I’ll take a bit of a mess for lower temps.
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yrekabakery Notebook Virtuoso
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BartX IHS on its way.
Equipped my Cooler Master cooling pad with 2x 200 mm Noctua fans today. Awesome.
Going to fit my second Cooler Master cooling pad with the 3 x 140 mm Nanoxia fans.
I am tempted to remove the speed controller and just run the 2 x 200 mm fans at the full 12V constantly. They make very little noise.
I'll swap my laptop back and forth and see how things differ. My first impression is that the GPU and m.2 temperatures are better with the 2x 200 mm setup and the CPU temperature is actually better with the 3x 140 mm setup. I suspect that this is because the 3x 140 mm side-by-side arrangement actually focuses the airflow on the cpu area better.
However, the true test will be after cutting the proper openings in the tops of the cooler pads to improve the airflow and doing the full repaste/repad/delid and replace the IHS.
Oh and clean the vents again with a tiny shim to get any the dust off fins.jc_denton likes this. -
Meaker@Sager Company Representative
Or you can take the time and adjust the pads just so. -
yrekabakery Notebook Virtuoso
Didn’t work on my P750, spent way too much time and effort and didn’t get as good temps as with K5 Pro. It’s different than the vapor chamber which is all one flat surface. -
I have pads that are theoretically 14.5 W/Mk but I suspect that the better contact with the k5 paste is superior even if it has lower thermal conductivity.
Once I take remove the heatsinks I'll decide which way to go.
I would love to try out a vapour chamber mod for the p775. -
There's no need to literally dump entire computer in that stuff, you can mostly avoid the mess.
It's also easier to get than a set of decent pads in some non-USA places, by the way.
Would like to see a vapor chamber for 775 as well.. For the CPU at least, there's definitely something weird with CPU side in it.jc_denton likes this. -
I checked a while ago, and 56x56x3mm vapor chamber did fit the non-unified heatsink for the P775. Wit the unified heatsink you might need to go bare die in order to it now skew when mounted.
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Meaker@Sager Company Representative
Maybe I just have the knack, done it on every system since the p150em
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How did you fit it? Need to remove cpu holding bracket?
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I test fitted to see whether it physically could fit and was a viable mod. It fits between the mounting holes and clears the inside of case (from what I recall)
But I think you would want to remove the ILM and IHS regardless in both cases. As IHS+VC raises the cooler by ~4mm, which becomes a problem for VRM contact (you'd need like 6mm pads) and might cause clearance issues with the bottom cover. Coupled with the fact that to get most out of the mod you want direct die contact.
Depending on the heatsink lottery, the ILM is higher than the IHS on some corners, which will cause poor contact and adds a whole extra range of useless interfaces between the heat source. And thats not even taking in the account of the actual flatness of the heatsink itself.Papusan likes this. -
Meaker@Sager Company Representative
At 6mm i'd seriously consider modifying the heatsink and putting some extra copper on it.
Papusan likes this. -
This is also almost exactly what I do. I have my fans configured to run at about 24% until my temps hit 60° and then ramp up to max. speed rapidly between 60° and 70°.
On my machine, 24% on both fans is the quiet sweet spot before the first high-pitched whine starts at 25%.BrightSmith likes this. -
Meaker@Sager Company Representative
With some airflow that should cope with idle fine though. Neat.
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Today i replaced standart BartX IHS by taller version, and peak temps dropped by at least 10°C.
Didn't expect such an increase.
With a maximum CPU consumption of about 110 watts, the temperature does not rise above 77 degrees.
Papusan likes this. -
Meaker@Sager Company Representative
Nice, contact must be better in that case.
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That's the one listed as "for CLEVO"?
will keep in mind, thanks for info -
Meaker@Sager Company Representative
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Guys need your help, just bought a 2080 off ebay, the number is N18E - G3-A1..is this compatible with P775tm1 ?? is this the Super ?
And do i need the new heatsink or the one from 1080 works, i have the split one, with modding?? -
Meaker@Sager Company Representative
You first bought the card and then asked?
You'll need the latest BIOS and the easiest heatsink would be the latest one for the model. -
Hahahahaha, yes it was a very nice Price!! I aped in, hope it works, yes i got the latest bios already, and the seller had the heatsink aswell, for 50 Euros i got that also
Do you know what tdp has? Is this the Super Version? Found some info it has 150+ but i dont know if its accurate. -
Meaker@Sager Company Representative
It's totally card dependant but I don't think it's the super. Do you have a picture? Does it work?Cylix101 likes this. -
Seller told me he never used it he bought to upgrade hes 775dm but that implied to do some cutting so he didnt do it anymore.
I hope it works, ill see when it arrives, i have ebay protection as an insurance.
Oh would be nice to be super if not still an upgrade from my 1080.
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Meaker@Sager Company Representative
The 2080 super is N18E-G3R-A1 (notice the R) but it's a full power 2080 so that's not bad.
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yrekabakery Notebook Virtuoso
This is the 150W 2080 not the 200W 2080 Super.
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Aha thx for clarification. Yes also good paired with the i9, hope i can play battlefield 2042 with it without problems
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yrekabakery Notebook Virtuoso
At the very least should run a lot cooler than the the outgoing 1080, especially since your new heatsink is unified, and lets you use DLSS.
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Is the unified the better cooling? also for the CPU? I thought the nonunifed is better in the cpu side cus its only cooling that one.
Now on the installation of the new card, assuming its working
. should i clear cmos before? Whats the best procedure? Stress free, take the 1080 out, insert 2080, clear cmos maybe? Then proceed into Windows?
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Meaker@Sager Company Representative
Clearing the CMOS is not required really, just make sure to be grounded/wear an antistatic wrist band.
Cylix101 likes this. -
Thanks hope its that easy, but with my luck im not that sure
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Meaker@Sager Company Representative
Well it's not one of those super cheap 1060 cards that liked to blow up which is a good start.
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Finally something work from the first try!
Installed the 2080 without problems, no error, i left the normal pads on the gpu side, and on cpu I put some k5 pro, went with Phobya on CPU and Kryonaut extreme on GPU.
Its really hot today and around 23 Celsius inside the room, tested bf5 on ultra with rtx finally and gpu went i after 30 min of gaming around 69 degree celsius with the fans on normal. Pretty good. -
Meaker@Sager Company Representative
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Thanks, yes now im done, upgraded my p775tm1 - G for a while. I also got G sync with the new 2080! Was disabled with the old 1080 for some unknown reason. Maybe if can get a 4k panel, there is one with 120 hz right, thats gonna be the next upgrade.
FTW_260 likes this. -
Meaker@Sager Company Representative
The card may have been non g-sync with the 1080. Swapping the panel unless very specific will break g-sync.
Cylix101 likes this. -
Yes, that was probably the problem.
Now on my 2080, what undervolt do you recommend? -
Meaker@Sager Company Representative
Try a small step at a time, find your limit of stability with something like 3dmark vantage 4k looping and then step back up a bit to give yourself margin.
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Thx, yes ill try that.
Btw how does the 3070 mxm compare with the 2080 150W? Tried to find some benchmarks but didnt find any.. -
yrekabakery Notebook Virtuoso
The 140W 3070M is about 10% faster than the 150W 2080. It’s comparable to a 200W 2080/2080S.
DreDre, jc_denton, Cylix101 and 1 other person like this. -
Oh not, that much, I was still thinking to sell the P775 and get the km with 3070 but its not worthy the hassle and extra money just for 10%
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Yes, it will probably go down now a bit, with China baning mining and Bitcoin going down, good on one side, gpus will get cheaper, bad on the other side for me particulary because my crypto investments are bleeding haha
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On a sidenote, is there any word on a new 3080 for mxm? Like the Super? -
Meaker@Sager Company Representative
It's more the demand that needs to settle. -
Hello everyone, I found a bug and I don't know what to do. After reboot or turning on the laptop, the laptop has been working on the network for more than 10 minutes bug appears..... a bug in the video.
CLEVO P 775 TM1G LAST BIOS FROM DSANKE
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Does it impact the system performance in any way? Otherwise, I wouldn't sweat it too much
Spartan@HIDevolution likes this. -
Meaker@Sager Company Representative
It would be interesting to see if the power management is working properly.
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When laptop get this bug my i5 9600kf gives 4300mhz but battery goind down so fast
When i unplug power and bug don't appear i5 gives only 2100 mhz -
Sometimes when i Plug IN power processor gives to me only 45W ( dring this bug) Then reboot and no any actions with power connecion gives me
Normal 78W ( With my undervolt) -
Huh. And I'm still getting occasional power related buggery with prema's bios. Could it be something in the original code itself, that just stays unnoticed in original firmware?
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Unfortunately dunno ( @dsanke help us
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Meaker@Sager Company Representative
Might be worth testing a fresh OS install to see if does the same (taking an image backup so you can step back).Papusan likes this.
*** Official Sager NP9175 / Clevo P775TM Owner's Lounge! ***
Discussion in 'Sager/Clevo Reviews & Owners' Lounges' started by Spartan@HIDevolution, Oct 6, 2017.