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Set Speed Shift EPP to 0, or disable Speed Shift.

 

Disabled Speed Shift. Ran Cinebench again, no clocks higher than 3.9 Ghz

Power package doesn't exceed 66w.

 

Update. I set multiplier at 40x & rebooted. Now my clock sits at a min of 4286 and a max of 4591 (all cores). Max temp is 79°C. Max power package is 89w. Cinebench score is 1352. Firestrike: 19154.

AIDA64 + Unigine Valley Extreme (max power 95,64w, CPU max 94°C, but mostly bounces to 89°C and back; GPU 75°C with 100mhz OC). I'll try to undervolt some more.

Update 2. I run all cores now at a conservative but steady 4.3 Ghz with -110mV undervolt. Max AIDA64 stress test temperatures are 87°C on two cores, 84°C on the rest. Cinebench score is now 1369.

I was especially afraid of my gtx1080 temps, but it stays surprisingly cool. I'll get back in the next days if I manage to do some extensive Witcher 3 playing.

 

Have you pushed the undervolt a little more at 4.3?

 

At -120mV now. AIDA64 hits a maximum of 83°C for the cpu. AIDA64 + Valley steadily increases cpu temps to 91°C, yet the gpu stays at 65°C. If I turn AIDA off and continue Valley, gpu temps rise to 70-75°C. Does running both benchmarks at the same time power starve the gpu? What's the most demanding benchmark for the gpu? I've yet to see it >80°C...

 

Looks like running both at the same time causes the CPU to bottleneck the GPU. Try Witcher 3 to stress the GPU, or Battlefield 1 multiplayer to stress both CPU and GPU.

 

3D does need at least a little horsepower for frame setup

 

After an hour of Witcher my CPU temp is max. 85°C, GPU max 79°C (that's with an 100mhz overclock), max total power draw is 72w. I'm still surprised with the relatively low GPU temps and high (but not alarming) CPU temps. Mind you, I haven't been to Novigrad yet

 

So far, my experience with overclocking the i5-8600k is kinda strange. I could get it to work at 4.8Ghz stable, though it would still go automatically back to 4.6Ghz for some reason. Also, the voltage values don't correspond to the actual voltage, which seems to be a thing about SpeedStep technology, which if I disable, disables Turbo Boost. Gotta read about that a little bit more.

The memory for me doesn't want to be overclocked at all. I'm still trying to figure it out, but so far no results. I got a Kingston Impact 2400Mhz single stick, which supports XMP, but if I'm tinkering with voltage or clocks in XTU, just doesn't want to boot my laptop anymore after the restart. And I have to reset BIOS every time, or, to be precise, try to reset it, because I need ~20 restarts with FN+D before actually resetting the BIOS. Any help on this would be really appreciated.

 

72W is for the CPU alone, right? What settings and FPS are you getting in Witcher 3, and what are your CPU/GPU clock speeds during it?

 

What does Limit Reasons in ThrottleStop say when it drops to 4.6? Remember that this laptop only shows VID (Voltage Identification Definition, the voltage the CPU requests from the VRM), it doesn't have a sensor to measure Vcore (the actual voltage going to the CPU). The actual Vcore going to the CPU is often times much lower than the nominal VID, especially under load, since this motherboard seems to have a massive amount of Vdroop, up to 160mV I reckon, if Loadline Calibration is disabled by setting Core/IA AC Loadline to 1 in the CPU VR settings of an unlocked BIOS.

You probably have to relax timings a bit when overclocking the memory, since IIRC those HyperX sticks have pretty tight timings out of the box.

 

Yes, 72w is for the CPU. Witcher is everything maxed at FHD (HBAO+, Hairworks max, etc.). Frames are between 68 and 90, depending on the scene. I haven't been able to get RTSS to work with witcher yet (OSD doesn't show, so I've used the steam overlay to count fps). CPU clock remains locked and steady at 4.3 ghz. Can't comment on GPU clock fluctuations until I get RTSS to work... :-/

 

Ok, now I see, what is the value of the voltage. What I didn't mention, is by "dropping to 4.6" I meant the rollback of settings. So, it's like I'm testing the 4.8 and after some time, I go back to XTU to check parameters and see, that it rollbacked to previous profile with 4.6. But there were no freezes or BSoDs, it just goes back on its own.

Yeah, it's pretty tight already (14-14-14-35), but I couldn't understand, why it doesn't boot if I just increased voltage and didn't touch anything else.

 

Try using ThrottleStop or BIOS instead of XTU.

It could be that your RAM doesn't like the higher voltage for whatever reason.

 

Thank you! I'll try these methods. Wish, I could install PREMA BIOS though.

 

Does RTSS work in other games?

 

It works now through HWinfo's OSD. Average fps is around 78. GPU clock fluctuates between mid-1800s lows to 1974mhz. GPU temps never exceed 75°C. I do get a GPU performance limit: power; reliability voltage; and utilization warning, though, in HWinfo. This is with a straightforward 125mhz core and memory overclock.

 

I have no idea how you guys are getting lower temps. I'm running myself into a wall trying to figure it out.

 

Very nice. Those performance limits are normal. What's the measured GPU Power while playing?

I've been playing BF1 recently and I'm getting pretty high CPU temps like you. In CPU heavy maps, like Giant's Shadow around C point, my 8600K peaks at almost 90C with max fans. Since your 8700K has Hyper-Threading, which adds more heat, I'm not surprised it gets close to 100C. BF1 is just a really CPU heavy game, I regularly see 110W package power (higher than in stress tests) and 100% usage on all cores at just 120 FPS, which bottlenecks my GTX 1080.

 

GPU power fluctuates constantly between min 150w max 197w, mostly 175-185w. With some more precise benching: gpu clock averages around 1923mhz and FPS is closer to 85 (still not in Novigrad!). My cpu max temp remains 74°C @locked 4,3Ghz; gpu max temp is 75°C. It takes AIDA + Valley or Heaven to push cpu & gpu above 85°C.

Note that I do use Obsidian fan control's 'extreme' fans, so they are loud!

@m4gg0t how is your Firestrike score, how are your temps there?

 

Is your GPU clock lower in AIDA+Heaven?

BTW don't you get big FPS drops when HairWorks is on? Like standing next to a wall with Geralt's hair pressed up against the camera, I've seen it drop below 60.

 

1923 boost clock is very decent.

 

Finally put an end to this question. G-sync works with ES CPU.

 

By you or...?
And more important: How?

 

@aaronne, This picture is from my laptop, with a processor of my friend. (QN8G - 8700k ES) Now I can calmly look for the same for myself.

 

No, my GPU clock remains at a stable 1936mhz in AIDA+Heaven, at max 73°C (max 190w @1.063v), but mostly between 65-71°C. CPU temps increase to max 93°C though!

Snapshot:



I'll have to look into the Hairworks performance drop, min fps was 58 during my run

 

Your GPU temps are probably the best I've seen yet on a P7 system. Your CPU is pretty toasty though, assuming you've undervolted and haven't increased the power limits.

 

CPU undervolt is at -100mv atm, I'll try to increase it some more.

 

The journey toward 20K Firestrike...

 

Those points do get harder and harder to get to.

 

Hey guys, I was looking to see if I could get some help. So today I changed my settings in the BIOS to turn on Fast Boot and when I did that saved the settings and exited, there was only a black screen left. It still boots to Windows I think, because I can max out the fans with Fn+1 and I can toggle Num Lock, but I just can't see anything. Fn+D didn't work and unplugging the CMOS battery for over 10 minutes didn't work either, there's still a black screen all the way through. Even booting with the battery unplugged has a black screen. Any advice?

 

Can you please plug an external monitor into your laptop via HDMI or displayport and then report back?

1) if it posts into bios with the external monitor
2) if it boots into windows.

Thank you.

 

Hi, check PM.

 

@Papusan @Mr. Fox @bloodhawk @Prema @Meaker@Sager @Johnksss

Can someone please help him?
I tried but everything he did gave a black screen.
He even removed the CMOS battery and it didn't help.

No one has ever had this happen before?

 

Unlocked or locked bios?

 

He @iRoxas could try...

1. Remove cmos battery. Wait a few sec and then put it in again.
2. Turn on the system and wait for 2 minutes.
3. Press Enter 3 times. The system will turn off for a little bit and then turn on again. As soon as it turns on (screen will be black so do not wait for the logo), start pressing F2. Keep on pressing for about 20-30 seconds.
4. Now Press :
- 2 x left arrow
- 1 x up arrow
- 1 x enter
- 1 x down
- 1 x enter
- 1 x up arrow
- 1 x enter
- 1 x F4
- 1 x enter
5. This time once the system reboots, the Bios Logo should appear and you should be able to go into the BIOS and change to you usual settings.

Edit. Try the same again if he can't fix it with first try.

 

I'm in the BIOS, thank you! I did the keystrokes in the BIOS now and I think that enables CSM, is that what it was supposed to do? I'm never enabling fast boot again haha.
Don't know how the 3x Enter thing worked tho, hmm.

 

CSM is some sort of thing that fast boot skips, from what little I know, relating to booting with older operating systems or with a legacy vs UEFI Bios. Some people had problems with certain video cards not getting a display out as their video vbios was incompatible.

 

And to add to @Papusan 's excellent instructions...

You can power on the laptop holding FN+D, then turn it off while still holding. Then power back on and wait about 8 seconds or so, then let go. This should also get you in the bios when the normal method has trouble.

(Sometimes people do not want to take out the screws to get to the cmos battery.)

 

I've used Fn+D before and it worked fine, but in this case when I used it, it didn't work, so I'm glad I was able to do another method.

 

I guess the question now would be.....Did it actually work before and you only needed the keystrokes to get in.....

I just tested it (Fast boot) on a P870TM1 (1080N-SLI) and it disables CSM, but unfortunately it still booted.

 

What I did when I only got a black screen was hold Fn+D, power it on, and then wait. It didn't reboot or anything, and when I powered it off and on it still had a black screen, so I guess that didn't work.

I have an Obsidian-PC BIOS so maybe fast boot doesn't work on it? Not really sure, I have the latest Windows 10 and everything.

 

Fast Boot skips loading some things during POST, so perhaps that BIOS mod has something critical that gets skipped over during POST. The behavior you encountered is similar to what @Papusan and I experienced during various alpha and beta phases of the Prema BIOS mod to get 8700K working on the P870DM-G/Z170 chipset. The final version no longer has that issue, but we had to do many thing blindly as his instructions were outlined to you because of not having any display output with CSM enabled. Only GOP worked at first, and later on @Prema got VGA working as well. It may also be that the BIOS you have does not support CSM/VGA, and enabling Fast Boot turns on CSM and enables VGA.

If the BIOS mod that you have does not support CSM/VGA, then the Fast Boot menu option and the CSM enable options should be hidden to avoid anyone from having this issue in the future. Just think how desperate the situation might have been had Brother @Papusan not seen the post and provided those instructions. Those instructions forced defaults with CSM disabled and clearing CMOS the normal way does not apply those settings as the default values.

If the dolts at Micro$lop had their way, there would be no systems anywhere that support CSM/VGA because that would force the use of Windows 10. Many versions of Linux also require CSM support like Windows 7 and you wouldn't have any choice in the matter of what OS to use.

 

When enabling Fast boot. It sets everything to UEFI mode and then you also need to set Secure Boot to enabled.

Your laptop should have been fine with that unless it's missing something in the bios or the vbios. Speculations of course.

 

I enabled Secure Boot and Fast Boot right before I got the black screen and wasn't able to do anything, so I guess there's a problem with it. I think I'll just enable Secure Boot by itself for now. Maybe John@OBSIDIAN-PC could do some testing on one of the machines he has in order to see what causes the issue. Hopefully I did a mention right, never done it before.

 

I think Secure Boot is the culprit. I just enabled it and now there's no video again.

 

Now that is interesting....

On the next try, (Should you try to investigate) examine all the Secure Boot options with in that section of the menu. See if anything looks out of place.

 

What do you have on the Boot menu selections?