*** Official Sager NP8150/Clevo P150HM Owners Lounge ***

Awesome looking spec, nice. Myself:

i7-2630QM
16GB 1333mhz RAM
95% gamut matte screen
500gig 7200RPM HDD
Intel Advanced-N 6230
1 year pickup, 2nd and 3rd year RTB warranty

Did you go with the i7-2760QM due to the degree you'll be doing? And the Blueray is purely for a large personal Blueray collection? The one thing I'm a little unsure about is whether I should have gone with a SSD...

 

I went with the 2760 for a few reasons. Firstly I love processing power , but also the 2760 is required for the RAM I got to work at full speed. I could also have chosen 16GB of 1333MHz RAM for the same price, but I thought I would be struggling to use 8GB anyway. A good processor certainly won't hurt in a computing degree either. I might want to develop some power hungry programs in the near future. You never know I suppose.

I wanted the Blu-ray reader because yes, I do own a few Blu-rays and I won't have a Blu-ray player around at uni, and I also want to future-proof my rig a bit.

And you should probably have gotten an SSD! People underestimate just how much it speeds up pretty much everything on your PC. I'll probably be hibernating my PC instead of shutting it down all the time, so I get an ultra-fast return to what I was last doing. I'm getting a 750gb 2.5" external HDD (WD My Passport) for around $110 to store anything that needs archiving or if my SSD fills up. It's all planned out

 

New member and just ordered a Sager NP8150, spec listed below, and have a couple questions.

First, I've read many reviews saying the sager matte display is incredible, but I have only ever owned glossy displays, will i notice a difference? It is hard to judge the quality via online video reviews.

Secondly, and this one I have found a little less info on, will there be any bottle-necking issue for gaming between the 6990m, the i7-2670QM 2.2ghz, and the 1333mhz ram?

Third, I am also going to use this as my primary computer for law school, but the 1.5 hour battery life might cause me some problems, are there any cheap solutions that anyone has found to extend the battery life so I don't have to lug the brick to every class and sit next to an outlet. I don't mind lugging it if I have to, but my case books are huge and adding the brick will be a tetris style challenge.

Thx in advance guys.


Display: 15.6" FHD 16:9 "Matte Type" Super Clear Ultra Bright LED Anti-Glare Screen w/ 95% NTSC Color Gamut (1920x1080)

Processor: 2nd Generation Intel® Core™ i7-2670QM, 2.2-3.1GHz

Graphics Video Card: ATI Mobility Radeon™ HD 6990M 2048MB

Ram: 8GB - DDR3 1333MHz Dual Channel Memory

 

Acutally, the Intel® i7-2630QM and Intel® i7-2670QM will also support up to 16GB of DDR3/1600 without downclocking. They support it fully as evidence by literally hundreds of laptops that we have built with that configuration.

 

Yes, both the standard matte screen and the 95% NTSC Color Gamut Matte LCD are indeed incredible, but the 95% will show you more colors and they will be noticeably more vibrant. The main advantages of a matte screen are there is no reflection, the colors are more accurate, and while neither will work very well outdoors the matte will work better than glossy.

In a word...no. Your biggest bottle-neck would be a mechanical hard drive, but that would be eliminated were you to get an SSD. The SSD won't help that much in gaming, other than loading your games faster.

Battery Life run time is very dependent on your hardware configuration, applications, and OS power settings. To maximize your battery life your screen brightness should be turned down as low as you can make it while still being able to read it comfortably, any unnecessary programs running in the background should be exited, your wireless and Bluetooth cards should be off if you are not using them, and your Power Management setting should be set for maximum battery life. If you have your settings at max battery life you should expect around 2+ hours with normal computing.

 

I'm gonna need the wireless for class, as most of our stuff requires access to legal databases, are there any light external batteries that might help? I used to have a thin flat one years ago that my laptop could sit on and gave about 2-4 hours of extra power, but I haven't seen anything like that around in a while, and I'm not even sure it would be effective for a powerhouse like this.

Btw, thanks for your quick and helpful reply. I think I'm going to like it here.

 

I am not aware of any such battery that would have the necessary wattage.

It may not be the most favorable solution, but you may need to invest in and carry around a 2nd battery. Just remember you can just put it in Hibernate to swap the batteries, so it is a fast process and you will be right back the way you were.

 

Hello Paladin44!

Im Br and got a sister on USA, coming back on March 1.

I want to get a laptop (MSI or Sager) and probably will buy from PowerNotebooks.

I like much the NP8150 with Radeon 6990M, so I will make some questions and would be great if u or other members could help me!

1. Sager got just 1 HD, but 6990M. I will use for gaming and school. Sager (6990M) vs MSI (dual HD + 5770M)?

2. 8gb ram with 1600 is worth against 8 gb 1333? Can I buy separate RAM and upgrade to 12~16 without loosing my Guarantee?

3. Can I swith the DVD from a Blu-ray latter, if I buy separate?

4. Sager got better coling system vs MSI?

5. Is worth to get better Wireless Network, or just bull?

6. If I buy with Windows, it will count to get the 100$ discount for 1500$+?

7. Im on BR right now, and I need to pay from here. How can I do that without paying a lot of extra taxes?


Realy apreciate!

 

Well, if you're sure that is the case then it's news to me. Intel's own website says the 2670QM supports only 1066 and 1333 MHz memory speeds.

 

I looked up external batteries when I was planning my own laptop. There is a no-name brand 133 Wh (I think) external battery floating around that doesn't seem TOO expensive but it's friggin enormous. I think it was 27 cm long or something. There are other more reputable (probably) and smaller brands around but unless you're rolling in cash I don't think you'd be happy with the prices.

Because I value mobility I ended up getting a regular spare battery with my laptop. It's only 77 Wh and quite expensive but at least I have peace of mind when it comes to the battery not blowing up in my face or breaking after a week. That, and switching normal batteries seems simpler than plugging in a giant heavy box.

I saw the pad-style battery you were talking about somewhere on the internet the other day though. I didn't bother looking too much into it, seems a bit of a hassle.

 

1. That is tough choice...but you can overclock the nVIDIA GeForce GTX 570M w/1.5GB GDDR5 to virtually the same performance as the AMD Radeon HD 6990M 256bit w/2GB GDDR5 out of the box...but then you can overclock the 6990M so it will still beat the 570M. Then you have to decide how important having an internal Optical drive is to you, because if you move your Optical drive to an external, you can have two hard drives in the Sager NP8150 as well.

2. I would get the DDR3/1600 if it fits your budget. Yes, you can upgrade your RAM later without voiding your warranty.

3. Yes, you can upgrade to a Blu-ray drive later as well.

4. Both have excellent cooling systems

5. Unless you ISP gives you greater than 150Mb/s down, or you use your WiFi a lot to transfer data files between computers on your local WiFi network at home, school or office, there would be no point to a 300Mb/s or 450Mb/s card. It would be like buying a Ferrari to drive around the parking lot. The upgraded cards may give you a little bit more range, but for the same price you can get a WiFi extender that will double your range instead of giving you a few extra feet.

6. Yes, Windows 7 counts toward the $1,500.

7. email me that question. [email protected]

 

Intel's website has been wrong for over a year and they know it, but they refuse to change it even though several memory companies have proved that their DDR3/1600 and DDR3/1866 works just fine without any clock down or degradation of performance. Heck, the Intel site even says the Intel® i7-2630QM will only support 8GB, when we all know it will support 32GB.

Just look at all the sites, including Sager's, that offer it. Trust me, it works!

 

Hi there, guys...

The reseller I bought my notebook from sent a 120W power supple along with the notebook...

My build is a P151HM1 (although it should be a P150HM), with a 2720QM and a GTX560M

So, the GTX560M is a 75W TDP card and the i7-2720QM is a 45W processor... just them, alone, would consume the 120W the PSU is able to deliver, not to mention there's the screen, Wifi, and other stuff...

So, I heard the correct would be to ship this build with a 150W PSU, right?

If that's right, aand they just refuse to ship me one even after the shipped 120W one died last week, what PSU shhould I buy?

A quick search in eBay provided me with several models for HP, Sony and other manufacture's notebooks, but nothing mentioning compatibility with Clevos...

 

He shipped a 120W with the P150HM?

1. You aren't supposed to get a 120W adapter with the P150HM, you should have gotten a 180W.

2. He should send you the replacement if it is well within the year of purchase.

Who is this reseller?

 

If you ordered/have a P151HM1, you have the right power supply. It comes standard with a 120w. Only the P150HM version with the 100w GPU's (485/580/6970/6990) will come with the 180w. If your power supply has died, your retailer should be able to get you a replacement. The TDP ratings aren't necessarily accurate because that's Thermal Design Power for cooling purposes, not actual total power. Also keep in mind that the power supply does 120w continuous power, but it can peak higher than that. (and it will always draw more from the wall due to inefficiencies in conversion)

 

Forget about it, man. In Brazil almost no one takes this seriously. If the 120W can run a game and not explode in 30 minutes, they won't provide me a 150 or 180W PSU

It's actually a P151HM1, which came with a i7-2620M Engineering Sample... They replaced it with a i7-2720QM because of what happened (being an ES) ONLY BECAUSE I posted that on a Forum...
We are "forced"to buy from these resellers unless we spend more than US$3000,00

So, forget getting a new one from the reseller...

Can someone point me a good PSU that's compatible with the P150HM/P151HM1? I'm really in need of one.

 

^^

You are asking for a reseller in Brazil that would have a 180W AC Adapter?

 

That sounds horrible.

Oh and if it is the P151HM1, then you should have the 120W adapter.. my bad.

Many of the resellers here in the US sell parts, perhaps you could ask around the resellers for a quote?

 

If he needs one in Brazil, shipping just an AC Adapter, and then paying the brutal Brazilian customs, is going to be more expensive than the AC Adapter itself, and could be cost prohibitive.

 

Sounds like the money-hungry reseller will "sell" another 120W AC Adapter..?

Why don't you try telling him you're willing to buy the AC adapter?

 

I knew finding a secondary backup that would be a manageable size was probably a long shot. I'll prob just buy a second battery like you, that brick is just gonna have to sit in the car. The whole purpose of getting this over a flashy Alienware is that it looks professional and not like a gaming toy, which is defeated if I have to whip out the huge adapter in class. Oh well, at least my classes only last an hour and a half, so I should be okay as long as I switch out in between. Thanks for the input

 

Arrrrgh, looks like my P150HM isn't going to be here before I leave next Wednesday?! Not happy.

 

No, I can buy from US...

Will try that.

Actually not, the tax is 60% over the price of the product and as long as its cost is under $50, there's no tax.

DId that and he offered me a 130W part for an absurd price.

 

That must suck bad.

 

Does that mean even non-Kingston HyperX PnP 1600MHz RAM modules (ordinary ones) work with the 2670QM outright?

 

Yes, the plug-and-play models have been demonstrated to work great. Just make sure you don't try using XMP RAM by mistake

 

What I meant were the NON-Kingston models i.e. Samsung 1600MHz kits. Do they work at 1600MHz outright with the 2670QM?

 

Right, and I was saying yes, as long as they are Plug-and-Play (JEDEC) 1600Mhz, they should work. The only ones that won't would be the XMP RAM which requires overclocking. Kingston just seems to be the most common.

 

Oh ok. I think this is new info, right? Because at the time when I was buying back in December 2011, many resellers were saying that the 2630QM or 2670QM wouldn't support anything greater than 1333MHz?

I already tried 2 kits of 2x4GB Kingston HyperX PnP 1600MHz right now, and both are having errors in Memtest86+ and HCI Design Memtest. Is this a common problem for users of the NP8130/NP8150?

 

Woot. Long time lurker. Finally ordered a NP8150. Have heard good things about it! ^_^

__________________
XOTIC PC - SAGER NP8150
| 15.6" FHD Matte-Type | Intel® Core™ i7-2630QM | nVIDIA® GeForce GTX 560M | 8GB 1333MHz | 160GB SSD |

 

Congrats on your order dannomite!
Happy to hear the NBR forums helped you pick a new computer. So much great information on here.

 

Which Plug-and-Play (JEDEC) RAM kits does Sager/Clevo offer as of the moment?

 

Other than the Intel SSD drives and the Seagate Hybrid drives, Sager/Clevo does not advertise what brand RAM or HDD they use as they do not want to be locked into supporting any one particular brand. They could be using anything, but they certainly make sure it works before it gets sent out.

 

Hi guys,

I would like to know what are the best options to imporve/tweak the cooling system on a 8150 (besides using a notebook cooler).
The options I thought about are:

1. replace thermal paste (It came with IC7 almost 1 year ago, time to repaste?)
2. add more copper on the heatpipes (any links and models that would work?)

Any other ideas are welcome... thanks!

 

Undervolting. Simply the best way to bring temps down for the GPU without a doubt.

 

well... undervolting means less performance too? Any more info on that? how I can do it etc?
I would like a more physical approach to cool it down...

 

As of lately, the Sager is using the SAMSUNG brand (not sure of the model number).

For the 1866Mhz, the Kingston HyperX Plug n Play is used.

_

 

Yes, undervolting will lower the performance to get lower temps. It's not as dangerous as overclocking, but it could void your warranty if you manage to damage the card. Here's a thread with more info:

http://forum.notebookreview.com/har...arket-upgrades/235824-undervolting-guide.html

For lowering temps, the best solutions are 1) repaste with IC Diamond or Arctic Silver, 2) prop up the rear of the machine, and 3) play on a hard surface or cooling pad.

 

Thanks.

@all

Is there a way to increase DIMM voltage with this laptop?

 

thanks for the tips. Undervolting is not my thing...

 

Yes! Laptop arrived in Adelaide, actually made it to the depot this morning at 0730, but I'm not allowed to pick it up till tomorrow after 10am... Funny. Oh well, quite happy it's made it before I go away for work. Will try and post a quick first impressions tomorrow, but it may have to wait till I get back from the work trip.

 

^ awesome! Mine comes in tomorrow also but I got work until 9 p.m :/

 

Mine comes in tomorrow too. Its going to be a long day waiting till 5PM to go home and play with it. Especially since it is getting shipped to my work and is going to be sitting here next to my desk all day.

 

Has anyone found a good neoprene case or anything like that for the 8150? I'd like to give it a little more protection before putting it in my backpack.

 

Any 16" case should work for it. It's best to just shop based on reviews and trying them out (if possible). Some tend to be rather thin and don't offer much protection, but it's hard to tell unless you get to try it in person. I have a generic 16" sleeve for mine that works great and lets me keep the case covered when it's in my bag or being moved around.

 

Do any owners notice their PSU making a loud high pitch screetching noise?

 

High pitched yes...screeching no. If it is really screeching I would get help from your vendor.

 

Yeah it's very noticeable. Only seems to come on when the screen goes off when left for a while. Like a very noticeable ramp up in a squealing high pitched noise?

 

That is not right. I would definitely contact your vendor for a warranty replacement.

 

Is there a way to check which screen model I got without actually taking it out?