*** Official Sager NP9877 / Clevo P870TM-G Owner's Lounge! - Phoenix 4 ***

Hello, I have a modification of the p870tm-r laptop, which has a problem with the keyboard that does not work after waking up, only the fn + buttons work, which I tried to do: reinstall the system, update the BIOS together with the Hid support service, various drivers. nothing helped, who then has some ideas?
on the forum on this model I could not help

 

Just internal keyboard? Does an external one work?

 

Just internal keyboard, usb keyboard and mouse works normally (only if they were connected in advance) if you connect them after sleep mode, they will not work until restart

 

Try press keys above "enter" and than try typing. Had same issue and it works for me. Never bothered why is that so.

 

You're getting single T-shaped GPU?

Always though that VC SLI is best option to keep gpu cool. Even with single card setup.

 

does not work

 

I have a few of both. The T and the Dual

 

I find it interesting you want to go with the T as well.

 

Depends on how much airflow your getting through the chassis. Normal usage without a cooler under allows for to much heat soak for my liking. So I prefer the T if I know I'm going to be mobile with it.
Using the T shape also helps keep the entire chassis a bit cooler. Especially the palm areas. Using the modded laptop cooler helps out with keeping a brunt of the heat soak to min. And just allows more air to be moved. Yes the Tshape can get to it's soaked max quicker. But the fans can cool it off on a good curve faster than the Dual VC. I'm not knocking the Dual by any means, as I have had great results keeping the GPU cool. It's just everything else that is at the mercy of all that heat soak that bothers me.

 

Have you compared max Gpu temp between them?

 

As it stands with a shim the T with a voltage curve set at 950mv flat temps haven't reached above 66-68 ° That's BFV and Warframe 2-3 hour runs.
T shape shimmed = 66-68°
T shape without Shim = +- 69-72° same scenario.
Dual VC shimmed = 66-68° (BUT it takes longer to get to these temps vs T-Shimmed)
Dual VC not shimmed =70-74°
CPU-- core list per clock + -135 undervolt.
1-5.0ghz
2-5.0ghz
3-4.9ghz
4-4.9ghz
5-4.8ghz
6-4.8ghz
7-4.7ghz
8-4.7ghz
Shimmed CPU HS new Noctua Paste= 69-72°
Shimmed CPU HS Liquid Metal- 65-66°
Shimmed CPU HS IC Graphite Pad - 66-67°
No Shim CPU HS new Noctua Paste 78-80°
No Shim CPU HS IC Graphite Pad - 68-74° (unflat surface on HS)
**Didn't even attempt Liquid Metal on no Shim HS. Last time I tried that with the 8700k temps rivaled that of a space craft re-entering the Earth's Atmosphere.
**** Do note that I have a specific fan curve for all three Fans , normal Warframe gaming fans never make it above 35-40% BFV I have yet to see the fans ramp above 64% .
And All testing has been done on the laptop cooler (notepal with Noctua fans)and the Eurocom 780 PSU.

 

The vapor chamber can be fit perfectly to perform very well. Did you modify the pads on it?

 

Arrrrghhhhh it looks so good!!!! I love a thorough comparison test. So many hobby hours tho....

 

And also this IC graphite pad performs really great. Like in your tests its almost on pair with liquid metal.

@kfxsti did you soldered shim to cooler or just liquid metal between shim and cooler?

 

I Soldered the shim to the cooler. On both the GPU/CPU heatsinks.
I even was able to solder a IHS to the cooler . I'll speak more of this later once I test that a little more LOL. *Spoiler* act of planets aligning together, Moon Pressure and Soil Temperature of a spot of Land near the Andes being correct, I have found a way to get this to work - and be able to hold the CPU substrate/die in the slot . Takes the worry out of liquid metal between the IHS and Cooler . Kind of like using a die guard, but only using the Rockit88 9 Series IHS.

PALLEease note with the Graphite Pad like liquid metal, that both surfaces will need to be as flat as possible. I went through several different types of Screws/bolts and springs to compensate for the Cupping the CPU heatsinks aquire during tighter mounting pressure. LOL with out adjusting even a non shimmed HS, once it cupped - nothing TIM wise helped.
Also want to note that shimming WILL raise the CPU HS, this may not be noticable at first. BUT with the Dual VC, it can possibly push up that bottom corner that lays on top of the CPU HS- of course depending on the thickness of shim that is used. Bigger shim in Thickness/Length/Width helped keep cupping out of the equation. BUT at the shifting up of the Dual VC heatsink at their meeting point. You could "technically" mold the Dual VC in that spot.
But my goal in every bit of this testing was to find the safest and easiest (I wouldn't say cheapest, especially if you donk up a Heatsink- Dual VC is pricey for what it is) way to get us better and more stable temps. I know our P870 is no more, but I plan on doing whatever I can to keep this Chassis alive . I've had it's smaller brother the 775 .... It's neat, and quick... But it's not a P870. I will do everything I can to get some screenshots up, pics of some of the processes and all. Lol I have to do this all during daddy/work/life time. So bare with me guys.

 

I tried everything you could possibly try other than putting the HS in a vacuum and cutting it in half LOL
The GPU Dual VC needs 2-3 shims on parts other than the DIE and a spot milled off for a nice flat mounting. I have my small CNC machine up and running so getting the milling done was quick and clean.

 

Hey, maybe somebody have broken gtx1080mxm ( clevo) for sale ? I need board. In my card
short circuit inside the board

 

http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/fs-clevo-p870km-read.828785/

 

I saw that, but there problem with tracings under GPU (

 

That really went boom.

 

I think he let all of the smoke out of that poor board.

 

Yes the magic smoke escaped and all the electrons fell out

 

Hi, I have a laptop with your BIOS, and it has problems with the keyboard after waking, can it be because of the BIOS? support hid couldn't help me (clevo p870tm-r)

 

I have been looking into this and some seem to have a conflict during wake from sleep / resume from standby.

I'll see if this can be solved on firmware or driver level. Until then, if you experience this issue just disable sleep/standby mode.

 

Thanks for the quick reply. Yes, I have disabled it for now, but I would like to find a solution to this problem.

 

From the sounds of it it's not something for an end user to find a solution for.

 

Sleep is the epitome of all evil. Lol

 

Turning sleep off is the end users solution. Honestly, why use sleep mode anyhow? It boots in a handful of seconds...

@kfxsti question:
Do you think, in regards to the cupping of the cpu heatsink, that gently bending the cpu die area (if possible) in the opposite direction of the cupping concave would improve it sufficiently? Rather than shim town?

 

That is something I did ponder. But milling a wonky curved IHS would probably be better . I can attest that dicking with the CPU and or it's Die in anyway is beast in it's own right, especially if you somehow warp the Substrate of the CPU. I have had friends do some jacked up delidding jobs and warp, tear and destroy CPU substrate/pcb layers. And though I was able to save a few. The shear amount of issues that come from all of that is a large headache.
Shimming by far is the easiest and safest way I have found. You worry less of the CPU as the IHS distributes it's load amongst 4 sides/corners. And yes it does add mounting pressure. But if you size the shim right, cupping doesn't happen. Hell, if they would have used a proper plate instead of that thin copper tape they call a Plate, we wouldn't be having to shim or fix a issue that should have been corrected during it's R&D period.
I probably could pull you some pressure paper test info from a non shimmed heatsink that I can cup on purpose so you can how it leaves a substantial gap in the center of the IHS/Heatsink area. That way you could possibly sand/lap/and or mill a IHS with a curvature that could possibly match up to the cupping. It's on my to try list my self. But Soldering the IHS to the HS and removing the Clasp mechanism is a far easier approach that netted far better drops in temps.
LOL nothing says suck it warranty like removing the CPU clamp from the motherboard LOL

 

Lol well we’re past the warranty with delidding anyhow...
Ah I specifically meant bending the cpu heatsink and heat pipes side rather than anything else, like in a kind of anti cupping direction...

Also, general question, I remember on my p370em there was no ihs at all. So do all specifically mobile chips not have ihs? What’s the difference? Are ihs really necessary? Are mobile chips made differently in terms of surrounding pcb?

 

Anyone got a link for some decent pressure paper for testing this stuff?
Or is carbon paper good enough to use

 

not only sleep mode, also standby mode, and it is annoying

 

Cheap thermal paste and looking at the pattern works well too.

 

You can try that, but it's copper. And soft copper at that. You could counter bend it yes. But you will loose that mounting pressure/and counter bend under it's first tightening lol. I attempted that to. If you make a bracket to go on top of the IHS that makes an X from mounting screw to mounting screw, you can keep the cupping from happening. But you would need to mod the Dual VC Heatsink to accommodate for the extra space needed on that side of the CPU heatsink. Or use the T-shaped GPU heatsink.

 

Arctic makes the paper I have been using.


@Fromont
As for mobile vs desktop IHS and die related. I haven't been brave enough to not tightly mount anything in regards of the CPU. The pins are brittle and too small for me to want to have to worry about. But you can "technically"direct die mount with a proper shim to the heatsink. But you loose the surface area of the IHS itself being a conductor of heat. If we were water cooling these chips then yes, I'd myself be running naked die to heatsink. But given it's still a laptop, and it's movable- I've personally ruled out doing that as unless you get things perfect and would need something like a die guard to help hold the CPU in place . And I use the term "in place" loosely because of possible mounting pressure requirements for pin to CPU corrective touching - on top of possible other reasons lol. I did get it to work. I wasn't no where near as impressed doing so as I was running naked die to heatsink on my desktop with a liquid cooled loop. If your worried of shimming the heatsink. Do like I am doing now. Solder a Rockit88 iHS to the heatsink in it's respective position. Remove clasp bracket. Liquid metal between the IHS and Die. And call it a day. You rule out many many many flaws with the heatsink by doing that. If you cup that IHS once it's soldered to the heatsink. Temps are going to be the least of your worries LOL

 

ok chipquik ordered. I suppose if I wanted to solder another large ish heat sink onto the cpu heatsink I’m gonna run into trouble with too much heat and the current structure collapsing yes?
I think shim is safest, but I’ll consider ihs direct...warranty schmarranty...

 

Space is your main issue really.

 

It definitely fits. It’s currently in there but only with thermal paste. It’s got a 1u server heatsink although I suspect it’s main function is channeling air through the fins that are actually attached to the heatsink. So perhaps soldering it is pointless. I should first mess around with a bracket that does the same thing without added copper mass...

 

1 u heatsinks are certainly designed for the 24v several thousand rpm fans they are fitted with.

 

Links, please?
Google turns up absolutely nothing.
It was IC that made it, which was just resold Fujifilm Prescale.

https://www.amazon.com/d/Computer-Heatsinks/Innovation-Cooling-Contact-Analysis-Heatsink/B07CKHRKHQ
(Sensorprod.com).

Do you have another source for this that doesn't cost a kidney and a right arm?

 

@Falkentyne you are exactly right. I swore I had written ICD but it looks like I definitely typed Arctic. My apologies on that whole heartedly my good sir.
It is rather pricey for what it is. But what stash I have was sent for me to play with for this sole reason of the p870tm Heatsink mods. If you find a good fresh pack of carbon transfer paper. It will work as well. Depending on for sure what you are looking for in the test.

@Fromont
Instead of soldering the shim. Or adding more pipes, Heatsinks etc. Try making an X bracket , or like I mentioned. Instead of the shim. Solder a copper IHS to the Heatsink-remove clasp bracket . Cover the CPU pcb with kapton tape, Liquid Metal the top of the die/bottom of the IHS. And you kind of have a naked die setup. LOL. When you pull the heatsink off bam, naked DIE. You know, Running that CPU all bracketless is risque . It's like commando for freeballin it. Just inside the laptop .
*** Just please remember for the love of all things Holy that when you pull the HS off. The CPU as whole will probably come with it LOL. My first time I was like OMG where the he...... Hey..... there is my CPU . MIND The Pins !!! Lol

 

Packing another manufacturers material is never going to be cheap.

 

CPU bracket...thoughts?

 

You need to be careful of SMDs and how much force you apply and where.

 

Agreed. Gently gently and lots of adjust and test. I want a flat heatsink not a high pressure one...

 

Washers/rubber coating would also be advised.

 

Remember the two mounting sides that go under the Dual GPU VC heatsink. You will have to clear that somehow.

 

Yep haven’t look too closely at that yet...
Actually I considered printing it out of a high temp plastic... but otherwise will be bronze/brass...

 

My shroud is printed from carbon fiber/polycarbonate. I have pondered the x brace in the same filament but I've already went through shimming everything LOL.
Remember the erector sets? Layer stacking these in an X worked when I messing around with it.