2013 Series 7 chronos / Ativ Book 8 15" owner's lounge (NP770Z5E / NP780Z5E / NP870Z5E / NP880Z5E)

My laptop that I'm waiting for is:
ATIV Book 6 15.6in. TouchScreen 1TB, Intel Core i7 3rd Gen., 2.4GHz, 8GB, NP680Z5E-X01US

So which is it? 8GB soldered in or 4GB soldered in and 4GB in slot?

 

I answered my own question. Went to the Samsung site for specs and got this:

RAM

• Memory Speed
  1600 MHz
• Memory Specification Compliance
  PC3-12800
• Configuration Features
  provided memory is soldered
• Technology
  DDR3 SDRAM
• Installed Size
  8 GB

And here:
http://www.samsung.com/us/computer/pcs/NP680Z5E-X01US-specs
it says:
SYSTEM MEMORY
System Memory
8GB
Memory Configuration 8GB x 1 (On Board)
Memory Type DDR3 (1600MHz)
Max. System Memory 16GB
Number of Slots 1
RAMaccelerator Yes

I'm presuming that means soldered.

Notebook Check makes it even clearer:
https://www.notebookcheck.net/Review-Samsung-ATIV-Book-6-Touch-680Z5E-X01US-Notebook.103287.0.html

RAM is provided by a single 8 GB PC3-12800 DDR3 module, which is soldered onto the motherboard. One slot is open, however, so the notebook can be expanded to 16 GB total

 

It looks to be a stock 8GB solder with one expandable dimm. It seems it is expandable by another 8GB for a total of 16 GB.

http://www.samsung.com/us/computer/pcs/NP680Z5E-X01US-specs

 

So I'm in luck as I will just take out the 8GB memory I have in my Lenovo Ideapad y410p laptop and put it in my new one. I'm pretty sure it will work as I had it in my Samsung Ultrabook for a while, but now that I'm selling that laptop, I took it out and put in a 4GB one I had laying around. This is the 8GB memory I have:
Micron 8GB 2RX8 PC3L-128000S-11-13-FP MT16KTF1G64HZ-1G6E1 memory

 

looks good.

 

When I get my laptop tomorrow, how do I go about installing my new SSD? I want to end up with Windows 10. Clone the old drive over which is a clean install, then upgrade to Windows 10 or go straight to Windows 10.

 

Personally I would just clean install Win10. But do make sure to check this thread and our Win10 thread (Samsung forum sticky) for any Win10 info specific to the Book 6/8 series regarding drivers. Display drivers for these models are known to be a challenge.

Our Samsung forum sticky list (stickied, of course) also contains the following link to a guide earlier in this thread. It is based on Win8 and doesn't factor in a Win10 upgrade.

Cloning or re-imaging a new SSD/HDD

I notice you also posted in the Book 6 thread, but that thread never really took off, and your model is sufficiently similar to Book 8 that I would suggest you just focus on this thread here. Far better chance of reaching other Book 6/8 owners.

I hope you enjoy your Book 6. Sounds like it will be great with the updates you have described!

 

I'm still waiting for my Samsung ATIV Book 6 15.6" 1920x1080, TouchScreen 1TB, Intel Core i7, 16GB DDR3 RAM, AMD Radeon HD 8770M Graphics, NP680Z5E-X01US and I just received my

• Samsung 850 EVO 250GB 2.5-Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-75E250B/AM) .
• Sata3 to USB Converter.

I want to clone my HDD into the SDD with the Sata3 to USB Converter. How is the best way to do that? The laptop HDD has been put back to factory settings with Win8, so I plan to clone that, then upgrade to Windows 10 from there. I think this is easier than trying to go straight to Windows 10. When the laptop gets here, (it is stuck in California for past several days, saying delayed on tracking) I will check to see just what is on the HDD, clean install or?

 

@jack53: Again, check the link in my last post. It describes the different ways of cloning or re-imaging a new drive.

 

Unless I was missing something, I didn't see anything on using my Sata3 to USB Converter to clone my HDD into the SDD. I will go look again.

BTW, looks like my laptop finally arrived at the Tacoma PO.

 

Very glad to hear they found your laptop and it wasn't lost after all!

Options (1) and (2) in that guide I linked are precisely for cloning with an external USB enclosure (or USB-SATA adapter in your case) using either 3rd party software or Samsung Recovery Solution.

I suggest using the cloning software which I assume came with your SSD. It should automatically shrink partitions on the HDD to fit the smaller SSD. SRS will probably not work on the new SSD (3rd party cloning utilities tend to break SRS). Given the limited size of your SSD, I would just delete those partitions (SAMSUNG_REC and SAMSUNG_REC2) and either expand the Windows partition to utilize the space or leave it unallocated as over provisioning for the SSD.

Alternatively you can use the Copy Disk feature in SRS, which will give you working SRS on the new SSD. But you need to shrink your Windows partition first to make sure all partitions fit on the SSD.

Once again, I would personally choose option (4) in that guide: Clean install Windows on the blank SSD and leave SRS on the original HDD. Use @Obyboby's excellent guide in the OP if you choose this route.

 

Ah... I didn't put together the USB enclosure part, being like my usb-sata adapter. I'm going to go read everything you said, take my time and do it right... no hurry. Probably do this tomorrow after studying the options. Thanks for your help!

Now I'm getting excited waiting for the mailman to get here:
Here is my rant: I was suppose to get this last Saturday!
You will see here it was shipped a week ago. Went 240 miles the wrong way south to LA, (I live north in Tacoma) then took five days more to get to me. I've NEVER had a package take more than three days from CA. In fact my SSD came from same area and I got that in TWO days. Heck, I had packages come from back east get here quicker. I guess I should be happy it's not lost. Actually they goofed again as I told them yesterday I'd come there to pick it up.

 

Finally!!! It came after one week. The guy I bought it from wasn't kidding when he said MINT. I looked real hard and didn't find a scratch, scuff, smudge anywhere, except a few small ones on the bottom which is normal. Right now I'm doing setup & updates as it came like it did from from the factory. This is taking awhile, so I'll post some pics. It came in original box. It sure looks like Cobalt Blue to me.

 

Awesome, congrats! I'd say don't paint this one sparkly red

 

Ok... purple then!


Or this

Or something completely different! For the time being I'll leave it alone as I kinda like the Cobalt Blue look.

 

I did all the updates, took a while. Now installing Win8.1
For my SSD, I don't have Windows 10 and I'd like the pro version. Is this a good way to get one?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/WINDOWS-10-...536399&hash=item1a2ea922a5:g:DbAAAOSwXetZS0z-

 

OK, a problem? After I updated to Win 8.1 my display is a LOT dimmer. I went into the settings for display and battery and plugged in brightness is at 100%. Now I just discovered that adjusting the brightness to 50% or lower makes no change at all, the same dull brightness at any settings.

It was twice as bright in Win 8. What happened here? Is this a driver problem?
Update: I updated my Display driver, GPU and nothing changed.

 

Isnt your laptop in silent mode?

Enviado do meu Redmi 4 através de Tapatalk

 

What is silent mode?

 

A possible culprit is Samsung Settings. Try (re)installing the Windows 8.1 version of Settings as it does a lot of one-off configurations during the installation and these might have been lost during the update. If that doesn't work then try the Windows 8 version.

John

PS: Silent mode is an option (Fn+?) which reduces fan activity. However, Samsung failed to mention that it achieves this by throttling the performance.

 

OK, how do it do that? This is strange, I had the laptop turned off a couple hours and when I turned it on, it was fine, everything nice and bright. I turned it off to go do something, when I turned it back on, it is not bright anymore, dull at about 50%??? Just guessing as I can turn it up or down, it's fixed at this brightness. Does this throttling your talking about effect that? I haven't played with the FN keys since updating to Win8.1

 

Broken brightness control is a common problem - read back through this thread for discussion of fixes. The root problem is that a module in Samsung Settings reads the Fn key brightness commands and interacts with the Samsung version of the graphics driver (I don't know why this is so convoluted - the BIOS hands the backlight brightness).

Can you change the brightness in Settings (Fn + F1) and do other Samsung specific Fn key controls work?

John

 

OK, First
Fn+F1 is to launch settings. Don't work
Brightness is Fn+F2-3 Don't work
Keyboard light Fn-F9-10 Don't work (No light at all.)
In fact none of them work.

Strange too as when I turned the laptop on this time, the screen is bright like it's suppose to be, can't change it though even in the left side charms settings app
UPDATE: I turned it off to go into BIOS, then when exited, Brightness is back to dim again.

 

OK, there is no SW Update on my laptop. So I downloaded it and when I used it for the first time, it said there were 3 updates available:

Airplane Mode Control Driver
Win8.1 Brightness Control Patch
Graphic Driver

Maybe this will solve my problems... I'll update after trying those.

 

@Jack 53: Just saw this. I apologize for mentioning the obvious, but did you disable Adaptive Brightness in Samsung Settings?

And regarding Silent Mode, you generally want if OFF in Settings, not on AUTO.

Both of these are classic Samsung gotchas. About a thousand posts about them in this and other threads. I can post some links this weekend when I get to PC.

The Book 8 (and presumably 6 as well) was always even more tricky with Brightness control than other Samsungs, hence the patch you found. There is also a Registry fix in this thread.

 

I shut off Adaptive Brightness in Samsung Settings for Performance mode, but left it on for the other two settings.
Haven't tried the silent mode yet.

With the new Graphic driver, it seems to fix the problem... really, really bright like it's suppose to be and why I wanted this laptop. However the Win8.1 Brightness Control Patch failed, so it's reinstalling it again right now. Update: Failed again, so I'll try it again tomorrow... I will write down what it said to try if it failed a 3rd time. Something about doing it manually.

I'm thinking of getting this Win10 pro off eBay and doing a clean install like you suggested.
Microsoft Windows 10 Pro Professional 32/64 Bit USB Flash
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Microsoft-W...399049?hash=item2a8655d749:g:YbMAAOSwSlBY2pkM
Maybe everything will run better with Win10?
What do you think?

 

Follow John Ratsey advice. We've all had problems with brightnes and the solution is buried inside this thread.

If you want to install windows 10 on this laptop just download the installer directly from microsoft.

By the way, you have a different laptop that the one we are discussing in this thread.

 

You are making progress. Have a look for the registry edit which is discussed not far back up this thread and give that a try.

John

 

Uh... as you can see Dannemand told me this is the place to be

 

Yeah you should be OK with any of the answers to software problems discussed in this thread. Again, Book 6 and 8 are basically the same platform with some differences in LCD panel and battery (as I recall).

So yes, this is the place to be.

 

Ok, so be it.

The solution we have for the np770 is this one

-----------------------------------------------------------
Wanted to post the solution provided on the link John Ratsey provided
Quote:

"I was struggling with the same problem with my Samsung 770Z5E for many many long monthes,
and none of the possible solutions indicated so far worked for me. Until today, when I found a solution on another similar thread:

http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/...ics-4000/64c255eb-517f-44d7-8af3-b5cfd7c4b79d



In my case the problem was solved by setting the value of

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\ControlSet001\Control\Class\{4d36e968-e325-11ce-bfc1-08002be10318}\0001] "FeatureTestControl"
to "f008". I'm using the latest Intel drivers."

In my case I have an external VGA, so I didn't had any luck wich 0000. In 0001 the wasn't any "FeatureTestControl" option,
but in 0002 I had luck. As written above, many thanks to John for keeping us updated with solutions to our problems in so many years.

Great notebook by the way.
------------------------------------------------------

for this solution to work ou also need the appropiate drivers.

In windows 10, I'm currently using
AMD Radeon R9 M200X Series / 24-04-2017 / 22.19.162.4
Intel(R) HD Graphics 4000 / 17-08-2015 / 10.18.10.4276

If you need more help let me know

 

I finally got it installed by going into service.msc/SW Update Service and stopping it and putting it into manual, ran Win8.1 Brightness Control Patch which I had saved in another folder, rebooted and viola, it installed. Then I turn the SW Service back on.

BTW, any way to get the Windows 10 for free? I don't really like paying $100 plus for it.

 

Has anyone with the dead GPU issue successfully upgraded to the Creators version? I know the dead GPU and the drivers etc. was a major issue last time and when I tried it once this time it failed and I had to recover. Or is a fresh install the only workaround? (That's what worked last time for me)

 

There was an entire discussion here about the merits of upgrading Win8.1 to Win10, and economical ways of doing so. I took the liberty of moving it to our Samsung Win10 sticky thread (starting here) since it really was a bit off topic for this NP770/780/870/880 Owner's thread -- and had relevance for a broader audience.

 

OK, new problem with my Samsung Book 6 Win 8.1.
I used the USB 3.0 to SATA adapter to clone my old Samsung 1TB ST1000LMo34 HDD to the new Samsung V-Nand SSD EVO. That worked perfectly.

But, I wanted to use the 1TB HDD to store files, photo's etc to save space on the SSD. The 1TB HDD don't work with the USB 3.0 to SATA adapter or Orico SATA HDD Docking station I have on the Samsung Book 6??? Both work on the two other laptops I have; Lenovo running Win 8.1 & Samsung running Win 10. So nothing wrong with the 1TB HDD. What do I need to do to make this work with my Samsung Book 6 running Win 8.1?

Strange thing is my older backup 500GB WD HDD shows up with the USB 3.0 to SATA adapter or Orico SATA HDD Docking station. So why that HDD is seen and not the other HDD I have? I really want to use the HDD that came with the laptop.

 

Admin should stick this in the frontpage since I understand many users (including one of my np770 laptops) are having this problem.

 

More than likely when you cloned the drive you also cloned the drive ID. If you did there is an id conflict and they will not see it when the other boots. you need to change the drive ID number.

https://www.howtohaven.com/system/change-disk-signature.shtml

 

Indeed, we have had a few people wanting to disable their GPU, either because it was defect or because they couldn't get the drivers working properly. So I added @tqbinh's guide to the Opening Post of this thread. Thank you for the suggestion.

Member @pranktank did an amazing job of updating his OP for a long time after creating this thread. But that is over 4 years ago, and we don't have enough moderator capacity to continue updating OPs after thread owners leave. It is not a matter of principle -- after all our main function here is to help preserve the valuable information posted by members. It's merely a matter of practicality. I mention it only because I know that requests like this will often end up being ignored.

 

Until I change the ID, I accessed the HDD this way:

• Start the PC.

• Click Start.

• Enter diskmgmt.msc and press Enter to open Disk Management.

• Right-click the disk that's marked as Missing or Offline.

• Click Online.

 

If the drive goes online it may not be a ID conflict.

 

It went online... so if not an ID conflict, why is it doing that?

 

I have modded my BIOS, but am unable to flash it. Whenever I use Afudos from within a bootable USB drive and flash with the /GAN flag it says it flashes successfully, but nothing is actually changing. Anyone else with a similar issue?

Edit: Hm, after having been laying in a drawer for half a year the GPU seems to all of a sudden just work again. No crashes, no issues. Not even when stress testing. There are two changes: I have a different power adapter, and there is a new Windows build and new AMD drivers on there.

I would expect the heating up and heating down of stress testing to make the issues reappear if it had to do with the BGA connections, right? Could it have been a driver issue after all? When I still used the laptop I had the crashing issue every day for half a year...

 

If you changed the ID first then it will allow it to go online, that is expected. If before anything it just is not going on line and staying online, then there is another issue.

 

Hi TANWare,

Is it possible to add this very useful link from page "603" on the first page please?

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...5e-np780z5e-np870z5e-np880z5e.713184/page-603

This link sorts out the brightness issue using a simple registry fix for windows 8.

Credit to Picpic12.

 

Hello,

I have the NP870Z5E model with 16 Gb ram, I just unplugged my RAM HyperX Impact 8GB (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KQCOTCM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00) but when I plugged again it wasn't detected in Bios

My Bios version is P05ADH, I tried to downgrade to P03ADH but its always the same : Slot 1 not installed


Any Help please ?


PS : Sorry for my bad english

 

Hello guys,

I know the thread must be pretty dormant but hopefully somebody that still has the notebook can help me out. I have the NP870Z5E with the 3635QM and the ATI HD8870. I'd like to install Win10 and upgrade to a SSD over the weekend. Most likely I will do a clean install so what drivers would you recommend getting?

Another thing, I spilled coke over the keyboard last month and the laptop was not booting. Opened it up, cleaned it with alcohol, left it for a week (was on holidays the next morning) and it has been working again, however the keyboard is all mushy and sticky. Anyone has experience on how to clean it? The keyboard itself did not have screws but sticky rubber feets.

THANK YOU!

 

Once, I spilled orange juice on my old Thinkpad and the only way I could find was to remove each key that was sticky and then clean them individually. It took a long time so I only removed the keys which were particularly sticky. Either that, or sometimes you can purchase a replacement keyboard on eBay or so.

Once, maybe twenty years ago a kid at school threw up on a keyboard (ancient Macintosh) and the teacher just unplugged the keyboard then ran it under a tap and left it to dry. I didn't follow up to check the state of the keyboard afterwards.

 

I have the exact same issue... the BIOS menu not changing despite successful operation. But I'm not as lucky as you with a working GPU . Does anyone perhaps have an idea of what is wrong or is it perhaps my error in AMIBCP?

EDIT: Ok, so what I did was modify the required settings WITHIN Amibcp, and flashed that BIOS. So now I would like to know from those who did do it successfully if there is a way to verify whether my AMD GPU is successfully disabled. How would I see it for example in Device Manager?

 

If GPU-z can't see it (check the pull-down list near the bottom of the GPU-z screen) then it's likely to be disabled.

John

 

It is displaying in GPU-Z, but the weird thing is that if I use the BIOS backup tool provided in that process, the settings of my BIOS do contain the changes I made, i.e. it has flashed successfully with the required settings. So now I'm really lost as to what I'm supposed to do. That said, I will try and update my Windows again and see if the bootloop happens