*** Official Sager NP9877 / Clevo P870TM-G Owner's Lounge! - Phoenix 4 ***

What RAM kit would you recommend in that same price range?

 

A good 3000mhz kit from the likes of g.skill will do well.

 

Alright, my ‘friends’ p870tm is working again. For the browser tinkerers out there who might read this NEVER get too complacent with liquid metal. It’s been said before but I’m saying it again. After roughly 5 hours, much stress and many $ spent, I replaced my motherboard. I also got a 9700k to check it wasn’t the cpu, but it feels so nice to use I’m not sure I can sell it again...I’m hoping that this experience was quelled my obsession with making the damn thing better than it was before...

 

Nice, shame about the motherboard though. Were you able to figure out how LM caused it to fail?

 

Yes but it’s highly embarrassing.

Here’s some extra things I learned:
My clevo p370em didn’t miss a beat for a laptop from 2012. Still plays bfv at 70fps (albeit on low settings).

Key board cable clips can be broken right out of the box. This is not a good thing to find out at 2am when you just want it to be fixed. Swapping them from the broken mobo is delicate but doable. If you forget how the cables reattach, the top one goes in front of the clip and the bottom one goes behind the clip. In order to get the bottom one ‘in’ its best to have a little plastic tag or plate stuck to the mobo in the white square to help the cable in. You can find it, eventually, on the old motherboard.

Rtx 2080 upgrades require a stand off to be removed from the chassis before installation. They can short the gpu out. It takes almost an entire disassembly to take it out in order to cut it. If you forget to take it out and cut it because you got to that bit at 2am, your going to have to pull it apart again at some point soon.

When you disassemble a p870, you will get to a point where youve removed all the obvious screws, but it won’t come apart. At this point you need to flip the laptop and carefully lift and slide the top face or the palm rest side of the laptop out from under the hinge assembly. If you don’t know this it will take an age to work out (particularly if it’s late).

When you reassemble the HDD, and it doesn’t get recognised on boot, it’s because although it feels like it’s slotted in, its actually tucked itself under the motherboard and isn’t connect. You need it to hug the back of the gpu as you slide it in to work.

If your ever wondering why these machines cost so much dam money in the first place,one of the reasons is because they are worlds apart from your average desktop pc in terms of assembly.

There you go eh, now I know...

 

Well, you weren't the first and most likely won't be the last to do so

Spoiler

 

Obligatory reading

http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/misjahs-guide-on-how-not-to-liquid-metal-repaste.805338/

 

Misjah handled it like a man.

This would probably be my reaction

Spoiler

 

Wow, that tube of Conductonaut needs to do some more Kegels.

 

Turns out the 8086K is fried too, so I guess the non-conductive silver lining is I get to keep the 9700K...

 

I don't warn people about liquid metal to be mean or elitist, it is a pain to use and very easy for it to kill the system.

 

And in especially in a laptop, as you'd want to take safety measures (covering surfaces with kapton tape/have foam barriers around)

 

If you have common sense then yes, I'm just silly

 

Do you not have tape protection?
I did have some, but I took it off last time to delid and relid and just didn’t replace it for some reason...
I’m pretty sure my tinkering days are done, certainly at that level. I’ve left lm on my gpu for now but I’ve removed some of it to be on the safer side. I’ve fixed the stand off issue I had underneath it and I do still utilise the small fins on top of the cpu heatsink using the 2nd Gpu fan. That actually seems to make the biggest difference to my cpu temps. The 9700k runs cooler anyway it seems, although I’m not pushing it like I was the 8086k. I feel immensely sorry for anyone else who might make my mistake, especially young’ns or anyone who might not have the finances to drop on new parts or the nous/help to fix it themselves... it’s pretty stressful.

 

Spoiler

 

Indeed, do as I say, not as I do in this case

No because I am silly but also have a lot of practise on applying it.

 

I think Grizzly changed their nozzle to make it less accident prone after all these incidents.
Anyway the right way to get Conductonaut out with the old black nozzle is to very slowly twist the plunger back and forth while only applying very minimal pressure. Also it's good to get a drop out onto a napkin first, just in case. Once the first drop comes out, future applications are much easier. You should still twist the plunger regardless. The only plunger you should push in is the Kryonaut one.

 

Yeah normal paste should just squeeze out and even if it splashes its an annoyance not a heart attack inducing moment.

 

Guys,
could you propose me a 4th fan from ebay/ali which is good for the TM1 heatsink? or any options? I was propse HY60Q05AP but I cannot find on ebay/ali (I am in EU). and from where can I get 5V on km1? Thx in advance
ps: i have found in ebay (gb) - I was looking on .de)

 

Some have had issues trying to use it just to warn you.

 

I have read I will ask an engineer to do it, I am afraid to do it by myself... I do not want to risk burning my motherboard

 

Good luck then

 

I remember reading up on that. From what I gathered the 4th pin doesn't use standart layout, so the fan pinout wouldn't match. Unless you rewired it, and best bet was just to use 5v/grnd and leave the other pins unterminated.

But I don't know where you would pull 5v from on a KM1 board.

 

A sacrificial USB port is used in some machines for that kind of thing.

 

That was my guess as well. I don't know how using something like a splitter on the main fan would impact the system.

 

Main fan is 12v so not a good idea

 

That's some overdrive for a 5v fan.

 

Smoke and firework effects are really realistic too, even has smellovision

 

Spoiler

 

Sata?

 

I haven't tried it myself. But, I'd assume this could be done by having a sata male to molex female cord.
And you'd need to wire up the fan properly, as sata carries both +5v and +12v. And make sure that the fan you're using is within spec for the line you chose.

Unless you know what you're doing and have some experience, I'd strongly recommend that you reconsider if the 4-5c temp drop is worth it.

 

I use a SATA port for +5Vdc for the pump in my P370EM WC project. It used to behave weirdly, refusing to POST if the pump was connected when I pressed the power button. I installed a switch to temporarily disconnect it, which worked around the boot issue... But now it seems not to care either way and boots every time! Strange.

I also use a small step up (boost converter) taking the 5V to ~9V for an optional higher pump speed and a similar sized thing could be used to splice from the main fan 12V and step down to 5V.

DC-DC Step Down Buck Converter Module LM2596 3.2V-40V to 1.25V-35V Adjustable Power Voltage Regulator Step-down Transformer
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/dxcYIPe

I also have two 5V fans running off each GPU fan header and its been stable so far *touches wood* (because the lower delta T on the rads means water cooling a notebook needs moarrad to keep loop temps down and make it worthwhile)

 

One issue is the fan connector could be overloaded.

 

In my humble experience, a burnt out motherboard is not worth the risk. May I suggest porting airflow from the second gpu intake using a 3d printed duct and perhaps a 1u server heatsink? Obsidian’s fan control allows you to clone your cpu fan. Airflow is pulled through the extra cpu heatsink, over a 1u heatsink sitting on top of the cpu plate, out the bottom of the case, through the duct and into the 2nd gpu fan. Here’s an early trial by myself, using the carton of a beer box...
a designed plastic version does away with the need for added feet to raise the back of the laptop for airflow clearance...

 

There was guy that managed to work out extra fan for CPU heatsink. Afair he burned one MB in process but he managed to do so

 

In which order I can open the CPU & GPU heatsink.






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It's separated so it's up to you

I found it ! It looks pretty smooth in my opinion

 

Yes, i have found the fan on ebay, 20eur with shipping. The mounting of the fan is not an issue, power and wiring is rather staff... ofc i dont want to burn the mb

 

Gpu heatsink needs to come off first as it covers 2 of the cpu heatsink screws.

 

I think I have to remove the GPU side first.


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Can you mark it in the picture, well doing first time so bit scared.


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Why do you need to take it apart if I may ask?

 

CPU running hot so want check if re pasting is required.


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Think this is all of them. Before removing the CPU heatsink remember to unplug the fan, just be careful as the wires are fragile so don't try pulling them.

Spoiler

 

There is the one at the front by the end of the two heatpipes too iirc.

 

You're absolutely right! I missed that one.

 

Oh learned ones, please, your thoughts:
Now that I have rtx2080 and a 9700k, should I be upgrading psu?

Thank you.

 

Depends, how much of an overclock are you pushing on that system?

@Meaker@Sager @Papusan how much over 330w does the stock brick go, if any?

 

Have done 425w from the wall in bench from single 330w psu. The 330w is equal 412w from the wall with 80% efficiency. But letting the power adapter go at max constantly is not recommended.

 

Nice, thanks! That's actually pretty decent overdraw for the stock brick. Should suffice for the 9700k/2080 combo I reckon.