*HP 2510p Owners Lounge*

Based on your comments I've proceed to:

1. Updated both modded_bios and quiet_fan with your recommended fan speed settings.

2. Changes comments relating to flashing the modded_bios on Linux-only systems.

EDIT: dualIDA will only be engaged by additional software like Throttlestop that disable EIST mode altogether, holding the system at the highest multiplier using c-states to lower power. Linux will use EIST mode exactly the same with a dualIDA or non-dualIDA capable bios, consuming the same power. I've updated the comments about dualIDA in the modded_bios section.

If you want lower power, temps, and a quieter fan, consider the hw_undervolt mod, tieing VID3+VID2 pins as shown by zerGus. That will get you a 0.85->0.75V drop on the x6 multiplier. PHC driver can then be used to set that voltage for other dividers that can work reliably with it.

 

Hi,

thx for your work.

Can you say something about my question to dualIDA?

 

I have tried two kinds of zif cables (DD00T1HD019 and DD00T2HD001), but none of them was thin enough to go through the connector entry of my new Samsung HS122JC 120GB hard drive. I see some similar model numbers including 451722-001 you mentioned and DD00T1HD116, but is any of them thin enough to make it work? Where can I get information on this point?

 

Did you raise the ZIF stiffener tab, as shown below, on the Samsung ZIF HDD? If yes, then the ZIF cable will slide in very easily. If not, then the ZIF cable will not slide in without a huge amount of force if it slides in at all.

Using the ZIF SSD stiffener I had missed that the stiffener is available on the ZIF SSD, thinking that perhaps such a facility exists but the ZIF connector looks so fragile that I didn't dare explore in case I broke something. Well, there is a stiffener that can be flicked up which then really does make it Zero Force Insertion (ZIF). May I suggest disconnecting the ZIF cable, wiping it clear of any remnanets from it's last position, then reseating it?

 

Yes, I did raise the stiffener, but the cable still didn't go in much. It should go into there as far as the white line, so that the tip of the cable reaches the position of stiffener, right? My cable probably only goes in by 1 mm or so.

 

Yes, the ZIF cable only goes about 1mm into the ZIF socket. The white line on the cable lines up closer to the against the outer edge of my Toshiba ZIF HDD as shown below:



Suggest try booting the Samsung ZIF HDD *without* the optical drive installed just in case there is some master/slave between them..

 

Oh, I see. I've connected the cable that way and put things back.

Without Windows CD, hard drive does not boot. There seems to be nothing on it (just bought brand new).

I am now reinstalling XP from a CD. I hope this works.

 

I thought I should run wiper.exe as I have not done this for a while and the SSD is getting full.

It starts ok but then the whole system seems to get stuck at the start of the trim process

I tried running in Safe mode but same thing happens

I have to de-power to turn off the laptop

Any ideas?

Thanks

TL

 

Do a Tony Trim, then run wiper.exe. Tony Trim's AS-Cleaner will NULL out filesystem blocks that have no data on them allowing wiper.exe to identify which NAND pages to operate on. Will bring your write performance back up to as new levels.

 

I have run chkdsk and had this fix a few problems. Then I ran AS-cleaner. Finally tried wiper again. Does 1st two steps lightening fast but then sticks at send trim 0.0%
Any further ideas????

Thanks as always

TL

 

If you have firmware 1916, it has a background GC that should clean up the NULL blocks you created with Tony Trim. If running wiper.exe then leave the 'send trim 0.0%' to run for a while if the HDD LED is on. If it really just hangs there, then maybe engage Runcore Tech support to assist? If get nowhere with them, suggest RMA it for the K3VLAR ZIF SSD. It uses the Marvell sata-to-pata bridge chip with no Win7/Trim issue.

FYI: My ProIV worked great for a few months then failed unexpectedly. Something that others on the Runcore forum have reported.

 

I had the same problem on my Win7 x64 Ultimate: most drivers are added automatic (or by Windows Update) except those three
- PCI Serial Port = Intel (R) Active Management - SOL (COM4)
- PCI Serial Communications Controller = Intel (R) Management Engine Interface.
I guess those two come with the Intel AMT driver.

- Base system device = Ricoh SD/MMC Host Controller
Drivers can be found in the package for the Ricoh Media Card Reader Driver, softpaq sp45112.

After that, I ran the HP SoftPaq Download Manager tool, which still indicates a few SoftPaqs I haven't installed: a few drivers, but a lot of software packages too. I like to keep the system as light as possible, so I'll try to do without the extra packages. Any idea if any of those are required nevertheless?

 

I hope people wont mind possibly a silly question. But I was an am quite keen to buy the 5310m but have to wait for the 5320m. I then saw the 2540p (core i5) version goes for around 1K USD. There is very little comparison done between the 2540p and 5310m. I think either one would work for me, I dont often use a dvd drive, so that isnt needed. I'll put a new HDD in both, so really, are they very similar? does one have a much better screen or sound etc. Money isnt the issue, more just getting a good laptop. Lower weight preferred however I must admit.

Note: I think one is ultra low voltage! maybe that makes a big diff.

 

The AMT software is not required. Those devices can be disabled or as I did, disable AMT altogether.

In which case suggest look at the Lenovo X201. It is 2/3 the weight of a 2540P. See HP 2540p vs Lenovo X201s. Consider too that a 13" Dell E4310 weights in the same as a 2540P. They're available at low prices from the Dell Outlet. 2540P's extra weight, worse keyboard and noisy fan are a step backwards from 2530P/2510P imho.

Win7/64: save power by disabling Soundmax driver

I discovered if I rollback the Soundmax driver so it's "High Definition Audio" instead, then disable it, my idle power drops another 0.4W. I've seen it hit 5.5W with wifi on, 3 bars brightness, HDD spun down. That's better than I ever got with XP. So I'm now predominantly using Win7/64. I wonder if the hw_undervolt mod could get it to 5.0W?

 

nando4, thanks. I aint getting a 2540p that is for sure. Might still go for the 2530p. I would have jumped at the x201s, but it has not webcam. X201 does have. After my bad experience with the x100e (first variation) I vowed to try something else, its all so blinking hard work! so, really in your mind, between x201, 2530p and 5320m what you you go for? (i ma thinking x201. quiet, works, no issues!)

 

I'd save my pennies for a Sandy Bridge ultraportable. 3x faster IGP, pci-e 3.0 expresscard slot, more battery life. Maybe HP will then give us a better 12" offering, Dell comes up with a successor to the E4200 and Lenovo improves the X201 with better LCDs.

If need a system now, I'd get the cheapest s/h X200, E4200, 2530P/2510P, 1410T/1810T, UL20A, R600, I could find with remaining manufacturers warranty with the intention of upgrading in 2-3 months.

 

nando, took your advice and picked up a x200. ok not second hand, but 600 dollars and new from someone, lets face it, it is a decent piece of hardware and when i fit a webcam it will work dandy. i'll need to get used to the trackpoint, but the touchpad on it looks way too squashed anyways. i still love my 5302 hp but the cpu is darn slow and hd screen the angles wash out.

 

A great buy. A P8600 X200 and a i3 X201 see very similar performance, though the latter is some $250 more in price. X200/x201 hold their s/h value very well and make great x1.Opt DIY ViDock candidate units, so can do high performance gaming on them.

As much as I like the X200/X201, I love the silence, battery life, unwhitelisted wifi/wwan, SLIC2.1, 64GB SSD+DVD and low price setup of my [email protected] more. Looking forward to testing a EWS720-base Renice ZIF SSD detailed here which will extend battery life over the ZIF HDD and K3VLAR/ProIV SSDs. I've been getting some amazing battery life recently and this will extend it further.

 

I retained a dual boot configuration where I could either boot from the Samsung 160Gb HDD in the optical bay or the Runcore Zif SDD. I have programs on the HDD that are a pain to reload.

I can still boot from the SSD and I can then see all the files on the Smasung HDD

When I try to boot from the Samsung HDD it gets stuck in the boot up. When trying safe boot it loads drivers up to mup.sys and then goes to a black screen with the cursor. This is not an unocommon problem it seems. I have tried restoring to an earlier image, I have restored the boot/ files, I have tried the jumper on the HDD in alternate place and not at all. I have tried repairing Windows

Anyone else any ideas

Maybe time to replace the 2510p. I have been looking at the Thinkpad x201. Maybe Windows 7 is more stable than XP

TudorLaptop

 

Sounds like a 'chkdsk /f' followed by an OS reload on the HM160HC is required if it all checks out. That OS reload could be XP or Win7.

Wouldn't advise spending any $$ until a X201 Sandby Bridge refresh model is release in Q1 2011. Compared to the current X200/X201, the 2510P will give better battery life, a DVD or HDD/caddy option, a quieter fan and leaves plenty of change in your wallet. Note too the just released Macbook Air 11 is using a SU9400-1.4 which gives the same cpu performance as a [email protected].

 

Since my last post the laptop has stopped working altogether. When I turn it on the fan whirs and the hard drive light flashes a bit. The screen does not come on. This happened to me once in the past and I cured it by taking our the SSD and putting in the old HDD. Then once it worked I put the SDD back.

Today borrowed an identical 2510p from someone at work. Here's what I tried
Their HDD in my chassis
then their CMOS battery instead of mine

I think my relationship with the 2510p is at an end.

Off to order a Thnkpad as I now cannot wait for Intel newest offering next year

TL

 

just bought one of these but it has a black screen,I think that I read here that if I install a hard drive it might make the screen work?fans spin but no picture,also came with no hard drive I have a 1.8 inch toshiba from a sony notebook but the cable that came with the hp doesnt seem to fit,am I missing a part?flat ribbin on cable does that go int a zif drive or am I missing a conecter? hard drive model HDD1524 S will this drive work?

 

Black screen sounds like it's a non-working system as system will show a bios screen even with no HDD attached. Can remove all power sources, press and hold the power button for 30 seconds, then reconnect power sources and press power button. If no go, obtain a systemboard either as a warranty repair by HP or off ebay otherwise.

1.8" ZIF cable details are here. It will go into a 40pin ZIF connector.

 

Is the fingerprint reader any good? I want to use it, but I'm afraid that the computer won't recognize by fingerprint and lock me out.

 

Hi Nando.

Sorry for being away for a while. I've taken some time to do a little more testing on the CPU VID MOD.

I've switched to Core2MaxPerf for testing as the thermal load changes with time under Prine95. However I am still getting spikes in power consumption of up-to 2W, which I believe are associated with the Runcore ProIV SSD?

I have not been able to find out the exact VID requested for VCCDPRSLP and VDC4. These are in the range between 0.55V and 0.8V and should be those that the CPU requests most when it is Idle. Without knowing these I have no idea whether the MOD has any impact on idle voltage. Power consumption at dead idle (mine is in the 5.7W area) does not appear to have been really changed by the MOD.

Under load I have tested from 800MHz / 0.7125v up-to 1333MHz and 0.9125v.

At 1066MHz the CPU is stable at 0.7375v and I can select up-to 0.9125v in RMClock. The difference between the two under full load is about 0.7W (14.7W vs 14.0W).
At 800MHz between 0.7125v and 0.875v (the nearest voltage to stock that I can access) the difference is also about 0.7W (13.2W vs 13.9W).

In conclusion there is no real power saving at dead idle, there is no real saving vs RMClock at 1333MHz. Under light loads there is a power saving of <=0.5W vs 0.85v (less as load goes down). I'd guess that there's about 20-30 minutes of extra runtime (writing, surfing listening to mp3 / watching DVDs etc) to be had from the MOD.

As a side note I've done a similar MOD to a 35W T8300 CPU and the difference is MUCH more noticeable. The 2510p is already very low power and there is simply not much saving left to be had...

 

Welcome back.

I had somewhat different hw_undervolt results here. I reversed the mod as didn't think the gains were worth the lowered performance with my setup. If want more power savings suggest get a EWS720-based 1.8" ZIF SSD. They use lower power and run cooler. You'd get ~0.3-0.7W savings at idle/load.

I too noticed creeping power consumption over time in Win7/64. When running on battery I have a script to that sets up a dualIDA [email protected] AC-overclock and [email protected] DC-overclock. Switching from AC->DC has the script automatically:

- disabling the soundcard as it raises power consumption after some time. I also use the Win7 default HD Audio driver rather than the Soundmax one. Soundmax one is worse for power consumption.

- disabling then enabling wifi (optional)

- terminating Throttlestop as it's monitoring takes cpu cycles

As an aside, consider testing the BSEL overclocking mod. You'd get a 200*6=1.2Ghz system, with noticably faster X3100 response.

 

I've been lurking on this thread since the first page was started, just never registered. THANK YOU everyone and especially NANDO for all the work you have done and information you have shared.

I purchased a Photofast V3 32GB back when they were new. It had always given me the "freeze" issue - I assume as it does not support TRIM or have GC. I have tried many of the suggested fixes and looked for firmware, wiper, etc, nothing seemed to work. I gave up and got a Runcore Pro IV 64GB, which was somewhat better but not great. Then I tried to disable TRIM on Win7 based on a suggestion I read somewhere, and trashed my Windows installation in the process, so in desperation and not wanting to spend any time rebuilding Windows 7 I threw the Photoslow back in.

I wanted to share this because of how much of a difference it made - I don't know exactly which change it made was so good, but this utility has made my Photoslow go back to being Photofast somehow.
Link to utility: Guide SSD Tweak Utility
Link to Win7 optimization guide: TweakTown’s Solid State Drive Optimization Guide - Windows 7 Optimizations :: TweakTown USA Edition


My 2510p is Windows 7 Ultimate 64bit, 4GB ram(works great, from crucial.com), everything else standard. Thanks again!

PS- On every boot or return from standby or hibernate, but only with the PhotoFastV3 drive, the drive is not detected and I have to press ctrl-alt-delete. Then it continues to boot fine. Any ideas?

 

Can someone please help me with a link to a working 2nd sata/pata ebay caddy for my 2510p? The 1.8" 60gb hdd is not enough anymore and would like to buy a caddy for secondary hdd. From what I read here, I will have to use the new hdd as master and the old zif one as slave, correct?

 

Yes, I was unable to get the ebay sata-to-pata caddy to function as slave - it would only run as master. So advise jumpering the Toshiba 1.8" ZIF HDD as slave to get concurrent functionality by bridging it's pin1+2 as shown. If going sata-to-pata, consider obtaining the Fenvi ebay caddy with swappable faceplate and stronger chassis, posting installation pics and details for others to see. Here's the relevant links:

* ebay caddies review
* 9.5mm ebay "Fenvi" sata-to-pata caddy with swappable faceplate
* a close-up of the 2510P optical drive faceplate

 

thanks, but can you please send by PM a direct link to ebay product? there are many models, don't know which one will work for me. Which one should I buy - for sata hdd or pata hdd - which is better?

 

I'd go a PATA caddy + PATA HDD, like a HM160HC or a WD3200BEVE, for improved performance with a minimal power consumption increase. Those drives can be jumpered as master OR slave. Just require an ebay caddy like this, detailed here. This setup then opens the door to go a 1.8" ZIF SSD down the track. Note: The "Fenvi" caddy isn't available in a PATA version.

Keeping in mind too that SSD costs have dropped. So could go a low power SATA SSD, like a 80GB Intel X25M G2 in a ebay "Fenvi" sata-to-pata caddy and keep the 1.8" ZIF HDD as an additional storage repository.

We see the 2510P has a number of ways of improving the primary boot drive's performance.

 

I guess I will go for the sata version because ide hdd is more expensive than sata one. So i will get bigger hdd space for sata version and I will lose some power right? Now will search for an ebay seller that will ship to my country.

 

Yes, the ebay sata-to-pata caddy's bridge adds 1W overhead for the translation. This is significant when you consider a 2510P averages 10W with the 1.8" ZIF SSD. A sata HDD also consumes more idle and active power than a 1.8" ZIF HDD. The net affect is a 15-20% decrease in battery life. Not something I'd recommend for an ultraportable whose claim to fame is portability and battery life.

Which is why I recommend a PATA 2.5" HDD, a 2.5" SATA SSD or a 1.8" ZIF SSD to maintain the 2510P's great battery life while improving the primary drive performance. Some sample setups are shown on the first page of this thread. A EWS720-based 1.8" ZIF SSD will *extend* your battery life beyond what you achieve with a 1.8" ZIF HDD.

 

hi there! i did "C:\> hpbi103 write vpro.vpro_state disabled
C:\> hpbi103 write TPM off" like you said and the tpm menu disappeared
from bios options but the atm menu still visible and device errors in xp device manager still appearing

How to disable these devices to remove those errors in xp?, thanks

 

when i try to install a chipset or video driver or matrix driver, a message "your computer does not meet the minimum hardware requirements" comes out.

why? how can i bypass this?

thank you

P.S. i have a 2710p but its actually the same hw.

 

Try various commandline options to disable vpro. It worked for me. Once I disabled it I couldn't re-enable vpro to confirm the exact commandline but I believe the above looks pretty close.

Uninstall the existing driver and try again or use the "have disk" method.

 

thanks but didnt work.

any other ideas?

 

News !!!

- It is working with Intel 6200AGN
- Now I must built in usb-webcam. But where ?
I have 2MP cam. Chipset are Ricoh with drivers built in OS W7.
Only one problem are. I need 3.3V NOT 5V. Where I found this ?
Ricoh need 3.3V +/- 0.3V. I found only 3V on the shematic of 2510p.
Maybe to use LM2936Z-3.3V from 5V to 3.3V ?

Mike

 

I believe you did a test of the UN2420 WWAN as well with the unwhitelisted 2510P bios. Can you post a screenshot to confirm it's operation?

Quite curious if you can pull off the webcam mod easily. A feature sorely missing. You have a number of USB tap-off points on the 2510P systemboard: the docking connector, fingerprint reader, bluetooth module.
I'd guestimate that the docking connector is likely not checked by the bios, but am not 100% sure. The bios does some checks to confirm the others and will give you an option to enable/disable "fingerprint/bluetooth" if it detects them.

There's quite a few 3.3V points on the systemboard. Eg: WWAN or wifi mPCIe connector.

 

Hi

1. Qualcomm only driver. You can see in attachment. It is no function. I`l try with two software. NO.
Two days ago I write and I tell that is working. Sorry. Only driver.
2. Ericsson in bios - NO, OS - W7 - NO.

WWAN I don`t need. I have USB-stick modem.

3. Webcamera. It is no place to install inside in LCD. Only if I take out WWAN right antenna and remain two wire with shield for data and power. Maybe Red and blue wire are from WWAN.
Cut right antenna becouse on her left side are WLAN and I need to left inside LCD.

On shematics I see only 3V. Perhaps are 3.3V. I will try with external supply and data from docking connector.

Sorry for my poor English

Mike

 

INFO: 200MHZ_bclk- a hardware based overclock for U7x00 2510P systems



It is possible and very easy to do - disassemble the system. Then can either draw a track with a conductive pen OR solder a track over the R1041 and R1038 resistor pad locations as shown in red in the above image, derived from 2510P-Quanta-OT2-schematic.pdf. Then re-apply thermal paste to the CPU and reassemble. WARNING, the CPU will be locked to the x6 multiplier running at 0.85V, the lowest VID, no dualIDA capability. These parameters get locked and cannot be changed using rmclock/throttlestop, being Intel's anti-overclocking feature when the chipset and CPU set BSEL signals do not match. At 200x6, the CPU is in effect running like a 1.2Ghz SU2300 or SU9300. Since the CPU is running at the lowest VID, the CPU will average less power consumption than under stock bootup CPU voltage/divider settings. The I/O is running faster so may cause a small battery life decrease.

Observations? X3100 graphics is noticable faster, the CPU slower than my 1.6Ghz(160x10, or 178x9) overclocks. I used setfsb to overclock further, getting a stable 240Mhz PLL overclock bringing the CPU up to 1.44Ghz. 1.44Ghz was the point I had previously established was the highest my CPU could run at 0.85V. WEI results for a U7600-1.2 below show X3100 desktop results are faster than with any overclock possible when booting up the with the standard 133Mhz BCLK.

[email protected] (133x9): 3.9/4.2/2.8/3.0/5.9 <-- stock BCLK=133Mhz bootup
[email protected] (200x6): 3.9/4.6/3.2/3.1/5.9 <-- bootup with BCLK=200Mhz
[email protected] (160x9): 4.3/4.5/3.1/3.1/5.9 <-- stock BCLK=133Mhz bootup + setfsb overclock
[email protected] (240x6): 4.3/4.9/3.5/3.2/5.9 <-- bootup with BCLK=200Mhz + setfsb overclock

Running the 200Mhz FSB sets different video timings as shown here and uses the stock 333Mhz spdtable RAM entry for timings. So there is no need to mess with SPDTool or Thaiphoon Burner.

I did a brief test with the VID2 pin to force the voltage regulator to deliver 0.9V volts to the CPU and increased the 333Mhz RAM SPDtable entry to use CAS=6 in an effort to provide greater overclockability. I could still not overclock beyond 245Mhz so likely it's a internal CPU cache or a chipset overclocking wall.

Overall we see the 200Mhz_bclk overclock gets great RAM and X3100 performance at the expense of keeping the CPU < 1.47Ghz. Since I prefer to have a higher 1.6-1.65Ghz CPU overclock, I've reversed this mod and just use a stock 133Mhz bootup + setfsb overclocking. If I was running < 1.44Ghz CPU speed then I'd do this mod for the noticably faster I/O. U7500-1.06 owners would get a nice overclock over stock speeds.

 

Hi Guys,

I just got a cheap 2510p from ebay (like literally 45 mins ago) and would like to replace the hdd. So I've been reading around and the suggestions I've seen so far are the mtron 32gb ssd and renice k3vlar ssd. However, the links provided don't work and I couldn't find anything from ebay. Then I saw this Samsung HS122JC which is a 5400rpm hdd which should be faster than the MK4009GAL - 40 GB that my 2510p will come with. My questions are:
-is it worth getting the samsung for $120~? or
-just find a faster zif ssd?

Thanks!

 

Congratulations on the purchase and welcome to the 2510P Owner's Lounge.

Any ZIF HDD isn't going to improve things much since the PATA interface can't do NCQ. To see performance improvement consider going a ZIF SSD, examples below, or a 2.5" sata SSD via optical bay caddy. newegg recently had a 2.5" OCZ Agility 60GB for US$100AR. An ebay sata-to-pata caddy to host it can be had for < US$20-delivered.

64GB SuperTalent ZT2 ZIF SSD has been snagged for US$110 which is the cheapest ZIF SSD I've seen. I've made enquiries to identify what controller it uses.

Though I'd recommend a US$190 60GB Renice K3VLAR-E ZIF SSD. It uses a native PATA EWS720 controller giving a great balance of performance, low running temperature and battery life improvements.

 

Hi!
I've flashed F.0F (267) Modified HP 2510P BIOS. Flashing was susscessfull, no errors in .log
The laptop work's fine but i have "Your BIOS failed to complete the update, Please ensure that you follow the correct procedures and try again. This may require two sequential BIOS updates to complete the process." message every time at start-up.
What may be wrong? Any ideas to fix it?
Thanks

 

Thanks for answering my question and the quick response. I'm going for k3vlar as you've suggested. I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks again.

 

Lol. Just found out that I bought the K3VLAR without the native PATA EWS720 (that's the only product I saw in MDD by the way). Anyway reading your reviews, it should be fine for me.

 

Added the following to the modded_bios section:

Bootup error after flash

If you get a message on bootup Your bios failed to complete the update. please ensure that you follow the correct procedures and try again. This may require two sequential bios updates to complete the process then apply mike60's fix here of flashing back to F.0E, flashing the non-modded F.0F then flashing a modded F.0F bios.

 

nando4
sequential bios updates
"flashing back to F.0E => flashing the non-modded F.0F => flashing a modded F.0F bios"
solved my problem
Thank you!

 

Help! Here is the deal (so far HP and 2 of their repair centers have been no help). I have a 2510p with the solid state hard drive from the factory (60GB). My 2510p suddenly lost all video output - black screen, power lights and stuff come on, but no screen, external monitor also doesnt work. I am told it is a failure on the motherboard of the video chip (resocketing the memory did not help) and would cost more than the laptop to replace.

1) If anybody recognizes this problem and has a fix cheaper than that, let me know, please. This is a depressing failure of what I thought was an awesome computer.

2) If I cant fix it, I need to get the data off the hard drive. The problem is, I am told the SSD has a special HP connector so there is no adapter to stick the drive in another machine. Does any body know of some way I can get this hard drive put in another computer so I can get the data off? Is there some kind of adapter to let me use this in another computer as a second hard drive?

thanks for any help - Zach

 

Sorry to hear the bad news. First thing is to pull all power, reseat RAM/HDD, press and hold the power button for 30 secs, replug back together and hope the system now does power up. Also ensure the BIOS chip itself in the 1.8" drive bay is securely in place.

If no go consider purchasing the base U7700-1.33 2510P on ebay for US$72 with 2hrs to go. Just rip out the systemboard and replace your current one. Invest in a T10 screwdriver and some thermal compound (eg: Artic Silver) to be able to pull your existing system apart and reassemble again. Disassembly guides are linked on the first post. If doing such an operation, consider incorporating in 200Mhz_bclk overclock as well.

If instead you wish to retire the 2510P then to get the data off your ZIF HDD you'll need to invest in a US$7-delivered ZIF-USB enclosure.