*** Official Sager NP9175 / Clevo P775TM Owner's Lounge! ***

It's not the metal between 8000 and 9000 but the silicon wafer itself. Having a thicker metal makes little difference as it's very conductive.

 

I've been eyeballing the P775TM from HIDevolution, but have been trying to decide on a LCD panel. I have heard that viewing 1080p content on a 4k panel looks worse than viewing it on a native 1080p panel, but I don't know how true that is. Since the majority of the content I would be viewing would be 1080p, with the exception of certain games, and I could always connect to a 4k monitor if I wanted to have an immersive gaming session, I was thinking of getting 1080p. And, I doubt I'd encounter much native 1440p content.

From a cost perspective, I'm sure people would recommend the 1080p to me since it seems I don't need or wouldn't miss 4k. However, I'm curious, if price was removed as a factor, does my logic make sense? Is there any reason I should consider the 1440p or 4k options?

For reference, the available panels are:

17.3" Full HD (1920x1080) 144Hz~9ms IPS-level 72% NTSC Matte Type Display - w/ nVIDIA® G-SYNC™ Technology
17.3" 3K QHD (2560x1440) AUO 120Hz - 5ms - LED Matte Type Display (AUO B173QTN01.0)
17.3" 3K QHD (2560x1440) AUO 120Hz - 5ms - LED Matte Type Display (AUO B173QTN01.4)
17.3" 4K QFHD (3840x2160) AUO LED Matte Type Display - with nVIDIA® G-SYNC™ Technology

 

1080p 144hz monitor is the best balance of speed for gaming and clarity for content viewing.

 

For gaming either that or the B173QTN01.4
The 98% Adobe RGB 4K AUO is great if you do professional video/photo editing as your main task and scales well for the occasional gaming at 1080P, but its framerate is limited to 60Hz.

 

I think it also depends on the type of games you play. For me a high refresh screen is a must for shooters. I still have a bad habit of turning everything on lowest and editing config files, even with a gtx1080, to get highest possible frames.

 

That is a bad habit, overclock instead

 

Oh but I do that too

 

But the FPS is not enough so more

 

i just bought the eurocom sky x7c which is the same laptop i think, sorry i came over from AW

when choosing the panel i remembered how bad gsync battery life is so decided AGAINST gsync pane (RTX 2080 is pushing over 144hz @Max settings, join the debate can the human eye see the difference between 100hz and 166? its subjective but for me defo no).

then i considered how tiny the details where on the 2140x1440p 17" panel, ok if you got the screen right next to your face but who does that, theres a great comparison by linus on youtube that show when you sit even 2 feet away from the screen the human eye cannot see the difference between 4 and 2k so i decided to go with fps which was the 1080p 144 hz panel. 4k scales well on this panel if you want to make things sharper, not sure about the reverse tho.

at home i have an external 3440x1440 omen x35 and bo4 everything on max settings i get 90fps, it i turn down a few things like motion bluer and shadows i get 100hz which is panel max. COD WW2 @ max i get 100hz.

im glad i went with this panel, it was the best choice and was also the cheapest!

paying more does not mean you get more if you cannot use it.

 

As this laptop does not support Optimus anyway (iGPU is not even powered), G-Sync or no G-Sync makes no difference on battery life.

 

let me put it this way,

1) alienware 17 R5 laptop, i had no optimus and a gsync panel (permanent), fps high. battery life was poor @ 99w/h (mobile HW).
2) sky x7c, i have no optimus and no gsync . fps high. battery life better @ 89w/h (desktop grade HW).

so as an owner of both units i can say subjectively YES, gsync makes a difference on battery life.

do you see my point?

 

Not an apples to apples comparison as they are different systems and power management settings. Notebook G-Sync is a software based solution and does not have a significant impact on power draw.

 

EXACTLY my point which you missed again.

the unit with the MOBILE OPTIMIZED HW with BIGGER battery AND gsync is getting beaten by a unit with FULL DESKTOP POWER HUNGRY HW with a SMALLER battery and WITHOUT gsync.

optimus DOES NOT EVEN COME INTO IT so idk why you mentioned that as its not a factor in either unit? point scoring/ idk it looks that way to me!

im just saying to the guy who is choosing a new panel IMHO go without gsync as it CLEARLY drains the battery FAST! SUBJECTIVELY SPEAKING AS AN OWNER OF THE MENTIONED UNITS WHERE THE ONE WITH THE DESKTOP HW DOES BETTER WITH SMALLER BATTERY THAN THE ONE WITH GYSNC WITH HALF THE TDP!!!!!

ok im done.

 

Notebookcheck reviews paint a completely different picture. In the same battery life test, the X7C lasted for 2h, while the AW 17R5 lasted for 3h 38m, which is over 80% longer. (Both units have G-Sync, which again has no impact on battery life as it's software).

https://www.notebookcheck.net/Euroc...op-Review.413719.0.html#toc-energy-management

https://www.notebookcheck.net/Alien...top-Review.329084.0.html#toc-power-management

 

Yes the desktop units can last a surprising time if you get them set right but even just the desktop chipset consumes more at idle.

The parts used around the chips certainly matter too.

 

SUBJECTIVELY!!!!

the two units that i have, in my possesion right now.

do you have these?

have you tested?

why do you always need to be right?

 

Battery life is objectively measurable. I was just clearing up misinformation / misleading statement.

 

Let's see a combined knowledge as a reseller, personal owner of mobile/desktop systems and being an electrical/electronic engineer.

It's also pretty obvious I'm afraid.

 

you understand what subjectively means?

in my opinion, view, and what i see with these units side by side is the gsync unit dying first.

so tell me again that the information im sharing is not true!

 

Then you had a setting wrong or a faulty unit.

Facts dont care about feelings.

 

THIS is the response i waited on, at last, welcome to the conversation.

 

So after 10 months of using my laptop, gpu temperatures which were very good at the beginning (often staying below 80°C when gaming) now rapidly increase to 90°C, leading to bsod and/or freezing my pc completely. Running Heaven or any graphically intensive benchmark quickly leads to a freeze/bsod. Underclocking the gpu doesn't affect the temperature rise.

I tried turning off Afterburner (which had only a mild overclock/undervolt), throttlestop, Obsidian fan control, reinstalling drivers, etc. to rule out software as the culprit. I guess it's either a problem with the LM paste or with the 1080 itself. I would be surprised if it was the LM because I've handled the laptop with care, it worked great from the start, and LM doesn't degenerate that quickly.

Before sending it back to the reseller I wanted to check with you if there's any other test or trick I can do?

 

It's summer, so higher ambient temps might play a role.

But I'd check the LM application and also see whether the heatsinks are gunked up with dust etc.
Also, if it's the first LM application, it probably bonded with the copper over time, so applying a new coat should fix it.

 

I still do this too ever since the days of the original Quake. I try to pick the best lowest detail level and fps to clearly identify the hapless victims.

 

Oh man, that's funny! I got my habit from Q3 and it stayed with me throughout the years. And as you pointed out, less clutter also helps with gameplay. Not as immersive, but who cares about that stuff

 

Then you shouldn't advise someone to get the non-gsync panel for what you deem a subjective measure that is not rooted in objective testing, because that would not be based on facts, and therefore not be a good recommendation, as bolded and underlined below:

 

New bios is available v1.07.25

Fastest Customizable Gaming Notebooks & Mobile Workstations | CLEVO System Integrator

 

Im getting this Current Limit Exceeded issue where my CPU clocks fluctuate. i have PL1 @ 200w and PL2 and 250w but it still happens. Only started happening recently when I got my BIOS updated

 

What's your VR Current Limit?

 

Also what clocks are set and what is it flickering between?

 

900

3.5 to 4.5ghz

 

Who updated the bios/what file and what issues were you having that made you update?

 

The only way for that CPU model to exceed those Amps at such clocks is if the voltage is set too high or if it overheats.

Did you set the manual CPU undervolt (e.g. 100-mV or whatever works for you) again after the flash?

 

What's in that new Bios? Do i need to update?
And should i care about Bios updates if i have premamod? (reseller apparently won't provide updates to that)

 

if your system is running fine, and you're not experiencing any compatibility issues or bugs. I don't see why you would.

 

Exactly. So long the best actually is 1.07.23

Fastest Customizable Gaming Notebooks & Mobile Workstations | CLEVO System Integrator

 

This.

 

thanks to you! So i won't bother.

 

Time to get some gaming time in instead.

 

Or more tweaking? Though rumors say there's a world somewhere.

 

Yep, I've set it back to what I used to use. 4.5GHz -90mv. I hit 92C in BFV so I guess that's why this happens, It didn't seem to happen before. I've been monitoring at I'm hitting 105 to 115W while playing.

 

BF5 is a heavy all round system load.

 

Was 92c with max fans?

 

It doesn't help either that BFV uses AVX instructions.

 

I know this.

Yes, I always play with max fans

Yea this i know, but still doesn't explain why this issue is happening now when it did not happen before even with 95C at 4.7GHz

 

Not many variables here so either physical or software change.

 

At most you'll likely get a BSOD on Windows or an MCE trigger on Linux.

 

Set an AVX offset. Anything between 1 and 3 is OK.

 

Sorry to bring this back to life. Been a bit busy. But this was never resolved. I did contact HID support and they told me I had the latest Prema Bios already and the only option was to install the regular clevo bios (as I mentioned what I was told here about a "new update". So as my computer still does this every time, would you guys suggest I forgo the prema bios and just install the regular one? I know with all my research when buying this laptop everyone says don't get it unless the prema bios is on it. But I have yet to have a reason to go in the bios for anything really since set up. This bug of getting stuck on the EVOC logo when coming back from hibernation every time is extremely annoying as all my programs open obviously just get shutdown by having to do a hard reboot.

 

Hold up: When did Sabrent begin making 2 TB NVMe SSDs?
And their pricing seems to be almost too good to be true https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Rocket-Internal-Performance-SB-ROCKET-2TB/dp/B07MTQTNVR