*** Official Sager NP8150/Clevo P150HM Owners Lounge ***

hmm loose contact? faulty cable insulation? id keep an eye on that and maybe consult ur reseller since i presume its still inside warranty right?

Sent from my GT-I9001 using Tapatalk 2

 

No, warranty expired... I guess. Bought it last year in May from Xotic PC but I live in Europe so shipping it back would cost more than a new one .
For the moment the sound stopped... just unlpugged it and kept it a while like that + blowing some thin layer of dust...

If I have to buy a new one... which would it be? The 90W one? I have a GTX485m

 

Damn....

I'll sign your petition later, if the website understands I dont live in USA...

 

definitely the 180W one, the 485M alone already draws 100W on load

why should that be a problem? i dont live there either ^^

 

cool, thanks.
If any of the european resellers read this thread I would like you to get in touch with me . Already sent a PM to MySN.de

 

For some reason, it said my Post Code wasn't being recognized... it's fine now. Signed =)

 

Serious trouble here.

My p150hm screen seems to have stop working. I was rendering a movie from after effects and came to check on the progress after an hour or so and my laptop was completely off. The orange button that says its plugged in to power (I don't use my battery) was off and the blue light on the charger was off. Unconnecting the charger from the laptop made the blue light on the charger turn on. I then inserted my battery unplugged all ports and plugged the charger back in then turned on the computer. After around 10 seconds it started beeping periodically in time with the blue LEDs above the keyboard. There was no display.

I turned it off, took at the battery again and this time turned it on with only the charger. After an hour of fiddling I learned that it is powering up to the login screen and I can login successfully. Only the display seems to be in trouble. My knowledge of keyboard shortcuts is all I have to navigate the interface. I am able to shut it down using [windows key, right, right, ENTER], I can put it to sleep, use various hotkeys (fn + f1-10) including turning on and off wireless, fn+1 to turn my fans to max speed etc (however fn-f7 to toggle external displays is not working).

I tried using my external monitor but the switch screens hotkey (fn-f7) isn't doing the trick. Perhaps if I succesfully managed to navigate through the screen resolution window on windows 7 blindly I would be able to change the display but usually the fn-f7 hotkey works just after startup (It doesn't always work especially after the machine has been running for a while).

I have less than 1 month left on my 1 year warranty. Perhaps someone recalls my many posts over the last year where I had application crashes and occasional blue screen issue from the first day I received the laptop. I don't know if this is connected or whether the cause is the result of hardware or my OS. I do know that I have been absolutely avoiding sending back my laptop because it would cause me massive stress and headache and I can hardly survive without it.

I know this is quite a ramble as a result of the stress this is causing me. Can anyone give me some guidance or advice?

If you need more information to help I will give you whatever I can with my limited technical knowledge.

EDIT: I spoke with my reseller and I'm posting it to them tomorrow. Fingers crossed it all goes smoothly and doesn't take too long.

Thank you.

 

yup, was just about to say with only one month of warranty left: THIS is the time to send in ur laptop and get all the glitches errors and whatnot ironed out. its definitely worth the wait/stress/headaches involved with it, otherwise ud have to invest in a completely new machine

 

Seriously high temp when playing battlefield 3
When I play battlefield 3 ( nothing else is running ) on my laptop my CPU reaches 92c and CPU utilization around 50% , but the gpu temp is ok at low 80s ( 6990m) .I used the laptop for less than 5 months . I checked the heat sink fins and there were no dust . I tried Fn+1 for max fan speed but still reaches hight 80c .
Do you think if I changed the stock thermal paste it will solve the problem ?? Or there are other causes for this hight temps

 

reapplying paste will most likely sove your issues, especially since youve checked for dust/clogging and misalignments already.

 

yup, what he said ^^

 

Good news everyone (somewhat good news), Sager just posted this:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/sag...ates-clevo-hm-model-series-8.html#post8580162

 

anybody tried the 12.6 betas out yet? OMG they are amazing, can OC my 6990m now to 840/1000 with slight UV to 1.07v instead of my old OC of 830/1000 @ 1.1v. I know it's only 10Mhz but how can a driver potentially improve my OC results? Due to UV my GPU even gets now only to 92 °C instead of 95 °C (using MX-4 and yeah my 6990m is like superhot).

Just tested TERA with those drivers and yeah i got a slight fps boost and get now arround 50-60fps with ingame Max + 1080p and 2xAA.

Really i'm pretty impressed with those driverset

 

Has anyone tested the AMD card ? Links, videos ? thank you

 

I had the issue several times, also on battery and ac, rebooting did it for me. Next time i´ll try closing and opening the lid.

Since i have an amd gpu, we can not blame some nvidia drivers (as someone recently suggested)...

BTW: 1st post, big "Hello" to the forum!

 

Welcome to the NBR forums!

Yeah, the closing and opening lid trick may work. Just be sure your Power Options are configured properly for the closing lid action.

Also, can't we just blame the nVidia drivers anyways? It seems easier to blame that.

 

Hi Guys,

I have a question. I'm certain this was addressed before, but i was hoping anyone here could point me to a thread or guide on how to overclock my gtx 580m, changing voltages etc. A detailed guide would be appreciated coz i'm kind of a noob at this.

I ask this now because i wanted to squeeze the max i can get out of my card so that i can hold off on upgrading to a 7970 ( btw, thanks to everyone here who made that possible) or the 680m (whenever it comes out and if it is compatible).

Thanks in advance for your help guys

 

MSI afterburner is all you need to OC, just drag the sliders to the right and test. Save to a profile and set up hotkeys if you want. You also use the graph of temp to see how hot it gets.

Kombustor or similar to initially test your OC. Then games

I got my 580M up to 760/1775 which is a good 15-20% increase but it goes >90C in kombustor. But its a beast regardless so I mostly use it at stock or when needed a 680/1650 profile. So I haven't found the desire to bios flash and overvolt.

 

Hi All, sorry if this has been asked before but 482 pages is a bit much to try to filter through.

Once in a while my display brightness gets stuck on max and won't respond to any of the function keys. Needs a reboot to clear this issue. Anyone else have this problem/know the cause or a fix? Thanks!

 

Is your very issue the same one discussed a whole 4-5 posts above... :/ I am quoted from months ago with what fixes it for me

 

Anyone has a suggestion for a screen replacement on p150hm?

I have the LG Philips LP156WF1, and my issue is that the viewing angles are kinda bad in terms of retaining the same brightness even in small angles. So when I'm leaning on the left, the right part of the screen gets darker (or it loses contrast? idk), and this is tiring for my eyes.

Thanks in advance.

 

discussion here amongst many others:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/sager-clevo/578125-require-opinions-screen-auo-b156hw01-v-4-a.html

I got the 95% matte (v4) which is hands down best TN screen I've ever seen on a laptop. v7 is the 95% glossy. AUOB156HW01 v5 was in my old G51J - was a great gaming laptop screen for colours and refresh, but had a black level that was distinctly grey on highest brightness. That's after disconnecting the silly lid lights that shone through it as well.

Ask whoever you got it from first if they can do the swap if your unit's still under warranty. LogicalBlueOne here in Australia does after sales support like this which is why they have really good rep.

 

Just got my hands on some Prolimatech PK-1 thermal paste and would like to repaste my 8150 .
Any recommandations on how to apply it? Just one drop in the middle, make an X, sides? .

Also for the GPU does it make sense to remove the cooler of the memory too? They have thermal pads on them... I guess thermal paste won't help there.

Thanks!

 

I remember reading a review where all the styles were compared. Think the 'blob in middle let the HSF spread it for you' method gave best coverage with least pockets of air. You should find it quick on google.

 

yep, saw that video but I thought for notebook CPU`s might be different .

As for the GPU, again, I don't have to remove the heatsink of the memory, right?

 

nope, u can just leave the vRAM heatsink, less hassle when repasting ur gpu

 

Cool, just re-pasted . Bought the 8150 last year in may with IC7 on it and I guess it was about time to change it.

After I removed the heatsinks not much of the old paste was there... and it was rock solid.

Before that temps were about 86C after 10min of Furmark, now max temp is 79C under same conditions (GTX 485M). And this is a couple of minutes after re paste... might be dropping even more after curing...

I higlhy recommend Prolimatech PK-1

 

good stuff mate! with OCZ freeze i max out at 81C OCed after 20 min of furmark with my GTX485M

 

Anyone put a 7970m in their NP8150 yet? I'm thinking about breathing new life into my somewhat retired beast.

 

still trying to get my hands on one through mythlogic,seems like theyre a bit slow with the invoice

Sent from my GT-I9001 using Tapatalk 2

 

With all the problems I've been hearing about with Enduro, this seems to be a better option than buying a new laptop. I don't particularly need a back-lit keyboard or an IB processor. Our 2860QM's are still quite overkill for games and what not.

 

What's Enduro?

 

word! our beasts still have 1-2 very good years in them

AMD's version of Nvidia's optimus automatic gpu switching.

Sent from my GT-I9001 using Tapatalk 2

 

I have a strange problem after updating to 12.6 driver for my 6990m . Every thing become distorted when I scroll or Switch between windows then return to normal , I have tested the card with OC Scanner X for 2 h with no artifacts . Do you think it's software or hardware related ??

 

check and see if the problem persists when u switch to either 12.5 or 12.7 beta drivers. if thats not the case then ull know if its software-related

 

I tried 12.7 have the same problem .but when I returned to 12.4 the problem disappeared !
Why AMD drivers are so bad ?
I have a PC with 480 SLI and when I update the drivers it's either the same or better . but I can't say the same thing to even a single AMD card.

 

I was having the same problem too. I had to reinstall windows to fix it. I'm using the 12.7 beta's now.

 

Hey everyone,

So, I've owned my 8150 since 3/2010 and am now looking to sell it and build a desktop since this has mostly remained stationary. I was wondering what sort of price tag I should associate with my configuration.

My setup:
Display: 15.6” Full HD 16:9 LED-Backlit Super Clear
Zero Dead Pixel Insurance: None
Video & Graphics Card: nVidia GeForce GTX 485M with 2GB GDDR5
CPU Processor: Intel® Core™ i7-2720QM (6M Cache, 2.20 GHz)
Thermal Compound: IC Diamond Thermal Compound - CPU + GPU
Operating System: Windows 7 Ultimate x64
Memory: 16GB DDR3 1333 (4x4GB)
Primary Hard Disk Drive: 500GB 7200rpm SATA 300 Hard Drive
Secondary HDD: Western Digital Scorpio Black WD5000BEKT 500GB 7200 RPM 16MB Cache 2.5" SATA 3.0Gb/s (in optical bay)
Wireless Network Card: Intel® Centrino® Advanced-N 6230 - 802.11a/b/g/n*
Primary Battery: 8 cells smart Lithium-Ion battery pack 76.96Wh
TV-Tuner: None
Integrated Security Device: Integrated Fingerprint Reader
Microsoft Office: None
Warranty: 3 Year Labor and 1 Year Premium Parts Warranty

Some things were upgraded, for example it had 8GB but I upgraded to 16GB, optical drive was replaced with 500gb hard drive, and Windows 7 Ultimate x64 was installed. These changes are noted in the specs up above, just pointing it out in case it doesn't match my sig.
No issues, mint condition, and well taken care of. Adult owner in a smoke-free kid-free home. Invoiced price was $2,049. I'm not asking for offers on here, I know that's against the rules. I'm simply asking what you guys think it may be worth today so I have some idea of what to post it for on eBay or the like.

 

well i for one always go for the rule of thumb: about 50% loss in value every 12 months, when it comes to computer hardware.

thus id probably expect around a thousand bucks in ur case (+/- 200)

cheers

 

Iirc the hm series was only available q1 2011 and not 2010.
But I agree with the price mentioned above.

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

 

You are correct, for what ever reason, the invoice shows it as 2010 instead of 2011. It was purchased 1/2011 and shipped to me on 3/2011. The delay was caused by the eSATA recall.

 

Hey gang. Anyone have recommendation on a smaller PSU for traveling purposes? I am not worried about powering gpu enough for gaming or anything. Just looking for one that is substantially lighter than the stock one. Thanks

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2

 

kensington usually offer very compact universal PSUs,just google them





Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

 

A 90W one for an Asus G51J should work. Ebay, 20 bucks posted from china. I got one for my gutted G51J-turned-HTPC and charged the battery on my P150HM once. It was off at the time though, I wasn't keen on finding whether auto-shutoff happened by design or by flame+smoke+melting.

The 120W that came with the G51J (which I know can do 180W since I reached that when testing the un-throttled G51J) sits on my work desk and works fine. Not that I've tried of course... but it shuts off occasionally when gaming at full cpu speed and clocks. If I game at either CPU locked to 2.4GHz, or GPU downclocked to 3/4 speeds, it works fine.

 

How low can we go while being able to surf or watch a movie using a video accelerated program like cyberlink power dvd 11? For example, will a 65 watt be too low?

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

 

65W might cut it a bit close, i would go with at least 75w or better 90 then u should definitely be fine and able to work indefinitely when plugged in

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

 

Thanks, I'll get a mini 90w brick

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

 

I've started to monitor my GPU and CPU temps lately, as they've felt too hot. The results are quite scary, as the CPU cores idles in the high 50s/low 60s, and during stress I'm reaching high 90s (core temps at 96-99) for the CPU, while the GPU is idling at about 70 and during stress reached 103 degrees. The stress test temps are at that level when maxing the fan speed (FN+1).

To me, this is way too hot, and I'm wondering what I could do to bring it down to more acceptable levels (chopping off 5-10 degrees celcius or so). Is it worth trying to repaste, or would a laptop cooler be a simpler solution?

Some additional info:
CPU: Intel 2720QM
GPU: AMD Radeon 6970M
Airflow should be decent (nothing is blocking any of the vents) and the fans are clean.

 

Open it up underneath and blow out all the dust and dirt that has accumulated if you haven't lately. I (and many others) do this regularly, and my temps are still right about where they were when I bought it early last year. Then check the temps, you should see a significant drop. If you have already done this, or do it and the temps don't drop, then probably time for repaste.

 

Urk, I thought it was pretty clean, but after finding som canned air and blowing the vents, my idles dropped greatly (CPU at 37-48, GPU at 45-55). I'll be cheking out the stress temps, and if they're ok I guess it's solved.
Thanks alot

Edit: Reaching high 70s during stress. Once again, thanks alot!