The ThrottleStop Guide

Use WUMT to disable Win updates completely. As for DPTF, go to power options and you should set it 45/56W TDP.
Uncheck BDPROCHOT,Speedstep and check off Speedshift(with EPP values set to 128 and Speedshift options enabled in TPL) and see if it helps.

 

Thanks for suggesting WUMT, I am able to finally manage my updates with this, I was able to successfully hide the DPTF update with it.
For the DPTF option under power options (Uninstalling the DPTF also remove these options, so I do not have them anymore) I do not get the 45/56W TDP option; only (45W at 2.5Ghz) and (35W at 1.6Ghz).
As for the TS options, I've pretty much tried them all. The only one that "works" (if you can can even call that a solution, thanks Dell!) is disabling turbo. If turbo is disabled, it will never power limit throttle.

 

Disabling the turbo to get the no throttling is actually not a solution but nothing you can do for the DELL's good design. DELL & HP...

 

Sorry it was a typo. Its either 452/35w. Never disable turbo boost. Ask around dell forums for a solution. Try asking @custom90gt if you have issues with XPS laptop thermal issues.

 

Done installing Intel XTU and you're right again, same result Power Limit Throttling . Does it mean I'm stuck with this PL throttling?
I would also like to ask what could be causing it to hit the PL limit since its not the temp?



Edit:
Sorry for the confusion as I forgot to mention the machine I'm testing with is Acer Predator Helios 300

Tried 56 and beyond. Still nothing

 

There was a custom modification done by one of the users on this forum.. The VRM's are not covered at all with Thermal pads touching the heatsink. The VRM's are possibly taking to much strain and cant be cooled properly so they overheat and cause the flag. The VRM's and Mosfets have to be cooled properly with Thermal pads such as Arctic or Fujipoly. It was a bad design from Dell's part unfortunately

 

Your CPU is a fully locked down BGA chip. You're limited by force to 45W long term power limit and 56W short term power limit.
There is no way to avoid this, unless there is a way to access advanced Bios menus, either by hacking or by force, and only then if the options to tweak the power reporting is available.

The only laptops that can bypass the 45W long term power limit are MSI BGAbooks, only because MSI left the Bios able to be unlocked in several ways (4 finger salute combo, or AMIBCP 5.02 + FPTW64 to dump the Bios--note the AMIBCP+FPTW64 method only works if you can disable "Bios Lock" via a very complicated method involving getting the hex offsets for Bios Lock with UEFITool, and Universal IFR Extractor, then booting to a RU efi prompt (bios lock is NOT the same as bios guard! if you have Bios guard enabled you're..um...done).

On current MSIbooks and previous eVGAbooks, you can bypass the TDP limits by changing IMON SLOPE and IMON OFFSET. Imon slope less than 100 (100= 1.0x) makes the CPU report a TDP by a percentage factor of the Imon slope, and Imon offset is some scaling value, usually capped at negative (-) 31999, as setting it to 32000 is the same as setting it to 0 for some reason.

You can make CPU drawing 120W report less than 50W this way.

The Embedded Controller still has to allow for higher than base TDP to even be allowed; in some MSIbooks that do not have an unlocked CPU SKU available on that Bios (some of their mainboards have both unlocked and locked CPU's on the same mainboard, using the exact same EC and Bios), sometimes even Imon slope=50 and Imon offset=-31999 won't save you. While these tweaks worked for EVERYONE with a MSI GS65 and MSI GP63 and GT75 6 core laptop, someone with an older GE62 said he was TDP throttling even though the CPU reported 10W at full load.

 

Thank you so much for helping me understand this.

 

Hello guys,

When I open my throttlestop, I see that Analog I/O is set to +125mV, Shall I change it or keep it as it is? Does it have some effect to temperature?

 

I dont think it's a good idea to increase the voltage for Analog I/O. Normally @unclewebb advises us to not change the default and just undervolt Core and Cache areas only. These two effect the temperature the most. I would personally change Analog I/O to 0 (default) or undervolt it rather than Increase voltage. I have only changed Core and Cache myself. Good luck

 

Did you change uncore offset in your bios?

 

Hello,

I didnt change anything in my BIOS.

First I used XTU to find out how much I can undervolt, then changed it to the stock and uninstall it. Then I installed throttlestop and it is what I had. As a stock CPU core and cache were +20, and Analog I/O was +125

Laptop is Asus G703VI

 

On a stock CPU, all 3 of those settings are zero. Either your bios set those or Intel XTU did. I would have a look in the Task Manager and make sure that there are no Intel XTU remnants still running in the background. Do a full shutdown, not a hybrid shutdown. Before running ThrottleStop, delete the ThrottleStop.INI config file. When ThrottleStop starts, it will create a new config file and for default values, it will use whatever your CPU is set to. A positive offset for core and cache is not a good sign. Not sure why a bios would use settings like that. Intel CPUs never need more than default voltage. They always need less. That is why under volting is popular.

 

Hi,

Thank you for the answer.

I set ''standard'' instead of ''extreme'' at ROG Gaming Center and uninstalled it. Then I installed XTU and interestingly first thing I saw there was +20 CPU voltage offset. I didn't know about Analog I/O. Anyway, I made ''default'' settings with XTU and unistalled it. I was very surprised with +125 Analog I/O. Can I check somehow original figures from BIOS If I somehow changed it?

 

With almost locked down bios, Nope. I would uninstall the Asus software and clear NVRAM. Maybe put bios default first. And start clean. Then fire up TS and see what default settings will be showed.

 

What do you mean with Asus Software? Rog Gaming Center? It is already uninstalled in the beginning. If I format my laptop, I think I will get original figures, right?

One thing to mention, only thing I did at BIOS is updating it.

If I will see these +20 cpu offset voltage, and analog i/o +125, should I worry? Do you think that it will cause problem for me?

FYI, currently my laptop works -105mv cpu offset voltage and analog i/o is set as 0.

 

Yeah, I expect Rog Gaming center also contain Asus own overclocking tool(settings for Cpu). Or have Asus other tool for this?

The reason I said clear NVRAM/ put default in bios... Could be that XTU has screwed up bios settings.

Default bios settings should show exactly “default Cpu voltage” settings or Asus engineers have done something nasty in their firmware. I don’t know, I don’t have this laptop.

 

So cleaning NVRAM will put BIOS default. Sorry, it is not easy to understand for me always. I would say only Asus software can screw things up.

 

Bad settings can be stored in NVRAM. Put bios to default doesn’t always help. Google how to do it for your particular notebook. Try put default settings in bios and see how it goes first. Then run ThrottleStop again(delete TS ini file first in TS folder for starting on scratch). Do this before you fiddle with bios settings. Then read what Cpu settings TS will show once you start it.

Edit.
I post from my phone so maybe @Falkentyne or other can explain better if you still don’t understand.

 

ok, i'm relatively new to the whole Throttlestop schtick, but, undervolting seems pretty self-explanatory and getting lower temps on my laptop sounds excellent. so, after i undervolt and make sure the computer it stable, i hit ok and everything seems fine. it seemed to work perfectly, but... my question is, after i end up restarting my pc and don't have Throttlestop starting automatically, how can i tell if the undervolting is still being applied? i have Turn On in the bottom left of the main window selected, so, I'd hazard a guess that its working, correct? i'm just unsure. i just wanna make sure this is still working.

 

Really hard to answer questions when you do not post any pictures of how you have ThrottleStop setup. I don't even know what CPU model you have.

Simple. If you do not start ThrottleStop, your under volt will not be applied. Use a monitoring tool like HWiNFO or CPUID HWMonitor to monitor your voltages. When ThrottleStop is running, open up the FIVR window and it will show you what your voltages are set to in the monitoring table at the top right.

If you want to use ThrottleStop and you always want your voltages to be applied, you will need to add ThrottleStop to your Windows start up sequence. Go to the second post in this long thread for a guide to add ThrottleStop to your Windows start up using the Task Scheduler.

http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/the-throttlestop-guide.531329/#post-6865107

The Turn On button only applies to the Clock Modulation and Set Multiplier settings. Both of these settings are rarely needed on new CPUs so for many users, that button is obsolete. Voltages will be applied regardless of the state of this button. Monitoring your voltages will show this.

 

I have been chatting with @sniffin who has the same laptop and he has also +20mv offset voltage and analog +125mv as stock values. It seems that it is standard for our Asus G703VI.

 

Thanks for reply.

If this is correct I would fill out a support ticket once and ask Asus tech support why in hell is it needed with added aka over voltage on stock Intel processors in their Notebook models.

I expect you talking about stock default clock speed and not some sort of useless overclock profile as in the Alienware’s.

 

From the review of your AsusBook it seems Asus add in overclock(via bios?). I would check out and run my suggested steps. See picture of Hwmonitor in the review.

As I mentioned be sure we talk about Stock Default clock speed.

 

If every laptop of this model gets the same setting, it should be the default value which is set by the manufacturer by means of BIOS programming.

As my experience working in motherboard/BIOS field long time ago, the main purpose to do something special settings are to make the system stable to fulfill the standard specification and to pass some certain tests such as FCC, EMC, etc. to eligible to sell their products. Of course, there is a chance that there is something wrong in BIOS programming or setting but it is absolutely not easy to happen.

Well, you can make the ticket to ASUS, but actually, it is not any kind of technical issue to affect the system stability to let the laptop unusable or affect any user experience, as well as, if they really intend to do it because of the above reason, they will not reply to you or just reply something you do not prefer to get so end up there is no any solution to you. That is what I expected. However, of course, it is not the unique situation you will get so you go to try to make the ticket is better than none.

 

I am sure it is something standard for our model.

My question is, shall I keep analog I/O as it is with +125mV or set it as zero. Does that part effect somehow temperature or performance?

 

Analog I/O voltage is the driver voltage of I/O pin of the Analog part. +125mV, that is +0.125V, will not get any harm to the CPU. It will not cause any significant heat and it will only affect the margin of the clock it can run stable, that is the margin you can overclock. However, since it is the analog part not the digital part, how much effect it can make out I also do not know.

Anyway, I do not think it will affect the performance and temperature of the CPU.

 

On Skylake, Kabylake and Coffee lake (all the same basic tech), Analog I/O voltage is "Uncore". @unclewebb doesn't have proper documentation of Intel chipset design changes.
Many people have tested this, when they have an unlocked Bios. Change uncore offset to +100, save, exit, load throttlestop and notice TS says Analog voltage is +100.

 

Asus add it to stabilize the fabric overclock. None of the notebook OEM manufactures should implement own home created Cpu settings in bios or code it into firmware. A trash solution!! How in hell can they determine what’s best voltage settings for every INTEL BGA chips soldered on their MB?

 

My evga turdbook has +200 by default under uncore in BIOS which translates to +200 in Analog I/0 in TS. I did notice USB external Hard drive instability when setting it to 0.

 

Ow.
What would happen if i undervolted uncore by -200mv ?

 

Same question.
I have it undervolted to -74.3mV on my Helios 300.
The default offset is 0.

 

That is correct. I finally found some more info to back this up so I plan to fix the heading labels in the FIVR window for the next release.

For Skylake and later:
Where ThrottleStop currently shows System Agent in the monitoring table, that is actually the Intel iGPU UnSlice voltage.
Where ThrottleStop currently shows Analog I/O in the monitoring table, that is actually the System Agent / Uncore voltage.

 

Brother @unclewebb
Do you know what exactly is the difference between "Sliced" iGPU voltage and "Unsliced"?
What sort of demented soul made up those terms anyway?

 

https://arstechnica.com/gadgets/201...re-intel-is-still-gunning-for-dedicated-gpus/

"The GPUs are built from “slices,” each of which usually contains a total of three “subslices.” The subslices usually contain eight “execution units” (EUs) that do the bulk of the processing, texture samplers responsible for grabbing data from memory and passing it on to the EUs, and a few other components. The GPUs also include an “unslice,” a piece outside of the slices that handles fixed geometry and some media functions.

All of this high-level stuff is the same in Skylake as it was in Broadwell, but Intel has made a few specific tweaks. For one, the unslice now has a separate power and clock domain completely independent of the other slices. This means if, say, you’re just using the hardware encoding and decoding capabilities of the unslice, you can completely shut all of the slices down and save power. Additionally, the unslice can run at a higher or lower rate than the slices, improving performance or power usage depending on the specific task you’re doing."

 

@raz8020 - I never thought an answer was possible. I was thinking that slice terminology might be some sort of inside joke. I could see the engineers working late into the night and having to order in some pizzas when suddenly the light went on. Let's break this new GPU into sections. Good idea. We will call them slices. Ha ha ha!

Now that I do not have to figure this out, I can spend more time working on ThrottleStop today. Thanks.

 

However you slice it…Damn happy the proper laptops with LGA have the sliced Intel parts deactivated +rep

 

Great and useful information. Thanks unclewebb and raz8020. Thus, Analog I/O is the System Agent / Uncore voltage and related the Intel iGPU UnSlice voltage. That is all of them are all iGPU related matter. Thus, @PredatoR_TR, you can try to adjust them (iGPU+System Agent+Analog I/O) back to zero or even undervolt to run the 3D stress tests programs and graphics testing programs such as OCCT to check it can run in stable and without any error in order to get CPU cooler.

 

Since iGPU is deactivated on my laptop, then Analog I/O is totally useless for me, do I understand correct?

 

System Agent Voltage is the voltage for things like the integrated memory controller. Upping it a bit can help stabilize high Ram speed (memory overclocking) etc. See... Analog I/O in the monitoring table, that is actually the System Agent/Uncore voltage.

Edit. I expect Asus Engineers don't trust use of faster ram than minimum stock ram speed for their Skylake/Kabylake BGA MB. Probably the same for their current Coffee lake MB as well. Go back and see my previous post #8387

 

Sorry I missed this point. Thus, it is really not important what the setting of this voltage is since the heavy workload will be done by the dGPU only. Therefore, the iGPU is not the main source of the heat dissipation in the CPU. In this case, I would prefer to remain unchanged in this offset voltage in order to get the best stability designed by the manufacturer since we do not know what the actual purpose is.

 

I tried unlocking some hidden menus in my HP Spectre 13 so maybe I can mess with some things. I used the official tools from AMI to unlock menus. I saved the "customized" bios to the EFI recovery partition and started a bios recovery to get the laptop to force flash my modified bios file. The updated bios version reflects my custom version when i get into the BIOS and UEFI but doesn't show any menus yet.. I'm hoping to get this working safely so i can disable DPTF and mess with power limits which I clearly see in my bios file. I'll let everyone know when I am successful. Hopefully not too off topic lol

 

Did you set the menus to "USER" or "SUPERVISOR"?

 

I set the relevant ones to "USER"

EDIT: I'm not even sure if this method works. My laptop seems to look for a .sig file and won't flash without it. I can't be sure if saving the BIOS with those menus set to a different access type changes the BIOS in a way that the .sig files becomes useless..(it doesn't seem to complain at all) Modifying the menus don't seem to change the BIOS size at all. And I know for a fact It's flashing the one I enabled menus on because I can reopen it in MMTool and it clearly shows then menus items set to "USER". Just trial and error because a quick search shows this method hasn't been tried

 

Have you tried using FPTW64 to create a local backup of your Bios, then using AMIBCP to edit that backup, and then reflashing with FPTW64 ?

You want the proper CSME system tools that has the compatible FPTW64 for your system (it's included in the package). If you can run successfully, FPTW64 -d mybackup.bin -bios (-d is for dump and -bios is VERY IMPORTANT, it says only to dump the BIOS REGION only), then maybe you can flash it back with "-f".

https://www.win-raid.com/t596f39-Intel-Management-Engine-Drivers-Firmware-amp-System-Tools.html

 

Sorry not MMTool, AMIBCP. my mistake.

No I haven't tried that method But will now lol

So in my research I have come across some of this info but this is a lot more information you made me aware of. As far as making sure to only backup and flash the BIOS, I understand this is important. My creative way to be sure i don't brick it was to use HP's own tools to "recover" the bios to my modded one lol since I verified it only only does the BIOS regardless if the .bin file includes the ME or not. Which is kinda cool cause this makes it very hard to brick. I've flashed bad BIOSes to this machine in the past and a simple flash drive with the bios recovery software recovers it with 100% success lol

So with this new information you've gave I can try different avenues and report back.

My goal is to be able to let Throttle Stop control my CPU (not HP hehe)

Thanks for all that , Falkentyne!

 

Cool, so I used "Intel CSME System Tools v11 r14 " and dumped my BIOS and opened it up just fine in AMIBCP. That's a good first step as I haven't been able to do that before. The BIOS tools for my version of firmware always stated something along the lines of "This system doesn't support *insert tool name here*" lol

What I will do next is try to flash back the dump without making any changes and see what it does

 

"failed to disable write protection in the BIOS space" I'm not surprised, HP has this thing so locked up. I flashed back to the oldest BIOS I could (the spectre/meltdown bug patch) and still got the same error.

Looking at the unlocked guide for SPI it states that if I can dump the entire chip without any errors, the chip doesn't have write protected enabled. Well I CAN dump the entire chip as the .bin is 8192MB so my system allows dumps but is still write protected.

"To check if your SPI chips’ Flash Descriptor is locked or unlocked, you can simply try to dump its contents via software-based general purpose SPI flashers such as AMI AFU, Intel Flash Programming Tool, Flashrom etc. For Intel systems, it is recommended to use Intel’s Flash Programming Tool from the Engine CS(ME)/CS(TXE) System Tool packages by running the command "fpt -d spi.bin". If it completes successfully, by dumping the entire contents of the SPI chip, your FD is unlocked. However, if you encounter any CPU/BIOS Access or similar errors, your FD is locked for system security purposes, as per Intel recommendations."

 

I sent you a PM. Please check it.

You need to disable the BIOS LOCK entry in your bios.
This is complicated to do. It requires you dumping the bios setup capsule and extracting it with UEFITOOL and then converting that into a TEXT file with Universal IFR extractor, then using RU.EFI in a USB boot disk prompt, to then change Bios Lock.

Could be in system agent or PCH I/O or something.

Look in AMIBCP.
Do you see "BIOS LOCK" option anywhere in something like "System Agent->Security Settings"?

 

Here is where Bios lock is on my system for example.


The problem is, accessing this since you clearly can't flash the bios change anyway.
Basically you need to get the offset code for this entry. and it varies from system to system AND from bios version to bios version !!
That's why you need to run UEFITOOL on your bios, extract the "SETUP" field and then run Universal IFR extractor (correction) on what you extracted.
It's really easy to do actually.
You just open your bios with uefitool and search for "Bios Lock". (search-->text) (haha it's that easy).
Then you should see some result said "Found bios lock in xxxx
It will look something like this:

Unicode text "bios lock" found in PE32 image section at offset 69B6Ch

Then you double clock that at the bottom and it should bring up a highlighted list and will say "PE32 image section.."
Then you choose "extract as is.." and save that as a bin file, to be opened in Universal IFR extractor,

and so on.

After universal IFR extractor, it should convert it to a text file and you should see something like this in the text file:


0x409F4 Form: Security Configuration, Form ID: 0x2770 {01 86 70 27 FD 07}
0x409FA Subtitle: Security Configuration {02 87 FD 07 00 00 00}
0x40A01 End {29 02}
0x40A03 Subtitle: {02 87 02 00 00 00 00}
0x40A0A End {29 02}
0x40A0C Setting: RTC Lock, Variable: 0x8A9 {05 91 FF 07 00 08 83 07 01 00 A9 08 10 10 00 01 00}
0x40A1D Option: Disabled, Value: 0x0 {09 07 04 00 00 00 00}
0x40A24 Option: Enabled, Value: 0x1 {09 07 03 00 30 00 01}
0x40A2B End of Options {29 02}
0x40A2D Suppress If: {0A 82}
0x40A2F Variable 0x79 equals value in list (0x1) {14 08 79 00 01 00 01 00}
0x40A37 Setting: BIOS Lock, Variable: 0x8AA {05 91 01 08 02 08 84 07 01 00 AA 08 10 10 00 01 00}
0x40A48 Default: 8 Bit, Value: 0x1 {5B 06 00 00 00 01}
0x40A4E Option: Disabled, Value: 0x0 (default MFG) {09 07 04 00 20 00 00}
0x40A55 Option: Enabled, Value: 0x1 {09 07 03 00 00 00 01}
0x40A5C End of Options {29 02}
0x40A5E End If {29 02}
0x40A60 End Form {29 02}
0x40A62 Form: SerialIo Configuration, Form ID: 0x2771 {01 86 71 27 AC 0E}
0x40A68 Subtitle: SerialIo Configuration {02 87 AC 0E 00 00 00}
0x40A6F End {29 02}


As you can see the "variable" hex to the right is the offset you are looking for (in this case 0x8AA).
That 0x8AA is what you would need to find, in the "setup" region when you boot to RU at an efi prompt, then you simply change the 01 to a 00, as explained in the thread I linked in your private message. Then save and exit and have it boot to windows.

THIS IS ONLY FROM A DIFFERENT LAPTOP! your offsets *WILL* be much much different! This example wasn't even taken from my own laptop; it was taken from someone else's GT73VR skylake laptop.