*HP 2510p Owners Lounge*

can you post a picture of where the points are, that we can see, how we can solder a cable there?

what kind of cable would you suggest for this?

is there the possibility of soldering them to a connector for sata, not to contact the native connectors?


what pll pins have to be soldered where?

 

INFO: 2510P SATA retrofit



Above: lines required to enable SATA on a 2510P as summarized from the 2510P schematic

I don't have a 2510P to look at now but this is a summary of my earlier reported findings. All SATA signal wiring should use shielded cable to ensure signal integrity. That means IDE cable cannot be used.

1. Wire the SATA TX/RX lines to your desired SATA connector

- T158-T161 (the SATA TX/RX lines) are all in block V just under where the wifi card sits. They were just solder pads on the systemboard. Ideally you'd want to solder only once to them and get it done right as lots of soldering would sort of erase them. They will lead to your SATA connector (2.5/1.8"/mSATA). If using mSATA then could wire it to the WWAN socket's pci-e lines as they are not used. The 2.5"/1.8" will also need 5V/3V wired to it respectively, plus GND. 5V can be taken off the USB line. There's plenty of 3V points on the systemboard. Refer to the 1.8"/2.5" SATA connector pinouts on google as a reference.

2. Wire the SATA CLK signals to the PLL

T171, T172 were also under the wifi card area and T173, T174 were near the PLL

3. Wire additional I/O lines

I couldn't find T170 (SATACLKREQ#) nor T132 (SATALED) but believe they are not so important. T170 wouldn't be needed so long as R81 is in place. I couldn't find R81 so it appears they didn't include it. Meaning, need to put a 10k resistor in place of R81.

T137 (SATA3GP) needs to go via a 8.2k resistor (R487) to 3V. This may not be so important.

4. Enable the SATA controller and see if the drive is being detected

Once you have it electrically connected proceed to enable the SATA controller as described here. Do a Device Manager scan where win7 will show the SATA controller. If the drive is all working then it will detect it and allow you to read/write/format it.

5. Flash the 6710b bios to gain native SATA boot support

If (4) detects the SATA drive OK then an look at flashing the 6710b bios to give native SATA BIOS bootup support.

NOTE: last time I tested the 6710b bios it wouldn't recognize nor allow boot off the PATA drives (1.8" or HDD via ODD). This is probably because the 6710b uses a GPIO pin for MBAY_DETECT so when it detects the PATA drive it allows boot off it. This is something the 2510P doesn't have wired so the 6710b bios would need to be modded to ignore that GPIO pin detection code to allow PATA drive bootup.

In any case, recommend you make a backup of the 2510P bios chip in the 1.8" drive bay prior to flashing the 6710b bios in case you need to revert back to the original 2510P PATA booting for whatever reason.

51nb.cn interest

Looks like 51nb.cn members want 2510P SATA support too. Anybody who understands English and Chinese want to act as a go-between to get this info across to them and any of their findings back to us?

 

hi nando4:

2510P-F10-SP52914-SLIC21-nowhitelist-dualIDA-fan40pct.rar (899 KB)
File is deleted.

???
my:2510p
email:[email protected]
thanks

 

2510P-F10-SP52914-SLIC21-nowhitelist-dualIDA-fan40pct.rar

 

Hi,li8w8:

Thanks a lot.I try to download this RAR package, but the page always show errors. Would you please send it to my email box? ([email protected])

Regards.

 

HP's 2510P bios F.30 - do NOT upgrade to it for these reasons unless

help !

 

F.30 puts your system back to HP standards and cannot be modified or rolled back using software. That is, you now have a WWAN+wifi whitelist, SLIC 2.0 good for VISTA/XP only, no dual-IDA and standard fan profile. There was plenty of warning to NOT flash this version on the first page.

No need to fret.. you are not the first and certainly won't be the last vicitim of HP's trap.

Your only recourse is to have the bios chip reprogrammed. Grains in the UK can provide you the pre-programmed chip for 12.50 pounds + shipping. Works out to be ~US$23, See HP Compaq Business Notebook BIOS Chips . A costly mistake.

 

Anybody want to give this a try? I have no 2510P atm to try it.

 

At least, I am happy that I have almost finished my 2510p building, I don't want to mess up anything and my WWAN port is not free.

But I will try the PLL fix on the debug port if I will experience PLL problems under Ubuntu Linux.

Anyway, I forgot to mention the link here for my separate how-to for the Broadcom Crystal HD with nc2400/2510p:

How-to: Installing a Broadcom Crystal HD (BCM70012) into a nc2400/2510p

 

Hey guys. First time here, I have Asus N61JQ.

I can get HP 2510p for 225€, so I have a few questions:

- Are there any problems with drivers if I go with Windows 7?
- Any overheating issues over years?
- Can I get anything from that integrated graphics?
- Is big brother's (8510p) processor a lot better... because I can get 8510p for 235€...

Thank you for your answers.

 

Recommend you consider a Dell E4300, HP 2530P and Lenovo X200

Yeah.. 8510P has a faster CPU but it's a completely different category of notebook.

If you want a smaller system then suggest check local prices of a Dell E4300 and HP 2530P. While not as pretty as a 2530P and is a tad larger, a E4300 uses cheaper/faster DDR3 RAM, is faster than a 2530P, has DVI via the docking station, has a esata/USB port and a backlit keyboard option . I was able to overclock one to 3.16Ghz (see sig), yet undervolt it to the same point as a L9400 2530P.

If you don't need an optical drive then consider a Lenovo X200 which also uses DDR3 RAM and has a DVI docking connector output. All of these units can get better performance-per-watt than a 2510P mostly it seems because the SATA interface and 45nm CPU.

In my locale a lot of businesses are getting rid of E4300s as they are out of warranty so they are very low priced. They make a bargain system - better and cheaper than it's successor i5 E4310 system due to the better battery life when undervolted, lower weight and most importantly, the 16:10 LCD that's perfect for an ultraportable.

Brilliant stuff. Power consumption is one of the main reasons why I'd want to get a SATA interface working on a 2510P. Eg: I can undervolt a 2530P with a 5400rpm 2.5" SATA HDD down to 5.0W at idle. The best I could do with a 2510P was 5.8W with a much slower ZIF HDD. So a 2530P is significantly better performing, runs cooler and has better battery life than a 2510P. All good reasons to spend a bit more to get one.

 

I found Dell M4300 now, but it's 70€ more expensive than HP 8510p. Dell D630 is also available, same price as HP 2510p.

I will go for a smaller laptop I guess, because my Asus beast is 16". So D630 or 2510p.

- DELL Latitude D630, Intel Core 2 Duo 2.0 GHz, 2 GB, 80 GB , 14.1''
- HP 2510p, Intel Core 2 Duo 1.2 GHz, 1 GB, 60 GB, 12.1''

I can get Windows 7 and RAM for free. I like HP, because it's smaller and sexy, but Dell has more power. Dunno...

 

I was referring to a 13" Dell E4300, not the M4300. The E4300 comes with a 2.5" SATA HDD, SATA optical drive, weighs 1.7kgs (same as a 2530P) and comes with a 2.26/2.4/2.53 P9300/P9400/P9600 25W CPU. It's one generation newer than a D630/2510P so it would be more $$ than those.

 

My first post here and I must first of all say thank you for all the contributing members here for the excellent wealth of information that everybody has provided!

I own a 2510p, pretty much stock, HP rebuilt the innards (new motherboard and fan assembly under warranty about a year ago) so the machine should still have some life left. It however is driving me crazy!!! as far as how slow the HHD is. So based on what I've read on this forum, I'm considering ordering a RunCore 64GB Pro IV 1.8" 5mm PATA Zif SSD Solid State Drive - RCP-IV-Z1864-C from MDD which I also found on this site! Thank you!

1st) Please do let me know if the RCP-IV-Z1864-C is the correct drive for my 2510p.

2nd) Is it worth spending the $$$ on this machine (I'm in Canada so with shipping and duties, looking at about $140 for the drive update) I ask as I found an i7 2540p that I could buy for about $350, but it only has 2 gb ram , like my 2510p and not running an ssd so the hard drive would still be a bottleneck issue.

3rd) My machine has 2gb ram, likely not going to up it, and will likely install a 32bit windows 7 on the machine (currently running vista business or vista mobile or something like that). So as this will be a clean install and upgrade, what other mode would you guys recommend while I'm at it to maximize the performance of my 2510p

One last thing, is the RunCore SSD from MDD plug and play or do I need to source any type of adapters? thanks

Many thanks in advance to this awesome forum!

Matthew

 

2510P is still a light and capable unit but it's ZIF drive, lack of RAM expansion and runs relatively hot all shows it's age. I wouldn't be spending the money on a ZIF SSD.

The high bang-per-buck 2510P upgrades

Also keep an eye on Dell E4300, HP 2530P and Lenovo X200 prices. Those are certainly more capable units that come with a faster and more efficient CPU, SATA storage subsystem and webcam/nightlight/backlit keyboard. So while a 2530P also uses a 1.8" drive, SATA's AHCI mode groups reads/writes so it's noticable faster than PATA. It also runs at 5400rpm rather than 4200rpm.

The combo of 45nm CPU and SATA storage subsystem sees these systems give better battery life than a 2510P. The E4300/X200 use a standard 2.5" drive and both offer DVI ports on their docking station. The E4300 providing an optical drive as well but no 9-cell battery option.

 

Looking for better panels:

Facts:
20pin
12,1"
mate!
LED
affs, flexview, etc.

anyone knows one?

please post the model and producing brand! (hyundai, samsung, hannstar)

thanks

 

Overclocking under Linux on recent systems

I have Ubuntu Oneiric (64 bit) on my new 2510p. Nando wrote a nice overclocking tutorial under Linux, but some changes are needed for recent systems. The following post describes the differences.

- The original link to the lfsb source code is broken. I could find the 2510p related source from somewhere else and adapted to the lfsb again. It can be downloaded here.
- Adding acpi_enforce_resources=lax to the kernel boot parameters in grub otherwise the ACPI reserves the I/O communication address to the PLL chip on the SMBus exclusively and the i2c_i801 module cannot open an i2c channel to the PLL chip. More detailed reasons are described here.
- After loading the i2c_i801 kernel module, /dev/i2c-14 is the communication node to the PLL chip. The modified lfsb sources starts the communication on this channel.
- I was able to resume back to 167 Mhz and I put a "sleep 3" inbetween the re-init of the i2c kernel modules and executing lfsb.
- Now glxgears is not good to measure the performance boost since it is slow caused by the vsync. The "cat /proc/cpuinfo" command shows a "bogomips" field: it is ~2400 for the U7600 without overclocking and ~3000 with 167 Mhz FSB. Update: Sometimes the bogomips values for both cores show 3000, but sometimes only the first core has 3000 or none of them. Nevertheless, the overclocking works fine.

 

Hi,

I have two different 65W chargers. Both chargers work fine for my new 9 cell battery (6600 mAh) in the 2510p when the laptop is suspended or switched off, but when the laptop is on - without high CPU load -:

1. One charger does not charge the battery, but keeps the actual battery level.
2. The other charger charges the battery, but sometimes the Ubuntu reports the charger is removed while it is connected.

Both chargers work fine for my nc2400 with 6-cell battery. I assume that I would need a 90W charger...

Does anybody know the official Volt/Amper specifications of the HP 90W charges for 2510p? I see two different versions on ebay: 19V 4.74A vs. 18.5V 4.9A I would bet on the 18.5V 4.9A, because the 65W chargers are also 18.5V, but who knows.

kecsap

edit:

ok, I have found here that the same voltage is what I must check: forum

 

I'm looking for an economic business notebook and I've found a 2510P (U7600) in good conditions and a so so battery at 160 euro.

What do You think about it ?

Could it be again a good product (If used only with office and programming applications) ?

 

i won't buy it for programming issues.

its 1.2 or 1.6 ghz cpu is realy weak for such.

office no problem with ssd, at all ssd makes it quite useable!

i would go for thinkpad x200!

it misses optical drive but thats for better cpu and grafic.

 

Unfortunately the x200 is too expensive for me.

2530p or 6910p could be more interesting options, considering a price of 230/240 euro.

I need also an average portability and a good battery life, if possible.

Are there other options with this small budget ?

 

realy too expensive?

have a look a a barbone x200!

assuming youre living inside US

check thinkpadforums.com

or check ebay for ones with signs of useage!


assuming to life in Europe,

check thinkpad-forum.de!

there you can trade-in your old Notebook for example,

or just search for a nearly empty x200!

oterwhise go for a x61 (non x61s version!)

with a higher CPU for example take these:

4MB L2-Cache
2,00 GHz (T7300), 2,20 GHz (T7500)

Intel Core 2 Duo (Penryn)

3MB L2-Cache
2,10 GHz (T8100), 2,40 GHz (T8300)
6MB L2-Cache
2,50 GHz (T9300)

 

Are you sure the s version is not better, at least in terms of temperature, noise and battery life ?

In any way Don't you consider that hp 2510p or dell D430 could be good alternatives ?

thks

 

I would not buy a 2510p with original HDD for daily use and the SSDs are too expensive compared to the value of the laptop. Then it is better to go with a Lenovo.

On the other hand, I think a 2510p can be still pretty usable nowadays if:
- The original optical drive is swapped with a caddy+7200rpm 2.5" SATA drive
- Overclocking the CPU (it is very likely to handle 1.5-1.6 Ghz without problems).

You can buy 2510p without HDD on ebay from UK or Germany for very reasonable price. Caddy+used 2.5" 120-160 Gb HDD is for 35-50 EUR.

 

Thanks for you advice.

Like alternatives, what about the more recent and more expensive Ideapad U350 and HP 2530P ?

I've found both at the same price of 280 euro.

The HP is used but in excellent conditions while the U350 is really new.

The difference of same price can be justified in terms of performance and display quality respecy the x61, 2510p and so on ?

 

Ideapad U350: I never used such machine, but is not it like a netbook? Looking at the specs if U350 vs 2530p then it is a clearly a 2530p win.

When I started to think to buy a laptop two month ago, I was hesitated between the 2510p vs. 2530p and then I found this video:

HP 2510p versus 2530p - YouTube

As you can see the standard 2510p vs. 2530p has only minimal difference between the boot time. So I decided for the 2510p. In my opinion, the only thing what you get when choosing 2530p instead of 2510p:
- Expresscard slot vs. an old PCMCIA
- 2 memory slots vs. 1 slot
- SATA vs. PATA, but I am concerned about the real speed-up
- A bit more horsepower from the CPU.

I use(d) my old and current laptops for programming and work purposes:
- HP nc2400 (Core Duo 1.2Ghz): Brain-dead slow harddrive (like standard 2510p config), pretty slow CPU compared to Core 2 Duo CPUs. Not good performance and responsiveness for nowadays.
- Dell E6400 (Core 2 Duo 2.2Ghz): Good responsiveness, fair performance.
- My current 2510p (Core2 Duo, overclocked to 1.5Ghz): very similar responsiveness+performance like Dell E6400, but smaller, lighter and much longer battery life. Regarding the value/money rate, I think this is the best choice for little money.
- Dell E6320 (Core i7): nothing can beat this platform, very good, it is the current top in performance and price also.

 

for the price and the 2510 is pretty much the best. But for the upgrade potential i think he 2530 is way ahead.

Expresscard - allows you to use a external GFX card for gaming or if thats not your thing, you can run multipule monitors for word processing or drawing.
Memory - 1 slot DDR2 677 vs 2 slot DDR2 800
Sata vs Pata - the number of sata SSD's far out weight the pata.
CPU - slight power boost but also longer battery life.

But bang for buck. Its the best choice.

Also nando4 has put a great table on the first post comparing the differences.

 

There was a time when 2530P units cost 2x to 2.5x more than a 2510P. Now the gap is around 1.5x. An overclocked 2530P ([email protected]) sees it's cpumark is twice that of a overclocked 2510P ([email protected]). So it's more than a slight power performance boost. It does give better battery life helped along with SATA which gives cheaper storage and is faster. So for performance and battery life the 2530P is the better choice.

From the sounds of it you are budget constrained. In which case look for a 2530P system from the UK or US, or perhaps get one and sell it's valuable 1.8" microSATA HDD and optical drive and replace it with a cheap 2.5" SSD/HDD and ebay caddy.

Same thing can be done with a 2510P. Sell it's valuable ZIF HDD + PATA optical drive and replace them with a sata caddy + 60GB OCZ Vertex/Agility 2 SSD, overclock it to 1.5/1.66Ghz. Then you have a very capable ultraportable with a SSD for low $$. Only thing that could touch it pricewise might be SU2300/SU4100/SU7300 equipped CULV Acer/MSI/Asus 11.6"/12.1" unit. I personally would never buy one of those because of their consumer grade gloss everything (bezel, palmrest, top cover, LCD) and generally no internal WWAN options.

If someone could successfully perform the 2510P SATA retrofit then the only remaining reason to not buy a 2510P would be it's single DDR2 RAM slot.

 

I fitted the 2510p hardware into (mostly) nc2400 plastics.

The specs of my laptop:
- Modded bios
- U7600 overclocked to 1.5 Ghz
- No internal 1.8" HDD.
- WD SCORPIO 160GB SATA (WD1600BEVS) in caddy
- Advent 8115 Wireless Card (RT2571WF chipset)
- Broadcom Crystal HD card (BCM70012)
- 9-cell battery (6525 mAh = ~70 Wh, is it 8-cell in reality??)

So far I was able to decrease the power consumption in idle mode with lowest LCD brightness at 10-11 W under Ubuntu.

 

one question:

someone from germany here to sell me a

Switch cover (includes LED board and cable)

(ptnr is 451717-001)

for my 2510p

?

best regards li8w8

 

Hi, just a quick hello..

I have just bought a hp2510p with no charger and hd (+ broken lid catch). It seemed a reasonable price.

I recently bought a lovely little dell x300 it ran beautifully - but I wanted to try using a CF as a boot drive and eventually damaged the mobo (silly mistake from a begineer as the CF was faulty doh, but all the swapping around eventually broke it.)

I already have a 2.5 sata disk and have ordered a charger and 9.5mm sata caddy from ebay.

I have scanned through this excellent forum and guide and seen lots of talk about SSDs, but I was wondering whether it is worth buying "another" CF adapter, to reuse the CF connecting to the ZIF drive? I was considering installing the operating system but switching the temp files to use the sata drive if that is possible?

I am also planning to update the modded_bios, but I am unsure of whether I can update the bios directly from F05 or whether I need a newer starting point.

Although the catch is an imperfection, the replacement part is pretty expensive so I will leave it for the moment.

Thanks in advance for any help or advice.


Stuart

 

better get a small 1,8 ZIF SSD or DOM (need to isolate nd fix somehow)

thsi works better and after all you keep the 2510p benefit, the optical drive!

CFcards are bad harddisks they die fastly if not SLC memory

 

Cheap replacement latch: HP Compaq 2510p Series LCD Latch

As for cheap storage, these are my recommendations in order of cheapest/least technical to most technical:

I also recommend doing the 166Mhz_BCLK PLL pinmod to overclock U7600 2510P to 1.5Ghz/1.66Ghz (dual-IDA) without needing any software. A 2510P modded_bios is a must and NEVER upgrade to F.20. F.20 is HP's effort to stop the non-whitelist, dual-IDA, SLIC 2.1 and fan quietening benefits to the Santa Rosa/Penryn series business range that are in http://forum.notebookreview.com/hp-...0-87x0-85x0-6x10-27x0p-25x0p.html#post6654683 .

Worth noting HP's latest 13" Folio 13" and 11.6" 2170P is receiving a lot of praise. Those systems are similar size and weight as a 2510P but neither has an optical drive!! I still prefer the ergonomics of a $150 2510P to a $800+ Folio 13. Wish we could get a retro re-release with latest tech in it.

 

thanks for the replies.
@li8w8
Yeah I think I worked out the CF was a poor replacement in the trials with the x300 and then an older dell notebook. but assumed it was the old notebook I will avoid that and treat it as a bad move.

@nando
I will check out the replacement latch thanks for the link and I think I am aiming at the easy route of 2.5 sata in a caddy and then give the machine a test to make sure it is all working properly first and then go for the 166Mhz PLL pinmod and the modded bios, I assume you wrote this bios yourself nando as I have followed through the thread and other items in the forum most of these articles are a little out of my ability everything looks too tiny to solder and experiment with so I will try and keep to simple mods.

I will give back some feedback on what I have managed or put my hand up if I am stuck, if that is okay?

I did read your comment about the newer machines and to be honest I was convinced I was going to be buying a new mac air book 13.3, but I only use the littles ones for internet+email or VPN to my work machine - I as a hobby already buying a quick machine doesn't feel as good as getting all thats needed from an old one.

Thanks

Stuart

 

hi,

after the painful death of my nc2400 mainboard i have ordered now (beside a new mainboard for nc2400) a 2510p.

some questions where I think I can get great help here:

1) BIOS. regrettably already F.30 is flashed, so no downgrade is possible to flash a modded one.
I read in another thread abour reflashing the chip with this.
But, at least in my nc2400 I can see the bios chip looks like this on the mainboard (have not opened the 2510p for now ...) - or is this not the part of the bios which I have to reflash?
If it is, how does the "adapter" look like to fit in the flash device from above?

2) resoldering the LAN-port: steh 2510p has a damaged lan-port, it looks like "the cable was stronger". - the dead mainboard of the nc2400 has a working LAN-port, has already anybody tried to solder-out and solder-in of such one? I am not sure, I think I am able to, but the size does matter here - below 0.7mm I have never tried to, especially soldering out parts ... or should I just leave the lan-port (it is still working, but the cable cannot "click" in any more and it looks like ... aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa

3) the part with which the screen holds down if the notebook is closed (the part which you are touching and moving if you want to open, not the part which is holding down the display). quite often used, so I would like to change. does this part from the nc2400 fit in there? or can I buy this part seperately, how is it called?

Thank you.

 

Hi, I am still awaiting the arrival of the ebay 9.5mm caddy so have not done much yet apart from running ubuntu from the usb and checking out the little laptop.

Once I get the caddy I will put in the 300gb sata hd, but I am flumexed regarding a suitable operating system, I know it works with ubuntu, but it just feels a little "overpowered" for ubuntu I tend to put that on older laptops like hand-me-downs for kids or when xp pro took 3 minutes to boot up my Dell 510m. Also I cannot seem to find anything to use the "fingerprint" toy on the laptop for ubuntu, or any equivilent to setfsb in order to see whether I can make the hardware change to 166 fsb.

I have licenses for XP PRO although no install CD, it was in the period when Dell did not distribute the OS on CD with their machines.
I have a COA sticker on the bottom of the laptop for vista business but obviously no install dvd.
I do have my own dvd install for vista home premium which although was appalling when first released was not "all that bad" at the end.

Would I be better off buying another copy of windows 7, or should I use one of my old versions of windows, I am interested in trying out the DUAL IDA throttle stop change to allow both cores to run at 1200 for example rather than 1 @ 800 and 1 @1200 which is the current situation? Which I believe is a windows program.

Does the throttlestop program only change the settings for that session or in someway update the hardware to stay running both cores with full speed available?

Sorry so many questions, I got the little laptop as a project plaything, not a simple netbook.

Thanks for any input.

I am getting less keen on doing too much permenantly with a soldering iron, it will really anoy me if I break another laptop being overzelous.

 

The bios chip is socketted and can be accessed via the 1.8" drive bay. You can see it in the bottom right corner of the image below.




Unfortunately I never took an image of the 2510P bios while I had one. Grains bios repair in the UK can send you a pre-flashed bios chip if you can't get a pre F.20 one off another 2510P. HP Compaq Notebook BIOS Chips-EEPROM

If you do grab the 4MB image of a pre F.20 bios from a 2510P then please link here for others to access in case they fall victim to HP's attempt to prevent modded bios starting with F.20 and onwards. 51nb.cn users refer to F.20 flashers are incurring a "a great tragedy" . . .

I spoke of the LCD latch that holds the LCD down a few responses up. Please read.

The F.13 modded 2510P bios provided dual-IDA, SLIC 2.1 (Win7), no whitelist and modified fan profiles. That should sort your issues out.

By the sounds of it you are running a U7500-1.06 (7x133). That CPU will have no problems running at 1.16 (7x166) or 1.33 (8x166 - dualIDA) using either setFSB or via the 166Mhz_bclk mod. Only thing that you will probably need to do is change the 266Mhz SPDTable RAM entry to run at CAS=5 rather than CAS=4. If you don't want to do that memory mod, or have RAM that is write protected then consider doing the 200Mhz_bclk mod instead. There your U7500 would run at 1.2Ghz, with all the other IO running faster than they would with a 166Mhz_bclk mod.

 

thanks nando4, LCD latch ordered.

maybe you know, does bios-repair.co.uk email such images maybe? or, on ordering on bios-repair.co.uk is it possible there to wish the wanted bios version so I am sure I get one pre-F.20? nearly 20$ are not less just for a bios ....

Maybe somebody here wants to help me, means sending me a pre-F.20 bios chip from which I can clone? Or maybe somebody in here has already an image?

 

Hi Nando,

No, I have got a U7600 1.2

the system info is
Intel® Core™2 Duo CPU U7600 @ 1.20GHz × 2

but I am sure I look at one screen that showed 1*1.2Ghz and 1*800Mhz, which is what I thought highlighted that one core ran at 1.2Ghz and the other had a maximum speed of 800mhz - which was my understanding regarding the dual ida, maybe I dont really understand it well enough.

I cannot find that at all now? very strange the system monitor shows both cores at 1.2Ghz

I will try and put the modded bios on this evening.

So in your opinion can I try the 166 FSB hardware modification rather than trying to use setfsb first as a test, if the u7500 cpu was okay with it.

 

I think I will try 64 bit ubuntu 12.04 LTS on this hp2510p, I don't understand why the ubuntu download @recommends 32 bit though?

 

You are quite wrong with your assumings:

1.) Your Processor has indeed twice 1200mhz
the 800mhz is a result of "speedstep" not of "dualida", its lowering the mhz per core if in ilde! Both cores in this generation always share same mhz! [they must not differ!]

2.) Dual-ida overclocks one of those two cores, whilst the second is idleing!

3.) i would first try setfsb, and if it runs, bend the needed pins in the debugconnector! (this should solve frozen pll!)

4.) mine is stopping at 163mhz fsb! more is crashing!
so 166 fsb is rather critical mod, that works with some and damages others cpu!


hope this helps you a bit =)

 

I overclocked two u7600 2510P's both of which could do 166Mhz but required the RAM 266Mhz SPDTable entry to be 5-4-4-12 (CAS=5). The first one could run 9x166 (1.5Ghz), but dual-IDA maxxed at 10x163 (1.63Ghz). So it just needed a small downclock using setFSB or just not run dualIDA. Benefit there was I could boot Linux at 1.5Ghz (9x166) without any software to do the overclocking.

The second 2510P could run dualIDA (10x166) so the 166Mhz_bclk PLL pinmod was all that was required. With further software overclocking I found it's max stable overclock was 1730 (10x173) but didn't bother. 1.66Ghz was all the boost that I needed. Can really feel the performance improvement.

For the U7500 example I gave earlier it would make sense to do the 200Mhz_bclk mod, then use setfsb/setPLL to overclock up to the point of instability. I was able to get a U7600 to run at 1.44Ghz that way (6x240). Otherwise I found 178Mhz was a critical point where the X3100 graphics started to glitch when running the stock PLL which equates to 1.42Ghz with dualIDA on a U7500. So the 200Mhz_bclk mod can get more I/O and slightly faster CPU performance for that CPU.

Given the overclocking limits found with a U7600 are b/w 1.63-1.73Ghz, a U7700 might be a worse option for the 166Mhz_bclk mod as it would bootup at 1.66Ghz. So it might need a voltmod on the voltage regulator to give that tiny bit of extra stability to make it to 1.66Ghz (10x166).

So we can see that U7600 gives the most flexible overclocking without any voltmods. Thankfully it was the most popular CPU the 2510P was equipped with.

 

To show more diversities, my unit is capable only 1.5 Ghz.

Nando, you have written this some time ago, but I still don't understand: how can the 2530p provide better battery life if its CPU operates on much higher frequencies? Or other system components are more power efficient?

On the other hand, I am a bit disappointed with the battery life of the 2510p. I read everywhere 7-12 hours of battery life (for original systems), but I get only 4-5 hours out of a 6600 mAh, 9 cell battery. Even if everything is switched off and the brightness is on the lowest level, I can't press more juices out of the battery. It is an Ubuntu system, but I have doubts if a Windows XP or Windows 7 would double the runtime on battery. Do you any thoughts on this issue?

 

Your 6600mAh battery must be aftermarket. That works out to be around 73Whr. HP's original 2510P 9-cell was 83Whr (+14%) and can even get a 2540P 93Whr (+27%).

I can get a 2530P to idle at 5.2W with a 1.8" HDD. It can do that because it has SuperLFM mode (cuts CPU/northbridge frequency by half). Can also enable SATA link power management mode which cuts power way down. In addition, the 2530P uses a more efficient 45nm CPU. A 2560P is more efficient yet again. A full power 2540P went backwards with power efficiency.. I never tested the LV version so not sure how it goes.

I found that Windows runs more efficiently than Linux. The lowest I could get a 2510P to idle was 5.8W with a super low power EWS720-based SSD. A Runcore would kick that up to 6.4W or so and the wifi would need to be periodically reset or it would kick power usage up (deadlock driver code?). There is the lesswatts.org site to help you maximize C-states in Linux to extend battery life.

If you can afford to I'd suggest upgrade to a 2530P. it is certainly worth the small stretch in $$ to get one of the best portables at a bargain price that has an unwhitelisted modded bios available. No other newer 12" HP Elitebooks have that and all are fatter/heavier/cost more and have worse keyboards. I say that after testing a 2540P, 2560P, Folio 13. You can even reuse the 2510P's RAM, keyboard and battery in a 2530P. If a 2510P had a second RAM slot then I'd make a concerted effort to do a SATA retrofit and perhaps BGA solder a Penryn CPU onto it.

HP's latest 2170P goes back to 2510P/2530P dimensions but it is still a inferior chassis - no expresscard slot, 16:9 LCD, no optical drive, uses a 48Whr 6-cell (2530P has a 62/93Whr 6/9-cell option), ULV CPU. Some may not like the chiclet keyboard either.

If looking at Ivy bridge I'd suggest give HP a miss and get a Lenovo X230. HP are now 2-gens behind Lenovo leading the way with some innovative tech. Eg: a X230 gets a backlit keyboard, full power CPU, 6/9-cell option, IPS LCD with great viewing angles, small/light chassis similar to a 2510P/2170P, has a mSATA slot so can have a SSD+HDD, etc. Only thing I'm not sure of is Lenovo support. I know HP support is the best in the industry.

Other bargain in the mix.. a 2560P

A HP 2560P's cons against a X220 (heavier, thicker) work in it's favor in the s/h market. Considering it has a socketted CPU it gives a lot more flexibility for upgrade. It has a 6/9-cell option, full power CPU, expresscard slot, optical drive. It's very easy to service yourself and built tough.

We've also seen pics showing a 2570P looks identical to a 2560P so it is highly likely a a systemboard swap could give you Ivy Bridge CPU support. I've also posted details in the 2560P owner's thread of what may be a recipe to get Ivy Bridge CPU support in a 2560P systemboard [to be tested]. Means a 2560P unit is a high bang-per-buck unit in the s/h market which will probably offer a low cost upgrade path one way or another to Ivy Bridge spec 2570P without shelling out for one.

 

Nando, thanks for the reply!

Now I have a much better understanding about 2530p's battery life. I think I will upgrade to 2530p's motherboard about two years later or when my 2510p motherboard dies.

If I will need to switch to Core i3/i5/i7 then...I don't know. Does anybody know any ultraportable with Core i3/i5/i7 and trackpoint, but without touchpad??? (No, disabling the touchpad is not acceptable. )

 

A 2530P base enclosure differs to a 2510P, so a systemboard swap is dubious. At the very least all the back doors wouldn't match up and the optical drive won't be able to be connected (PATA vs SATA), nor will you have the 1.8" drive. Getting all those parts separately would be hideously expensive. I'd recommend sell the 2510P and get a 2530P instead.

Only i-core ultraportable I know without a touchpad is *some* X201 units. I wouldn't recommend it though. The 1st gen full power i-cores have worse battery life than undervolted Core2Duos. That's from comparing comparable activities on a 2530P+Dell E4300 against a Dell E4310+Lenovo X201.

A 2nd-gen i-core bests a Core2DUO/i-core in battery life so would be worth keeping tabs on prices of a 12.5" Samsung Series-4, Lenovo X220 and HP 2560P. Unfortunately Dell's E6220 gets no touchstyk.

I too use the touchstyk exclusively and just disable the touchpad or pull the lead b/w the touchpad and systemboard.

So HP do not have a current system that matches a 2510P chassis in size, so a 2530P or Lenovo X200 would be the next tier system updates. A X200 doesn't have a touchpad and uses cheaper DDR3 RAM.

 

Yes, I know, but the main dimensions are the same (?). At least, I know the 2510p<->2530p keyboards are compatible. I use an nc2400 keyboard in my 2510p, I assume, it will work in 2530p as well. And earlier I asked in PM and you pointed out that the LCD is compatible between 2510p<->2530p.

I will get the bottom part of the base covers and fit with my nc2400 palmrest. Now it is pretty expensive now to buy separately, but two years later... Most likely, my main problems with this mod will be the different screw positions.

Thanks! You are right. It seems that will be my ultimate laptop until the grave. I have touchpadless palmrest preference over everything else.

 

Hello

I've got this nice 2510p with a dead fan. Temperature can run hot (I've put the 9cell battery on in the hope that better ventilation under the laptop will help it cool down a little).

I've tried RMclock and ThrottleStop to try to undervolt and thus lower temperature a little but I can't seem to be able to lower the VID under 0.8500V (I've also tried to lower max voltage from 0.8750 to 0.8500 in RMclock but that doesn't seem to be effective according to the RMclock monitor either) ...

So I was wondering if there is an easy (software) way to undervolt the 2510p ?

Thanks all for any help !
Pierro78

 

The Throttlestop lowest voltage is the minimum as set by the CPU. Only way you can go lower is to trick the voltage regulator to output a lower voltage when it's given a valid VID (eg: 0.75V instead of 0.85V). See hw_undervolt 2510P.

Now to have any hope of running a fanless setup set the CPU multiplier to the lowest x6 multiplier and lowest 0.85V voltage and test temperatures under load.

Throttlestop is the easiest software to undervolt the 2510P with.

 

Thanks nando4 !
Do you know what happens if the CPU temperature goes too high ?
Can it damage the laptop/CPU ?
Thanks again !!!