*** Official Sager NP9175 / Clevo P775TM Owner's Lounge! ***

Lol it is down to a point and if you are careful

 

Are you lapping the next one? Or just a delid, new IHS and go!

 

Maybe a bit less? It is a time consuming process.

 

Thank you for the answer! Actually, I was thinking if his laptop could start my card, cause it supports it (with bandwidth limitations but still), but he wasn't available at the moment so I kinda forgot that topic. Waiting for a replacement currently.

 

If increased pressure from the 4.37mm IHS killed the 9900K, I'll likely just delid the next chip. And run it without the Intel ILM as I did before.

 

That would have been an interesting test. Let us know how it goes with the replacement!

 

anyone know the latest and greatest ME FW ver. and Bios ver. are for the p775 with 1080?

 

Hey! Just received a replacement and it works! So, apparently, something in my GPU died, I guess. Maybe, I'll be able to check in the future, but for now at least I got my machine working

 

Great news, hope you got a good deal on that GPU if it wasn't in warranty anymore!

 

You received a replacement GPU or your entire laptop was replaced?

Did you need to install anything hardware wise?

 

Hello world, here's me again in search for advice.
I have a problem with CPU cooling. It's unmodified 9600K, and it behaves as if it has bad thermal contact. It heats up fast, overheats too easily (at 90+ watts it exceeds 80-85c), and radiator plate and exhaust air is barely warm.
But contact between radiator plate and IHS is... Normal. Maybe not perfect to atomic levels, but normal. And i never before used power hungry desktop CPU with the lid.
So i want to ask, is it normal behaviour for these lidded CPUs or is it something wrong with mine?
Thank you in advance

 

Sounds normal. You need to
undervolt the CPU, and turn up the fans!

Undervolting is key for low temps. Try -0.150v and you will probably drop 20c off.

You can manage the heat of that 9600K pretty easily.

 

Does the system simply not POST at all?
What happens if you put the 9900k in a desktop motherboard with a POST code readout?

 

If the 9600k is clocking normally then that's normal.

 

Ok, long story short. Basically, my GPU died due to thermal issues and EC not behaving as it should (allowing the GPU to heat up to 90 degrees Celsius w/o fans). It still does this with the new one, but I'm going to control it through John's app. Maybe it is still possible to revive it, but I'm going to do that later. So, I guess the random crashes that I was getting were due to the GPU issues rather than me playing with the CPU undervolt (although I tried solving that issue, and still thought it was the CPU).

As per your question, I bought only the GPU, which was from Clevo as well, although, the clocks are a bit different, so is the power management. Maybe it is possible to have another vBIOS with higher clocks and allowed PL?

Well, I only moved the thermal pads from my previous card. The installation procedure is very easy. The same goes for the RTX, but you need to change the heatsink to the unified one (if you buy one).

 

Don't have a desktop board to test with brother. I dropped the CPU into my p775tm1-g chassis with the rest of the parts from the p870tm1. (gtx1080 and ram). I had the 9900k working in p7 chassis prior to the upgrade.

The CPU is simply not recognized, it instantly boots to a black screen then fans ramp up to max after 1min or so and orange LED blinks, then eventually it powers off.
Usually after a complete cmos reset system will power on/power off quickly then proceed to train.
(tested with both internal batteries taken out and cmos cleared by holding power button for 1min in both systems)

However, it simply powers on without power cycling, fans ramp to max This happens in both systems, I also tested with two different memory kits to the same result.
We tried a lot of troubleshooting with Prema and Papusan, 1x8gb stick etc.
The CPU heatsink also remains cold.

 

Usually when the heatsink is cold like that rigor mortus will set in soon after

 

The vrm being cold is a giveaway too.

 

So you say, 85+c on cores with like barely 40c on cooling plate is normal? That is [censored]. My old bare die mobile CPU had it's radiator almost as hot as cores....
Also thinking about replacing it with 8700k. If i delid that thing but without LM (don't want to mess with it yet) will it fare better?

 

You should ALWAYS Delid a 8700k and replace the dow corning paste with liquid metal under the IHS!
What you do NOT have to do is apply liquid metal on TOP of the IHS (between IHS and heatsink). Just apply Kryonaut, Phobya Nanogrease Extreme or Coolermaster Gel Maker Nano there.

 

Ooof.
Thanks for advice, but
Thing in question is 9600k, not 8700k yet.

 

If you really want the lowest temps possible in a laptop try to find a good used 8086K instead. Id say it is worth it especially for a laptop. If you were running a desktop you could probably just run super high voltage and get high overclocks on any 8700K anyways.

I can run 4.3Ghz -0.200 undervolt with 52C load temps.

I am at 5.1Ghz all cores 4.8Ghz cache right now running 72-80C in Kingdom come deliverance.

Running this cpu default runs cooler than some desktops. Really unbelievable.

 

There is a number of things you need to
confirm are good to go.

Heatsink contact cpu, heatsink
contact gpu, thermal pads, fan speed, delidding cpu, perfectly flat IHS, smooth and mostly flat heatsink contact plates, paperclip mod, good quality stainless steel heatsink
screws for proper wrenching lol.

These laptops need some work put in to them for ultimate cooling performance.

The factory cannot possibly do all
of this to each unit. But the new owner of the machine should do it.

You would be amazed of what you can manage with this skimpy little laptop heatsink!

 

Now we're talking.
What is paperclip mod? I've seen it mentioned multiple times, but couldnt find what it is.

I can clearly see a problem in this here unit: GPU cooling works just perfect, after reseating it GPU doesn't exceed 70c under full 115w load (i hope to unlock that limit someday).
The plate and pipes on GPU are hot as they should be, and exhaust air is warm.
CPU easily exceeds 80c all the time when loaded, and i don't even torture it with heavy games. Just launch time of some is enough.
Plate and pipes of CPU side are barely warm at best, and exhaust is cool.

Heatsink contact on CPU looks fine. Heatsink itself is fine too. Can't check if CPU lid warms up though, for obvious reasons.
I have an impression that cooling quality decreased a bit over a year of use. Messing with thermal stuff under radiator had no noticeable effect.

For now, I've derceased cpu fan speed a bit, as it almost doesn't make difference, and just run lowered clocks.
For undervolt the best it can hold is ~ -115 -117 mv at 4,6-4,7 ghz, up to 125 if lower clocks. Nowhere close to 150 you all are talking about.
4-4.2 ghz it still runs cool, but if i wanted low clocks i'd pick a BGA model...

 

You can delidd your 9600K and remove the Intel STIM (soldered thermal interface material) for Liquid metal. Can shave of 4-8C degrees.

Simple and very effective cooling "mod" for p775dm2/p775dm3

 

Or both methods to get the best temperatures without any die sanding.

 

The paperclip mod works especially good with liquid metal.

 

Thank you. Huh, i've already did this "mod" by myself, with exactly zero results.
Can it be that intels solder degraded or just is defective in this chip? or chip itself is utter loss in silicon lottery, as it only manages -115 UV?

 

Actually, that's not quite true.

I tested it again just to be sure, this time without the CPU heatsink, since max fans kick eventually in and cool it. The CPU & VRM do get varm, as does the GPU.
However, the system does the same song and dance whether there is a CPU installed or not.
Max fans kick in about a minute and a half, orange LED begins to blink and system eventually powers itself off after 2½ mins. It's identical behavior that my 8086k had when it went to hw heaven.

So unless it's the GPU, since I tested both p7/p8 with the same 1080, I'm quite certain it's the CPU.

 

The Intels solder shouldn't degrade. And yeah, the silicon lottery still is there. You're sure the fits between IHS and heatsink is good enough? Checked the Intel bracket lottery? Some brackets is taller than the chips and the heatsink won't get proper contact with the Intel IHS. Checked the pads (proper thickness) so they don't stop the heatsink from get proper contact with the Cpu? Several reasons for mot the best temp.

 

My socket bracket is higher on 1 side for sure. With the stock IHS is really annoyed me. it was literally flush or maybe a tiny bit lower. With the rockitcool ihs I am clear all the way around. The IHS pokes above the bracket on all corners/sides.

 

What? I wasn't aware there was a bracket lottery!
Is this only on laptops?

 

At least for the Clevo’s. But I use custom made lid and this doesn’t affect me. Remember the 8th and 9th gen chips ain’t equal tall. Clevo use same MB for 8th/9th gen chips (Z370). Have measured the different chips tallness when I swapped to 9900K.

 

Thanks all for the advice. I'll mess with it tomorrow, as happens just finding decent thermal grease isn't easy here.
I won the bracket lottery, but it may happen that my heatsink isn't flat. I have no access to fancy tools to re-machine it. What's next thing to do?

 

ILM lottery + heatsink lottery = a very bad time

Especially, with the 9th gen chips. Took me a while to figure out what was going on, as the system sat at +95c when I initially got it.

 

MX-4 is not awful and is widely available, what options do you have?

 

I use MX-4 for years. Just happened that nobody had even it, needed to order it, will arrive tomorrow.

 

This is where having a taller IHS really makes a difference in overall temps due to contact pressure.

 

I wasn't aware that the Rockitcool IHS was taller than the stock 8th gen IHS, not that I have calipers to measure. I still had to use a 0.5mm copper shim with the Rockit to ensure good heatsink contact.

 

The old silver shining IHS dremmeled out for the larger core is what I use.

 

So I figured out what's wrong.
IHS is concave. Across the chip ( so top and bottom raised and center depressed).
I'm a winner, eh.
So tempting to replace it.

 

The older BitsPower IHS is indeed much taller than the stock 9th gen, 9th gen being roughly ~2.3mm. It only gets worse if the chip is delidded as it loses even more z-height and makes even worse contact. As the heatsink rests in the ILM (retention bracket) instead of making proper contact with the heatsink.

 

Odd, they are usually convex with heatsinks often being the mirror image to match.

 

Hi everyone, I haven't posted in a while, but I realized a quick little update on the (slight) aging of my p775, ordered in early (feb?) 2018 by way of @Donald@HIDevolution was long overdue. So, without getting into much detail (I'll try to edit later w/ some hwinfo/cpu-z/etc for some basic metrics--i don't benchmark), here goes:

Zero issues. Everything still works just as perfectly as the day I bought it. I haven't been very rough with the machine by any means, nor travelled long-distance via airplane etc with it in luggage, but I have lugged it around a decent bit myself in my car now. I mean I'm not saying I'd expect stuff to start failing or anything weird after only 2 years, but as all know the debate @ the quality of machines (Clevo or else) never ends, so my anecdote is simply to share: solid, no hardware issues, the only issues are the same as day 1--USB ports bit loose and it's damn heavy to carry around ).

Anyway, I just wanted to post my own experience if it helps any current/future later-model Clevo purchasers. I am very satisfied with the computer after ~2 yrs and both internally & externally have been problem-free.

I would still recommend anyone to seriously consider just saving a bit more and dealing with the (even) bulkier p870 if they have the means to do so, as from my understanding it is a fairly large upgrade when it comes to cooling (which is if not the, then at least one of, most critical deciding factors in purchase of DTR/laptop imo). That said, I have had absolutely no issues at all, even recording OBS @ 9k on PUBG, Mordhau with temps fairly healthy&stable w/ only stock clevo fan curves (for short-medium sessions, normal 60% is fine, for extended sessions sometimes I'll put on the 80% "max" for a min or so) and an unmodified coolermaster.

I'll post more details later (or I intend to, anyway ). Hello and thanks etc to peeps.

 

Hello everyone. Sorry for my English. I looked through the forum thread, used the search but did not find the answer to the question. What thickness is the thermal pads used for the RTX20xx in the P775TM1-G? I want to maximize the cooling efficiency. I have available thermal pads Gelid GP-Extreme, GP-Ultimate 0.5, 1, 1.5, 2, 3 mm. Laptop in profile. Thanks in advance.

 

Usually 0.5mm less than the stock setup. You want pliant softer pads for the best contact.

 

OK. Thanks. But the question is, what is the thickness of the stock thermal pads? I did not have stock thermal pads.
Can this post be used as an example -

 

Doesn't this depend on the reseller?

 

No one really knows. The soft factory OEM pads are thicker and extremely soft so they squeeze and mush down with just the little bit of tension from the heatsink screws being tightened down. When you change over to aftermarket thermal pads you must purchase 0.5/1/1.5MM and then install them with the GPU outside of the machine so you can confirm perfect GPU die to heatsink contact.

Aftermarket pads are much harder. This is really a trial and error thing you must fine tune your self. K5 Pro helps in the areas that you cannot see or tell if contact is being made.

 

Thermal grizzly pads are also fairly compliant.

You want to imagine there being 0.5mm steps and you are finding the point where you cant take off 0.5mm across the board anymore.