*HP 2510p Owners Lounge*

If I go replacement HDD I need the following spec right?:

PATA
ZIF
HDD
Preferably Toshiba

So would this not work for 120GB? Toshiba 120 GB,Internal,4200 RPM,1.8 MK1231GAL Hard Drive | eBay

Can anyone tell me the origional HDD spec or number for the 80GB, 120GB HP 2510p?

 

Code:

80GB*  - MK8009GAL (disk WEI=3.9) 
80GB^  - MK8025GAL (disk WEI=4.4)
120GB* - MK1214GAH (disk WEI=4.0) 
240GB  - MK2431GAH (disk WEI=4.6)

* = provided in factory delivered 2510P units.
^ = provided by HP as a replacement part. 

 

Thanks Nando, found this one on ebay:

1.8" Toshiba 120GB MK1214GAH ZIF Dirver For MK8010GAH IPOD VIDEO MACBOOK air1 4040528352393 | eBay

My only consern is interface, I don't see PATA? Sorry for all the stupid questions..

According to the ebay seller this 100GB one works:

100GB 1.8" TOSHIBA CE ZIF MK1011GAH FOR DELL Latitude XT D420 D430 HARD DRIVE | eBay

All I worry about is the "CE" part?

 

I checked my current HDD now, its a Toshiba MK8009GAH!! so no PATA?

I'm being silly paying $110 for 120GB for:
1.8" Toshiba 120GB MK1214GAH ZIF Dirver For MK8010GAH IPOD VIDEO MACBOOK air1 4040528352393 | eBay

When I can get 240GB for $68:
UPGRADE MK3008GAL MK6008GAH MK8010GAH TO 240GB MK2431GAH For IPOD VIDEO 5TH HDD | eBay

The only thing is the 120Gb is a factory fitted item and may have less issues or bugs... I need to stick to building roads and not building notepads!! LOL

 

Hi to all on the forum.

THought I should share my experience with the Mach Extreme MX-Nano SSD, and reach out for some help.

The short story - I have now had 3 of these drives (120GB versions) in my 2510p in the last 12 months, and all 3 have failed. Based on my experience, I couldn't recommend them to anyone.

In more detail: 1st drive failed after 4 weeks (BSOD as far as I remember). The replacement drive lasted about 10 months (and to be fair, worked faultlessly in that time)until about a month ago when it too failed - on attempting to boot I received an error that no system disk could be found, and the drive would not respond in a caddy either. The replacement for that drive has now just failed on me after a couple of weeks.

This time, I went to put the 2510p into sleep mode, and came back to find it at a boot screen, again saying no system disk found. As before, I removed and reseated the SSD - no change. It's definitely the drive at fault - I have my original tosh HDD back in the 2510p as I write this, and its working fine (albeit slowly).

And like last time, when I put the MX-Nano in a USB caddy, it doesn't work on, any PC. A USB drive (or the caddy) is detected, but with 0 bytes and no details under Properties. Attempts to access the drive result in a Win7 error: "Device cannot be accessed. The request could not be performed because of an i/o device error" Chkdsk fails to run on the drive too.

So, I assume I have my 3rd broken drive, unless anyone can suggest any other reason why it has stopped working and is giving these error messages?

I also wonder whether it's something about my 2510p that is causing these drives to fail so quickly?

 

i also had no luck with the mach extreme nano ssd in my old nc2400, same problem as above, it was recognized but had 0bytes kapacity.
since one year i am using a renice k3e 60gb in the same nc2400, works well without any problems (no not one issue yet like boot up problems, lags on startup, resume from hybernate / standby, etc.)

due to price I am currently thinking of equipping my 2510p with a kingspec 32gb ssd - of course, altough the specs in ebay-auction tell me other, i do not expect the performance like the renice ssd, but even better than the 4200rpm drive, hopefully.

 

Hi Cyber, Thanks for your comment. I'm not sure if we both had quite the same problem though. I have had the Mach extreme nano (128GB version) working and fully-functioning in my 2510p for over a year. The problem is that in that time I have got through 3 of them! So it works, but these SSD's are failing too quickly.

I'm wondering if that's because the mach extreme nano is just an unreliable SSD that is prone to premature failure, or whether the 2510p is stressing it in some way and causing it to fail early.

Whatever the answer, I'm now going to install a SATA SSD (Samsung 830) in a caddy instead.

On the subject of caddies, can anyone point me to one on ebay or elsewhere that definitely contains a Marvell bridge chip? The sellers I have contacted about this just don't know what chip is inside, so my only option is to buy one and hope I choose lucky...

 

my 64gb mach extreme nano did never work - i tought on incompatibility (caused by the inverted zif connector) and therefore returned.
the nc2400 with the renice ssd i am using every day for 3 to 10 hours ...

 

I went ahead and ordered this:
NEW TOSHIBA MK1214GAH HDD1901 120GB 4200RPM 8MB 1.8" ZIF LAPTOP HARD DRIVE 4040528352393 | eBay

Its the Factory fitted 120GB HDD and although not the cheapest I know it will work and should fix the issues and help me keep my 2510p for a while longer.

Thanks to all those that helped and gave advice, very appreciated!!

 

Hi Guys,

Can anyone point me in the direction of an online seller that has sata to pata hdd caddy for the 2510p with marvell chipset?

I've bought 2 different caddies, the newmodeus one for 2510p and this ebay one:

New Slim 9.5mm SATA 2nd HDD Hard Drive Caddy for HP Compaq MultiBay 2510p nc2400 | eBay

Both have the Sunplus SPI223A controller and I'm not having much luck with either.

I should have done much more reading of this board before I purchased!

Matt

 

hi guys,

i´d like to upgrade my 2510p with some new parts...
is it possible to add this wifi card instead the old one ?

BRAND NEW Intel 6235 6235ANHMW WIFI WLAN BT Bluetooth 4.0 Half MINI Card 6230 | eBay

so i could save the bt card ...

the kingspec 64 ssd is already purchased,

KingSpec Hi-Speed 64GB 1.8

so the last option to speed up is the ram.. do you feel the difference between 2 gb and 4 gb?

 

Do you have a zif drive fitted? apparently the caddy needs to be set as slave if a zif drive is also fitted. I have an exactly the same looking caddy, and in actual fact used two now after mutilating one to try and set it to cable select or slave in order to boot with a zif ancd caddy at the same timed. instead I am simply using the caddy sata->pata with a 7200rpm disk in it sometimes takes a long time to detect the driver for boot +30seconds. but is lightening quick and quiet once running.

I am considering a newmodus caddy so I can run a zif with SSD or CF as boot. but my eyes are failing with the little writing now, so need to draw a line between hobby and useful

 

The newmodeus caddy uses the Sunplus sata-to-pata chip, which is the least desirable (Marvell, Jmicron, Sunplus in that order). This is because it causes a 30-sec bootup hang and numerous issues with SSDs (no TRIM, maybe Win7 install fails to detect SSD).

You can set your ZIF HDD to be slave by jumpering pin1+2 and just hit F9 on startup and select the Optical Disk (sic) to boot from it.

 

hi,

I just bought a 2510p Used, he is working great apart from one issue. The left buttons from both the pointing stick area and touchpad area are not working right. Sometimes they do, sometimes not. This is also metioned in a review on this site, is there any way to fix this. I searched this forum but could not find anything.

Any help would be great, the review I speak about is here:

HP Compaq 2510p Review

 

I'm not getting the 30 sec boot hang with the ebay sunplus chip caddy or the newmodeus sunplus chip caddy (when set to master). But my 2510p has F.30 stock hp bios. Have also tried bios F.0A stock hp (no hang), F.0F modded (hang), F.10 modded (hang). I 'upgraded' to the F.30 bios in desperation knowing I would not be able to go backward afterwards btw.

I've been testing with a Hitachi 5K500.B 250Gb HDD and OCZ Vertex Plus 60Gb SSD.

Bit of a run down of issues I've come across with both these sunplus based caddies (I'm using Arch Linux so my testing / info relates to Linux, though I imagine a Windows user would be faced with similar issues);

- Vertex Plus SSD (Indilinx controller) - does not work properly in either caddy. Drive is recognized in BIOS + OS, can create partitions but formatting partitions or writing data to the drive fails, usually followed by the drive then being not detected.
- With newmodeus caddy I'm seeing DMA errors with the Hitachi HDD on bootup. If set to master or slave, transfer mode is being set at UDMA2 and testing read throughput with hdparm is very slow, i.e. under 2MB/sec. If set to cable select transfer mode will start at UDMA5, then drop down to UDMA4 and read throughput is inconsistent, starting at around 80MB/sec at first at UDMA5 and then fluctuating between around 48MB/sec to 66MB/sec when it drops down to UDMA4.
- With ebay caddy Hitachi HDD does not suffer from DMA errors and consistently transfer speed is UDMA5 and throughput tests at around 80MB/sec. This is making me wonder if the newmodeus caddy's controller boad is faulty.

I've asked a couple of ebay sellers if they know what controller chip is used in their caddy in the hope of finding a marvell based one. Here's the responses I got lol:

"Hi, sorry not sure with that. Thank you and good day."

"Hello, Matt, I am not sure what is inside, how can I find out?"

At the moment I'm trying to decide whether to take a punt and buy a different ebay caddy in the hope of getting one with a marvell chip that might work with the SSD, or modding the faceplate of my existing ebay caddy and buying a 7200rpm SATA HDD.

I realize that I'm probably throwing more money at this problem than I should (i.e. could have just bought a 2530p), but I really like the screen, keyboard, trackpad and build quality of the 2510p!

 

I'm not running the ZIF hdd no, I've removed it. I did try booting with the ZIF hdd installed and a sata hdd in the newmodeus caddy set as slave and both hdd's were recognized by bios and the system booted ok from ZIF hdd, but since I'm having UDMA transfer issues with my newmodeus caddy I've switched back to ebay one which acts as yours does.

I'm not so concerned with having both hdd's installed. I'm just after raw speed

 

So you do not have any problems with the trackpad buttons?

 

The older style caddy with the plastic black insert always used a Marvell controller. Eg: SATA 2nd HDD caddy for HP Compaq MultiBay II | eBay . Only issue with the linked one is that dealer sells the new style ones too and seems to just cut and paste the picture. Ensure you specifically ask for that older style AND it's 9.5mm tall. eg: 2nd HDD caddy sata for hp compaq 2510P nc2400 multibay | eBay sees him using the plastic insert one for the gallery pic but the main pic has the new metal style caddy. Confusing as to what would actually arrive in the mail.

In several responses I've highlighted that a 2530P is a superior tool to a 2510P in pretty much every way. A 2530P is imho the best of the whole 25x0P series. The LCD is the same or better to a 2510P. The keyboard is the same or better, or you can swap your 2510P one over if prefer the blue accents. The touchpad and palmrest on a 2510P use plastic rather than the 2530P's aluminium so the 2510P is nicer to use in cold weather and imho looks better. No swap out is possible but the fix for cold wather is to buy some half-length gloves so the palm is covered but the fingertips exposed. Works a treat. You'd appreciate the 2530P's better performance and battery life, SATA subsystem with no master/slave issues, webcam, two RAM slots, etc. A 2530P can now be had for not much more than a 2510P and is definitely worth the stretch. Consder too the 2540P's higher capacity 62Wh/93Wh 6/9 cell battery is a black color and matches perfectly the 2530P base enclosure color whereas the 2510P uses a navy blue one so is slightly mismatched in color.

Never had any problems with the trackpad buttons. Try booting a Linux CD and seeing if the problem persist in it's graphical interface. If so, then there is a hardware problem requiring a new keyboard/palmrest or reseating the cables to the systemboard. If Linux works fine then your mouse settings need to be changed. There is certainly a difference in mouse response b/w the standard Microsoft Windows driver and the specific Synaptics driver so could also try the Synpatics to see if you get a better response. I'd guestimate you have a driver issue since both the touchpad and touchstyk left mouse are affected even though they are two completely difference pieces of hardware.

 

I haven't had any issues with the trackpad buttons, they work perfectly

Nando4 that is excellent info thank you very much I think I'll have one more go at buying a caddy that matches your description and if that fails start shopping for a 2530p.

 

hanks for the reply, I will look at the posts for that and see if I can somehow jumper the port, it all looked a little too much "do it right or through it away" regarding the stripping the cable. I wasn't actually sure you could stil boot from the zif when set to slave, after reading some other posts.

thanks

 

hello, all,
some months ago i received this small lappy and have done some modifications:
- removed old toshiba hdd and zif cable, bought internal hd caddy instead - new hdd within is 250 gb WD 7400rpm
- applied quiet_fan mod
- removed bluetooth (never used, generally not needed)
- bought 2GB ram chip.
all is functional, but i have some little problems:
legally installed xp hangs every two, three bootups for nonexistent file, which is present on hd for sure; if i can force machine to reboot, bootup process continues normally. Is here some solution for it?
another problem is overheating. fan is clean, no dust, but i can feel growing temperature with power-on time period.
it also grows rapidly with hdd activity, for example code compiling or complicated sql query.
some ideas?
thanks in advance.

 

A plea for help - I really need it, please! I think I must win the prize for the slowest caddy/SATA SSD performance ever! Here's the benchmarks:



I told you it was slow, and it feels it too.

These figures are on my new Samsung 830 128GB 2.5" SSD, in an optical drive caddy bought from ebay. The caddy has a Marvell bridge chip (confirmed visually on the board). I have no drive in the HDD bay, and the BIOS (v F.05) reports the SSD as master ("Notebook Hard Drive").

I'm running Win7 x64 Pro, on a clean install from original disks. No other software installed, just the various Windows updates downloaded on install.

Something's gone horribly wrong - any ideas what, and how to fix it?

Btw, the Samsung SSD has replaced a Mach xTreme Nano 120GB 1.8" PATA SSD that I had running before, giving decent benches. The problem with that though was that I had 3 of them fail on me in 12 months, hence thought I'd try the SATA caddy route to give me more, cheaper options.

Really hoping for some help folks, before I tear my hair out. Thanks in advance!

 

The CDM result looks like the IDE controller has switched to slow UDMA-2 transfer speed. Can confirm by looking at the devices on the IDE controller in Device Manager to see what they are set to. Could then manually switch to UDMA-5 using hdparm-for-Windows 'hdparm -X udma5 /dev/sda' and see if CDM now gives better results.

Another possible solution to the degraded link would be to reset the IDE controller registery settings per quotes below.

If there is no positive result after these tests then can eliminate Windows drivers from being the problem by booting Linux and use 'hdparm -t /dev/sda' to do write performance testing and then do a 'hdparm -X udma5 /dev/sda' followed by 'hdparm -t /dev/sda' to see if it's fixed the problem.

 

Hi Nando4, thanks for taking the time to reply on my problem.

I've just checked device manager, and ATA Channel 0, which the SSD is shown as connected to, is reporting as using UDMA 5, and with DMA enabled.

Is it still worthwhile me trying your suggestions, or does this mean there is another culprit?

Oh, and I haven't run Linux before. Where do you suggest I get a Linux boot environment from? (sorry for the newb-type question; I'm pretty savvy on PC & win stuff, but never felt the inclination to dabble in Linux before...)

Thanks again for your help

 

Hmm.. it's already running at UDMA-5 so the IDE link appears OK. I'd suggest proceed as follows:

1. Test a 2.5" SATA HDD in the caddy. This is to ensure the caddy isn't faulty. If the HDD works then it's some issue bw the caddy and the Samsung SSD. If there are settings on the SSD to force SATA-I performance then try that.

2. Just to make sure the OS isn't the issue, can boot Linux and do a 'hdparm -t /dev/sda' to see write performance. Can download a Ubuntu Linux ISO and follow instructions to put it on a bootable USB stick: Create a USB stick on Windows | Ubuntu .

 

Thanks Nando. I'll try your suggestions asap. I might not be able to do it for a few days though, as I've had to swap back in my old 1.8" Tosh HDD with Vista environment from over a year ago, so that I can get on and do some 'real' work on it (the 2510p is my everyday machine).

It was so easy last time my MX-nano SSD failed - I just reinstalled my last drive image on the replacement MX-nano and I was away again in an hour or so. But this time moving to a caddy SSD has been a nightmare all round - couldn't access my drive image, so took the plunge ondoing a lean install thinking it might be slow but at least it would be straightforward, and then I find the new drive runs like a snail... Never mind, I'm sure it will all be worth it in the end!

So it might be a couple of days before I report back,

THanks again

 

Therei is a easy and quick way of testing a 2.5" HDD in caddy with your functioning 1.8" ZIF drive by doing the following:

1. Jumper the ZIF HDD to run as slave by bridging pin1+2 on the ZIF connector as described.

2. Put a 2.5" HDD in the caddy and install. It will be default to master.

3. Boot the 2510P, hit F9 to select boot device from either 'Hard Disk' (master) or 'Optical Drive' (slave). Select 'Optical Drive' to boot the ZIF drive.

4. Once in Vista/Win7, run the CDM tests on the 2.5" HDD to see if sequential read/writes are better. Even old HDDs should see at least 35MB/s reads. That can be as high as 90MB/s for new drives.

If the HDD performs well then while the ZIF HDD is slave, swap in the Samsung SSD and perform the CDM test again to see if there is any difference in performance compared to the last tests.

 

From http://forum.notebookreview.com/hp-...ompag-2510p-big-bios-problem.html#post8739483

Test 4MB 2510P BIOS image files

Here are two 2510P 4MB bios dumps I managed to get from Grains BIOS repair (UK) with accompanying info below:

2510P-F0A-dump.RAR
USEME2510P-SP55558.7z

Use HP DMIFIT 118 Utility: change DMI details, eg: model number, serial, <strike>password</strike>.

Please advise if one or both of these dumps does the trick for you. I'd like to make a tested bios image available for eeprom burning to help users who have bios issues, or who got stuck with F.30 and require the F.13 modded bios functionality (dual-IDA, no whitelist, SLIC 2.1).

 

Great, thanks!
I also asked Grains BIOS repair (UK) simultaneously and received the latter one of the two files listed above. I tested it, I could enter bios menu and boot from cd, but booting from hdd didn't work. I always got a message that the ME system needs to unconfigure something and then it rebooted. Because I didn't want the F.30 version anyway, I replaced the last 1024 kB of the dump with the data of the F.10 bios from the hp website. And big surprise: it worked ... well not perfect, the boot process takes about 30s until the windows startup even begins. And this AMT stuff does not work, but better then nothing.

I'll try it with the other file and this DMI stuff and let you know if it works. It may take a while, because this is the first time I have to deal with this bios stuff apart from just updating it with a mouse click.

 

Hi Nando4, ok, I had a go at this suggestion of yours, booting Linux from USB. When I try to run hdparm from Terminal (correct?), I get a permission denied error for /dev/sda. I then found a disk management program within Ubuntu and ran the performance test within. The read only test on the Samsung SSD gave avg 31.1Mb/s. still pretty poor, but much better than under windows. I couldn't run the read/write tests - these failed with message that a partition table was detected and write benchmarking needs the disk to be completely empty.

Does this provide any more clues as to the problem?

I can't try your other suggestion of putting a hdd inthe caddy because I don't have another 2.5 drive.

 

just as a comparison a 200X CF reads at 50Mb/s in a CF to ZIF converter and a sata 7200rpm in an e bay caddy Reads 90Mb/s.

----
nando you suggested that rather than trying to slave the ebay caddy (I have had 2 delivered and they both work but sometimes it takes 30+ seconds to find the drive) this is the version I have used. ebay link -> New Laptop Hard Drive Caddy 9.5mm IDE TO SATA for HP/ Asus / Acer | eBay was to try and slave the cf to zif adapter well my eyes are old and I broke that - so have ordered another one of the first one I bought in a pretty case because it already has a master and slave switch in built ebay link -> CF to 1.8" ZIF SSD Card CE Adapter w/ Metal Case | eBay


Thanks for you help, I expect it will take sometime to arrive from china it was a full 35 days last time I ordered the 1 I broke the connector off the first time I touched it.

Incidentally, has anyone managed to use an exprerss-card through an express-card to pcimca adapter to work with the HP2510p or any other laptops?

 

Here is what I tried today, I listed what happened:
Actions done by me are in []

BIOS dump F.0A (2510P-F0A-dump.RAR) flashed over SPI, CMOS cleared:
[Power on]
Updates keyboard controller
Reboots
HP-Logo
Normal boot process starts windows without delay
[Reboot]
HP-Logo
* (see below)

BIOS dump F.30 (USEME2510P-SP55558.7z) flashed over SPI, CMOS cleared:
[Power on]
Updates keyboard controller
Reboots
HP-Logo
* (see below)

BIOS dump, bios section replaced with F.0F (sp49694) flashed over SPI, CMOS cleared:
[Power on]
Updates keyboard controller
Reboots
HP-Logo
* (see below)

BIOS dump, bios section replaced with F.0F (sp49694) flashed over SPI, CMOS cleared; Boot from cd (only way to start windows), F.10 flashed with HPQFlash, shutdown:
or
BIOS dump, bios section replaced with F.10 (sp52914) flashed over SPI, CMOS cleared:
[Power on]
HP-Logo
Normal boot behaviour
~ 25s black screen
~ 5s black screen with blinking "_"
Windows starts
this works repeatedly


* Behaviour depending on bios settings:
1. AMT enabled:

Code:

Intel(R) Management Engine BIOS Extension v2.5.18.0000
Copyright(C) 2003-2007 Intel Corporation. All Rights Reserved.

Firmware Version Matched ....
ME System is going through the un-configuration process.
System will go through a power cycle reset upon completion

Reboots
HP-Logo
* again
2. AMT disabled:
Black screen for ~ 1 minute
Reboots
HP-Logo
* again

Conclusion:
The only solution working for me is to take one of the 4096 kB bios dumps and replace the last 1024 kB with the data of the rom file of F.10 from HP website.
However it takes about 30s until windows is starting and AMT must be disabled.

Oh, I just read somewhere that Win + Left + Right while powering on does something special. And in my case it solves the problem of the 30s black screen.


All in all i can say that some stange stuff is happening here, I don’t know if there is something wrong with the BIOS or if my laptop has a hardware failure causing these problems.

 

will the pci card work on the 2510p, if i use a whitelist bios?
and who could say something to the perfomance 2gb vs.4 gb RAM

greetings martin

 

nando, i was wondering if you can do me a favor ...
my nc2400-fan is currently controlled by software. for the 2510p I think you have modded a great silet bios (I have the fan_40pct version), >here< is a SLIC2.1 + no-whitelist bios for nc2400, can you also do there the same fan-modding as for the 2510p?

 

Hello all,
can i ask you for help?
after upgrade my lappy with brand new newmodeus sata caddy and
sata hdd (WD, 5400rpm, sata) ive got a strange issue:
installed windows xp failed to boot every second, third time, so i wiped it out.
in ubuntu lucid lynx everything goes fine, except from this: from time to time grub fails with error "soft resetting link, device RDY ERR".
i guess that can be a problem between hdd and caddy (maybe chip problems?).
anyway, it can start up properly (it takes a couple of seconds longer than usual).
that error goes away when grub is set with noacpi=1, dma=0, but system is noticeably slower.
any suggestions?
thanks in advance.

 

for those who are struggling to buy a zif SSD:
here is a comparison between a 64GB Renice K3E and a 32GB Kingspec
The Renice was in a 2510p, the Kingspec in a nc2400, the Hardware should not make difference. The comparison is also not 100% fair because the 64GB Kingspec is told to be a bit faster as the 32GB version.
I cannot feel big differences between both systems, they are both great - and I am happy that I gave the Kingspec a try, für 55$ is this a real great value compared to 130$ of the Renice.

 

nando help me please?!

i have my new CF to ZIF adapter with a slave and master switch with ubunutu installed, i am using this now to type this and it shows as "optical drive" in the boot menu.

when i had my old sata->pata caddy in the drive bay, it was booting from that even when i selected optical and after a cycle of reboot and display of grub. i assumed this was because it was finding a boot device on master (the caddy). so i let the machine boot until the ubuntu logo and then pushed the caddy in and it recognised the 160gb disk and benchmarked at 90MB/s. i copied all the imoirtant data off the disk and formatted it in the hope that it would use the cf boot from the zif, but now all it does if they are both connected is loop around from grub to reboot when selecting the optical drive and obviously nothing if i select notebook harddrive.

is there a way in grub or a type of hd formatting to work with the zif as slave but also OS?

any help would be very appreciated.

thanks

stuart

 

Is this the answer? can I simply tell the grub boot parameters to use hd1 instad of hd0?

--------------------------------------------
Phoenix Bios quirk - optical bay hdd detected as primary boot HDD0 instead of optical drive

I noticed this on the DV2000 I tested the sata-to-pata caddy on. The primary bay is sata too. Setting the sata-to-pata caddy to master/slave will not solve the problem.

On the DV2000, the Phoenix BIOS has a bootup menu/option to boot from the HDD or Optical drive. Only problem is it detects the optical caddy HDD as HDD0: (optical drive HDD) and HDD1: (primary drive HDD), and boots from the HDD0. There is no bios option to direct bootup from HDD1.

This can be corrected by directing bootup to the the primary bay HDD from the optical bay HDD using:

- grub bootloader with "map (hd0) (hd1);map (hd1) (hd0)" remapping
- configure boot.ini/BCD entries on the optical bay's HDD. EasyBCD makes it much easy to setup Vista/Win7's BCD.


-----------------------------

 

sadly I cannot get this to work.

to recap
I have a CF in the ZIF running as slave this appears as optical drive in teh boot menu
I have a sata-pata caddy which appears as notebook hard disk (this disk is not formatted)

with both connected it loops around without booting past the grub menu.

I have cloned the standard ubuntu grub menu entry and tried to add


set root= (hd0,1)
drivemap -s hd1 hd0

but this still only boots with the caddy disconnected.

I think I need to slave the caddy, is anyone running the caddy as master and the run a ssd/cf etc in the zif drive as slave, with the boot drive as the zif?

thanks

Stuart

 

Still no luck with the zif as slave and boot with a caddy as master, I have tried every which way And decided instead to save up a few quid and buy a newmodus.

Instead I have added some so called ubuntu 12.04 performance settings from this site Ubuntu 12.04 - HP 2510p laptop (wifi, fingerprint, performance & power management)

Additionally, I have created a hopefully foolproof script to take advantage of nandos dual-ist modded_bios see below, it has a slight hack being that it loops around trying to activate the flag due to an inconsistency in when the computer takes any notice of it.

When my computer boots the CPU_Blowfish test on system profiler and benchmark returns 15 secs+

After the script the same test will run at 13.5 secs.

Because it is set back to ondemand after the lock I hope that the computer have any heat issues.

You do need to have msr tools installed and nandos modded_bios

There are obviously improvements, that could be made this has to be run in a terminal after "sudo -s"

I am trying to get it to work at startup from rc.local but no joy at the moment.


----------------------------
without debug echo

#!/bin/bash
modprobe msr
rdmsr -p0 0x1a0
wrmsr 0x1a0 0x5364852489
rdmsr -p0 0x1a0
echo performance > /sys/devices/system/cpu/cpu0/cpufreq/scaling_governor
echo performance > /sys/devices/system/cpu/cpu1/cpufreq/scaling_governor
wrmsr 0x199 -p0 0xa10
wrmsr 0x199 -p1 0xa10
wrmsr 0x1a0 0x1364852489
COUNT=25
# bash while loop
while [ $COUNT -gt 0 ]; do
let COUNT=COUNT-1
wrmsr 0x1a0 0x1364852489
wrmsr 0x1a0 0x1364842489
a=`rdmsr -p0 0x198`
b=`rdmsr -p1 0x198`
ok="60b091006000a10"
if [ "$a" == "$ok" ]; then
COUNT=-1
fi
done
echo ondemand > /sys/devices/system/cpu/cpu0/cpufreq/scaling_governor
echo ondemand > /sys/devices/system/cpu/cpu1/cpufreq/scaling_governor

------------------------------
with debug echo

#!/bin/bash
echo `date +"%F--%k-%M-%S"`
echo oc MP
modprobe msr
echo check current msr 0x198
rdmsr -p0 0x1a0
echo set basic msr same re-execute
wrmsr 0x1a0 0x5364852489
rdmsr -p0 0x1a0
echo oc set performance
echo performance > /sys/devices/system/cpu/cpu0/cpufreq/scaling_governor
echo performance > /sys/devices/system/cpu/cpu1/cpufreq/scaling_governor
echo oc set extra multiplier
wrmsr 0x199 -p0 0xa10
wrmsr 0x199 -p1 0xa10
rdmsr -p0 0x199
rdmsr -p1 0x199
echo oc set eist toggle
wrmsr 0x1a0 0x1364852489
COUNT=25
echo 60b091006000a10
# bash while loop
while [ $COUNT -gt 0 ]; do
echo Value of count is: $COUNT
let COUNT=COUNT-1
wrmsr 0x1a0 0x1364852489
wrmsr 0x1a0 0x1364842489
a=`rdmsr -p0 0x198`
b=`rdmsr -p1 0x198`
echo $a
echo $b
ok="60b091006000a10"
if [ "$a" == "$ok" ]; then
COUNT=-1
fi

done

echo exit whe both core are 60b091006000a10
echo oc set on demand
echo ondemand > /sys/devices/system/cpu/cpu0/cpufreq/scaling_governor
echo ondemand > /sys/devices/system/cpu/cpu1/cpufreq/scaling_governor
echo oc check msr
rdmsr -p0 0x198
rdmsr -p1 0x198
rdmsr 0x1a0
echo oc done

 

I have a query regarding stopping the bluetooth? in either the bios or in the ubuntu applet, as soon as it is disabled the blue sireless ligt is flashing as if a fault is occuring.

Does anyone know how to switch off the bluetooth without have the light flashing and still the wireless networking is working.


Thanks for any help

 

The newmodeus caddy works fine with a HDD. I wouldn't suggest getting it if you want to run the caddy with a sata SSD since it uses the problematic Sunplus sata-to-pata bridge. If you have a Toshiba ZIF HDD then simply bridging pin1+2 on the ZIF connector with a tiny wire will set it to run as slave. The ebay caddy with the Marvell sata-to-pata bridge chip was functional the best unit I used. If you have that one then it's possible to set it as slave by soldering a small wire onto it. See links off first page for details of setting the ebay caddy and Toshiba HDD as slave.

Good work with the dual-IDA Linux script.

I always had the wifi LED flashing when running Linux. It's Linux' way of showing that comms are happening. There's probably some kernel compile switch setting somewhere to stop it, or you could consider hacking the wifi driver.

 

I am not clever enough to edit driver files, my blue light on both the case front and button bar is always solid unless either the bluetooth is off. then it flashes constantly.

I have a CF to ZIF converter with a slave or master switch on and it shows as optical drive in the boot menu, but if the caddy is inserted during the boot sequence the machine simply reboots I have tried various different settings in grub2, and reinstalled ubuntu on the CF using the caddy as the boot partition, tried swapping the drive codes around eg hd1 to hd2, I have also tried installing a formatted hard disk in the caddy with the operating system on the ZIF(CF) as soon as they are both installed the system loops rebooting and then shows a grub menu which then simply reboots on selection.
Although, both the devices are displayed correctly in the multi boot menu.

The newmodus caddy is quite expensive > 30 GBP I only spent that much on the hard disk, It is strange that none of these super cheap chinese caddies support slave/master.


Additionally, this same benchmarking software returns a much faster speed when booted as using the ZIF with a CF installed, I presume this is simply the spin up time difference.

 

help with grub2 1.97 setfsb.mod

I have managed to compile the setfsb.mod grub (after going through a few hoops to get stubs.h and perdef) and copied out the setfsb.mod into the /boot/grub folder.

I reboot and get into grub prompt but insmod setfsb.mod initially failed with file not found, but insmod (hd0,1)/boot/grub/setfsb.mod found the file but errored with incompatible licence. my grub version is 1.99 this is how it was delivered with ubuntu 64bit, I did have to download some 32 bit libraries or is the problem with the setfsb.mod being compiled with the 1.97 grub version?

Is this project still alive and kicking, or is there another software setfsb solution for ubuntu?

Thanks

 

Last time I tried it I had problems with setfsb running on 64-bit Ubuntu. Still, if the grub2 module doesn't work for you then can try the userspace binary. See http://forum.notebookreview.com/lin...-softfsb-ocing-4-linux-dev-3.html#post5569693 .

Before doing software overclocking be aware of :

1. You need to jumper pin1+2 in the debug port to prevent the PLL freezing after a resume from standby/hiberate.

2. A warm reboot partially resets the PLL where it sets the pci/pci-e bus to operate at 40/120Mhz. The wifi card does not like to operate at that speed so often will not register on the pci-e bus then. You'd need to cold boot to get the PLL back to stock 33/100Mhz where wifi works fine.

The above hiccups do not occur if you simply do a hardware mod to overclock the PLL from 133Mhz to 166Mhz ( 166Mhz_bclk). Every single U7600 2510P I've worked with could operate at 166Mhz without any problems. A U7700 has an extra multiplier with the last one I tested being able to only go up to 160Mhz. Please also flash your RAM module's 266Mhz SPDTable entry to be CAS=5 (5-4-4-12) using SPDTool or Thaiphoon Burner to ensure RAM is stable if doing any software or hardware overclocking from 133 to 166Mhz (or more).

 

So far I have broken a ZIF to CF adapters zif connector off, broken an ebay caddy try to force it to be a slave and broken a zif to CF adapter trying to join pin 1 and 2 together I am not going to take a soldering iron to a chip to make it 166mhz, especially as I have just ordered a newmodus caddy to jumper to slave and finally get both the zif and caddy working at the same time. then it will be a nice and tidy and finished notebook.

But I am still interested in the softfsb c code you had supplied in that thread but it is no longer available, only a picture of a kitten resides in its place now.

Quote by your good self in that thread:

"Got my 2510P's ics9lprs355 PLL overclocked in Linux in the simplest possible way. lfsb-ics9lprs355.tgz contains ics9lprs355.c, pll.h and a x86 binary, lfsb which adds this PLL support. Yay! No need to boot into Windows, run setfsb, then warm boot into Linux. I used lfsb's ics94215.c and then viewed the setfsb's Diagnosis window to create a ics9lprs355.c . I can confirm the overclock works:"

Do you still have this program?

 

Hi Mike60, first of all let me say that you have done a great job here. Following your success i ordered a web cam. I happened to have a spare USB cable. So i cut it from one side and attached to my web-cam. I plugged in the USB cable and the device is recognized as imaging device and is working fantastic (with skype, YouTube upload etc). However, when i solder it on the motherboard it comes as unknown device. Can you guide me where i have to connect the cables on the motherboard i.e D+, D-, 5V, SHGND. thanks

 

Checked my repository and it seems lfsb-ics9lprs355.tgz is one that got away. Nevermind, you can use lfsb-ics9lprs397.tgz (2530P PLL), change all references to ics9lprs397 to be ics9lprs355, including renaming ics9lprs397.c to ics9lprs355.c. and then change ics9lprs355.c's PLL data to match the look up table in ics9lprs355bklf.lut. Once done and working, please upload so I can keep a copy in the repository.

I consider a U7600 2510P complete once the 166Mhz_bclk mod is done. Soldering is necessary to do that. After that process there is no need to mess with software overclocking and the system will standby/resume plus warm reboot without any issues. Then it will boot up at 1.5Ghz and setting dual-IDA in Windows using Throttlestop or Linux using your scrupt will see it running at 1.66Ghz.

 

I will check the soldering idea again I just dont want to break anything, it seems that I am breaking something each time I try? even if it is simply a drop between two pins?

If I manage the program changes I will send it back.

thanks

Stuart

 

I am doing something a bit wrong here? every time I try and run in terminal "lfsb -y ic9lprs355" it comes up with command not found?!

This is getting me down just a tiny bit, there is something simple missing.

I changed all of the files to the correct pll ending in 355 ended up installing lfsb 0.4.1 and tried that still no joy. the make for the full lfsb app also comes up with an "error 2"

I didn notice at the beginning of the softfsb thread that someone said they needed to switch a register in grub to allow manipulation of the ic2 registers.

Incidentally I ran some "32 bit lib utils" yesterday which may help with the grub version not working on 64bit ubuntu.