*** Official Sager NP9877 / Clevo P870TM-G Owner's Lounge! - Phoenix 4 ***

Thought this might help out with the surface temperatures the other guy was mentioning. The audio board's DAC does get warm, but is significantly cooler than the back light for the display (for reference). Images shot on a FLIR E8 thermal imaging camera.

 

Very cool toy there

 

I talked to a reseller he said:
The next update wasn't released yet we are still at version 3 (

 

The world of infrared is quite fascinating! If you have anything in particular you'd like to see under the FLIR please let me know. Doesn't even have to be the P870 specific.

 

That's what going through final testing means, it's not out yet.

 

Yep, true that. But in my case it was similar to what we see on back of laptop. Waaaay to hot. Too bad I don't have one of this to show.

Anyway I tried different stuff. All failed.

Now laptop is in profesional service. They re looking for cause. I hope that is just some short circuit. Otherwise I will have to order new audio board. And even then it might not help since it could be overvoltage from motherboard.

Will update you on this.

 

Does anyone know if a single card can be used in the slave spot and it work correctly? Or does single HAVE to be in the master card slot?

 

Did a bit of digging and the p870 bat used in the dm/2/3/tm is actually just a rebuilt p180hm battery board in a new package. That means If you find a p180hm battery it's a direct replacement for a p870 battery if you get it out of its case. Vice versa is true as well; if you have a p180hm and are struggling to find a battery, the p870 battery is just a reskinned 180hm

 

All the display outs are wired to the master slot.

EC may chuck a hissy fit as well from an empty master slot. Conceivably the slave card could be used to generate a display that could be captured by teamviewer or such

 

Well , after fighting with some wonky temps since Friday. I did everything imaginable to keep the laptop stable . Underload the 2080 cause the laptop to power completely off. No matter the curve set for it. Reached out to a friend , he helped troubleshoot . We came to an agreement that there was an issue on thermal pad sizes . After a crap load of testing , cutting pads (thank you all things holy for Amazon) we had the issue resolved... Until today.. jumped in Warframe and boom. Shutdown..

SoooOooo. I take her apart again .. and get to pondering.. many moons ago, I remember one of the DIE plates was dented upon receiving the laptop when I bought it. I got the small dent out some time ago, and never thought about it much anymore.. I get to measuing and checking for warpage -just to see if maybe by some stroke of the Imagination that the dent was back or if the earth had wobble slightly out of whack last week- causing some sort of anomoly in the matrix or something...

What I found was.. evidently there is some sort of chamber (lol) under that plate.. the amount of warpage on that plate looked as if some one pressed it in with their thumb. It my good people of the tm1 group was no dent, not a warp.. but that of what seems to be a collapse. SoooOooo I guess I'll be reaching out to order another dual VC heatsink. Hopefully this one will be better from the factory than in the shape my original came installed in my laptop.

Eurocom is definitely proud of their modded Dual VC (rtx 2080 instead of gtx1080) for .. 400+ dollars.. lol the non modded is the same price... Luckily I have several of the single GPU sinks and I had already modded them for the 2080. So that will tie me over until I find one alot cheaper than 400+ dollars. I can justify spending money to an extent... But for that much money, it had better come in mirror polished condition and zero warpage. I could buy 6 single Heatsinks for that price lol.

 

Just before you chuck it, try heating it up with a heat gun, while clamped everywhere but that area. It might just start to swell up and pop the dent back out. But only if it is still holding its vacuum.

Or if you have access to something that could get really powerful suction on a small enough area and just pull it out PDR style.

That's what mine did when I was soldering stuff to it, I heard a couple pops then a heatpipe over the slave card desoldered and detached from over the core and popped right up, since I didn't have a clamp on the bit south of the slave core part it had bulged upwards. The pops must have been the internal reinforcement posts snapping. I was able to gently squish it back flat, heat it to reattach the heatpipe, and its been all good since with no loss of performance.

 

The GPU heatsink is a vapor chamber and does need to be handled accordingly.

 

True that. Remember a few hundred posts back I posted a pic of the original dent and you and both agreed that it was indeed a dent.

 

I'll give it a good look over and try this afternoon. If it weren't the die area itself, I wouldnt be overly concerned about it. But of course.. my luck would have it.. that's where it is.

 

You can see the outline of the support posts for the vapor chamber, is it between them?

 

Yep yep its pulled down over the posts. A wavy W would better describe it.

 

If the dent goes into a post it suggests the post has been crushed.

 

It over lays the post. I wonder given how thin it is there if heat would bring that spot out.

 

It has to be fairly thin for the vapor chamber concept to work well.

 

Update about audio board:

So this "professional service" so far is total disaster. Today i got phone call that after week and half they still need to "diagnose" for few days - but most likely it's GPU... I cant imagine how audio board heating problem turns out to be GPU issue. And i have really dread feeling about it.

 

Is it still in warranty?

 

unfortunately it is not. And it's also not some official clevo service - unfortunately there isn't one in my country. Will see what they will say when it will be finally "diagnosed". Somehow i feel that i should have just order audio board and don't bother with "repair"

 

What country ?

 

I would be wary too.

 

Getting some pretty toasty CPU temps on my p870tm1, actually higher than on my p775tm1. Hoping to find a fix.

I took the hardware out of my p775tm1 into the new p870tm1 barebone.

R15 run both at 4.8Ghz 1.115v (same 9900k cpu used in both systems)
p870tm1 w/ LM = 97c
p775tm1 w/LM = 84c

I noticed that the CPU heatsink makes contact with the CPU retention bracket on one side, which is higher than the IHS for some reason. And thus does not have full contact with the IHS. Very similar to what @Mr. Fox decribed in one of his videos.

To try and combat this issue I've since removed the c-clips from the CPU heatsink and that did help a tiny bit, but it does not fix poor contact between the heatsink and the IHS.

Temps after removing c-clips, 92c.

So I'm trying to figure out what to do now. To look for copper shim? use thermal paste in stead of LM or get an IHS that is taller so it won't have the clearance issues.

 

Shim it !!!!!!! Lol

 

A shim would work best to raise it yes.

 

I have some old copper shims 20mmx20mm from back when I needed them for the 1080. These are too small to cover the entire IHS, unless I stack them besides each other. Any tips on what size to get? I'm thinking 0.5 to 1mm thickness?

 

.5 is good. 1mm depending if you can unwarp your HS so even the shim doesn't hit the CPU clasp.

 

Depending on how much contact interference there is, 0.5mm, 0.8mm or 1.0mm will work. Thinner is better, so no thicker than you need to gain the clearance. If 1.0mm is not enough, then the heat sink or retention bracket (or both) are bent and need to be replaced. Also, be sure to check the Torx screws on the hinged end of the CPU retention bracket to make sure they are tight. I have found them loose a couple of times and this will cause problems. Check the heat sink copper plate as well, to be sure it is not arched or bowed away from the CPU. It needs to be flat, including the outer ears where the 4 mounting screw holes are located.

And, 30mm x 30mm is the size you want to cover the IHS. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=30mm+x+30mm+copper+shim&_sacat=0

 

Just to add to what @Mr. Fox said, you can go a little longer if needed. That will help take up some of the cupping that happens with these Heatsinks. Just don't go wider than the IHS. As for the thickness, remember you have to keep it from pushing up under the GPU Heatsink if you have the Dual VC.

 

For $5.99 only and protracted shipping times, I'd order .5 .8 and 1.0 just to be sure and add the rest to my rainy day collection of parts (This is also a great way to have the Mrs. all over you about your growing pile of parts that are slowly but surely taking over the spare room )

 

You can try sand down the top of CPU retention bracket on the one side if a minor change in height is enough. Other choices as mentioned above (replace it - try tightening the screw). I would try avoiding use of copper chim.

 

I'd really like to avoid grinding down the retention bracket, as I just got this machine and that would involve taking the whole thing apart to get it out. But I see your point, and this is something I would likely do down the road.

I had a razor on the retention bracket and the ihs to see how bad it was, and I think 0.5mm shim would do fine there. The worst gap is towards the cpu fan and down towards ram/battery. I don't know if it the bracket itself that warps under tension or just a bad fit all together.

But I don't know whether the cpu heatsink still will hit the retention bracket. Luckily the 20mm x 20mm shims I have are different thickness, so I can use them to figure what thickness the new shim needs to be.

 

A dremel could cut a square from an existing sheet.

 

I did have a spare copper sheet around 1mm thick, however when cutting it to size it ended up getting kinda warped. So I put that idea on the shelf again.

 

Just use some decent thermal paste for the time being. Works perfectly.
On P870TM shimming is only required for LM.

 

I have used a lever style paper cutter to cut shims.
No BS. You would be surprised at the technical force required to cut thick paper.

 

Dremel and a clamp would do the trick too.

 

A quick update,

I tried applying regular thermal paste, cool dudes at HIDevolution included a tube of IC Diamond 24c
The temps were again hitting +95c. So I went ahead and cleared the cmos, then tried with default settings, then with a -140mV undervolt, no good, 95c.

I then noticed that the retention bracket towards screws 2 & 3 is bending like a banana.
I tried (bad pic) to capture it one handed, you can make out the gap under the razor.

Spoiler

I've also lapped the stock intel ihs to try and see if it would fix it, same bad temps.

I̶'̶m̶ ̶g̶o̶i̶n̶g̶ ̶t̶o̶ ̶t̶r̶y̶ ̶a̶n̶d̶ ̶s̶e̶e̶ ̶w̶h̶e̶t̶h̶e̶r̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶p̶7̶7̶5̶t̶m̶1̶ ̶c̶p̶u̶ ̶h̶e̶a̶t̶s̶i̶n̶k̶ ̶f̶i̶t̶s̶ ̶a̶n̶d̶ ̶g̶i̶v̶e̶ ̶t̶h̶a̶t̶ ̶a̶ ̶s̶p̶i̶n̶ ̶b̶e̶f̶o̶r̶e̶ ̶c̶a̶l̶l̶i̶n̶g̶ ̶i̶t̶ ̶q̶u̶i̶t̶s̶.̶

 

Try the Cpu bracket from your P775

 

I was gonna do that! But then I realized that I don't want to cannibalize my little p775tm1

I think the retention bracket bending and the heatsink making contact must be the problem here.

Spoiler

It's metal on metal there.

 

You haven’t many choices. Either RMA for new (MB with the) retention bracket and heatsink, new machine or getting what you need to fix it. Talk with HID and hear from them what’s the best option. Maybe they can send you an new bracket and heatsink and you’ll fix it yourself.

You can still put the bracket back in your P775 afterwards.

 

I'm going through all the earlier suggestions by mr. Fox and Prema etc.
Next up, i'll try and shim it, hopefully that'll solve the retention bracket/heatsink contact.

 

I'd speak to them before doing anything drastic.

 

Someone on here once said: necessity is the mother of all inventions.

So, I ended up taking out the retention bracket, taping down the cpu with kapton tape and using a larger copper ihs to have enough mounting pressure for the cpu. The result is max temps at 79c!

I was sitting on a toasty 95c-99c prior to this. No matter if it was liquid metal or thermal paste.
All because the heatsink was making contact with the retention bracket and resting on it, instead if the ihs.

 

A taller IHS would have done that, it's what I use on mine.

 

Taller, as in a Bitspower ihs? I had a look at them, but I didn't think it would fit the 9900k

I ended up using the copper ihs I had from my 8086k, it's thicker than Intel's stock ihs and has a slightly larger surface area.

 

I ground down the core contact part to fit.

 

The bitspower is larger in both surface area and height vs the 9900 stock IHS.