*** Official Sager NP9877 / Clevo P870TM-G Owner's Lounge! - Phoenix 4 ***

Since I updated my Windows 10 to version 1903 the fingerprint reader has huge problems to recognize my fingerprint. I'd say that the FP reader recognize my FP 1 out of 100 tries. I have tried delete and enroll my FP several times but still the same issue. Are there any new drivers for the FP reader? Anyone else has this issue? My FP reader worked great before. I'm on drivers 5.5.2706.1073

Enviado desde mi G8441 mediante Tapatalk

 

Got the little socket adapter, makes it all very easy to flash.

 

It's a neat little tool, I was going to get the SkyPro before hardmodding my 1080. But by then, the powermod already had the indirect benefit of raising the TDP, by reporting a different resistance.

 

What if you have some really tight space between the SOIC8 chip and other SMD components?
I modded mine to fit on nearly every SOIC8, like normal ones and the low profile ones, narrowed the clip pins and its more universal now.

 

If there is no space then it makes even the in place programmer hard, I had my socket fitted by a professional.

 

What would be a "normal" undervolt for this laptop? adaptive -125mV?

 

Really depends on the CPU and frequency.

 

I've been playing a little bit with -120mV and stock freq. and it's working great, ibut it stills gets too hot sometimes (over 70C), I might try to go lower but -120mV feels like it's already too much lol

How's that 2nd cpu fan mod working? does it really helps?

P.D. It's an i7 8700K

 

The way I test stability is Cinebench R15 or R20, depending if your games also use AVX. Setting the fans to max (fn+1) and logging temperature and stability with hwinfo64.
Depending on what kind of performance you're after tuning it up or down, for reference a 8086K at 5Ghz runs around -120-160mV depending on silicon quality.

The 2nd CPU fan helps with the 9th gen chips for sure, roughly 3-5c max load reduction. With a 6 core it might be better.

 

Stock voltages vary too, I'd expect the six core to benefit a little less from a second fan but be similar.

 

You really need to pair it with a few other mods before you begin to reap benefits, it's kind of like speedrunning. Where you combine several known tricks in order to drop a significant chunk of time in the end. Same is true in this case, where the 2nd fan alone wont do much by itself. However, paired with a delid, liquid metal, proper fitting thermalpads and good ihs contact will have a significant temperature reduction.

 

That all gives you the headroom to play, a bit like cars and a stock setup vs intake and intercooler then that vs a rebuilt forged engine and larger turbos.

 

Exactly my point, it does make a difference when combined with several more mods.

 

Without those steps things can also get messy.

 

Hah, yes. Smacking a large turbo on a stock engine is recipe for mantears.

 

Is there any information regarding to temperature and powerleake for CPUs/VRMs?

 

Look up the data sheets and the curve will guide you. Just multiply by the number in the system.

 

Is the VR temp in hwinfo64 accurately reporting the CPU VRM temp, or did I misunderstand something?

 

It read it on my old DM board. But have seen the temp values isn’t accurate on newer board (temp won’t change with load).

 

I get the readout as well, ranges from ~50c to 55c max from 10min FS physics loop. Not sure whether this was an accurate readout.

 

Unlikely at those values.

 

I'd expect them to be 75-90c range, but they are cooled since a part of the TM1 heatsink. So I'm interested in what that 55c might actually be.

 

Probably just dud readings or not calibrated.

 

I'll have a look at the schematics and see whether I can find where that sensor is.

 

Might be hooking into the chips themselves, I cant remember if they have a sense pin.

 

From the looks of it temperature seems to be the right sensor for VRM's. I'll have to see what an extended AVX load drives them up in temperature.

 

Man, this was a blast from the past for me. Struggling to cool the 9900k 4.8Ghz at 87c. And today we're VC chilling at 73c R15 at 5Ghz. Hopefully I can read this exact post in 6 months and laugh at the idea of believing that 73c was the best we could do.

 

The tweaker urge to ever tweak

 

Tweaker the movie: Always be Tweakin'

 

I can totally see Tommy Wiseau in the main role.
"It did not throttle, it's not true! It's ********! It did not throttle! It did not! Oh hi, Meaker."

 

I was thinking about getting a K-type thermometer to check the VRM temps.

 

It can be tricky to get absolute readings, though relative is easier.

 

Should give an idea whether the vrm sensor reporting 55c is actually telling us the truth.

 

Yeah, I am guessing not, there should be a wide load/idle gap.

 

Gone are the days where you could probe the VRMs with your finger.

 

Maybe a finger on the PCB near it? We could just go back to the days when nothing had a heatsink

 

No way of doing that with the TM1 heatsink mounted on, even the underside is not accessible beneath the keyboard. I haven't seen any weird behavior or clock drops running 5G on prolonged gaming sessions, so temps should be within reason and spec.

 

Me neither with the 8086k.

 

Hey guys, any idea if the Nvidia RTX 2070/2080 gpu would fit inside my Sager NP9877?

 

You will need to mod the heatsink since the cards layout is different, and have Prema bios AFAIK.

 

Yes minor modifications and a custom bios is required. The upgrade cost is also a bit prohibitive given the performance benefit.

 

Hey guys, Im just wondering if anyone has an easy guide to thoroughly uninstalling/deleting XTU crap. I know Ive seen it somewhere, I just cant remember. Someone was giving instruction to really really make sure its not fuxing stuff up...
I have used XTU in the past and had weird horrible throttling, so uninstalled it, and everyone went back to normal. I use Throttlestop now, but get the occasional crash, so before going back to the drawing board I thought I might just get rid of it properly...

EDIT: Actually XTU interface was enabled in Bios. Not sure how I managed that as I was certain it wasnt, but now I will resume testing and see what happens...

 

My solution was a complete Win reinstall, not ideal. But after uninstalling it check whether any services are left running, then simply disable them. From what I recall, I also did cmos reset to remove any remnants of XTU settings.

 

Whenever I've eventually jettisoned XTU after using it to fine tune a CPU before moving final settings either to BIOS or TS, I always wipe the drive, give it a full CMOS clear and do a clean install.

 

It's a surefire way to get rid of any hidden wackiness. Same goes for CCC, locking your fn+1 to 80% fan speed instead of max.

 

It's like clearing the nvram when doing memory overclocking. After initial reset, stuff gets populated that might actually hinder stability or OC, when you begin to tweak the settings.
And you don't understand why all of a sudden stability goes out the window, when it worked just fine before.

Knowing these quirks makes you appreciate having fewer things to troubleshoot.

 

Here's hoping this baby can support 3080.

 

That would be a very welcome upgrade...albeit I downgraded mine from a 1080 to a 1060 to pocket the $$$ and my on the go gaming needs are modest (WoW and Diablo 3 atm).

But seeing as there isn't really a 10th gen or Ryzen DTR that has caught my eye or need, the idea of getting a 3080 working is nice to have in your back pocket.

 

The 1060 is not a bad hold over card but that's some beast to move around for that

 

Think you meant 1080, and yes I agree. 2080S would have to be very competitively priced before I would even think about swapping mine out.