*HP 2510p Owners Lounge*

2530P systemboard swap into nc2400

Attempted here using the nc2400, one-gen older than a 2510P. Might be of interest to 2510P owners so has been linked off the first post.

Consider that the final hybrid 2510P+2530P product would be *lighter* than a 2530P. RAM would be swappable if apply the 800Mhz mod, wifi not sure if it's on the 2530P whitelist. Couldn't use the PATA HDD or optical drive since the 2530P has SATA connectors. Easily solvable - could get a US$12 9.5mm sata caddy to run a 2.5" sata SSD or HDD and convert the 2510P's optical drive to be a USB unit.

 

Nando4,

thanks for the impressing thread.

I still have the fan issue! I have used your silent fan bat.

My machine is running around 60-63 degree while browsing and writing word documents sometimes the temp is flashing up to 64-69 and than the fan is starting very loud.

Well this is really bothersome as the fan is turning on and off.

Is there a chance to check if the bat has set the new temp limits?

Any help for this problem is appreciated. Please help me to stop that fan running all the time.

Markus

 

Hey Nando4,
I just stumbled across this site and being a 2510p owner I was interested in overclocking the little dear. I don't consider myself a newb in most things to do with computers, but I tried to work from your instructions and have no idea how to do it. Pretty much everything after step 3 is foreign to me. Did anyone ever integrate this into a package to make it simpler, or can you write me a step by step for dummies. I currently have a the standard HDD and the U7600 processor with 2gb ram. Trying to get a 64gb SSD and 4gb RAM soon, but don't want to overcapitalise, both those components are still very pricey. Any help would be appreciated. Cheers Chris

 

Hi Nando and 2510p owners,

Just checking in to ask a question. I've upgraded my 2510p and I'm looking for Windows 7 drivers (32 and 64 bit). This would be a good addition to the 1st post. The HP 2510p driver page wasn't much help, but thankfully most of the key devices I use are running with the included Win7 drivers. With some tweaking I was able to get my power usage close to my old XP install (~8W when browsing).

One item bugging me is the SD card driver. Win7 64bit shows it is installed but when I insert a SD card it isn't recognized.

 

Hi sfsilicon,

I have the 2510p with Windows 7 (32bit) and 64 Runcore Pro IV SSD. I installed the Windows 32bit drivers and utilities from HP here:
HP Compaq 2510p Notebook PC- Download drivers and software - HP Business Support Center

The SD card reader has not gven me any problems using these drivers. If you were desperate you could drop back to 32bit Win 7? I am showing about 800MB of memory allocated (with Outlook and Firefox running), so I think you may be OK staying with 2GB unless you are running some heavy-duty applications?

To get the idle power down I have disabled the Ethernet and Firewire ports in the BIOS and have implemented the power saving suggestions from Nando. Disabling the Ethernet makes a big difference and she is down to about 7W at idle with the WiFi on and screen at minimum brightness +3 steps.

My next plan is to have a look at the motherboard to see if I can get at the VID pins somwhow and lower the core voltage below the 0.85v floor.

best of luck with the driver!

 

I already upgraded my 2510p from 2GB to 4GB, but now I want to make it another step faster by relpacing the 100GB-disk with a KingSpec SSD. I replaced the disk with the SSD and booted off a Win7-DVD, but there was no hard drive found. It seems the SSD doesn't work, and when I put the original disk back, that doesn't work either. So I'm afraid have the same problem as

Happily I found a possible solution next to it:

Can someone make a picture of the (bottom of the) flatcable in the hard disk? There is a small white line on the flat cable, but how far does it need to go? I'm not sure whether my cable is broken, or if I just didn't put it far enough in the ZIF-connector. And I'm afraid to use too much force to try to push it deeper :s

Thanks in Advance!

 

I heard about someone with this problem, and for some reason unplugging everything and the battery and holding down the power button to discharge capacitors somehow fixed it.

Also its not really a matter of pushing the cable, at least on my drive it had a black plastic mechanical part on a hinge over the connector that you had to flip down and sort of clamp the cable.

 

Thank you for the link. Interestingly when I visited the page it showed me "Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium (64-bit)".

So I'll be trying the drivers and see if that solves my problems. I still have 3 devices that are not identified.

- Base system device
- PCI Serial Port
- PCI Serial Communications Controller

 

That doesn't work for me after HPBI103 write vpro.vpro_state disabled, HPBI103 read VPRO says Vpro enabled ...

Can you help?

 

Hello PowerToTheUsers,

I have the same problem. There is a thin white mark on the HP cable that seems to indicate the point to which the cable should be inserted into the Zif socket.

The HP cable is thicker than the ribon cable that came with my Runcore SSD and will not insert quite as far, it's about 1mm short of fullt inserted. That said, I pulled hard on it before closing the Zif socket on the SSD and it seems to work

I have attached a photo...

 

Try fan_40pct in the revised INFO: Almost silent fan using a custom ACPI dsdt table.

Modified HP 2510P BIOS

DISCLAIMER: Use these modified bios at your own risk!!

These modified bios have been beta tested to confirm they do not brick the system after flash. However you will be solely responsible for any damage to your computer system or loss of data that results from flashing or using of a system with a patched BIOS. These BIOS are not tested or approved by HP.

BIOS^1	Win7 SLIC 2.1​	no whitelist	dual-IDA	quiet_fan​		pcie_ASPM
				fan_30pct	fan_40pct
F.10 (264)	+​	+​	+​	-​		+​
F.10 (269)	+​	+​	+​	+​	-​	+​
F.10 (268)	+​	+​	+​	-​	+​	+​
F.0F (262)	+​	+​	-​	-​		-​
F.0F (264)	+​	+​	+​	-​		+​
F.0F (269)	+​	+​	+​	+​	-​	+​
F.0F (268)	+​	+​	+​	-​	+​	+​

^1 (x) indicates number of bytes modified in original 2510P HP bios. F.0F is based off TTAV134's SLIC2.1+no_whitelist bios from here
YELLOW = recommended

* SLIC 2.1: for Win7 usage.

* no whitelist: whitelist checks skipped so can use non-HP wifi/WWAN cards as explained here.

* dual-IDA: Disables the EIST-lock bit. This means then Throttlestop (TS) can do a dual-IDA overclock, gaining an extra multiplier and 10%-12.5% performance from any U7xxx/L7xxx 2510P. TS also unlocks extra overvolting range from 0.9V to 1.0V to provide higher maximum setfsb overclockability. L7xxx also gain a lower SLFM voltage floor for greater undervolting ability using TS. If you don't use Throttlestop then your system will run with the speed and power consumption as it did prior to flashing the dual-IDA capable bios.

* quiet_fan: exactly the same as quiet_fan's DSDT modifications but more conveniently located in the bios so doesn't require a DSDT override in Windows registry or Linux kernel. Can still use quiet_fan's DSDT override if run multiple OSs requiring different fan load profiles.

* pcie_ASPM: offers better power saving and eradicates a Linux dmesg warning as described.

Installation

Windows users

Download package of interest in the Version column on the right, double-click, extract to a desktop folder then run the HPQFlash file and follow instructions. The supplied HPQFlash is modified by TTAV134@mydigitallife to allow successful flashing of a modified bios.

If HPQFlash doesn't do anything and you see a LOG file containing an entry WMI BIOS Flash function is not supported on this system, then install HP Quicklaunch on your system and try again OR perform a DOS based install like for Linux users below.

Linux users

Download and install modified rompaq from here. Download bios file of interest from above, extract rom.bin from the ROM.cab and copy it as 68MSP.bin on your DOS bootable USB thumbdrive. Reboot using the USB drive and install bios using the rompaq utility.

Bootup error after flash

If you get a message on bootup Your bios failed to complete the update. please ensure that you follow the correct procedures and try again. This may require two sequential bios updates to complete the process then apply mike60's fix here of flashing back to F.0E, flashing the non-modded F.0F then flashing a modded F.0F bios.

Which modded bios am I using and why?

I'm using SLIC21+nowhitelist+dual-IDA+fan_30pct with a 5100AGN wifi card. I've previously been using setfsb to overclock my U7600-1.2 to 1.6Ghz (178Mhz@x9) and created the dual-IDA mod in the hope to take the overclock further.

Unfortunately my CPU is unstable at anything beyond > 1.66Ghz. Dual-lIDA mode's extra voltage not giving extension there. I can run Throttlestop, click EIST to use single-IDA x10 mode so some single-core apps will run at 1780Mhz (178@x10). The dual-IDA bios mod was not necessary to run my single-IDA mode though it doesn't hurt to have it available and other users can get benefit from this. My Win7 WEI CPU score increased 0.2 points using single-IDA mode. The 178@x9 gave some intermittent video hangs on overclock, so I've gone to a rock-stable 160@x10 dual-IDA overclock instead.

fan_30pct is also now in my bios. No need for my DSDT override in XP or Linux and get a nice and quiet system. For the more heavily loaded Win7 I'm using the fan_40pct DSDT override to avoid fan yoyoing b/w 30% and 55%.

Customising BIOS DSDT fan speed entries further (Advanced Users)

The place to tweak the fan speed settings further in the F.0F/F.10 rom.bin file is at:

@0x714B2: fan speed table bytes matching quiet_fan DSDT fan speed table entries
@0x6EC50: recommended checksum correction byte to use

If you decrease the fan speed table entry values, then add the difference of their sum from their original sum total to the correction byte. This will ensure the total checksum of the DSDT table is zero. Otherwise Win7 will fail to boot with some ACPI/BIOS is not compatible type error.

Flash gone wrong? Use Emergency Recovery. You must use a USB floppy drive. A USB thumbdrive doesn't work.

---

Changelog

(09-12-11) new 2510P bios: complete F.10 mod, added pcie_ASPM to previous F.0F and fixed bug in F.0F-fan30pct bios.
(10-29-10) fan speeds altered as recommended by e&i

 

Will try this later on - that would be so great if that works.

Do you have any idea why the vpro disabling doesn't work with the newest Bios? Maybe there is a posibility to disable it directly with the bios? Does the disabling like you described it work with this changed bioses?

 

That didn't work unfortunately...

Thanks for the image. I tried to connect the SSD and the original harddrive again, to no avail... I ordered a usb-to-zif enclosure so I can at least test the SSD and original HDD: I hope I didn't break them.

On a side note: There's a PCIe-slot for a 3G-card. Can I put a PCIe-SSD in it? Did someone else try that before: does that work?

 

Hello
I wish to buy a SATA to PATA caddy for a 2.5" SSD. But when I look at the ebay link, most adds are for a SATA to SATA caddy.
Can you give a link for the product Nando have tested ? ?
Is it the one ?
SATA 2nd Hard Disk Drive caddy for HP COMPAQ Laotop - eBay (item 270576849989 end time Sep-06-10 18:36:06 PDT)

Thank you

 

Ensure you lift the ZIF stiffener, insert the cable, then press down the stiffener as shown here. Requires minimal effort when done that way.

It's not possible to use mPCIe SSDs. They use netbook-specific slots which have sata pins on them. The HP WWAN slot only has USB data transfer pins and the wifi slot has pci-e pins. So neither has sata pins on it.

If you want a SSD can go either 1.8" ZIF one OR a 2.5" sata one using a 9.5mm sata-to-pata caddy like advised below. In the 2.5" configuration the existing 1.8" ZIF HDD can have pin1+2 jumpered to run as slave to act as an additional storage space.

Fenvi 9.5mm sata-to-pata caddy is the recommended ebay caddy

Yes. That is the product I tested, but I would recommend the newer Fenvi 9.5mm sata-to-pata caddy pictured below. It has the same internals BUT now has a stronger metal chassis AND the faceplate is attached by clips. A user briefly showed this caddy's faceplate can be removed via clips, clips that look to align correctly to do a faceplate swap. We are waiting in this other thread for someone to demonstrate the 9.5mm faceplate swap in detail.



I've have also been advised that setting a logic=1 on pin33 (pin in the upper right corner) of the Marvell chip sets it to run as slave though I haven't confirmed this. ebay caddy owners may wish to try it?? Make sure you check that pin33 isn't grounded before trying this as would otherwise short the system.

 

Hi Jedis of the Hack

I've got a EliteBook 2530P with a C2D SL9600, french located.

I think that the thermal ingenering of this subnotebook has been botched. On the keyboard I can feel 8-10°C of difference between his left and right sides. That's sucks !!!

Before having enought money for come-back to ex-BigBlue, I would like fix as possible my thermal problem.

I can't force fan on AC/DC by using bios option because I'm running Debian who can't been booted without disabling ACPI in that case (and that I won't !).

I want to enable (force) lowest fan speed for idle run for any case, I don't care about power consumption 'cause I've got two batteries ...

So I've disassembled the DSDT table like shown in nando4's linux link.
But I can't find inside the section about fan's power tweaking (there's no quote like in nando4's DSDT table post).

You can dl my DSDT table here:
2shared - download DSDT_2530p-SL9600.dst

Thanx for your help !

PS: Sorry for my poor english, I'm french

 

INFO: Hardware based undervolting mod

Thank you for posting some more details on this mod. I was already getting 5.8-6.2W at idle with wifi on, 3 bars brightness. I did a trial VID3+VID2 [shown in next post] and noted that the CPU could only now only run x6 133Mhz FSB (800Mhz) at 0.75V.

What would a VID3+VID2 (0.1V) undervolt gain?

Idle power dropped about 0.2W. Under full cpu load there was 2W difference.

I didn't actually like running my system like this. At the stock lowest voltage of 0.85V, I can run my u7600 at x9 160Mhz overclocked (1.44Ghz), which is my DC profile. Indeed, because the CPU can do it's work a lot faster it may spend more time in C3 power saving state, perhaps neutralising the gains at full load.

Overall, the greatly lowered performance was not something I was prepared to give up what may be questionaby battery life gains.

 

Hi Nando,

there is an easier way. All of the VID lands except VID1 are soldered through to the back of the motherboard. It was pretty easy to connect them with conductive paint. The only problem is getting access to the back of the motherboard, which required taking the whole laptop apart

The photo shows the connection between VID2 and VID3, which allows voltages down to 0.75v with RMClock. Afterwards I went mad and connected VID0 to VID2 and VID3 which allows 0.7125v and undervolts the default LFM VID down to 0.7375v (without RMClock). I've had no problems so-far, but haven't done any significant testing.

I've seen RMClock show an idle power draw of under 6W, so I'd say that it saves just over 0.5W in near-idle conditions.

I'll do some stability testing at various VIDs and write it up a little better when I get a chance.

best Regards,
zerGus

 

delete 10char

 

Hi Nando,

my understanding of the logic is the same as yours: a logical 1 (Vcc) is dominant. Connecting VID0, VID2 and VID 3 is interesting because it gives a good variety of available voltages within the VID range of 0.85 to 0.9v.

the pinout of the processor can be found on the Intel Datasheet, link to the (pinout identical) 45 nm version attached.
http://edc.intel.com/Link.aspx?id=1484

The relevant bit is on the attached table (careful! the BACK of the motherboard is a mirror image of the table). VID0 through VID3 are all nicely adjacent to each other...

I've started testing and have a couple of impressions:
- At 10x and 0.875v I have no stability issues. At 10x and 0.8625v I get an immediate BSOD, a good sign that the CPU is probably actually getting 0.7125v instead of the 0.8625v requested.
- At 6x / 7x and 0.8625v (0.7125v actual) I have no stability issues running 2 instances of CPU burn for about an hour.

The CPU temperature drops down to about 51C at idle. Room temperature is currently 27C here (South of France).

My next step is to do some power consumption testing under load and at various VIDs to see if the power saving is actually worth it.

 

Hello
I have a question about batteries for the 2510p
I found 2 different references for the 9 cells batteries :
- BJ803AA
- BJ803UT
Do you know the difference ? Which one is the best ?

 

Some more tests for VIDs 0.875v and 0.8625v.

At idle there is only about 0.1W - 0.2W difference between the two.

Prime95 shows a bigger difference between the two. Under 100% load at 800MHz I see a battery draw of 13.5W at 0.8625v and ca. 0.7W more at 0.875v.

This does not look right. I did some power calculations and a think that I might only be down to 0.8125v and not 0.7125v as previously assumed. Maybe the connection between VID2 and VID3 is bad...

 

The best 9-cell is the 2540P 93Whr unit giving an extra 12% of battery life over the 2510P/2530P 83Whr unit. It appears to be a direct retrofit. Please report your results if do go with the 2540P battery.

 

thank you. Do you know which one is the 2540p battery ? The BJ803UT ?

 

UPDATE: appears here that BJ803UT is probably 93Wh and BJ803AA is 83Wh.

2540P 93Wh 9-cell battery part number, original 2510P/2530P 9-cell is 83Wh

The BJ803UT has no details on it's Wh specification other than saying it's a 2533T/2510P//2530P/2540P battery. Means it could be the 83Wh unit. Would need HP to confirm it's specifications.

I checked the 2540P Maintenance and Service Guide finding the 93Whr 9-cell spare part number is 593587-001. partsurfer.hp.com snippet below shows they want a hefty US$150 for it.

Google shopping has the same thing starting at US$70 or can get them from ebay (China) for US$60-shipped.



There's another place that sells it for a more reasonable US$102 or US$105.

 

thank you again Nando. I've ordered the battery. I will tell you if it works. And if you want me to run some test, just tell me. However I won't be able to compare it with the old 9cells battery since I don't have it.

I will try the modded bios when I have a SSD with a new Windows 7 installation.

 

I have received the battery. It works fine.

 

Any comments on battery life improvements observed?

 

Difficult to say. I had only a 3 cell battery and a 6 cell battery so yes the battery life is now far better. But I can't compare to the old 9cell battery since I don't have one.

 

Thanks Nando for the update.

The 2510p is my companies Notebook so I'm scared to do the BIOS change!

Shall I download and use the 30percent table of the 40% one?

Thanky for helping.. I will report the fan noise which sucks while using Firefox 3...

 

If just requiring the fan speed change then there's no need for a modded_bios. quiet_fan will do the job. Follow the link to see some suggestions on when to use the 30% or 40% fan speed option. Would also recommend installing flashblock Firefox add-on. Flash based pages kick up CPU utilisation driving the fan into noisy action.

 

I've installed the 30% version and it seems to work now very well!! Thank you!

Markus

 

Hi Nando,

Following your suggestion on another topic to buy the ebay caddy for my HP2540p for an additional HDD, I did some more reading, and I believe the ebay solution would actually not fit my case, as I do not want to mod the original 1,8 HDD (toshiba), i.e. "slave bridging".
I guess my only alternative now is the official HP caddy?
The 2nd HDD I have in mind is one of Seagate's Momentum XT (hybrid)

 

The 2510P needed to setup a master/slave setup because it's pata. A 2540P is different. It has a full sata setup so just slides right in without any such requirements. You can see there's a sata connector on the rear right side of the 2540P caddy. So the cheaper ebay "Fenvi" 9.5mm sata caddy could be used instead.

 

I see... thank you, much appreciated

 

SO Im having issues with the Dual IDA Bios.... my Wifi card is a 4965AG.. apparently its not supported on any of the modded bios's...... Anyone else with a 4965AG wifi card?

 

Replied to here.

 

So with the caddy hard drives which is a better choice? SATA to pata or pata to pata? Im going to get one from newmodeus and want the faster one.......


And another question..... Has anyone tried using readyboost on their 2510p with windows 7?

 

The fastest 2.5" pata HDDs are 160GB-per-plattery HM160HC or WD3200BEVE and 5400rpm. 2.5" sata HDDs like a WD5000BEKT are 7200rpm and 250BG-per-platter, so perform faster. The penalty is noticably reduced battery life. The HDD uses more power AND the sata-to-pata controller adds an additional 0.8-1W of power consumption.

To get improved disk performance AND maintain great battery life consider either:

1. A 2.5" pata HDD like the HM160HC or WD3200BEVE. If don't need the newmodeus faceplate then can use a US$14-delivered ebay pata caddy.

2. A 1.8" ZIF SSD.

3. A 2.5" sata SSD like a OCZ Vertex/Agility ~US$21-delivered Fenvi ebay sata-to-pata caddy. Appears the caddy can have faceplate switched with the optical drive to get a perfect appearance. Can use the supplied 1.8" ZIF HDD in slave config for additional storage or can sell it to recoup some costs. Could go a Hybrid drive like a Momentus XT but I believe it too would put a significant dent on battery life due to using a 7200rpm sata HDD together with 4GB of SSD.

 

im just looking for a large amount of storage.....i got a line on a 500gig pata hard drive.......

im getting the newmodeus caddy i guess...

and can the pata caddy be set as a slave to the internal hard drive?

 

pata caddy isn't jumpered per se. The master/slave jumper is set on the pata HDD itself. I believe the largest 2.5" 9.5mm pata HDD is a 320GB WD3200BEVE.

The greatest capacity available in a 2.5" 9.5mm form factor is a sata 750GB WD7500PBVT. So could use either the newmodeus or ebay sata-to-pata caddy to host it, the latter only able to work in master mode.

 

Hi,

The service manual no longer appears to be available on the HP website, does anyone have a copy of this handy?

Thanks,

Gaz

 

Ok, just managed to find it, if you're looking for it google 'c01918153.pdf'

Cheers,

Gaz

 

Well the service manual didn't help me much.
I've disassembled the laptop to replace the onboard speaker. I have a L kind of shape piece of rubber which I was wondering where it went. It has 2 small notches, 1 of the flat side and the other on the corner edge, I think it came from around the hinge fittings, it just fell out so I didn't notice where it came from.

Sort of looks like this, I can post a picture later if this doesn't help.

Code:

|----)
|     ------|
|           |
|----------|

Cheers,

Gaz

 

Through trial and error I got there in the end, it goes next to the USB port by the DVD drive

Gaz

 

modded bios now with no wifi+wwan whitelist checks

Updated modded bios now available with no wifi+wwan whitelist checks. So can now use a non-HP wifi or wwan mPCIe card without receiving an error 104/105+bios halt on bootup.

 

I have an HP 2510 with a Toshiba Disk Drive MK1011GAH and the connector appears to be a dd00t2hd001.
The operating system is corrupt and I want to recover the data using an enclosure to tap into the files. BUT I can 't find one that works with this connector. HELP??

 

Your Toshiba MK1011GAH is a ZIF HDD. Just raise the ZIF stiffener tab as shown here, disconnect the HP ZIF cable from the ZIF HDD. Then attach the ZIF HDD to a US$10-delivered ZIF enclosure with the supplied ZIF cable.

 

@nando4

why did you delete the downloadlink of the non "dualIDA" Bios?
I really don't want a higher cpucoltage, because i don't overclock and so this only leads to a higher temperatur (which is quite useless )
Or is 1.0V only usable via rmclock (for example) but not used automatically?

Could you maybe make a 40pct Bios? This would also really help me alot, because under Linux the Fan is sometimes also "YoYoing" but since 2.6.30 you can't use custom DSDTs without compiling a kernel ...(you know the story ).

That would be awesome!

In those days i used Win 7 i also played around with DSDT's here and i thought that your 70% step is too high.
I always used
30%->40%->50% (or 55%) -> 70 (or 80%) -> 100%
or
20%->30%->50% (or 55%) -> 70 (or 80%) -> 100%

This is much better, because 70% is much noisier than 50% and you never really need more than 70%, so we can use a 50% "between" step here. The 100% is just a "emergency" step.

You could also give me more information how to include this on my own

Edit:

That doesn't work (i think it did sometime) ... but HP's Dos Tool always claims that it can't read 68MSP.bin.("Error in file content read from disk. Please try recreating file or disk"). I don't know why.

 

I got the same problem, the bios update app doesnt want to boot up via my USB drive.Invalid system disk. Though, if I put the rompaq files on the USB drive it boots up, but then it complains the .bin file is not readable.