*** Official Sager NP9877 / Clevo P870TM-G Owner's Lounge! - Phoenix 4 ***

Remember it will go through thermal and tensile stress when picking the material.

 

Hello, new here and I needed some advice. I ordered the Sager NP9877 (Clevo P870TM-G model with duel gtx 1080 and i7 8086k. I recently opened the laptop, delidded the cpu with an copper ihs, used liquid metal and saw the decrease in Temps. I'm happy about that. I also put liquid metal on the gpus and bought new thermal pads from fujipoly extreme xr-m 1.5mm. I noticed the existing pads looked around 1.00mm around the heatsink with miscellaneous smaller cut thermals all around the heatsink with different thicknesses. I replaced the pads I know that we're on the pcb of the gpus that were longer strips . Did a test run and my gpu Temps were erratic and tried 4x times on having the liquid metal connect with the heatsink. Cut the thermals thickness to smoothen the surface as much as possible and still failed. So I slathered arctic mx4 on the gpus and the Temps are holding idle around 34°c but when I benchmark it, it hits 90° plus. My theory is that the fujipoly pads I bought are affecting the connection. Do you think that this is the case?I also am curious if anyone have a diagram of the positioning of the thermals and sizes so everything falls into place correctly?

 

Could be the Fujipoly pads which are causing the issues, since the highest conductivity ones are very hard and do not deform like other pads do. Gelid GC Extreme pads are a good alternative for something high performing, but arctic pads are good enough unless you are really pushing a high overclock.

 

With what was said above ^^
I'd switch to Arctic for the sake of Spongeyness and being able to conform appropriately.

 

https://images.app.goo.gl/d7Pe6A738ncNXuhM8

Did you follow the pad guides?

 

I did not follow the guide but that is extremely helpful in purchasing the pads and different sizes. I figured buying the highest quality pads from fujipoly would be compatible but didn't realize in how much conforming plays in as an issue. Should I stick with arctic pads all the way through the sizes or grab 0.5 and 2.0 from arctic and 1.0 from a different company? I do want to achieve best possible Temps without any hardware soldering mods. Cpu and gpu are overclocked from exoticpc and I did undervolt

 

I have been using Arctic this whole time and have nothing but good things to say about them

 

So long as the pads conform you are all good, you can stack on everything but the VRMs (the small black chips doing the voltage control) and I'd leave their pads stock (they are very compliant and quite tall).

 

Thank you so very much. My last laptop was a hp hdx18, loved it but it burned out 1.5 years in. I'm really about making sure this beast is cooled as much as possible because it costed me an arm and a leg. Absolutely worth every penny! I'll be taking it apart in the next day for a realignment of the pads, test with fujipoly then if no change, I'll put on the Arctic . Is it worth putting liquid metal on the gpus? I'm just reading conflicting reviews on it!

 

I do, if done right you should see about a 25c drop over stock with higher clocks. Exact numbers dependant on a lot of factors of course.

 

I'd add the liquid metal if it were me. LOL my liquid metal covered parts has liquid metal covered parts . Definitely worth it temp wise my good man

 

So I followed the guide, did not liquid metal paste , tested it under arctic mx 4 paste and gpu 2 seems to get hotter then gpu one. Max temp for gpu one was 84°c for a 5 minute test under stress and gpu one was 74-76°c using both using identical gpu loads. Even idle gpu one is always cooler by 3°c. I don't remember this being normal

 

Picture below

 

Here what it looks like. It seems like I'm missing a copper ocean heatsink, like there is supposed to be 5 instead of 4 because after the 3rd one, you see some sticky adhesive residue . Should I grab a few off amazon? https://ibb.co/ZL6pm76

 

As for those smaller Heatsinks. That's up to you, and if you are using a laptop cooler (modded notpal) to be able notice any temp differences with those small ones.
Uneven core temps could me a multitude of different things. From an uneven heatsink (warpped,dented) mine for example had a dent in the 2nd GPU die area and caused me nothing but headaches until I got the dent out. Other possibilities could be being warped, GPU could be sitting a smidge higher than the other, getting both fans synced together. To just margin of error of manufacturing process .

 

@Meaker@Sager @Papusan or anyone that may know. But does anyone know for sure the Pcie Lane setup on this mother board? And if x16 is possible for the GPU with 3 m.2 SSD's installed, or will it run at 8x no matter what?

 

8x each MXM slot by hardware design

 

Thank you my good sir!!

 

For reference the m.2 slots are all connected to the southbridge which means they do share the 4x link total bandwidth max of the chipset. But wont impact the CPU.

 

And thank you too @Meaker@Sager !!
So regardless of how many lanes the CPU has, our mobos have part of the lanes built in through the DMI , and our gpus are fed off of the Cpu lanes right ? Given thats how the "standard" z370 Mobo is specd out

 

Yes its specced out like basically all SLI supporting z series boards.

 

maybe weird or stupid question but answer will be appreciated:
can we use rtx2080 mxm + quadro p5200 MXM i it and use them separately(if need gaming,will use rtx and if need professional card,will use quadro ) or the bios/system won't work/allow and if not, is there anyway to make it work?

 

The quadro wont be hooked up to any outputs but you could use it as a render target.

 

I can't figure this out. Part of my laptop is heating up. I would say +50c. To the point that it's uncomfortable to hold hand on palmrest. At first I thought that it might be battery. So I took it out and now it is even worse. Guess battery was soaking heat before.

Idk how it's possible but part that is heating up is apparently sound card! And I'm out of clue how to fix it. When I opened laptop right after it get hot, inside it was even hotter. I'm afraid that in long term it could cause failure of other components

If you have any idea, please share!

 

Are you certain that the heat is not coming from the onboard chipset?

 

I know it sounds weird. It's weird for me also. But i made tests and the hottest component right after turning it off and opening is sound card. Everything around is hot but not that hot. I was looking at other components that might generate heat in this area - but couldn't find anything. Like there is nothing there that should be getting hot anyway.

First shot was battery that might starting to fail and getting hot. But without battery its even worse.

Idk what could be reason. Im using stock sound drivers. Only BIOS(dsanke) is moded + EC is TM's. But idk if it could even have something to do with sound card.

There is also another thing that i did not notice earlier. Red light in headphone jack ???

 

Red light should be the S/PDIF Optical output I believe.

 

The board circled is the dedicated audio board. If the audio us working it's not going to be the source of heat.

 

I've seen several posts in the Alienware group and I think maybe one on here showing the audio board to be overheating.
It's very possible for a defective audio board DAC to overheat.

 

It could short but I would expect the audio to be corrupted.

 

Maybe flash to stock firmware (EC/BIOS & ME) and see what happens.
According to your signature you don´t own a TM but a KM model and the audio board is controlled by the EC.
Using the wrong models EC is generally a bad idea and will kill the entire board sooner or later...

 

Ok, I would do that but according to guy with same issue (TM EC, trying do downgrade), he wasn't able to flash KM's EC.

@Prema do you think it would work with regular procedure? I mean rufus/freedos/flashec.bat?

 

Flash in DOS and add a:

/i

to the bat line

 

Just to be extra sure

like this?:

> FLASHEC.BAT/i

 

Nope. I'll PM you the file.

 

Ok. After flash of KM's EC - palmrest area is noticeable cooler. Now it is only warm. As we could expected - @Prema was right . Thank you big time!

 

Nice

 

False positive outcome

unfortunately it is still broken. After 10-15 mins it's getting same hot(like it hurts to hold hand there for longer period of time) as it was before.

Tried so far lots of things. EC to latest km. Different sound drivers. Different control center apps, Headphones, Windows reinstall. Checking if everything is connected correctly to the sound board.

Only thing that is working but is not solving issue is to turn off sound device in device manager. In this case it's not heating up but i also have no sound whatsoever.

If anyone have any idea what else i could try, please share with me :/

 

Was this a problem before Dsanke mod? Did you try setting your system back to its original BIOS+EC and seeing if the problem went away? It could be a defective audio daughtercard, but what changes have been done since it started heating up noticeably?

 

It wasn't. But it wasn't problem after mod also(coz i've been using it for months with dsanke). Like it started i would say month ago. This area was always a bit warm - even in reviews (on screen idle temps). But mine is nothing near to 31C. So i dont think it could be caused by BIOS (and still i have i7 9700k - selling it and using way worse CPU kinda sucks).

Yesterday at night i was trying different things. One of it was taking off subwoofer. After it i've been using it for 10 minutes and it was noticeable cooler. But i not sure if 10 mins is enough to heat this up. Than i realized that for weeks im using different AC adapter. ATM i have 3x AC adapters. 2x 230 and 1x 330 from MSI. When i was testing for 10 minutes without subwoofer - it was on different AC adapter than i use on desk.

So today i will do further tests to find if it will help to use different setups of AC. Idk if faulty AC could cause this kind of issue. Or unplugging subwoofer could help in this situation either. But soundcard shouldn't be heating up on first place. So logic might not be best friend in this case :/

 

How are you using 3 AC adapters exactly? What does the chain look like?

 

Update: AC is fine, every one of em. Problem still persists. Taking off subwoofer only weakened it but by small margin (around 5C cooler sound board than with it). Also red light from headphones jack is back after win reinstall - no idea why also.

I have 3x AC. Using only 2x230 or 1x230 or 1x330 at time.


Well. I'm out of clues and ideas. Seeing only 3x ways to handle it:

1. Getting new sound board. It's broken and it would explain why other's KM's laptops do not heat up in this area though they're using latest intel CPU. It could also not solve anything coz heating up problem might be related to "over" voltage of card.
2. Getting small copper plate to soak heat from card. Idk if it would fit. And it might be temporary solution - since sooner or later card will burn down probably.
3. Getting cooling pad and pray that it would affect this area (though sound card is hidden beyond battery)

If you have anything better, feel free to advice.

 

Red light is the optical out.

 

Hello. Do you have any update about that issue?
Thank you in advance

 

do you know where i can find an adapter for the MXM slot inmy laptop to PCI

 

An mxm to PCI-e 16x you mean?

 

Yes, I know that PCI to MXM exsist.

 

Tricky to do as mxm feeds back signals the system requires not to shut down in an EC panic. So you would need a modified bios. Then it's not a common conversion like m.2 to PCI-e. Your best place would be something like aliexpress.

 

It's fixed in the next update, which is going through final testing. Just contact your reseller...

http://forum.notebookreview.com/index.php?posts/10921073

 

Ah that's pretty cool