absolutely lucky to get such a chip from open market. A safer way is to start from -50mV and work your way down from there. I recommend throttlestop. Intel XTU has been a nightmare as of late due to unprecedented bluescreens and conflicts with CCC as mentioned in the guide I shared above twice.
7: It will make a difference however try to go with something a little bigger as this machine is both big and bulky. I recommend Thermaltake Massive 20 RGB. Excellent cooler, metal grill, huge fan and super quiet. Very sturdy too.
8: Gelid GC Extreme is the most consistent performer and has almost 0 difference in temperatures between different batches. My tests have consistently put it well above the much hyped Kryonaut. Kryonaut QC is horrible and you can get as high as 3-5 degrees celcius temperature difference between different product batches depending upon your luck. Phobya Nanogrease Extreme performs really well too but is quite difficult to get your hands on in most parts of the world. In most scenarios, shipping costs are higher than the actual product cost in this case.
9: You need a bunch of small washers (M3 size for GPU spring loaded screws, 2 per screw and M4 for CPU spring loaded screws, 1 per screw) which you can put under your screw springs to increase the mounting pressure as I have done here. Excellent thermals. http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...m-owners-lounge.831618/page-292#post-11059448
10: Make sure that you do not use very stiff thermal pads anywhere. Here's a quick thermal pad guide for reference:

Fujipoly pads won't work as good in this machine as I have tried them already, the main reason being their stiffness. The softer the pads are, the better thermals you'll get. Also, increasing the heat sink mounting pressure is key. You'll need M3 and M4 size washers. Get a box like this from AliExpress. Super handy!

 

I have a couple of quick questions / requests for feedback.
1: Has anyone been successful in making Flexi Charger feature work? It seems to be properly enabled and configured in BIOS but it doesn't seem to do anything. I have set it to 80% charging cutoff and it is still charging the battery all the way upto 100% every time!
2: Is there a way to turn the default blue keyboard backlight off on linux? I have seen some third party repos that have code available for other clevo models however for this machine, so far, nothing seems to turn that blue backlight off on linux which is SUPER ANNOYING and strenuous for the eyes.

 

Welcome to the community, and congratulations on your X170 beast.

The 10900KF works fine in the X170 and overclocks the same as the 10900K. The overclocking and undervolting capacity varies by silicon bin quality as it does with any CPU or GPU, or memory IC. I have a cherry-picked binned sample that is not exemplary of the average 10th Gen processor. If anyone can run my settings with stability, that will be a good way for them to measure to confirm that they have a better than normal sample.

Metabox Australia is a PremaMod Partner Shop and they will be receiving the BIOS. Once they have it they should be reaching out to you to arrange for remote flashing.

After removing the screws, you can push up the keyboard using a screwdriver small enough to fit into the hole in the chassis. That is how I do it. The keyboard is held in place with magnets and tabs that snap in place, so putting the screws back in is totally optional. The keyboard will not go anywhere and will stay secure without the screws. There is a ribbon cable interposer with two screws, so carefully raise the keyboard enough to access the screws after the keyboard is loose. This is a nifty idea to prevent ribbon cable fatigue from the ribbon cables having a sharp bend to them. You have to remove that to place a memory module in RAM slot #2.

Follow Brother @S.K guide for cleaning up CCC rubbish. You can use XTU or ThrottleStop. There is no conflict with XTU and CCC, as CCC uses an abnormally bloated version of XTU to help castrate the laptop. (That is why @S.K guide is important.) You can use Obsidian utilities for fan and keyboard LED controls, but I would avoid installing them until the PremaMod BIOS is applied to your system. If you install them before that is flashed you need to be sure Metabox disables/removes them before flashing as the end result can turn out badly. The ClevoService that the Obsidian utilities install must be removed or disabled to avoid the potential for problems with the EC.

My preference for normal thermal compound is Phobya Nanogrease Extreme if you have access to it in Australia. You are better off using the really soft and squishy silicon thermal pads that feel wet and sticky versus the ridiculously expensive hard thermal pads with a high conductivity rating. Having better thermal conductivity is essentially worthless when the pads do not compress and result in contact interference with the CPU or GPU die. The cheaper pads are also more durable. The expensive pads that are hard do not hold up as well.

 

The tacky blue color really sucks. It always has. I hated that on previously owned Clevos. It seems someone at Clevo is in love with royal blue. I wish they would make white the default. My preference is white. If you can use CCC or Obsidian tools to change it to your preferred color it should survive a reboot/cold boot even booting into Linux as long as you choose the option to override the boot effect on the screen for the keyboard color controls. It does for me. The lightbar settings do not stick as well as the keyboard color does.

I have never used Flexi-Charger on any Clevo. @Spartan@HIDevolution used to use it if memory serves me correctly, but I have never cared to use it. The Insyde H20 BIOS is a mess. It sucks on every platform that uses it across all brands of notebooks. (Even the PremaMod can't fix everything that is wrong with Insyde H20... it's horrible.) So, it is possible the feature is broken like other things that don't work properly with Insyde H20. It was extremely stupid for Clevo to stop using AMI BIOS. It is a far superior firmware. Having a bloated GUI with broken firmware just so it could look fancier than a text UI and have a mouse cursor was idiotic. They should have stuck with the old school AMI BIOS or paid extra for the graphical version of the AMI BIOS instead of downgrading to Insyde to save money.

 

That is how we roll...we ship within 3 business days for Customized and same or next day for pure stock.

 

Yup, finally got it running with no keyboard back light with that feature. However it doesn't retain the effect even for keyboard in my case as now the keyboard is totally backlight-free until it logs back into windows. It was supposed to retain the most recent backlight theme assigned ideally, but no backlight is better than blue in this case.
I agree with Insyde being horrible. It's like FIAT-Chrysler of firmwares. I wonder if Clevo will ever release a fix for it but I really liked my Area 51m's custom charging feature. It kept my battery at 75% charge max which prolongs the battery life considerably in the long run. I might as well go ahead and simply remove the battery for desk work (if that's even allowed; haven't tried yet).

 

I am liking zTecpc so far. If you have plans to open a regional office in Singapore, I'd like to join in.

 

Thanks!

For now, zTecpc a new company that pulled together a bunch of experienced players, but is just getting known in the USA. Expansion planning is a bit premature, but I have logged your interest, and will know who to reach out to should that time come.

 

We would love to offer a 3K QHD (2560x1440) upgrade. Frankly, we haven't had time to source the screens, and cables.

Does anyone have manufacturer and model number for good 3K QHD (2560x1440) screens?

 

Done some mods with the washers , until my new screws, antilocker and phobya's paste arrive ( still not going to get pads until we can get a more definite answer on the best option).
Thus far, aida cpu+fpu+cache and heaven benchmark with gsync disabled runs below 90 C all the time ( 10600k, non delidded ) while the gpu ofc stays stupidly cool at 67 C.
Most of the cpu and gpu results however come from throttlestop and msi afterburner tuning.
For a standard all day setup :



+200 Mhz on gpu memory
Also, believe it or not, this being a laptop, supposedly and allegedly, I created a battery profile that works wonders with battery saver, where you can squeeze well over 3 hours of general but active use.
Of course still ever so happy to have deleted any xtu , ccc uwp related component from the face of the earth.
Will update once all the pieces do arrive

 

Amen to that! I'd rather have nothing than the bright royal blue. Tacky, tacky, tacky, LOL. (No offense to those that like it. Obviously, at least one person does at Clevo.)

Yes that will work fine. No battery needed. Prema usually runs his without a battery and when I am testing RAM overclocking and firmware mods I disconnect the CMOS and system battery so that unplugging AC power makes the NVRAM poop on itself.

Sweet. Nice job on the temps. ThrottleStop is so excellent. I hope that @unclewebb can find the time to add 10-core support for the multipliers and benchmark one of these days. If he does, we need to send him a PayPal thank you for doing us a solid. The GPU staying stupidly cool is a huge blessing since "thermal throttle" nonsense on Pascal and Turing GPUs starts at below ambient temperatures.

 

It is thanks for the vapor chamber and all, however, I had to limit the voltage to that extent because of the sensible increase in temps once the gpu hits power limit. And yes, between Throttlestop, afterburner and Obsidian's apps , the laptop really can take a breather ( before Prema of course, whenever, if ever it becomes available for us EU plebs )

 

Interesting note on the battery...I just got back from a deployment in Poland and Germany, and in Germany I was on Germany 220V power, and my battery in my MSI GS63 VR expanded so much overnight one night that it almost busted the screws holding it in. I had to do the remaining deployment (about 5 months) without a battery. It was pretty crazy.

 

Question about emulation. One of the reasons I got this specific laptop is because I play emulators. I have tried to play Red Dead Redemption on RPCS3 (yes, I own the PS3 version) and I am only getting 13ish FPS. I have the 19 10900k 2080 super and I definitely should be getting over 30fps on my x170. Anyone know what the issue could be? I haven't seen any posts in the RPCS3 forums with x170s mentioned... Thanks.

 

Is hardware virtualization (VT-d) enabled in the BIOS? It may or may not be enabled by default, and if not, that'll adversely impact virtualization performance by a significant amount.

 

Maybe once some people in the tong fang forums start getting the new laptops that have these we’ll be able to find out. It’s a shame QHD isn’t that standard on a high end laptop these days.

 

It wasn't enabled but I did enable it. Somehow it didn't make a difference

Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk

 

Congrats. That means mine should be finished soon! Can’t wait!

 

Indeed. Very quick turn around time even during the holiday rush. Anywhere else would’ve been end of December at best.

 

I do expect pics and benchmarks

 

Oh if you must insist. ​

 

I am running +700 MHz on my GPU memory without any stability problems. It can run a lot higher but I noticed negligible gains in performance beyond this point so bumped it down. I have successfully increased the GPU Ram clocks by upto 1300 MHz with no problems. Artifacts start appearing if I go higher. You might have a lot more headroom available than only 200 MHz.

 

I’m actually very excited to see what I can get out of the memory overclock on this machine. A lot of people sleep on gpu memory overclocking a lot and it’s just as important as core overclocking for added performance. Why some manufacturers seem to limit this to +200 or 300 MHz on thin and lights is beyond me.

 

Any idea when Prema bios mod for this machine will be available for general public to buy?

 

Gaming Eluktronics thicc-15 AMD Ryzen 9 3950X 16GB 1TB 16 Core 2070 clevo sager



AMD Ryzen 9 3950X desktop AM4 socket cpu 16 Core 32 threads!
16GB 3200MHZ Ram
1TB Samsung 850 Pro VNAND
RTX 2070 Refresh 8GB GDDR6
144HZ 1920x1080 beautiful screen
Running latest XMG BIOS
WIFI/Bluetooth, micro-sd slot, 3 USB ports, HDMI, usb-c, mini display port
230Watt power supply
This thing blows away my desktop i9-10900k in benchmarks Cinebench R15 and R20
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Gaming-Elu...6GB-1TB-16-Core-2070-clevo-sager/164541233286

is this really a 10900 killer?
starting bid 1,700 on ebay (No bidders so far), 2,200 buy it now price.

 

That is not allowed. It's not for sale and that actually violates the agreement. If a Partner Shop is caught selling it they will no longer be a Partner Shop. They will be removed and won't receive any future firmware mods. I know of at least one case where that happened.

There are currently only two ways to get the Prema BIOS legally:

1. Purchase a system from a Partner Shop
2. Receive it as a free gift from Prema directly
   (freewill donations are accepted, based on each person's ability)

 

That's what I meant. If Prema makes it available for sale at some point in time then it will be awesome!

Btw, I figured out a MUCH cleaner way of installing only the required apps from CCC instead of installing the entire bloated package. I will be updating the guide today. No file and registry deletions required now!

 

Here you go lads. Enjoy!

Merged both guides into 1 post: http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...ent-completely-x170sm-g.834715/#post-11061530

 

The 165hz 1440p panel should be this one:

BOE NE173QHM-NY2

Model Number BOE NE173QHM-NY2
Device ID BOE0977
Panel Type IPS-type
Resolution 2560*1440
Pixel Density 169.78 PPI
Refresh Rate 165Hz
G-SYNC/FreeSync no
Brightness: over 300 nits
Contrast 1:1000 typical
Color Gamut over 95% sRGB
Lowest G2G Response Time 4.19ms
Average G2G Response Time 7.09ms
Maximum Power Consumption 7W

Source:
https://www.reddit.com/r/XMG_gg/comments/k1bvh3/xmg_neo_15_now_available_with_25601440_at_165hz/

 

The score in that screenshot seems extremely low for a 16 core CPU. It is not remarkably better for having 6 more cores and 12 more threads... actually rather pathetic. That much CPU is going to have to be severely crippled in a laptop. It can't run well enough to reach its proper potential with so many compromises, especially in a 15-inch form factor. AMD has come a long way, but the thing that they are still unable to reckon with is the fact that clock speed is still king and that is Ryzen's Achilles' Heel in terms of their ability to compete. They still need L2N and sub-zero cooling to complete with the equivalent Intel CPU cooled with only water.


16-core Intel with a nice overclock (something Ryzen can't do well at all unless you resort to LN2 and even then not as well as Intel on water) - this was my result

My 10900K with 6 cores and 12 threads less...

 

In other laptops, they're running at a MUCH lower TDP, because they just can't keep them cool.

The BIOS was forcing "Eco" mode to drop it from whatever it's TDP is (model in the review was the 3900X with 105W) to 65W.

 

Not when locked at 0.869 Volts I don't. I have another unlocked profile with a +800 on memory, but it rides on the power limit.

 

Yes that's a very low voltage. Why don't you switch to MSI afterburner as it allows you to have all the freedom in the world?

 

I explained which app I use, and why, earlier ( spoiler alert, the custom voltage curve is done with msi afterburner to avoid...drum roll..power limit riding)

 

That's good and all but I am still unable to understand why you have to use such a low voltage when the GPU can run very cool at much higher voltage? I can easily run my GPU at 1 volt solid however I keep it locked at 975mV to keep the temperature in the "low" territory as the performance is solid enough for all the games that I play at this point (not a fan of balls to the wall at all times for GPUs).

 

Many thanks for the detailed info S.K.! You've been amazingly helpful and it's greatly appreciated!

Unfortunately, it seems i can't get hold of Phobya, so it looks like Gelid GC Extreme will be the next option, but even that is extraordinarily limited in availability too, and seems quite expensive at over AUD$100 per 10g delivered.

What brand and model pads would you recommend?

Thank you for the welcome Mr. Fox, and thank you for your fantastic videos too! You've been an absolute treasure trove of helpful information!

You have also eased some weight off of my mind. I'm glad Metabox is a PremaMod Partner Shop! Now, i can't wait to get my hands on the BIOS!

Would you object if i were to hassle you with a few additional questions please?

1. What RAM do you currently use and/or recommend?
2. If Phobya Nanogrease Extreme isn't available, what would you recommend for the best thermal compound to, in this priority order, reduce termperatures and with best durability/longevity (I don't really want to have to repaste every 6-12 months if i can avoid it). I'm also not adverse to giving liquid metal a try, even knowing i can ruin my chip in the attempt - what kind of reward comes without risk?
   
3. Are there any particular and specific brand and model thermal pads you'd recommend?

Many thanks again for all of your input, advice, and suggestions!

 

I know I'm terrible

 

Lol, "purple" pixel during black screen images ( noticed during bootup ), is it something fixable software wise or at home by any chance?

 

Here is a program you might try running to get stuck pixels (colored ones) unstuck. http://udpix.free.fr/, and a manual method is described at http://www.wikihow.com/Fix-a-Stuck-Pixel-on-an-LCD-Monitor

Please let me know if it works for you.

 

Thank you for the kind words. I am glad you have found my videos helpful... mission accomplished.

I prefer modules with Samsung or Micron IC. I have not found S.K. Hynix to be good at all. (This applies to GPU memory ICs as well.) Samsung and Micron are better at overclocking and handle tighter timings better. I am running G.SKILL Ripjaws 8GB modules with Samsung C-die. B-die is the best, but it is hard to find. The G.SKILL sticks have the popular crappy slow and sloppy stock 3200AA CL22 JEDEC, but I am running 3200 15-17-17-32 2T with 1.400V and used Thaiphoon Burner to create an XMP profile for that. With Micron ICs 3200 CL16-18-18-38 2T with 1.350V has been stable. With Hynix you may run into difficulty booting even with the slow stock 3200AA CL22 JEDEC unless you use Thaiphoon Burner to mod the XMP profile to increase the voltage from 1.200V to 1.350V, but CL18 is about as tight as the timings can stand with Hynix, and it gets worse with 16GB and 32GB modules using Hynix IC.

You will need the PremaMod BIOS before you can do any memory tuning in the BIOS and Thaiphoon Burner will not work with the stock (or a stock unlocked BIOS hack) because the SPD is write-protected. Prema has that unlocked by default so you can use Thaiphoon Burner. I am not certain whether or not the Insyde BIOS has a menu to enable SPD write if someone uses a hacked version with all of the menus exposed.

If you cannot get Phobya, Thermalright TFX is also very good. Brother @Falkentyne has some guidance on using it that he can share. GELID GC Extreme works decent but I have not found it to be durable. It is too lightweight and more susceptible to pump-out. Arctic MX-4 works about the same as GELID GC Extreme for me and it is more durable. Liquid metal works best, but you need to create a foam barrier to keep it contained if you move the laptop around a lot to avoid the potential for any kind of mishap. I use Coollaboratory Liquid Pro (not Liquid Ultra) now and prefer it over others. Thermalright also has a good liquid metal compound. Avoid Kryonaut and Conductonaut. They used to be decent, but my results with Thermal Grizzy hasn't been as good over the last year or two. No need to use liquid metal on the GPU for the X170. It runs ridiculously cool with normal thermal paste and you don't have to worry about electrical conductivity.

Thermal pads can cause more harm than good when they cause contact interference with the die. The insanely expensive high thermal conductivity pads are some of the worst offenders. They are too hard and do not compress well. They also tend to crack and crumble, so they can be a single-use option that ends up costing you more with no measurable benefit in terms of cooling. There is nothing wrong with the stock Clevo thermal pads. I would not waste any money replacing them unless they are too thick. Brother @S.K has some good guidance on thermal pads thickness. I believe he has posted that in this thread in more than one place. Whenver I replace pads, I will only buy the soft, wet, sticky, and squishy silicon pads that will easily compress. I find they work best because they do easily compress and are unlikely to cause any contact interference. You do not need a high thermal rating for them to perform the job they need to perform.

 

Cheers, trying both apps there with no result so far, before resorting to contacting PCspecialist, which last time told me for a springed cpu screw I needed to purchase the entire heatsink for 150 euros, so not too fond of those cozy chats thus far.

1 hour, tried both, no result, still stuck on purple, actually, other colours show other very close pixels being wonky too, great

 

Yes, that is the one. The issue is...sourcing it. If anyone can help, it would be appreciated.

 

I splurged for the Grizzly Kryonaut Extreme. Seems to be equal to 1C better than Thermalright TFX, and several C better than Kryonaut (unknown about the Liquid Helium Edition). It was actually able to handle pushing 550W through my shunt modded RTX 3090 FE at 75C, and the boost voltage tier also kicked in (the 1.087v-1.10v) even past 70C more often at 100% voltage slider, but I don't know if that's from the paste working a bit better, or from the Thermalright TFX thermal pad repad of the 3090 backplate PCB (same pads and positions, just put on some new ones since the modded ones from before were starting to get old from constant disassembly).

Here is "sort of" what my back looks like.


Those are Thermalright Odyssey pads but not my card.
My exact positions I used were these

 

There I was, thinking I bought an Intel machine, maybe this is why CCC / XTU doesn't work really well with it, lul

 

Is this memory correct for this laptop?

https://memory.net/product/m471a4g4...4-3200-sodimm-pc4-25600s-dual-rank-x8-module/

 

Photos of your shunt mod, please.

Yup, all that AMD crap is just a bunch of extra bloat that allows CCC to work on Intel and AMD laptops. I guess they're too lazy to make a good utility for each platform, so they make a crappy one-size-fits-all UWP piece of garbage instead.

Yes, that should work fine. It's Samsung so that is an effective way of eliminating the wildcard of ending up with some crappy Hynix IC modules.

 

Who doesn't love the smell of fresh-picked cherries?

Here is the system I am using for CPU binning.

Cherry juice is good for gout and for overheating laptops.