*HP 2510p Owners Lounge*

Try forcing DX settings using 3D-Analyzer.

 

3DAnalyzer does not work at all.

 

Yes but now after one week the write performance has allready dropped.
Its still feel snappy but the bench cleary shows the drop.
Yes no trim but i did not expect it so quickly.

I ordered the fenvi caddy and will give trim a chance to enhance it - otherwise a other ssd with better garbage collection will replace the m4.

I will look when the caddy has arrived.

So long,
thanks

Martin

 

try tony trim or another helper for ssd w/o trim!

 

I now tried tony trim but nope no improvement.
Still "bad" write performance...weird.

I am curious about the ebay caddy.

 

Three reasons why write performance could degrade:

1) The SSD is nearing full. FIX: delete some data to free up some flash cells.

2) The SSD has no active TRIM and has had many writes performed so is now dirty. FIX: Tony Trim. Main part of the exercise is AS-Cleaner that writes 0xFF (nulls) to empty space so that Garbage Collection knows there are empty cells to work with.

3) Some SSD firmware like Sandforce will pull back write performance so can maintain longevity of the cells. That often being the case after significant writes in a short space of time like CrystalDiskMark performs. FIX: perform a secure erase. I use Linux' hdparm to do it. You lose all data on the drive. It is like resetting the drive back to original delivered state. I believe the drive loses all statistics for write management so not recommended to do often if wanting SSD longevity.

The ebay caddy works better with 2510Ps when using a 2.5" SSD or HDD as master. Just ensure you jumper the 1.8" ZIF HDD as slave if wanting a SSD+HDD solution. The newmodeus caddy has a slave jumper so works better when requiring a 2.5" SSD or HDD as slave (1.8" ZIF HDD is master).

 

Hi nando4,

1) The CDM Screenshot says 10/60MB.
2) Done - no improvement.
3) Marvell 9174... 37/38 MB/s would be a little much pull back.

I have just test the ssd in another sys... @sata2 it has ~112 MB/s at write so the ssd seems ok.
Maybe the newmodeus caddy has a fault... no idea.

I will use the SSD in the caddy as master - no slave.
Bye ZIF HDD... the silence is just brilliant.

 

So... the ebay caddy arrived today - yipee!

I activated trim - no freezes so trim seems to work.
Then i did a bench - still bad write performance.
So i did a full pass with AS Cleaner and then wait a few minutes.
One more bench... still only ~40MB/s write.

Has anyone an idea what more i could try? Besides a reinstall.

//edit:
But when i think about it, it can not be a ssd problem.. otherwise i would not have full performance
when i test it in another system - right?
So the windows install has a problem?
Or the m4 is sulky because it has to run in that old machine.

 

I reinstalled windows and now the write performance is back again.
I hope it stays that way.

The ebay caddy performs well.

//edit:
I took pictures of the board.
For the LED mod a connection between Pin 37 and the + of the LED Cable it all i had to do?
Should this led mod also work with my nc2400?

 

Looking good. Write performance is back up where it should be.

Did you happen to get the Fenvi caddy with the swappable faceplate? If so, have you tried to swap in the optical drive faceplate for a perfect appearance? Would be great if you could take some photos to include with the caddy writeup as then it would be the #1 caddy for use with a 2510P and SSD.

 

2510p

I bought a Broadcom Crystal HD card.
Broadcom BCM70012 BCM970012 BCM70010 Crystal HD Decoder | eBay

I installed the F.10 (268) bios can be found here: http://forum.notebookreview.com/6636069-post462.html

A place to put wifi, does not recognize the card.
Only if I live off the boot after the change wifi.
If you re-boot again, it does not recognize.
What is wrong?

 

The unwhitelisted bios still checks if the card is a wifi card. The HD decoder fails that check so that port is whitelisted out. Two workarounds to consider:

1. Use DIY eGPU Setup 1.x's anti-whitelisting feature to get the BroadC card recognised without needing to boot with wifi card then swap it in.

2. Apply the 200Mhz_bclk mod to improve X3100 performance so don't need the decoder.

 

Yes it has a swappable faceplate.
The faceplate from the optical drive fits not really good. (pic1)
You have to remove four retaining clips and glue the faceplate to the caddy.
Also the LED would be not visible.

I moded the newmodeus bezel (pic2), cut a little slot in the caddy, enlarged one hole on the left side and removed a little pin on the right side.
Now the newmodeus bezel fits perfect.
I will stick it with some hot glue.
The newmodeus removal tool works fine and theres no gap at the underside of the notebook. (pic3+4)

For me its the best solution. Otherwise i would take the optical drive faceplate for a perfect stealth look.

//edit: Do you seen the edit of my last post?
(The pictures of the board and the question about the led mod.) Thank you!

 

Very nice work there. Now you have the overall best caddy: newmodeus-faceplate + Fenvi metal chassis + TRIM supporting Marvell sata-to-pata bridge chip.

Can you check with a voltmeter to see if the top side of the R1 pad is 3.3V? If it is then shorting the R1 resistor pad shown would allow it to run as slave as described here.

Yes, the SATA LED mod requires connecting pin 37 (DASP) of the JAE50 connector to the +ve terminal of the LED. The logic level on the DASP pin is used to light the 2510P/NC2400 HDD LED.

 

Heya guys. OK, I am coming back to the hard drive options. A couple of weeks ago, I had submitted a post about whether I could upgrade to the Toshiba MK1634GAL drive and whether it would work or not. After WEEKS of researching and finding info, I think I might have found a solution to some questions.

So we know that the majority of our drives we have in the HP that came as standard (Such as my HP MK8009GAH), has a 512K Bytes per sector (HOST) and 512K Bytes per sector (DISK). Well I found out that the Toshiba MK1634GAL has a 512K Bytes per second (HOST) and a 4096 Bytes per sector (DISK). So what does this mean?

Well it means that you can ONLY run Operating systems that are capable of running on a Hard drive that has a 4096 Bytes per sector (disk) WHICH are Windows 7 (SP1 and above) and Windows Vista (With a HOTFIX). This drive is NOT compatible for installing Windows XP. So basically, you cannot install any operating system below Windows Vista.

I found a couple of sites that actually show what I am trying to talk about.

Here is the first site from Microsoft that explain physical and logical sector sizes:

Information about Microsoft support policy for large-sector drives in Windows

Then there are these sites from Toshiba that explain the drive specs for hard drives (MK8009GAH vs MK1634GAL).

Toshiba Storage Products : 1.8-inch HDD MKxx09 series

Toshiba Storage Products : 1.8-inch HDD MKxx34 series

http://www3.toshiba.co.jp/storage/english/spec/hdd18/31.htm

(The above link is specs for the MK2431GAH drive, compare those to the MK1634GAL)


So what I am trying to get at is that, those people who tried to install a 4096K Bytes per sector (DISK) with Windows XP might have been getting issues with trying to install and operating system. It might also be the case with those people trying to install Windows 7 without SP1 and Windows Vista, without the hotfix.

I am thinking that if I did buy a Toshiba MK1634GAL 160 GB hard drive, that it SHOULD work with Windows 7 64 BIT SP1! I am definitely going to buy one and try it out.

Also, just one more point out. Remember how at the beginning, there was a post saying the Toshiba MK2431GAH 240 GB was NOT compatible? Well from the above Toshiba specifications, the MK2431GAH is the SAME disk and host block size as the MK1634GAL. So maybe the MK2431GAH CAN work on our HP 2510P laptops, but only with Windows 7 SP1 or Windows Vista with the hotfix!

What do you guys think about this? Nando?

If anyone else is willing to take a chance at trying to install a Toshiba MK1634GAL (or MK2431GAH for trying sakes, if you can afford it in case it doesn't work!) with Windows 7 SP1 or Windows Vista and the hotfix, that would be really great for finding out if these hard drives will work and getting the most space for our laptops at the cheapest price.

Thanks.

Just an update. I was on ebay and I can't believe I found this. I found two users that bought this for their laptop. A user with a Dell D420 wrote this comment for the MK2431GAH 240 GB hard drive:

Date: 09/18/2011

"I love this HDD, It fits my tiny laptop, Dell D420, and performs great!!!" by: Member id vfrdude04 ( Feedback Score Of 16) This is amazing. I was running a 60gb HDD and upgraded to this, and my computer is a world of difference now, I have 4 times more space and i can download and transfer files faster than i ever have been. Well worth the money. The seller was outstanding too. They always kept in touch with me, and even sent me a free gift that was a universal card reader.

A user with a HP laptop wrote this:

"If you need more storage in your netbook or ipod this drive is great." by: Member id ice-blu ( Feedback Score Of 136) Excellent hard drive if you need a 1.8". I replaced the stock Toshiba hard drive in my HP netbook with this drive and it has been great. Same physical size as a 120gb and a little bigger than the 60Gb the netbook shipped with but just remove the housing the 60gb ships and it will fit in the space.

Definite improvement over my existing drive. It sems to run faster and its really nice to have 240gigs to play with.


So actually, I think I am going to risk it and try installing this 240GB hard drive instead. I will update you guys as soon as I receive it and see what happens! Cross your fingers guys!

 

The specifications of those Toshibas show Bytes-per-Sector=512(HOST) and Bytes-per-Sector=4096(DISK). It appears to use 512E mode, where the 4k physical sector is emulated as 8x512byte sectors. In that case it should even work with XP.

I guess we'll find out soon enough courtesy of your pioneering efforts

 

Hey guys.

Got a 2510p off ebay.

Got a Samsung 1.8" PATA HDD. Stupid ZIF connector. Shoulda used something normal like SATA...

I think the HDD has power. It's really hard to tell, I do hear some chirping down there. Just got the HDD off ebay.

I can't get either detected by the boot manager. The CD was working then it stopped showing up and now all I have is Network Controller.

It's pretty hard to find help on these things. What is amiss?

 

try without optical drive! (master slave issue)
check the connector, the zif hdd has a stifener to be flicked up (very tiny but realy functional!) cable should be inserted w/o pressure/ force!

try again maybe twisted connector like with mx nano (turn around harddrive and don't twist the cable

should solve it or just try another zif connector! from ebay ,)

 

Hiya. What model is your Samsung hard drive you have?

Check this site out. It shows you how to release the ZIF/LIF slot and also how to put in the cable. Make sure your cable is properly inserted and the latch closed tight. Also make sure the ZIF cable is properly attached to the motherboard once you are placing the hard drive back into the laptop.

Installing a ZIF Drive Into the Digital Intelligence 1.8" Hard Drive Enclosure

You can enlarge the pictures to just get an idea of how the latch works and how to insert the cable.

Hope the hard drive works after.

 

I'll check out that master slave issue.

It's a Samsung HS04THB.

(Sorry. Inception is playing in the background.)

edit: system reports: Media Test Failure: check cable.

the screen flickers a bit when the hdd "chirps" and then the media test failure. "Non-System boot disk or...." The ZIF adaptor cable is on tight like a clamshell on the mobo. Taking out the CD drive changes nothing.

 

See INFO: replacement ZIF cable showing how to check the ZIF stiffener. My own ZIF cable had the gold pins lift from the cable preventing a proper electrical connection. A replacement 2510P ZIF cable shown in this link fixed the problem.

Other option is to remove the optical drive and use a caddy + 2.5" SATA/PATA HDD/SSD instead.

 

I have two of those. The original and a replacement for the caddy I had to buy.

They look flawless.

edit: well, actually, one of them is flawless. It's what is in there now. Just pulled the HDD and the CD can be detected. Not both at the same time. With CD out nothing is detected. Using a HDD in the CD bay would be pointless as I just could have gone with another model I saw that fit my req'ments execpt it had no CD drive. CD drive or bust.

 

oward also had issues getting his Samsung HS122JC seen. He too could not get it to boot with his 2510P. Best bet would be to identify how to hardwire the Samsung as master. It's likely going to be one of 2510P's non-connected pins on the 1.8" ZIF connector as shown in the schematic snippet below:



Could try jumpering pin1+2 as is used for Toshiba ZIF drives to set them as slave. If trying that then try booting without the optical drive in case it sets it as slave.

 

Hello again,
sorry for disturbing you again, but how can I enable brightness control in Windows XP, besides installing HP Quick Launch buttons, which is too resource heavy for me (4 apps and one service needs to be running, sometimes it causes low virtual memory warning)? I just need these buttons to WORK, I don't need any bars with fading vista-like effects. I thought about loading only specific DLLs from Quick Launch, however don't know which ones.

Any idea?
Thanks

PS: In KDE 4 it works without any software.

 

Hello, I have problems with my 2510p, I have 3 different battery, when I connect the charger the orange LED lights, windows says it is recharging, but always stays at 0%, it is possible that the chip that controls the load is broken ?

thank you very much

 

It's possible the charging mechanism is faulty but I'd confirm the batteries aren't faulty first by resetting the internal battery calibration. Do that by hitting F8 to halt Win7/XP bootup, connect the battery and disconnect the AC adapter. Then just let the system sit at the Win7/XP bootmenu until it powers off due to the battery being fully discharged. If the battery has decent charge then might be best done overnight while you sleep for minimal inconvenience.

Then try to recharge it. You'll be able to see much charge you've got by seeing how long it starts and runs for. Sometimes placing the battery in a freezer overnight resuscitates the cells back into life.

 

one problem with dsdt tables from nando4,

sometimes when booting on battery the fan just runs on load, if switching to standby and back sovles this.

its a bit annoying, i use dsdt 30% tables.

latest bios is up and running.

i have odd hdd (2,5") and no internal storage.

running windows xp. sp3

 

Hi this is my first post in 2510p owners lounge. i have two laptops 2510p and 2530p, honestly i like the 2510p external design more than the 2530p external design, coz using the Touchpad and the keyboard of 2510p is more comfortable than using them in 2530p; i like the design of 2510p Touchpad where it is not a standalone piece, but it is consolidated with the front frame of 2510p, which make it more sturdy and easier to use, but the 2530p is far faster than 2510p (has higher CPU 6MB cache with higher frequency and FSB, SATAII, and up to 8GB RAM). so my question to nando4 and other gurus is; can i install an 2530p Motherboard on 2510p chassis? and is it 100% fit? if so, this will be great!

 

I secretly wished for the same. I wanted the 2530P or newer internals in a 2510P chassis as it is the smallest/lightest/simplest and most comfortable to use. Only thing I wanted from a 2530P was LCD parts - the webcam, the aluminium cover plate and the nightlight. The 2530P's aluminium palmrest I didn't care for - it wasn't welcoming to use on cold mornings.

I did compare 2530P and 2510P systemboards from pics and it looked like some screwholes were in different positions and the rear cover doors are in different places. So I never pursued a systemboard swap. Though you are most welcome to try and prove me wrong. A 2510P keyboard can be straight swapped into a 2530P with it looking like this.

Before you invest your time and $$, I'd suggest try a Lenovo X200/X201 and a Dell E4300 if need an ODD. If don't mind a 16:9 LCD then a Lenovo X220 is a great package with perhaps a Asus U24E worth a look too. I'm currently enjoying using a Dell E4300 as my runaround box. Though it's Alps trackpad will probably be less comfortable than a 2510P's synaptics one. I use the touchstyk pretty much exclusively so am not fussed by the touchpad.

 

Can any body help with founding fan controlling in this code ?
To my mind Method witch control fan is Method (GFAN, 0, Serialized)...

 

Hey guys. Just another update. I haven't ordered the Toshiba 240GB MK2431GAH hard drive yet, but I am ordering one soon from Hong Kong. I am super busy with my business at the moment, and haven't been able to do anything about it as of yet.

I previously wrote about the compatability of this hard drive. Well, I managed to e-mail a previous buyer of this hard drive, who fitted the Toshiba MK2431GAH 240GB hard drive into his Dell D420, which also has the same 1.8" PATA drive. He originally had a Toshiba MK8009GAL and he replaced it with the 240 GB hard drive and it worked perfectly he said! And the other thing he mentioned was, that he DEFINITELY Installed Windows 7 Professional 64 BIT with SP1! So that means this hard drive should 100% work in the HP 2510p as well. Here is the e-mail he sent me back:

Dear rangeroverhse8,

HEY!

Youre actually not the first one to ask me about this hard drive. . I originally had a 60GB from Dell in it with windows 7. Then when i bought the Toshiba MK2431GAH 240GB, i also put windows 7 pro 64 bit with SP1 on it. The only "special" thing i had to do to my D420 to get the hard drive to work was, switch out the ZIF connector on the old hard drive to the new one.

If you need instructions on how to do that just let me know, it's super easy. But i'm not sure what people are griping about in the reviews, but this hard drive is phenomenal especially with Windows 7 on it. It took like 3 weeks to get to me because it was shipped overseas to South Carolina, so expect that if you buy it from the same seller. But the seller was great and so is this hard drive.

My computer is actually a little bit quicker since this hard drive has better read and write speeds. I'd definitely get it, if the price is right and your looking for some more space to store stuff. I'm actually using my D420 with the hard drive installed to type this message. If you have any more questions feel free to ask.

Have a Merry Christmas!
-Justin

-vfrdude04

So, if someone else wants to buy this hard drive, Aliexpress is selling this Toshiba 240GB MK2431GAH for US $119, free shipping by DHL Express to any country in the world! That is a really cheap deal! I am ordering it from this same company, and Aliexpress has got escrow, so there is 100% safety buying through this site. If anyone wants the link, please let me know.

I will be posting the pictures and that as soon as I order mine. Hope someone else ends up ordering it as well, and making use of the 240 GB space. Thanks.

 

is there any way to undervolt effectively under windows 7?

i have rmclock but it doesnt work like it does under xp (doesn't switch the voltages)

nhc is an option?

 

i am undervolting with nhc.

 

Hi
i install Intel® Centrino® Advanced–N + WiMAX 6250

wifi allright but Wimax not working What should I do?

 

Plug the Wimax into the 2510P's WWAN slot. That's the slot that has USB pins connected. You might need to mask out pins 20, 42 and 44 as well if it doesn't detect it. You will however lose wifi if you do this. (put back the original 4965AGN for it).

 

one more problem occuring:

on the background of windws7 its to be seen best:

stripes, like with a not fully connected vga cable,
everythign works fine but these stripes.

They look like this

big bar; little space; thinner bar


just the left 3rd of the screen doesnt show them,

i see 6 of those stripes on 2/3 of the screen.

is it a faulty panel, gpu, or cable?

 

if the problem looks exactly the same regardless of resolution used then it's either the panel or the cable. If the problem shows itself as a wider panel when you lower resolution then the systemboard's gpu is the fault.

 

for now it is gone :-S

did nothing.

sometimes hang on wakeup from standby/ regualar boot. may be caused by mod bios? (disabled wifi solves the issues) doesn't turn up very frequent.

maybe with ssd (works gr8 now!)?

 

Hello, I am using 2510p with modded bios with no blacklist devices (installed non-HP genuine 3G module).

Two days ago with no reason the sound from the notebook just went off. Everything was normal, even the notebook wasn't moved from the desk. Just suddenly no sound. With headphones the sound is working and i think that once heard the login sound from windows 7 without headphones.

After some googleing I found that this problem is common and is not caused by exactly defined reason.
HP Communities - HP Compaq 2510p No Sound (Vista) - Enterprise Business Community
Even its discussed here:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/hp-...87-hp-2510p-owners-lounge-30.html#post5545113

Only mod I have done to my notebook is adding 3G module and changing the bios as i mentioned, but it was over a year ago.
Yesterday I opened the drive caddy and reconnected the ZIF connector, but no change at all.

Can you suggest me any solution or any idea of solving this problem out?

-edit- found some speakers from ebay, do you think that only solution is to replace it? Does it worth the time to try something else or it's only solution?

 

Hi. I saw your posting online.

Actually, I think you are trying to reconnect the wrong ZIF connector. The connector you should be looking for is the panel where all your buttons are located on, with the cover that covers the LCD hinges. In the HP Parts catalogue and service manual, it is called the "Switch Cover" part number 451717-001.

If you remove that switch cover (It is simple, you just need to grab onto the plastic hinges that are covering the LCD, by tilting the lcd all the way opened and removing it slightly from the rear, by sliding something underneath one of the sides till you can get it loose, then working your way around the other side), there is one ZIF cables. This is where the problem might be. You should reattach all the cables to your Switch Cover and then see if your sound works. I think this is what was trying to be explained in the HP Communities post, but not in such a great way.

If you need the link to download the HP Service Manual, go here:

http://bizsupport2.austin.hp.com/bc/docs/support/SupportManual/c02729317/c02729317.pdf

Hope this helps.

 

I got myself a used HP 2510 (from work) a week ago, but Im having a problem with it.

The processor is 60 degrees celcius idle and can reach a scorching 90 degrees while watching flash content.

I've tried to use air on a can to blow the dust from the fan, but it didn't seem to be much dust in it.

Why do laptop processors get so damn hot?

 

I could undervolt my U7600 to 0.85V at full load (133x9) which drops peak temps. Easily done using Throttlestop software if you want to try.

If want to take it one step further then pull the topcover+LCD off the system, remove the systemboard, remove the heatsink, clean the existing thermal paste and add some Shin-Etsu thick paste in it's place. The idle temps will be lower. Consider doing the 200Mhz_bclk mod when you have the system dismantled if you have no stability issues when running [email protected] to gain faster IO performance.

 

Hello,
There's a new BIOS available at HP's Support. Any luck installing it over modded F.10 or any idea if downgrade back to F.10 is possible?
Thanks

EDIT: HP answered my question without being asked - "After installing this BIOS version onto the system, prior BIOS versions cannot be installed onto the system. "
So stay away from this version, unless it is modded. Luckily, I still have F.10

HP is pretty clear about enhancements - "Provides improved security for the BIOS flashing process." Although I'm sure there'll be more changes.

 

one more 2510p owner... bought 100€ without zif hdd... waiting ebay caddy... running at linux mint dvd live atm... it seems good replacement of my tower when wife play cityville ^^
(sorry for my poor english)

 

please help, my 2510p runs fine except the panel/ cable!

i can see rows (vertical , in pairs with little space between them) like from a tank (line space line space (from top to bottom)...)

all over the panel.

on vga these don't appear (sometimes even they don't appear internal)

can this then be the flex cable (tried pushing/bending the silver encovered cable found under keyboard didn't help))?

 

Is there a dissasembly guide to change the CPU heatsink?

 

Hi to all
I just bought an OCZ Vertex Plus 120Gb SSD SATA as well as a caddy to replace my optical drive and hopefully get some speed. I'm very new to the computer world, and wondered if anyone might be able to help me with getting my laptop off the ground. I got stuck with the BIOS - on booting, my system stops with "non system disk found" error. Any help (step by step - just like the one you'd give to a newbie)?

Thanks in advance

 

du you have a internal hdd/ssd?

-> master slave issue!

do you have dvd-rw drive?
-> working? -> check caddy!

do you have hdd working in caddy?
-> check master/slave issue and or ssd!


at all?

-> try ssd in a native sata device (to proof it is working.

if not even optical drive is working:

-> check connector (blow out dust)

 

I'm trying to run my 2510p with an SSD, but it's giving me a lot of troubles. I have 3 SSD's, all should work: RunCore 128GB, KingSpec 64GB and a no-name ("Active") 64GB one.

On the no-name I could install the OS, worked fine. Until I took it out, replaced it with the RunCore (which didn't work, see below), and put this 64GB SSD back in. Now it says "Non-system disk or disk error, replace and strike any key when ready", and when running the Windows 7 setup-DVD it shows as Unallocated Space.
On the 128GB RunCore, I had an OS installed, which booted mostly. Sometimes it gave the "no system disk" error, but after turning the laptop off and back on, it got detected. I wanted to re-install Windows 7 on the 128GB RunCore, and I can see it when selecting the disk to install, but after selecting it to install the OS, the installer hangs on "Copying Windows Files" at 0%. But that went nicely on the no-name 64GB SSD...
And the KingSpec: can't remember what the problem was exactly, but that didn't run smoothly either...


Are there any tricks to improve the stability of the use of SSD's in this 2510p?

Another idea I had was to replace the connector: after swapping disks/SSDs a dozen times, maybe it has a problem. But what is the right partnumber? On eBay I can find DD00T2HD001, DD00T1HD116, DD00T1HD019,... some claiming to be compatible with 2510p and NC2400, some claiming to be compatible with 2530p too (wasn't that sata?).

The BIOS I'm using is a modded F.10 from this thread, and only using the ZIF-port for a HDD/SSD: the DVDRW is still in this 2510p.

 

The Runcore ProIVs with earlier firmware had a known problem with Win7 installation hanging or failing to complete. Try a new firmware. If it's still under warranty you could also request a the new Marvell sata-to-pata bridged version instead. A workaround to the install problem is to use a good SSD/HDD of same or smaller capacity, load Win7 onto it, then do a block-for-block copy in Linux to the Runcore ProIV hosted on a USB port (eg: dd if=/dev/sda of=/dev/sdc bs=64k). Boot the cloned SSD then go into Win7 disk management and expand the primary boot partition to fill the SSD.

You may too have an issue with the ZIF connector... you are pioneering the way on this issue. All I can say is all the 4 ZIF SSDs that I had in my previous 2510P: G-Monster/K3E (EWS720), ProIV/K3 (Indilinx) worked without the bootup hang error.

One strange thing I did have occur with the ZIF cable. One 'new one' from HP worked fine with the ZIF HDD but failed with the Renice K3E. I reverted back to the previous one which worked fine with the SSD and HDD. I didn't check the part numbers to see if there was any difference at that time.